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How a complex of German-built factories became one of East Asia’s hottest art destinations is also the story of modern China. When construction on a number of electronics factories began in Dashanzi in 1956, the area was farmland. Joint Factory 718 was built and a decade later divided into smaller factories, including Factory 798. By the mid-’90s, the factories had shut down and Beijing’s Central Academy of Fine Arts, lured by cheap space, had moved out to Dashanzi. Interest snowballed, and soon more artists were setting up shop in these abandoned industrial spaces. Today, 798 is a powerhouse of contemporary Chinese art, with major galleries like UCCA, Long March Space, and Pace Beijing, as well as a few restaurants, shops, and even hotels.

The Kinnekulle area on the south bank of Lake Vänern is a paradise. Home to 18 nature reserves, the unique geology and chalky soils provides the perfect growing conditions for plants like ramps, ivy and various rare species like wild orchids. Kinnekulle is often referred to as “the flowering mountain.” In May, seeing the white ramps bloom thickly over the lush fields of Munkängarna nature reserve and smelling their subtle scent of garlic is something you just have to experience for yourself. A former chalk quarry at the edge of forest is a lovely picnic spot, and there are a number of fishing holes. There are also many medieval churches in the area, some of which date back to the 12th century.

For bibliophiles, a beautiful bookstore is akin to a church. Voices hush, smiles abound, and books are handled gently, like precious relics. An old home packed with an extensive collection of used and new titles, Bart’s Books opened in 1964, when Richard Bartinsdale’s collection became so huge that he constructed bookcases outside, so passersby could peruse the titles. Instead of a cash register, he left coffee cans on the shelves so customers could leave payment. Today, Bart’s is the largest independently owned and operated outdoor bookstore in the country—and the books outside are still for sale via the honor system. But the offerings extend indoors too. If you’re looking for cookbooks and culinary lore, check in the building’s kitchen. The living room features poetry. Art books are in the gallery. The rest of the place is a maze of bookshelves with corrugated tin roofing and open-air seating areas for reading at your leisure. Don’t worry about rain: The books are fairly well protected, and while a few may be lost in the rare heavy storm, most make it through perfectly fine.

Founded in 2010 by chefs Gústav Axel Gunnlaugsson and Lárus Gunnar Jónasson, Seafood Grill serves up decidedly upmarket Icelandic seafood dishes alongside high-quality meat dishes and some vegetarian-friendly offerings, too, in a wood-heavy interior that casually straddles the hip and the trad. As well as à la carte options such as slow-cooked lamb, grilled chicken breast, and some deliciously rich desserts (try the crème brûlée), the kitchen offers set menus like the multicourse Big Grill Party and Fish Feast. The wine and beer list is top-notch, as is the warm and friendly service. If that isn’t recommendation enough, the restaurant is conveniently located between the city’s famous Hallgrímskirkja church and the busy Laugavegur shopping street.

Landing in heat-soaked Kuala Lumpur after being on the road for 24 hours can be disorienting. Incessant chanting (“vei vel shakti vel”), monkeys screeching, wafting incense, a glorious moon, and a million people.


Thaipusam falls on a full moon and is the celebration in remembrance of Lord Murugan (his statue pictured at the base of the steep 272 steps to the Waterfall Temple at Batu Caves - the top being the best view) who received the “vel” (sacred spear) from his mother, Shiva’s wife, to kill three demons. Killing internal demons seems to be the order of the day for devotees.


The festivities begin with a chariot bearing the statue of Lord Murugan being drawn through the streets starting from Sri Maha Mariamman Temple and then on the second day (when I arrived), the fulfilling of the vows by devotees takes place at the Batu Caves after people walk barefoot approximately 15 kilometers starting in the middle of the night from Kuala Lumpur. The chariot returns to the Temple on the third day.


The real highlight is watching devotees with huge decorated frames (“kavadi”= burden”) supported by spikes that pierce their chests and backs as penance for answered prayers. As one devotee said to me, “Life is an act of gratitude and this is the ultimate day of gratitude to our deities.” I felt a deep empathy for the intense devotion and commitment of the Tamil Hindus I witnessed. This is truly one of the world’s great festivals of purification and atonement.

Located on the island’s unassuming south coast, down a street that doesn’t even have a name (which isn’t uncommon in Barbados) sits a little beach bar called the Carib. Wander up to the wood deck and smile at the Bajan waitress pulling double-duty behind the Mt. Gay Rum-lined bar, as she waves her hand at you, the universal sign for “just sit anywhere.” Pull up a non-luxurious plastic chair and soon you’ll find a cold Banks in your hand (the local brew - about the color of a Bud Light but with much more flavor) and a plate of steaming Bajan food on its way. The Carib, which I eat at almost daily during my time in Barbados (I’ve been to the island seven times), has the best flying fish on the island. Order yours platter or sandwich style, with sides of cou cou (a local dish about the consistency of mashed potatoes) and salad. Be sure and start your meal with a basket of pipping hot fish cakes - also the best on the island. Luckily when you’re done with lunch and ready for a nap, the beach is a few steps away. Grab a chair and an umbrella for $10 U.S. for the entire day. You probably have the beach to yourself, until school gets out when the local youth will stop by for a dip in the ocean and maybe a game of cricket.

Sure, it’s the largest town on St. Croix, but it’s the charming Danish-influenced architecture that makes it most noteworthy. The city center is a protected national park lined with candy-colored buildings and historic churches, while the streets are made of cobblestones and punctuated by stone archways. At the waterfront, which was a focal point of the island’s sugar trade, a wharf is populated by restaurants, bars and water sports shops. There’s also an 18th-century fort.

San Sebastián is a bike friendly town: bike paths (called bidegorris) run through the entire city, and locals gather several times a year to cheer on professional cyclists that pass through in droves. It makes sense, then, that there are several bike shops in town. Miner is one of the oldest, family-owned yet still totally relevant thanks to the newest generation that is at the helm. Everything a modern biker could want: single speeds, Adidas Country kicks, Fuga cargo bags, bells and bike seats in every color and pattern...it’s impossible to enter and not feel inspired, even if you don’t have a bike. Make sure to check out their selection of vintage style jerseys, downstairs.

Experience the khlongs, or canals, of the “Venice of the East” on a longtail boat and you’ll get a special look into the heart of Bangkok. Most of Bangkok’s waterways were dug in the 18th and 19th centuries, and while some have been filled in and paved over, there are still an amazing number to explore. Several of them, such as Khlong Saen Saeb, go through the center of the city, and the Khlong Bangkok Yai, on the western side of the Chao Phraya, cuts through one of the oldest parts of town. Many tours leave from the central piers on the river and are no more than a couple of hours long.

The village of Monticello just outside of L’Île-Rousse would be worth a visit just for its wonderful coastal views, which come courtesy of its perch 213 meters (700 feet) above the sea. Like many towns here in the Balagne region it’s also known for a gorgeous church: Saint-François-Xavier, which has two fine Baroque chapels. Further down a mountain road that passes through groves of olive trees, Santa-Reparata is a village with another handful of historic churches and chapels.

There isn’t much to do in Laborie, but the colorful spot on the southwestern coast offers visitors the experience of an authentic St. Lucian fishing village. The point is to slow down to local speed. Enjoy the views of the white-sand shore lined with pirogues, the traditional fishing canoes. Walk around the village, where plywood homes and ancient churches exist alongside newer structures. Whet your appetite with a trip to the open-air market, where you’ll spot green figs (bananas) and cassava bread for sale. Settle in for a grilled lobster lunch with a side of breadfruit at Mama Tilly’s. Then walk north along the water to Rudy John Beach Park, a shaded stretch of sand ideal for an afternoon nap and sunset.

One of the city’s oldest teahouses, Insadong Chatjip hand-makes everything on its menu, from drinks to desserts. Unlike China’s and Japan’s traditional leaf teas, many of the Korean teas on offer here feature herbs, spices, or fruits like quince and plums that are believed to have medicinal properties. Don’t be surprised if some taste sugary sweet—it’s common to add heaps of honey or syrup to the blends. If you prefer a more delicate flavor, stick to the buckwheat or Ujeon green teas. In addition to drinks, this two-level teahouse has a lovely open-air courtyard where guests can enjoy their tea alongside cookies and rice cakes.

Jeju is known as the “Hawaii of South Korea” because of its blue waters and volcanic makeup (minus the tropical weather). One of island’s top experiences is ending the day with a solemn stroll through Jeju Stone Park, a tranquil space with conceptual rock displays inspired by local mythology and geology. The main draw is the outdoor stone sculptures and cultural village, complemented by a couple of indoor museums exhibits. Highlights include the tomb guardian children and grandfatherly, basalt “dolhareubang” figures. In olden times, the dolhareubang were considered to be gods offering both protection and fertility and were placed outside of gates for protection against demons.

The lifeblood of modern Istanbul is the two-mile-long pedestrian street Istiklal Caddesi (Independence Avenue), running from Taksim Square to the Tünel train station. It’s equal parts touristy and local, commerce and culture, and strolling down the avenue to shop, dine, or just socialize is a favorite pastime of many Istanbullus. (The beloved red-and-white tram is out of service for the foreseeable future while the street gets some much-needed maintenance.) Though many complain about encroaching international chain stores and shopping malls taking the thoroughfare’s distinct character away, there are still plenty of gems if you follow the backstreets and duck into the historic passages. Don’t forget to look up: Many of the art nouveau and Ottoman-era buildings house rooftop cafés and businesses above street level.

One of South Africa’s most famous sights, Robben Island is located four miles to the west of Cape Town. Its history as a prison is almost as old as the first Dutch settlement on the cape, dating all the way back to the 17th century. Today, the island is a UNESCO World Heritage site and museum, offering guided tours by former prisoners. After visiting the graveyard and maximum-security facility, guests can finish with a stop at the cell of the island’s most famous prisoner, Nelson Mandela. The half-hour ferry ride to Robben Island includes breathtaking views of Cape Town and Table Mountain. Just note that the ferry only runs three times a day in the low season; in the spring and summer, there’s an additional departure in the late afternoon. Book your tickets far in advance.