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These large, thick tortillas are called “tlayudas” and they’re a Oaxaca specialty that you’re unlikely to find elsewhere in the country. They’re prepared by spreading pork fat and bean paste on the tortilla, then the Oaxaca string cheese called quesillo is added in, plus some shredded lettuce or cabbage to add a little crunch. It’s folded over and toasted on a grill until it’s crispy and the cheese inside melts, and served with your choice of meat. If you want yours without the pork fat, just ask for it “sin aciento.” Tlayudas are served in many places in Oaxaca. In restaurants they’re usually served open-faced, which is perhaps more attractive, but when you have it folded over like this, the cheese melts more and combined with the crisp tortilla, it’s really delicious. Tlayudas Libres opens at 9 pm nightly and closes at 3 or 4 am. They have grills set up on the street so you can watch how they’re prepared. This is a popular late-night stop after an evening of partying.

A 75-minute drive south of downtown Mendoza lies the province’s burgeoning wine destination—the Uco Valley. Composed of three subregions—Tupungato, Tunuyan, and San Carlos—the Uco Valley is a 45-mile long strip of land sitting 3,000–5,000 feet above sea level at the foot of the Andes mountain range. The terroir of the Uco Valley is conducive to growing quality wine grapes, especially Mendoza’s flagship malbec grape, as well as merlot, cabernet sauvignon, torrontes, and chardonnay. Some of the world’s most significant winemakers have been lured to Uco Valley’s fertile soil. Over the past ten years, grape production has doubled in the Uco Valley thanks to international investment. State-of-the-art wineries, gourmet restaurants, luxury boutique hotels, and golf courses are popping up more frequently in the region as the wine tourism industry continues to grow. A visit to Mendoza would not be complete without a visit to several of Uco Valley’s distinctive wineries for wine tasting, dining, and soaking up the stunning landscape. Uncorking Argentina, Trout & Wine & Ampora Wine Tours can create personalized itineraries of Uco Valley’s top experiences.

American entrepreneur Michael Evans and Argentine winemaker Pablo Gimenez Riili joined forces to create an unparalleled viticultural paradise for wine lovers from around the world. Set on 1,500 pristine acres in the heart of the Uco Valley, the Vines Resort & Spa is a haven of laid-back luxury with a robust offering of culinary and wellness activities, winemaking endeavors, and outdoor adventures. Every aspect of the hotel is designed to share Mendoza’s natural beauty, superior wines, and Argentina’s warm culture through a tailored guest experience provided by the resort’s “Gauchos”—personal concierges and tour guides who curate one-of-a-kind itineraries for visitors.

The resort’s 22 spacious villas have ample indoor/outdoor living space, with wood-burning fireplaces, open-air fire pits, plunge pools, hot tubs, and private rooftop terraces with 360-degree views. Siete Fuegos, the resort’s signature restaurant, showcases open-flame grilling techniques mastered by Argentina’s acclaimed chef Francis Mallmann. The fitness center and yoga studio look out to the Andes, while three miles of running trails weave through the property’s vineyards. There’s never a dull moment at the Vines, with horseback riding, hiking, biking, cooking lessons, and winetasting at your fingertips—unless lounging is your preferred activity, in which case a cabana next to the 1,000-square-foot infinity pool will be calling your name.

James Turrell is one of American’s most stunning artists and his work has found a home in the middle of nowhere in the province of Salta, Argentina. Bodega Colome crushes some of the finest torrontes and malbec wine, thanks to vintner Donald Hess, who happens to also be a celebrated art collector. He created an on-site museum dedicated to Turrell’s work that plays with your sense of space, with color and light. The museum can be visited by appointment only and is worth the insane dirt road you must travel three hours from Cafayete to get there. You’ll deserve the glass of vino tinto when you arrive, then be prepared for some of the most mind-bending art you’ll ever experience.

We were lost. My driver had picked me up from Hotel Alvear in Buenos Aires two hours ago, maybe more. It was hot in the car; the A/C had only two settings “off or ice blast.” I opted for a rolled-down window. We were on a jutted, dusty road that went on for several miles with no signage. He pulled the car over and made a call to Buenos Aires for clarification. After a rudimentary exchange with me in Spanish we continued slowly. Teens in a car behind us, not happy with our progress, tooted and gave us the universal sign of displeasure as they passed. My driver found the estancia La Bamba de Areco gates and after announcing ourselves at the intercom, were told to wait. In a few minutes, what a sight coming at us through the allée of plane trees; a gaucho galloping full speed on a beautiful mount. Still astride, she dispatched the gate and motioned for us to follow by car as she loped ahead. It was to be an amazing day. I was told that the owners, a French couple (a Parisian designer and an owner of an English Polo Team) purchased the crumbling estate five years ago carefully restoring and re-imagining the estancia. A series of superbly decorated rooms and suites offers entre to this privileged Argentine lifestyle to visitors. Love for polo or riding is optimal, not required. But a love for peaceful luxury, inspiring location, attentive staff, appreciation of the opportunity to be a part of a disappearing culture, and love of fabulous wines and food is a must here.

One of the first stops outside of Cusco was on the Anta plain at 12,375 ft. The 16th century ruin of Chinchero is rumored to be the birthplace of the rainbow. I would be hard pressed to argue those refractions of light could have a more beautiful beginning. A wonderful outdoor market overlooks the ruins and there are many weaving cooperatives to explore in the village. Locals work hard to preserve cultural customs speaking Quechua and wearing colorful traditional dress. By supporting the talented women and buying local you assist in making their lives more self sufficient through their craft. If you’re looking for colorful blankets, I thought this market had one of the best selections.

Huayna Picchu is the landmark peak at Machu Picchu from which the classic, shot-from-above postcard photos are typically taken. While the views are spectacular, of course, the trail is not easy, studded with precarious, sometimes uneven stone steps, and often directly flanked by sheer drop-offs (thus probably out of the question for anyone with a fear of heights). While most hike to the top and back, you can also go up and around to the other side, with a visit to the Temple of the Moon/Great Cavern along the way. Admittance to Huayna Picchu is limited and sells out two or three months in advance; pay for your entrance as part of your Machu Picchu admission.

The quiet street known as Avenida Nader, where several pioneers lived during the city’s 1970s genesis, ranks among the most “historic” neighborhoods in this all-but-brand-new city. With City Hall’s rear garden to the west and an upscale neighborhood of winding streets to the east, the avenue has transformed in recent years, going from quaint and residential to an eclectic mix of hipster bars, lantern-lit outdoor restaurants, and hidden street art. The strip embraces its historic roots while also providing a bit of vie de bohème you might not expect at a beach resort.

Light and color are two words that best describe Casa de Las Bugambilias, or House of the Bougainvillea, a bed-and-breakfast inn in Oaxaca’s Centro neighborhood. Every bit of the house, inside and out, is vibrant, thanks to vividly-hued textiles, locally-made artwork and crafts, and, of course, bougainvillea. Guests are treated to a two-course breakfast each morning, with most fruits and vegetables coming from local producers who farm organically and value the fair-trade model. Service is exceptional, as is the location, convenient to some of Oaxaca’s most iconic sights, including the Santo Domingo Church.

Oaxaca has no shortage of gorgeous colonial-era buildings; in fact, that’s what draws many visitors to this stunningly beautiful Mexican city. But Casa de Siete Balcones, a seven-room boutique hotel, is particularly special, with unusually spacious rooms and, as its name suggests, seven balconies (yes, one for each room). The building itself dates to the 18^th century. The structure, along with the rooms’ heavy wood furniture and the cobbled street just outside the door, has the effect of transporting guests to another era. Other design details that will appeal to visitors with nostalgia for an earlier century include Spanish tile floors, and a courtyard filled with plants and flowers; the Spanish-style patio also features a bubbling fountain. Rooms are filled with natural light, and service is friendly and attentive.

Taste your way around the Caribbean Island—from chocolate and coffee to ice cream and roasted pork—on this self-guided road trip.

In this week’s episode of Unpacked by AFAR, we talk with conservationist Kris Tompkins.