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One of my favorite dive sites on the west coast of Puerto Rico is Crashboat in Aguadilla. This shore dive is easily accessible for all levels of diving, and you’re guaranteed to see something amazing on this artificial structure. Crashboat is named for this once Air Force based marina, where the “crashboats” would deploy to retrieve the crashed planes from training sessions of Air Force pilots. It was later abandoned and turned into a recreational area for locals and dive enthusiasts. Scout the pilings for seahorses, frogfish, octopi, and lionfish. At maximum depth of 30 feet, find a sunken base where bigger fish like to hide. Bring your flashlight to scope out the interior. Not a diver? No problem. Enjoy the sandy beaches, reggaeton music, and aromas of delicious Puerto Rican food all day long. One entire side of this recreational park is lined with street vendors selling food, handicrafts, and drinks. Want that true Puerto Rican vibe? Want to see how the locals relax on a weekend? Crashboat is your place. But if you’re not interested in the crowds, come here in the morning on a weekday. I dive here regularly, and I avoid crowds by diving early. Enjoy!

In 1862, the Panaderia La Patria (The Homeland Bakery) was established in the mountain town of Morovis. One of the oldest bakeries in the island, La Patria offers a variety of traditional Puerto Rican sweets like flan and quesitos (a pastry filled with cheese whipped with vanilla, eggs, and sugar). But we all know the bakery best for its “pan de la patita echa.” (“Echar la pata” is slang and can have various meanings, one of which is to start or throw yourself into something.) This is a kind of lard bread made only in Puerto Rico that looks like it has its legs crossed. Ask them to show your the century-old red oven in which they make their different breads and pastries.

A favorite with the locals, especially government workers at lunch, this place is always packed, and with good reason. For $10 or less for an authentic and delicious lunch special (with a drink), this place is a steal. Try the asopao de camarones (shrimp soup with vegetables and saffron rice) with a side of tostones (mashed and fried plantains) and ask for the local hot sauce, pique, a smoking mixture of habañero peppers, black peppercorns, spices, and oil and vinegar. Service is reasonably fast and the waiters are friendly, but certain times of day (12-1pm weekdays, and 6-8pm on weekends) can be impossible for getting a table. Reserve ahead, or be prepared to wait in the plaza nearby.

A piragua is shaved ice with syrup. Piragueros (the piragua vendors) and their colorful wooden pushcarts used to be ubiquitous in Puerto Rico many years ago. Now they’re few and far between (usually found in town squares) and with the heat bearing down more than ever, locals run to every piraguero they can find for equal parts refreshment and reminiscence. The most loved syrup flavors include raspberry, sesame seed, anise, and mantecado (ice cream).

This is Isla Magueyes, the island that once harbored the Mayaguez Zoo but was later turned into the Department of Marine Sciences of the University of Puerto Rico, Mayaguez. This is solely a graduate department, offering degrees in four disciplines of oceanography. Isla Magueyes is also home to brown Cuban iguanas—pretty much found only on this little island where they are content with human visitors and residents of the island. To give you a glimpse of these large iguanas, you can take tours from mainland La Parguera that will pass by Isla Magueyes. You won’t usually see them anywhere else in Puerto Rico, thanks to the invasive green iguana seen everywhere. If you’re a visiting scientist or prospective student to the department, you can even stay on Isla Magueyes while conducting research or classes.

We found the best spot for the freshest açai bowl on the west coast of Puerto Rico. Da Bowls in Aguadilla beats anything in Rincon or anywhere else on the island. Mix and match your own, or go with their selection. We chose the Reef Bowl, which has a bit of everything—including the health-crazed addition of bee pollen. With a price that fits your budget and enough food to fill your stomach, this is the best place for a quick and healthy snack.

Centuries-old catacombs decorated with human bones pepper the crypts at this Franciscan monastery dating to 1774. Decked out in impressive Spanish Baroque architecture, the canary-yellow church and monastery also house a remarkable library with some 25,000 antique texts (some predating the Spanish Conquest) and are flush with romantic courtyards and cloisters. Don’t forget to look up: A magnificent Moorish-style cupola, carved of Nicaraguan cedar in 1625, oversees the main staircase.

Nestled on beautiful Playa Dorado in Puerto Plata, this elegant hotel features 50 stylish suites, complete with neutral decor, flowering orchids, and private furnished balconies. Some suites can be connected, but for even more space book the penthouse, which includes three bedrooms, a large living room, and a freestanding outdoor tub. In addition to a pristine beach, Casa Colonial boasts a sleek rooftop pool, a restaurant that serves fine French-Caribbean cuisine, and a spa with a treatment gazebo above a tropical pond. When staying here, don’t miss the chance to explore Puerto Plata and its charming main square surrounded by Spanish colonial and Victorian buildings, as well as the more-than-500-year-old remains of Fort San Felipe. Fifteen minutes from the resort, you can also swim in freshwater lagoons in El Choco National Park.

When I first found this store, I was overwhelmed. This place holds so many treasures, you’ll need several trips to look through everything. Franky’s is one of the most popular thrift/vintage stores in Puerto Rico, and likely only one of a few. The proprietor provides a lot of his items as props for movies being filmed in PR—like the recent Rum Diaries movie. If you like vintage, then you’ll love shopping here. It’s on the corner of San Francisco Street, right behind the little plaza as you enter Old San Juan.

Doña Olga* is a large kiosk in Piñones, from which the smell of fritters wafts all the way to the beach. I often find myself getting a large order of bacalaitos (round cod fritters), empanadillas (turnovers), alcapurrias (dough of plantains or yucca and filled with meat), and piononos (deep-fried sweet plantain balls stuffed with meat and cheese). Halfway through the meal, I start thinking my eyes are bigger than my stomach, but the flood of Puerto Rican flavors in my mouth makes me devour every last morsel in front of me. Of course, there’s no way I’d be able to handle all that without a refreshing drink on hand. My drink of choice is coconut water. (It’s completely natural; an employee will chop off the top of the coconut with a machete and bring it to you with a straw.) After you drink the water, you can scoop out coconut meat (the white stuff), which serves as a pleasantly light dessert. A swim in the nearby beach (two minutes away walking) and a nice nap will perfect your day. *Doña Olga is my first choice, but this whole road is bursting with beachside kiosks selling fritters and other Puerto Rican fare.

The Heladería de Lares, a 45-year-old family business, sells about 50 unusual flavors of ice cream up in the mountains. Salvador Berreto, known to the locals as Yinyo, founded the shop to commemorate the Grito de Lares, a battle for freedom that had taken place exactly one century before. Yinyo started with corn, a flavor at the heart of the Puerto Rican diet and the current bestseller. Other flavors are cod, coquito (the Puerto Rican version of eggnog), and rice and beans. Fortunately, you can taste two flavors before deciding what to buy, and the ice cream is cheap, so you can stock up. Every weekend, people form what locals like to call lines, but are really boisterous blobs extending half a block down from the shop’s entrance. While eating, people skim through newspaper clips about when Denise Quiñones, a girl from Lares, won a Miss Universe pageant, or study photos of the 1945 Fuego de la Candelaria (a fire in Lares). After reading about the history behind Lares’s anthem and running their hands over the guiro (a musical instrument played by scraping its serrated surface), people often wander outside to the Plaza de la Revolucion. Here, on a typical Sunday, artisans sell paintings of the three magi (the Puerto Ricans’ second Santa) and of flamboyanes (the national trees with orange flowers). If you have doubts as to whether it’s worth it, just ask Bill Clinton and his daughter Chelsea. In 2008, Clinton forced $100 into the hands of Yinyo’s son for a mango ice cream.

Sunny days should be cherished, and Puerto Rico offers plenty of them. Beaches are wonderful when you’re seeking to escape the heat, but Old San Juan will have you embracing the rays and feeling just as wild and free. The whole family will have a blast running around the fields of El Morro, tirelessly trying to keep a cat- or airplane-shaped kite soaring through the air. At the Plaza del Quinto Centenario, where water shoots up from the ground in foamy jets, join the locals as they gather around to frolic and cool off.

This woman-owned artisanal aged-cheese producer was on the front wave of what is an increasingly vibrant local food movement. Wanda Otero, a microbiologist, decided to start her business in part to offer Puerto Ricans an alternative to expensive imported cheeses. She has since expanded into yogurt-making, and her products are now sold in supermarkets and found on the menus of the island’s finest restaurants. Travelers can visit the Vaca Negra facility for a tour, which includes the opportunity to make their own cheese.

You can find a number of small craft boutiques in Rincon, but none as eclectic as The Mango Beach Shop. Owned by a longtime resident of Rincon, one of the first non Puerto Ricans to call the west coast home, it’s a local legacy and favorite. Whenever I want to bring home a piece of local flare to friends and family, this is always my first stop. They have custom-made T-shirts, sarongs, jewelry, paintings, and more. Tell Milena that Chelsea sent you!

The laid-back restaurant Carbon Caribbean Cuisine takes you on a culinary journey around the Caribbean. You can order typical dishes from Cuba, Jamaica, Puerto Rico, and, of course, the Dominican Republic. Popular with locals, Carbon offers a glimpse of island life beyond the beaches and resorts.