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In a country full of beautiful historic sites, this may have been my favorite to explore. It has so much: a beautiful hilltop setting that offers views for miles; ruins that you can clamber over; restored Byzantine churches with incredible fresco work covering the walls and ceilings, and peaceful courtyards draped with bougainvillea; a working nunnery, where you might spot a nun going about her daily business; plus lots of cats. There’s an upper section, which is where you’ll find the ruins and the views. We drove up there first, and the nice woman at the ticket desk told us we should explore the upper section, then drive down to the lower, and drew out a route for us so that we could see everything. We spent about 3 hours total wandering and taking it all in. If you’re into Byzantine art, you could spend longer. And, unlike a lot of sites in Greece, the information panels are helpful and interesting, explaining different aspects of daily life in that era: who got to live inside the walls of the fort; where they got their water; burial practices. It’s a fair amount of walking, so stay hydrated, and take breaks in those peaceful courtyards. Then, if you want a spectacular drive, go from here over the mountains to Kalamata. The scenery is spectacular.

Upon reading up about Hokkaido, one of the popular “must tries” listed by fellow travelers was the age-imo, deep fried potato. Wondering what the fuss was all about, I had to try this. Living in Asia, we are quite familiar with deep fried sweet potatoes, so we were expecting something like that, but we were surprised to see that age-imo is actually made with regular potatoes, a popular produce of Hokkaido, much the same way the Americans consider the Idaho potato :-) Age-imo is usually sold in 3’s like the one in the photo. Upon biting into it, you’ll get a taste of that soft steaming hot potato inside. The batter tastes a lot like the hotdog on a stick batter :-) I think these are also sold in some of the outdoor food trucks but the one in the Nakayama Mountain Pass rest stop has been popularly mentioned. So if you’re on your way out of Sapporo to the Southwestern part of Hokkaido, you’ll most probably pass by Highway 230, and Nakayama Mountain Pass rest stop is just about an hour from Sapporo city center. You can also buy soft ice cream here. Be sure to try a special flavor like orange or melon. It is actually quite nice to eat ice cream in winter :-) There is a souvenir shop which sells all sorts of Hokkaido products. Get a cream puff, or buy a pack of those wonderful light and crisp Hokkaido cookies. Nakayama Mountain Pass is also where you can get great views of the famous Ezo Fuji (Mt Yotei) so be sure to get your cameras ready.

Film fans may remember the scene in Out of Africa when Denys Finch Hatton’s little yellow gypsy plane swooped above the pink flamingo–filled waters of Lake Nakuru to the sound of the John Barry soundtrack. The lake is indeed known for the thousands of flamingos that nest along its shores, attracted to the lake’s vast quantities of tasty algae. (Recent rising water levels have resulted in many of the birds moving their nests elsewhere, but naturalists believe they’ll return when the waters recede.) In 1961, the lake and its surrounding land were named Lake Nakuru National Park, now protecting the black and southern white rhinos, warthogs, lions, baboons, and other wildlife that live here. The lake is a roughly three-hour drive from Nairobi.

In 1971, squatters moved into the barracks on an abandoned military base and established Freetown Christiania, an autonomous district in the middle of the city. Later, many dwellers built their own homes on the 86-acre property. Although the Danish Supreme Court ruled this year that the state owns the land, the area’s nearly 1,000 residents have yet to be evicted. Today, visitors can bike along tree-lined paths and check out the handmade structures before they disappear. christiania.org. This appeared in the July/August 2011 issue.

In the middle of a metropolitan area of twenty million, Seoul’s historic Bukchon neighborhood has kept a traditional village feel. “Hanok"—traditional courtyard houses, with upswept tile roofs and latticed sliding doors—line the hilly streets. Some of them have been opened as small guesthouses. After a trans-Pacific flight, and then a bus ride into the city (from the new airport, built on reclaimed land in the Yellow Sea), I walked a few blocks up narrow lanes and through a wooden gate. I felt as if I’d stepped back into the Korean countryside of a century ago. A rooster and a rabbit shared the courtyard, filled with hydrangeas and herbs. A persimmon tree towered overhead. My room had sliding papered doors; a simple low bed and table; no TV...but free Wi-Fi! The friendly owner, whose family lives in one wing of the house, showed me the hot water machine where I could make instant ginseng tea and “ko-pi” (coffee). Not all hanok lodgings are so spartan. Behind the main courtyard of this house, a “sarang-chae” is also available—it’s like a mini-house (or casita), with its own private garden: rustic luxury. While staying here, I met an Israeli man and his Japanese wife on their way back to the Middle East, as well as a couple of professors of Indian languages from Seattle on their way to New Delhi. Bukchon is becoming more widely known as one of Asia’s urban gems. (For more information: http://www.seoul110.com/html_en/1.html)

Is this polished industrial space, in an odd corner of the Centro, the thinking man’s disco? Organizers prefer to speak in terms of a cultural center, and the installation’s multiple spaces are venues for everything from literary events and screenings to a dynamic agenda of live-music performances. But it’s the DJs and dancing that are bringing in crowds, crowds that are alternative and low-key, creative, sex-pref-neutral, and seemingly little impressed that their hangout has become so fabulous. Priced-to-move libations and overall edginess keep the crowd skewing young; the space’s various environments add variety to your night out—and sometimes there’s even a place where you can chat (or canoodle) without screaming.

Why we love it: A peaceful mountain hideaway with easy access to outdoor activities like golf, tennis, and hiking

The Highlights:
- A location surrounded by the campus of the University of the South and its history
- Luxurious rooms and common spaces with golf course views
- Popular Sunday brunch

The Review:
Owned and operated by the University of the South, the Sewanee Inn has become an important part of its small mountain town. Regular visitors include alumni and families visiting campus as well as fans of the great outdoors, who take advantage of the on-site Gil Hanse–designed golf course and the myriad hiking and biking opportunities on nearby Monteagle Mountain. Guests can also carry drinks from the cozy Shakerag Hollow lobby lounge out to the expansive open patio to enjoy beautiful sunsets over the edge of the ridge and to heckle their golfer friends as they approach the eighth green.

The entire property is intertwined into the history of the university, with artifacts thoughtfully positioned in nooks and shelves around the common areas and a small museum gallery just off the main lobby. Even the hotel restaurant, Eighteen58, is named for the year the university received its official charter. Guests and locals alike love the elevated comfort food served here, but especially popular is the Sunday brunch in the soaring Founders Hall, which includes a generous buffet, pancake and omelet stations, a Bloody Mary bar, and live entertainment. After brunch, hit the fitness center, borrow one of the inn’s complimentary bicycles, or simply return to your room, where amenities like cotton linens, flat-screen TVs, and Gilchrist & Soames bath products make for a luxurious retreat.

Why we love it: A roadside motel reborn as a stylish wine-country hideaway

The Highlights:
- Fun revived-retro style
- Wine country views for days
- Flavor-packed seasonal menus

The Review:
Mid-century roots meet rustic chic at this boutique property set on five acres overlooking the winelands of North Santa Barbara County. Originally built in the 1950s as a motel—it’s conveniently located just off the 101 freeway—the Skyview emerged from a multi-million-dollar renovation with a style that pays homage to its history, but also includes all the needed modern conveniences. Ranging from Cozy and Classic to Deluxe and Junior Suite options, the 33 rooms offer comfort in the form of mid-century-inspired furnishings, warm hardwood flooring and accents, high-speed Wi-Fi, leather club chairs, down duvets, and locally made bath products. Higher categories feature etxras like fireplaces, private patios, outdoor showers, or firepits.

The restored 1950s-era pool is now heated, ringed with striped loungers, and served by attendants (a menu of snacks and drinks is available), while the stylish lobby is the place for complimentary breakfast backed by wine-country views. The lively Norman restaurant culls produce—and wine—from the surrounding region for its fresh, flavorful menus; brunch on the terrace is particularly popular. Unlike in the past, when the motel’s guests were probably just looking for a clean roadside stop, Skylark is now a destination of its own—a hub for exploring wineries, borrowing a bike to visit the galleries and restaurants of historic Los Alamos, or just sipping a drink around the outdoor firepits.

Why we love it: A family-oriented resort where you can disconnect together

The Highlights:
- A ruggedly beautiful setting where the forest meets the lake
- Family-friendly activities like hiking, boating, and fishing
- A relaxed vibe that allows for disconnecting from the daily grind

The Review:
The most remote drive-in resort in northern Minnesota, Big Lake Wilderness Lodge transports guests to summer vacations of a bygone era. Surrounded by the Superior National Forest and a short walk or paddle from the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, the property focuses on simple pleasures, from lake views and starry skies to clean air, pure water, and freshly caught fish. Here, guests can hike on nearby trails; hit the lake in a kayak, canoe, or paddleboat; spend the day fishing for walleye; or simply relax lakeside and take in the scenery. On especially clear nights, you can even see the northern lights.

Pet-friendly cabins include well-equipped kitchens as well as picnic tables, Weber grills, and patio furniture. Most feature satellite TV, and the newly remodeled Horizon and Call of the Loon cabins come with a free pontoon boat rental. Plan a romantic getaway in a lakeshore studio cabin, or bring the whole brood to a two-bedroom or family-size option. When you’re ready to socialize, there’s a communal lodge with free Wi-Fi, TV, books, games, and a snow cone maker, as well as a wading beach with a water trampoline offshore. In case you forgot anything or need some tackle and live bait, there’s also a store stocked with the essentials for a week of family fun.

Situated in the center of the USA’s largest Japantown, this Joie de Vivre Hotel unveiled a $32 million renovation in May 2018. While the property’s historic exterior hasn’t been changed—it was once a 1960s Community Center and the former Japanese Consulate—the interiors have been redone by Brooklyn-based MARKZEFF Design with custom leather furniture, shibori accents, and contemporary Japanese art. Each of the 13 new Garden Suites face the Japanese zen garden that includes a koi pond, firepit, and a custom Godzilla mural by San Francisco-based artists Yukako Ezoe and Naoki Onodera of Bahama Kangaroo. At the center of the renovation is the living-room like lobby decorated with mid-century couches and lit with vintage factory pendants. The seasonal cocktail menu at the lobby bar focuses on Japanese whiskey and sake, while the bar menu includes Japanese-inspired bites like shishito peppers and chicken katsu sliders. There are happy hour specials every weekday from 4 to 6 p.m. and every Monday between 5 and 6 p.m. the bar hosts a vinyl hour where you can pick a record to play from the hotel’s collection of classics. For wellness-minded travelers, the new 3,000-square-foot fitness center located one level below the lobby looks out onto an open-air tea garden and features a yoga room and a Peloton bike (guests also have complimentary access to the nearby Kabuki Springs & Spa communal baths).

A landmark property perched between the city and the ocean, the El San Juan blends Old World elegance with tropical vibes. The famed hotel reopened on December 14, 2018 after a full restoration following Hurricane Maria and now features updated guestrooms, public spaces, and landscaping. Thankfully, the original feel was left intact, and details like the iconic chandelier and hand-carved mahogany ceiling in the lobby remain. Guests can still sip Champagne under sparkling crystals at the Chandelier Bar or party the night away at BRAVA, but now they can also sample Puerto Rico’s national spirit at rum bar 1958, grab a glass of vino at Wine Bar, or refuel with locally roasted Alto Grande coffee at El Cafecito. Also new to the property is Caña, a locally minded restaurant from Puerto Rican chef Juliana Gonzales, and Chico Cabaret, a hotspot off the lobby featuring live entertainment.

Ranging from guestrooms in the grand tower to villas surrounding the pool and beach, the 388 rooms all feature floor-to-ceiling windows with city, ocean, or pool views, as well as modern conveniences like sensor-activated air-conditioning, large HDTVs, and complimentary Wi-Fi. When not lounging on their Lovell Plush mattresses made exclusively for the hotel, guests can take a dip in one of four pools, sunbathe on the two-mile-long Isla Verde Beach, or visit the brand-new, tri-level Well & Being center for balancing spa treatments and fitness classes on the open-air rooftop.

Located on Goat Island in Narragansett Bay, Gurney’s feels secluded even though it’s just minutes from downtown Newport. Guests enjoy 360-degree water views from the expansive grounds, which include 257 guestrooms as well as three restaurants, a full-service spa, an outdoor saltwater pool, and more event space than any other property in town. Done up in soothing blues and greys, rooms feature king beds with plush pillows, soft sheets, and down blankets; large bathrooms with granite countertops and jet-stream tubs; and oversized desks for working in between lounging on the sun deck. Some premium view rooms boast harbor vistas from private balconies, while suites include spacious living rooms.

In the morning, guests can grab breakfast at Corso, an Italian-style coffee bar in the lobby, before catching the complimentary shuttle to downtown Newport for a day of exploring. Bikes are also available should they prefer to take in the famous mansions on two wheels. Of course, there’s also plenty to do on-site, from hanging at Newport’s only outdoor hotel pool, getting pampered at the Seawater Spa, and breaking a sweat at the 24-hour fitness center to scheduled activities like yoga classes, crafting sessions, wine tastings, and movie nights. Come evening, enjoy cocktails around the firepits at Regent Lounge, followed by an Italian-inspired dinner at Scarpetta. During the summer months, guests can also look forward to poolside dining at The Pineapple Club as well as a kids’ club for children ages 4 to 12.

If you find yourself at the pointy intersection of two 17th-century buildings in the 3rd Arrondisement, under a landmarked “Boulangerie” sign from one of Paris’ earliest bakeries (where Victor Hugo used to get his bread), you’ve arrived at this charming four-star hotel. Past the low-profile entry lie eclectic, eye-catching interiors designed by fashion legend Christian Lacroix, starting with a ground-floor public space awash in swirl of bold colors, oversized armchairs, and theater-backdrop-style wallpaper. The décor varies between the 17 rooms, as the designer worked within the different sizes and shapes to create unique personalities, so you might be surrounded by animal-print wallpaper, yards of taffeta, fresco-style paintings, a wall decorated with patterned tiles, or a ceiling adorned with stars. Aside from the two cozy Comfort level rooms, most are decently sized, and all feature high-end linens and pillows, Hermès bath amenities, free Wi-Fi, and either a shower or tub.

Enjoy breakfast in the bistro, which becomes a guests-only bar on Thursday through Saturday nights, or hang out in the lobby lounge with something from the honor bar and one of the MacBooks and iPads available on loan from the front desk. Complimentary bikes are on hand when you want to explore the lively Marais or head over to sister hotel, Le Pavillon de la Reine, to make use of its spa and gym.

Opened in 2012 in the Palmerie neighborhood, surrounded by views of the Djebilet Hills and Atlas Mountains, this stunning resort feels miles away from the world—though complimentary shuttles whisk guests to the town center in less than 25 minutes. The popularity with the glam crowd and the variety of super-sized accommodations also help make it feel like an upscale residential enclave. Choose between 41 chic rooms, suites, villas, and “palaces,” all connected by pathways that wind under Moorish arches, through gardens, and over flower-filled ponds; even the entry-level Deluxe Rooms offer plenty of space, with oversized bathrooms, fireplaces, outdoor seating, and a large heated plunge pool, while the three kinds of Suites, multi-bedroom Villas, and three private residence Palaces (with three or four bedrooms each) offer other perks like full-sized swimming pools, kitchens, and more outdoor living areas. Enjoy breakfast and dinner at the French-Moroccan Le Namaskar, lunch at La Table in the gardens, tea at Espace T, and drinks at a variety of bars, including the rooftop Nomad Bar, where bubbles are served to DJ-spun tunes and endless views. (The decadent brunch, served on the lawn with fluffy pillows as seats, is popular with locals, so be sure to make a reservation.) Though every room has a private pool for a dip, there’s also a main one ringed by loungers, as well as other soaking spots—and a full menu of treatments—at the lantern-lit spa.

A trailblazer of the boutique hotel scene, Hotel ZaZa has become a Texas-grown mini-chain over the last decade, with two properties in Houston and one in Austin. But this Uptown outpost remains a true original. The Mediterranean-inspired main building houses the bulk of the 168 accommodations, which include well-sized rooms with generous seating areas, plush king beds and, in some, private balconies. The real ZaZa flair, however, is reflected in the higher categories: 19 Concept Suites are done up in styles like “Bohemia,” “West Indies,” “Opium,” and “Shag-a-Delic;” upgrade further to a super-sized Magnificent Seven Suite (in themes like “Leonardo,” “Crouching Tiger,” and “Rock Star”), or one of the 12 one- and two-bedroom Bungalows, which are set in a 1930s-era former home away from the main hotel and feature individual touches like a vintage 1960s VW Bug tailgate, a 1940s TV fitted into a wooden cabinet, and furniture and artwork handpicked from around Texas. Guests of all rooms have access to free champagne and snacks in the lobby, the ZaSpa wellness retreat and gym, the lively Dragonfly restaurant, and the cabana-ringed pool, which turns into a party scene with DJs spinning after 10 p.m. Another ZaZa signature is the “Magic Carpet Ride,” the hotel’s version of a complimentary house car, which ferries you within five miles of the property in a decommissioned highway patrol car or a Cadillac hearse.