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This modish spot steps from Bellevue is a hit for its enticing cakes and excellent coffee, but its savory menu shouldn’t be missed; there are simple, superb salads and great flammekuchen. Consider yourself warned though: service can be frustratingly slow.

Sure, the menu comes in a dozen languages, but Zeughauskeller is no mere tourist trap. Occupying a 15th century building on Paradeplatz, the setting—arched windows, wooden ceiling beams and stone columns—is transportive, while traditional dishes include the Bürgermeister Schwert (veal steaks pounded thin and wrapped around a long sword blade and grilled). The house beer is an exclusive from the local TurbinenBräu brewery.

Zurich’s original 14 guilds were established in Medieval times to represent different crafts- and tradesmen, and their grand, stately buildings that still dot the city are a testament to their one-time power. Fortunately, most are well-preserved and now serve as fine restaurants. Zunfthaus zur Waag, house of the guild of wool and linen weavers, has a Biedermeier-style dining room with lots of wood-paneling, stained glass windows, and a terrific view of the Münsterhof. The dish to order is the Zürcher Geschnetzeltes, the classic Zurich specialty of pan-fried veal with a creamy white-wine sauce.

This silk mill turned cultural center on Lake Zurich’s left bank hosts over a hundred concerts, parties and festivals a year and is home to 60 art studios. It’s also a popular bar, especially come summer, when locals flock to the communal outdoor tables steps from the water’s edge (a favorite place to sit is in one of the handful of old-school ski lifts for prime views of the Alps). The setting is colorful and edgy—graffiti everywhere, plants shooting out from clawfoot bathtubs—a rarity so far from Kreis 4 and 5. Photo © Christian Beutler/Zürich Tourismus.

The right bank of the Limmat is home to the busy, cobblestoned Niederdorfstrasse, lined with bustling cafés, bars and restaurants, none more bustling than the sprawling over-a-century-old Johanniter, a can’t-miss-it spot with its giant Swiss and Zurich flags marking its entrance. Inside, patrons dine on huge portions of traditional specialties like raclette (melted cheese served with potatoes and pickled cucumbers and onions) under tall, vaulted ceilings.

The terrace at ETH Zurich—where Einstein was an alum—lords high above the city for catch-your-breath views beyond to the lake and the Alps. A number of trams will take you to the terrace, but the most fun way to get there is on the fire-engine red Polybahn, one of only two funiculars left in the city, and the most conveniently located. It runs every 2.5 minutes from the Central stop.

A midsummer night’s fantasy—Zurich-style. Tucked away near the stock exchange, the city’s oldest badi, the men-only Männerbad Schanzengraben, transforms into the popular Rimini Bar come evening. The scene is surreal: a mixed crowd mingling along the edges of the pool, a shooting fountain, technicolor lights—all surrounded by the ivy-covered old city wall. On Monday evenings, local fashion designers add to the mix by showcasing their creations.

Hugo Ball read the Dada Manifesto at this Altstadt cabaret in 1916, and an art movement was born. After extensive repairs, Dada’s birthplace reopened in 2004 with a bar along with exhibitions, readings, and a small lending library that pays homage to its historic past.

Tibits shows that this bratwurst-and-raclette loving city can do delicious seasonal vegetarian and vegan dishes well, and imaginatively, too. The enticing buffet includes creations like a melon-accented Thai tofu salad and tomato spelt risotto, served in a colorful, floral wallpaper-accented fast-casual setting.

This Altstadt institution known for its specialty coffee beans, teas and spices also sells a small, but excellent selection of specialty Swiss chocolate bars, including Akesson’s and Idillio Origins, and delicious chocolate oddities like dark-chocolate covered Criollo beans and ginger sticks.

The Niederdorf may be overrun with tourists, but it’s mostly locals who make their way down a quiet side street to this restaurant, which boasts excellent local wines, dishes driven by seasonal ingredients, and what might be the city’s loveliest garden, shaded by huge trees and strung with lanterns.

The 25hours brand is known for its playful take on the hotel experience, and this Zurich establishment follows suit. With an interior concocted by local designer Alfredo Häberli, the space features the usual mix of colorful, offbeat furnishings, slick design, and casual friendliness, as well as the cute touch of Häberli’s personal city tips scrawled on various surfaces.

The rooms and suites are separated into categories of silver, gold, and platinum to reflect the city’s banking-capital status. That’s as corporate as it gets, however, since the interiors are decidedly funky, with bold colors, quirky carpets and artwork, and angular work desks. The hotel also offers a restaurant, living room and business lounge (with iMac workstation and free Wi-Fi), plus an in-house kiosk that stocks everything from necessities (shampoo and toothpaste) to accessories (Freitag bags).

An hour outside of Zurich is Mount Rigi, one of the most stunning places I’ve ever seen. Departing from Zurich on a day tour, we drove by bus to Lucerne where we were lead to a cable car depot at the foothill of the mountain before continuing uphill by train. This took us close to the summit where we carried on by foot. We couldn’t have asked for a more beautiful day. The air was fresh, the lake crystal clear, the sky blue, the sun bright and the experience priceless. Once atop the mountain within the Alps, we were in awe of the spectacular panoramic views, we contemplated life and took time out for lunch at the hilltop restaurant before heading back to Lucerne by ferry before dusk. As you see here, it was a joyful day. We did flips and cartwheels amid the Alps to mark the success of our accomplished journey. It’s most definitely a day I won’t forget.

The tree-lined Utoquai and Arboretum at Enge offer excellent views of Lake Zurich and the snow-capped Alps, but the iconic spot for lake-gazing is at the Bürkliterrasse, with its statue of Zeus and Ganymede and straight-shot view of the Alps. Photo © Bruno Macor /FB/Zürich Tourismus.

This historic wooden badi situated along the pretty tree-lined Utoquai near the Zurich Opera House has welcomed lakeside idlers since 1890, and parts of the original swimming “palace” still remain intact. There are now mixed and separate pools and sunbathing areas (with the occasional nude bather), plus floating decks and diving platforms. On any given summer day, there’s a lot of lake traffic nearby—crisscrossing sailboats and paddleboats—which is great if you want to feel part of the action, though a slight nuisance if it’s tranquil waters you’re seeking.