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Your guide on what to see, where to eat, and which hotels to book in the relaxed, north of Bali.

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Overview

Wandering Mixologist: Scott Beattie in Bali

There’s no one perfect way to take a trip to Bali. On one visit you might decide to spend more time exploring ways to explore your inner self through yoga or taking a ritual bath at Tirta Empul and while exploring the sacred spaces at Pura Besakih. On another? You might be all about going big mountain biking and photographing the rice paddies and terraces. Or, perhaps, all of the above on every trip? From the beaches of South Bali to the cool hills of Baturiti and the cultural hotspot of Ubud, options abound.

Nestled in the jungle near the center of Ubud, Komaneka at Bisma is a minimalist boutique hotel that celebrates Balinese artistic expression. Local artisans made most of the wooden objects and furnishings in the suites and villas, which emphasize rich woods, cool marbles, and floor-to-ceiling glass walls that look out at emerald rain forests. Daily deliveries of fruit, flowers, and cookies make guests feel like family, but high-tech conveniences such as in-room Apple TVs help them stay connected with loved ones back home. The Komaneka Gallery at the Monkey Forest property showcases one of the world’s largest collections of art from the archipelago; Bisma guests can arrange a tour, which is included in the price of their stay. You can also stay on site and choose from a lineup of activities, including rice paddy cycling tours and wood-carving lessons.

Translated as “beautiful bamboo,” Bambu Indah is the passion project of jewelry designers John and Cynthia Hardy. The couple—Canadian and American expats living in Bali for more than 30 years—bought 11 teakwood bridal houses in 2005, then moved them 15 minutes west of Ubud Village before restoring and individually decorating them for visiting guests. Today, the Sayan Ridge residences are surrounded by cutting-edge bamboo dining and lounging structures, an organic permaculture garden, swimming holes inhabited by fish and frogs, and flat green rice paddies. Daughter Elora Hardy is responsible for some of the bamboo architecture and furnishings, while son Orin tends to the edible gardens; spiritual ceremonies, tours, and artisan-led courses involve local friends. Though the decor is heavy on traditional textiles and beautiful objects from around the world, they combine with whimsical surprises, like a boat-shaped treehouse 30 feet in the sky to a rope swing that drops guests into the natural rock pool.

It’s quite a hike to Lempuyang temple, which sits at the summit of Mount Lempuyang, 3,855 feet above sea level, but it’s worth every one of those thousand(ish) steps. Time your trip to arrive at sunrise, when the view of Mount Agung to the north is at its most stunning and the air is still cool. You might even find you’re alone for most of the hike, a rare occurrence in busy Bali. Remember to be respectful and wear a sarong and sash even while climbing. (Women are asked not to visit this or any other Balinese temple while menstruating.) Lempuyang is about 2 1/2 hours from Ubud by car, but close to Amed, a sleepy coastal town with plenty of places to eat and stay.

Spending an early morning with our family in the monkey forest was a nice way to avoid the crowds, and have fun observing the monkeys. We enjoyed exploring this amazing nature reserve and shoot some family pictures given the lovely morning light.

At the top of the Campuhan ridge is a perfectly located spa and cafe called Karsa where at the end of a trek up the ridge you can have a drink, a massage, and even a little nap. This is not the most luxurious spa in Bali, but the staff are lovely and the view is absolutely breathtaking. If you don’t want to get sweaty walking up the ridge before you go to the spa you can also drive up, or even better get a driver to drop you at the top so you can have your treatment and then walk back down into Ubud. There is a helpful map of the ridge walk and spa on Karsa’s website: www.karsaspa.com

Just South of Ubud in the village of Singakerta are some of the most talented wood carvers on the island of Bali. In this village in the myriad of carving workshops you can buy everything from tiny detailed dancers to full sized Komodo dragons. The skill of carving is generally passed down the male side of the family, but women are also involved in the smoothing and polishing of the carvings and you’ll probably meet them sitting outside chatting while they work. Many of the shops sell basic souvenir style carvings, which are generally a bit cheesy, but there are also more original pieces lurking in the background as well. Many of the carvers will give half day lessons if you ask, so don’t be shy to learn a little while you’re there as well.