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Getting to Portofino from Genoa is quite easy. Take the train from Genoa’s Brignole Station to Santa Margherita Ligure, and then catch the 82 bus to Portofino (a 12-minute trip around the bay). While I’m not a huge bus person, this is one of the most gorgeous bus rides I’ve ever experienced. A tiny fishing village with a very posh clientele, Portofino is a wonderful day trip—perfect for walking around, shopping at high-end boutiques, and enjoying an apertivo dockside before heading back to town. Yet Portofino is also covered with trekking trails, so another option is to wear walking gear and come for the breathtaking hikes!

Hidden down the Vico Superiore del Ferro, this tiny shop is a secret gem. While most gelaterias keep their colorful products out in plain view, luring children in from the street with their mounds of chocolate and mango and black cherry, Gelateria Profumo prefers to hide theirs in shiny frozen silver canisters. And yet tucked inside those containers are some of the most delicious, interesting flavors in town - and hands down, the creamiest.

While you can never go wrong with a tried and true cone of pistacchio e nocciola (pistachio and hazelnut) gelato, opt instead for one (or two or six) of the small ‘bicchierini’ here at Gelateria Excelsa for a few bites of different delicious flavors! The chocolate are exceptional - as are any of the ones with ‘frutti di bosco’ (red fruits like strawberry, cherry, and plum).

If you are coming to Genoa to find a luxurious seaside escape, get out of the urban city and make sure you stay at least one night at the Grand Hotel Miramare in Santa Margherita Ligure (roughly 45 minutes from Genoa by train). With a full service spa, massive saltwater pool, and breathtaking ocean views, this hotel makes a perfect base to explore the entirety of the Italian Riviera (including neighboring Portofino, the tiny villages of Cinque Terre, and the hidden beaches that dot the coastline). With these sea views, it is definitely worth splurging on an oceanfront room. (Unfortunately, this hotel is closed January through March, so you may need to plan accordingly.)

Camogli is a quick 30-minute train ride out of Genoa, making it easy for an evening out for cocktails and dinner. Leave from Brignole Station, and arrive in Camogli by 6:30pm so that you can get a seaside table at Bar Auriga for a perfect Aperol Spritz as the sun sets and the waves crash in.

Stop by Soli DOC cafe for an evening Spritz in the courtyard of the Doge’s Palace. Serving a full menu of wine (including the delicious Italian sparkling wine, Prosecco), the cafe also has quite an extensive beer and cocktails list. With delicious snacks brought table-side, sit outside to watch the sunset cast its golden hue over the ancient city.

Although a chain (we now have a few Grom’s in New York City as well), Grom makes an incredible gelato, and is committed to creating a locally sourced, sustainable, high-quality product. The nut varieties are exceptionally good—especially the pistachio and hazelnut ones. They also serve a tasty ‘affogato’ (meaning ‘drowned’ in italian)—a shot of dark espresso poured over the gelato of your choice!

Board a boat in the old harbor of Porto Antico and spend the day in the Italian sunshine observing the natural habitat of the International Cetacean Sanctuary. In four hours, and with the help of the onboard marine biologist, you are likely to spot families of dolphins, larger whales, and even migrating sea turtles.

Take your morning coffee in the sunshine, shaded by the the Palazzo Ducale. With quite a few tables, Douce does a busy morning cappuccino/focaccia business, so you can also come later in the afternoon (when it’s slightly warmer) to make sure you get an alfresco seat. Just make sure you don’t order a cappuccino after 10am—the Genovese are likely to laugh at you. It’s espresso or nothing at that point!

Pop by the Strada Nuova in the early morning for a cappuccino in the sunshine between the beautiful palaces. With a few coffee bars to choose from, you can always find a small table outside to enjoy the passersby as they head to open their shops and catch their buses. (Personally, I love the M cafe and bar inside the Palazzo Rosso, but there are plenty to choose from!)

While most of the shops located under the arcades of Via XX Settembre are chains (like Zara, H&M, etc), you can find a few local boutique gems as well - and the covered area makes a perfect afternoon for shopping out of the rain! (You can also find quite a few coffee shops and focaccerias under these arches too, so it’s easy to make a full afternoon here.)

Set down a small alley just a few meters from Piazza San Lorenzo, the art gallery Il Vicolo is a lovely spot to browse, and purchase, contemporary art in the ancient city. One of the oldest galleries in town, Il Vicolo routinely changes their artistic focus - thus one can come back often for pieces and exhibits from new, well-followed, and even young emerging artists.

While Enrico himself did not open his shop until 1998, he works in a building, and continues a tradition, that dates back centuries. You can purchase one of his hand-tailored shirts ‘off the rack’, or splurge a bit and have him make one exactly to your specifications (with his signature double-button collar). Or grab a specialty tie with a striking nautical flag embroidered embelishment.

Through the end of June, the Museo di Sant’Agostino hosts a fascinating exhibit on the Machines of Leonardo DaVinci - including his bicycle, the air screw, and a massive interpretation of one of his earliest gliders. Housing in a converted monastery, the building itself is also a lovely space to visit the 16th and 17th century paintings and sculptures on permanent display.

Since 1880, Amaretti di Voltaggio has been serving coffee, pastries, and liquor in this gorgeous shop a few blocks from Porto Antico. The shop/bar opens at 8am, so come early for a table outside (the people watching along this street is superb), and order a cafe correcto if you are feeling adventurous (they will put a shot of liquor into your coffee, so be ready), or just stick with the tried-and-true cappuccino for the most authentic Genovese morning.