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A piragua is shaved ice with syrup. Piragueros (the piragua vendors) and their colorful wooden pushcarts used to be ubiquitous in Puerto Rico many years ago. Now they’re few and far between (usually found in town squares) and with the heat bearing down more than ever, locals run to every piraguero they can find for equal parts refreshment and reminiscence. The most loved syrup flavors include raspberry, sesame seed, anise, and mantecado (ice cream).

This is Isla Magueyes, the island that once harbored the Mayaguez Zoo but was later turned into the Department of Marine Sciences of the University of Puerto Rico, Mayaguez. This is solely a graduate department, offering degrees in four disciplines of oceanography. Isla Magueyes is also home to brown Cuban iguanas—pretty much found only on this little island where they are content with human visitors and residents of the island. To give you a glimpse of these large iguanas, you can take tours from mainland La Parguera that will pass by Isla Magueyes. You won’t usually see them anywhere else in Puerto Rico, thanks to the invasive green iguana seen everywhere. If you’re a visiting scientist or prospective student to the department, you can even stay on Isla Magueyes while conducting research or classes.

In 1862, the Panaderia La Patria (The Homeland Bakery) was established in the mountain town of Morovis. One of the oldest bakeries in the island, La Patria offers a variety of traditional Puerto Rican sweets like flan and quesitos (a pastry filled with cheese whipped with vanilla, eggs, and sugar). But we all know the bakery best for its “pan de la patita echa.” (“Echar la pata” is slang and can have various meanings, one of which is to start or throw yourself into something.) This is a kind of lard bread made only in Puerto Rico that looks like it has its legs crossed. Ask them to show your the century-old red oven in which they make their different breads and pastries.

When I first found this store, I was overwhelmed. This place holds so many treasures, you’ll need several trips to look through everything. Franky’s is one of the most popular thrift/vintage stores in Puerto Rico, and likely only one of a few. The proprietor provides a lot of his items as props for movies being filmed in PR—like the recent Rum Diaries movie. If you like vintage, then you’ll love shopping here. It’s on the corner of San Francisco Street, right behind the little plaza as you enter Old San Juan.

Sunny days should be cherished, and Puerto Rico offers plenty of them. Beaches are wonderful when you’re seeking to escape the heat, but Old San Juan will have you embracing the rays and feeling just as wild and free. The whole family will have a blast running around the fields of El Morro, tirelessly trying to keep a cat- or airplane-shaped kite soaring through the air. At the Plaza del Quinto Centenario, where water shoots up from the ground in foamy jets, join the locals as they gather around to frolic and cool off.

One of my favorite dive sites on the west coast of Puerto Rico is Crashboat in Aguadilla. This shore dive is easily accessible for all levels of diving, and you’re guaranteed to see something amazing on this artificial structure. Crashboat is named for this once Air Force based marina, where the “crashboats” would deploy to retrieve the crashed planes from training sessions of Air Force pilots. It was later abandoned and turned into a recreational area for locals and dive enthusiasts. Scout the pilings for seahorses, frogfish, octopi, and lionfish. At maximum depth of 30 feet, find a sunken base where bigger fish like to hide. Bring your flashlight to scope out the interior. Not a diver? No problem. Enjoy the sandy beaches, reggaeton music, and aromas of delicious Puerto Rican food all day long. One entire side of this recreational park is lined with street vendors selling food, handicrafts, and drinks. Want that true Puerto Rican vibe? Want to see how the locals relax on a weekend? Crashboat is your place. But if you’re not interested in the crowds, come here in the morning on a weekday. I dive here regularly, and I avoid crowds by diving early. Enjoy!

The laid-back restaurant Carbon Caribbean Cuisine takes you on a culinary journey around the Caribbean. You can order typical dishes from Cuba, Jamaica, Puerto Rico, and, of course, the Dominican Republic. Popular with locals, Carbon offers a glimpse of island life beyond the beaches and resorts.

A landmark property perched between the city and the ocean, the El San Juan blends Old World elegance with tropical vibes. The famed hotel reopened on December 14, 2018 after a full restoration following Hurricane Maria and now features updated guestrooms, public spaces, and landscaping. Thankfully, the original feel was left intact, and details like the iconic chandelier and hand-carved mahogany ceiling in the lobby remain. Guests can still sip Champagne under sparkling crystals at the Chandelier Bar or party the night away at BRAVA, but now they can also sample Puerto Rico’s national spirit at rum bar 1958, grab a glass of vino at Wine Bar, or refuel with locally roasted Alto Grande coffee at El Cafecito. Also new to the property is Caña, a locally minded restaurant from Puerto Rican chef Juliana Gonzales, and Chico Cabaret, a hotspot off the lobby featuring live entertainment.

Ranging from guestrooms in the grand tower to villas surrounding the pool and beach, the 388 rooms all feature floor-to-ceiling windows with city, ocean, or pool views, as well as modern conveniences like sensor-activated air-conditioning, large HDTVs, and complimentary Wi-Fi. When not lounging on their Lovell Plush mattresses made exclusively for the hotel, guests can take a dip in one of four pools, sunbathe on the two-mile-long Isla Verde Beach, or visit the brand-new, tri-level Well & Being center for balancing spa treatments and fitness classes on the open-air rooftop.

Coco frios are sold on every corner during the high season (fall and winter) in Puerto Rico. Cold, fresh coconut water is the lifeblood of island living. Literally, if you were ever stranded on an island, you could sustain yourself on what’s inside a coconut (just ask Les Stroud). There is a difference between coconut water and coconut milk. Coconut water is clear to translucent and not as sweet—you harvest this from a fresh green coconut that has just fallen, or is ready to fall from the tree. It might taste unusual at first if you have never tried it, but this is actually the best form of natural electrolytes to replenish yourself after a workout or surf session. Watch the roadsides for the carts and folks with machetes—because this is your hint that coco frios await you!

The customary dessert of Puerto Rico, the brazo gitano (gypsy arm), can be found at Franco’s in Mayaguez. This place has been around for generations, preparing the rolls for local markets and grocers and also for their own store. The cake is rolled into a log shape and then pumped with a filling. This one is a zanahoria (carrot) cake with a cream cheese filling. You can find many types of rolls, with all sorts of fillings. The traditional ones contain fruit jams. When in Mayaguez, be sure to stop here for this delicious roll.

La Poza del Obispo (Bishop’s Pool) is a hidden treasure near the Arecibo Lighthouse in Puerto Rico. This beach is loved for its contrast. You will find a calm spot (though it can get rough in bad weather) where you may float, swim, or simply stand around talking to friends. This area is surrounded by limestone rocks. On the rocks and beyond them, as you near the open sea, large bursts of water spray into the air. The water is so clear that a fish and I once became friends. He kept swimming by my side and stopping when I stopped. The tiny silver and blue fish amused me for quite a few minutes. It’s a clean little area where you can sift through seashells and, if you snorkel, you can take a peek at coral on the rocks. Feel free to bring food and have a picnic, since there are a couple of tables and trashcans around.

The thermal hot springs in Rincón de La Vieja at Rio Negro (Black River) may not be as well known as those in the Arenal area, but we had the pools and surrounding forest to ourselves. From where we stayed at the Hacienda Guachipelin Rincón de La Vieja, the springs were accessible by horseback or vehicle, followed by a short hike and crossing a rather dubious hanging bridge. The pools are heated by the Rincón de La Vieja Volcano, so you definitely want to test the steaming water. There are seven pools to sample of different shapes, sizes and temperatures. The first pool was too hot to plunge more than our toes into. And the pool that was “just right” was the last one, which happened to be ideally situated next to the churning river. After two days of horseback riding, hiking, canyon ziplining and rappelling, it was great to unwind at this private oasis. If a rainforest/volcano adventure beckons you, I recommend staying at Hacienda Guachipelin Rincón de La Vieja and getting an adventure pass from Adventure Tours--both are at Rincón de La Vieja National Park.

This woman-owned artisanal aged-cheese producer was on the front wave of what is an increasingly vibrant local food movement. Wanda Otero, a microbiologist, decided to start her business in part to offer Puerto Ricans an alternative to expensive imported cheeses. She has since expanded into yogurt-making, and her products are now sold in supermarkets and found on the menus of the island’s finest restaurants. Travelers can visit the Vaca Negra facility for a tour, which includes the opportunity to make their own cheese.

When I first moved to the island, I joined a friend in the Old City for a tour and lesson on the history of Puerto Rico. When passing by this little section of town near Pigeon Park, my friend and native-turned-tour-guide said that this was the smallest house in Old San Juan. Wow, okay, so this little yellow portion is technically a house? I’ve visited this site several more times since then and have never actually seen anyone enter or leave this door. Whether it’s true or not, it makes for a cool story and great photo.

On Puerto Rico, horses roam the farms, the mountains, the town centers—and also the beaches. A couples’ horse ride at sunset is a perfect way to kiss the day good-bye. With Tropical Trail Rides, in the northwestern municipality of Isabela, you can take a two-hour ride through the forest and by the beach as the sun sinks down toward the water. Make sure you take the opportunity to break for a hike or a swim along the way. On the north side of the island in Manatí, Kerry’s Horses designs personalized sunset rides by the beach or through nature reserves.