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With its walls of colorful glass bottles, this charming little bar can be elusive—nestled deep in downtown Athens, in the warren of streets that make up the Plaka. Day or night, Brettos (pronounced Vrettos in Greek) is frequented by locals and tourists alike—the oldest distillery in Athens. While you can opt for beer, wine, homemade moonshine, or perhaps a cocktail, you might kick yourself later for passing up the chance to have an ouzo, Greece’s signature anise-flavored liquor, in such a storied watering hole. Who knows where that first sip might lead?

Spectacular hilltop villages are a dime a dozen on the Greek islands, but Astypalea, a distant speck in the Dodecanese, has the quintessential sugar-cube capital cascading over a rocky outcrop to a sheltered harbor. The oldest houses are huddled along the cliffs circling the Venetian Querini Castle. Castro Bar is built right into the 15th-century castle walls (which look even more dramatic when illuminated by moonlight). A series of small terraces on different levels, painted in white, burgundy, and blue, all offer stupendous views across the island and what feels like the whole Aegean. The vibe is mellow, and the drinks are strong. Stay until the sun rises out of the sea, a trippy experience you won’t forget.

Kinsterna Hotel & Spa is in an 800-year-old mansion. Guestrooms feature such details as original fireplaces and Byzantine domes. The hammamlike spa was inspired by the natural springs that flow through the property.

From $234. 30/273-206-6300.

This appeared in the January/February 2013 issue.

In the heart of D.C.'s Penn Quarter, Zaytinya serves up a variety of tapas inspired by traditional dishes from Greece, Lebanon, and Turkey. It also has a selection of wines from such Eastern Mediterranean countries and seasonally serves a hot tea with a blooming jasmine flower. Falafel, hummus, and roasted cauliflower are among my favorite menu items. Try the Turkish coffee at weekend brunch.

Romance is easy to come by at Emelisse, on a private beach on Kefalonia. One turquoise infinity pool spills into another before seeming to pour directly into the glittering Ionian Sea. Come evening, dozens of glowing lanterns illuminate the stone terraces and two outdoor restaurants, as well as the open-air cinema. Framed by dark cypress and cedar trees, the suites, villas, and two-story maisonettes cater to every combination of adults and children with teak canopy beds and fine Italian linens. Just as enchanting as the setting are Emelisse’s myriad activities. Guests can sign up for scuba lessons and tennis matches, or take a 25-minute walk to the quaint port town of Fiskardo. If you’re looking for more adventurous pursuits, the largest of the Ionian islands offers everything from steep cliffs and mountains (Mount Aenos is the third highest in Greece) to stunning sand and pebble shorelines.

Gialova Lagoon is a birder’s paradise, home to over 270 species on account of its shallow waters and abundance of fish and plants. It’s Greece‘s southernmost major wetland and the only place in Europe where you can see the African chameleon. The lagoon is part of the Natura 2000 network, a group of ecological important protected areas in the European Union. Between September and May is the best time to visit Gialova Lagoon, as fall and spring are migration periods and winter is great for spotting eagles, herons, and bitterns. For a guided experience on foot or by bike, Navarino Outdoors offers a variety of Gialova Lagoon tours.

For many travelers to Greece, there’s a conundrum: Do you concentrate on the mainland—Athens, Delphi—or do you spend your time cruising the islands—from fashionable Mykonos to holy Patmos? With Grand Circle Cruise Line, you don’t have to make that decision. The first week of the 15-day Treasures of the Aegean: Greek Island Cruise, Athens & Istanbul itinerary includes the monasteries of Meteora, perched atop rock formations; the town of Kalambaka, Thessaly, where you’ll discover a Byzantine tradition when you stop at an icon-painting workshop and meet one of the artisans; and the majestic ancient sanctuary of Delphi. Then you depart on a cruise to the Aegean’s most beautiful islands aboard a 50-passenger small ship. You’ll call at ports including Amorgos, Delos, and Naxos, where you’ll sit down for an island dinner with some of its residents. While you’ll be following the routes of ancient heroes, Grand Circle assures that travelers also experience modern-day life in the country from those who live, work, and play here. Exclusive Discovery Series events take you deeper, show you more, and give you an unfiltered look into daily life whether you’re dining with a Greek family during a Home-Hosted Dinner, or participating in a cooking class in the mountain village of Arachova.

In a country full of beautiful historic sites, this may have been my favorite to explore. It has so much: a beautiful hilltop setting that offers views for miles; ruins that you can clamber over; restored Byzantine churches with incredible fresco work covering the walls and ceilings, and peaceful courtyards draped with bougainvillea; a working nunnery, where you might spot a nun going about her daily business; plus lots of cats. There’s an upper section, which is where you’ll find the ruins and the views. We drove up there first, and the nice woman at the ticket desk told us we should explore the upper section, then drive down to the lower, and drew out a route for us so that we could see everything. We spent about 3 hours total wandering and taking it all in. If you’re into Byzantine art, you could spend longer. And, unlike a lot of sites in Greece, the information panels are helpful and interesting, explaining different aspects of daily life in that era: who got to live inside the walls of the fort; where they got their water; burial practices. It’s a fair amount of walking, so stay hydrated, and take breaks in those peaceful courtyards. Then, if you want a spectacular drive, go from here over the mountains to Kalamata. The scenery is spectacular.

The Samaria Gorge is considered the “Grand Canyon” of Europe. This 16km trek is best started in the mid-morning to allow enough time to hike and to avoid the crowds that start the trek early. The gorge became a park in 1962, and is famous for the “Iron Gates” - a narrow spot where the walls of the gorge tower to over 1,000 feet, with a width of only 13 feet! You may even spot a kri-kri (a wild and rare Cretan goat)! This photograph was taken in October (late in the season) when I led a kayaking expedition in Crete.

It’s always fun stumbling upon places the locals frequent. If you’re in Athens, venture beyond Monaistaraki/the Plaka and all the typical souvlaki joints to the Metaxourgeio neighborhood. Here, you’ll find Seychelles—described by Buzzfeed as “one of the 31 places you should eat around the world before you die.” Here, not only are the clientele and interior space hip, but the menu is fun and creative with simple but elevated dishes such as chickpeas with feta and mint, tomato and zucchini fritters, and a fantastic selection of cheeses from all over Greece. The pappardelle with kavourmas (cured pork) was jaw-droppingly delicious! Do yourself a favor, and make the trek out this way ... take the metro to Kerameikos, then walk or grab a cab for under five Euros. You’ll be glad you did. Ask about the daily specials and always book ahead (in warmer weather, ask for a table outside on Avdi Square).

You can’t beat this - a delicious, freshly caught seafood dinner on the edge of the Aegean Sea. Sunset Taverna is located in Ammoudi, at the base of the cliffs in Oia, Santorini - dramatic scenery for simple, rustic, delicious food. From the castle in Oia, enjoy a leisurely, winding walk down to the marina (or take a car down the coastal road). Feast on lobster spaghetti, fresh grilled seafood, baked feta, stuffed eggplant, Fisherman’s Salad. Hike back up to Oia under the clear, starry night.

You can’t miss the Parthenon, the majestic ruin towering above Athens. Originally painted in vivid hues, this feat of architecture, engineering, and artistry is still as awe-inspiring as it was almost 2,500 years ago. Le Corbusier, pioneer of modernism, called it the most “ruthlessly flawless” monument in the world. Hold on to your admission ticket: It’s valid for several other archaeological sites on the slopes surrounding the Acropolis, including the Agora and theater of Dionysus.

Santorini, Greece is an unquestionably beautiful island, but you can take the island experience up a notch, from beautiful to breathtaking, by hiking the ancient footpath from Thira to Oia. Start just before sunrise and meander the ancient dirt and cobblestone path, which is perfectly nestled at the cliffs edge, providing breathtaking views of the caldera. I set out on this path alone for a 4 hour hike, not too sure of what I would find along the way. Way up high, above the sea, away from the island crowds, as if walking through the clouds, I experienced the true beauty of the island- obvious natural beauty that surrounds you in every direction, but an ancient, deeply rooted beauty that can only be found in the silence, in the white washed churches scattered along the path, in the sun-smoothed cobblestone of the path ... in the clouds. Don’t forget layered clothes as once the sun rises the temperature does as well, comfortable walking shoes, bottled water & a camera!

Just 10 miles from Corfu Town, you’ll find Glyfada Beach. With its long stretch of white coastline, you may even opt to stay here a night or two. The entire area is covered in cafes, hotels, restaurants, and nightlife options.

Exarcheia is the most unique neighborhood in Athens, by far. It’s not for everyone. It’s gritty, graffiti-laden, and crawling with punk rock kids who are far more harmless than they appear.


But behind its rough exterior you’ll find a dozen bookshops, tiny cafes where old men sit sipping Greek coffee, and an onslaught of art exhibits with political undertones. The neighborhood’s cultural identity is diverse: you can smoke hookah with Syrians or you can dine with the artsy Greeks. Embrace every second of it.