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The torrent of Anglo eateries that have popped up across Paris in recent years can largely be attributed to the searing success of Rose Bakery. I had my doubts years ago when I first heard about the internationally-staffed organic canteen - how good could English food be, really? Expensive though it may be, it’s one of my favorite places to go for warm cheese scones, fresh vegetable and a variety of cakes suitable for breakfast or afternoon tea. Rose began in London, hopped over to Paris on rue des Martyrs, expanded to the Marais, settled into a 3rd location within La Maison Rouge foundation in the 12th and most recently took over a 2nd floor corner of the chic department store Le Bon Marché. And that’s saying nothing of their international locations. Its appeal was virtually immediate and RB quickly established itself as the spot among hipsters, artists, celebrities (the likes of Natalie Portman and Julie Delpy, who I spotted last year) and tourists for organic, English fare. They open early, excel at pancakes and healthy veggie options and sell a number of British products to-go. Other establishments may have come onto the scene but Rose is a breakfast mainstay.

In the middle of a metropolitan area of twenty million, Seoul’s historic Bukchon neighborhood has kept a traditional village feel. “Hanok"—traditional courtyard houses, with upswept tile roofs and latticed sliding doors—line the hilly streets. Some of them have been opened as small guesthouses. After a trans-Pacific flight, and then a bus ride into the city (from the new airport, built on reclaimed land in the Yellow Sea), I walked a few blocks up narrow lanes and through a wooden gate. I felt as if I’d stepped back into the Korean countryside of a century ago. A rooster and a rabbit shared the courtyard, filled with hydrangeas and herbs. A persimmon tree towered overhead. My room had sliding papered doors; a simple low bed and table; no TV...but free Wi-Fi! The friendly owner, whose family lives in one wing of the house, showed me the hot water machine where I could make instant ginseng tea and “ko-pi” (coffee). Not all hanok lodgings are so spartan. Behind the main courtyard of this house, a “sarang-chae” is also available—it’s like a mini-house (or casita), with its own private garden: rustic luxury. While staying here, I met an Israeli man and his Japanese wife on their way back to the Middle East, as well as a couple of professors of Indian languages from Seattle on their way to New Delhi. Bukchon is becoming more widely known as one of Asia’s urban gems. (For more information: http://www.seoul110.com/html_en/1.html)

Epic might be an understated description for this collection of thatched-roof bungalows built on stilts over the crystalline waters of the Bora Bora lagoon. This luxury resort is nestled in the dreamiest of settings—wooden walkways link palm-dotted islets fringed with white sand, while the craggy green peaks of Mount Otemanu loom in the distance. Guests can alternate between the beach and the infinity pool, lined with oversized cabanas, or sample activities like stand-up-paddleboard yoga, shark feeding, and snorkeling with the resident marine biologist. Also on offer is a luxurious spa, offering an extensive menu of treatments based on native ingredients like monoï and vanilla. As for the bungalows, Polynesian touches pepper the chic, honey-hued interiors, while indulgent soaking tubs sit beneath shuttered picture windows that open onto the sea. Large decks with swoon-worthy views have stepladders down to the water—a good way to test out the provided snorkeling gear. Airy beachfront villas are also available for those who prefer to stay on land.

Occupying a 1927 firehouse that was functioning until 1980, this nine-room hotel from the team behind Los Feliz’s Hotel Covell heralds a new era for downtown L.A.’s warehouse-cum-arts-district. The neighborhood’s first boutique hotel, the Firehouse boasts several original details, from concrete floors and exposed wood-truss ceilings to pressed-tin panels and niches originally built to hold statuettes of the Virgin Mary that were intended to protect firefighters. Even the massive red doors that once ushered in fire engines are still intact, though today they open to a light-filled ground floor that houses a café, bar, and restaurant led by chef Ashley Abodeely and pastry chef Rose Lawrence. Also on the ground floor is a retail shop with a curated selection of wares created exclusively for the hotel by L.A.-based designers, including robes and striped tote bags by Clare V, bandanas and pillowcases by Block Shop, apparel by culinary brand Hedley & Bennett, serving pieces by ceramicist Robert Siegel, and furniture from ETC.etera.

Much like when it picked then-up-and-coming Shoreditch for its first London hotel, The Hoxton brand put its Paris outpost in the heart of the 2nd Arrondissement, a booming neighborhood thanks to the arrival of several millennial-focused start-ups and tech firms. The 18th-century building’s position is also convenient for exploring the city, as attractions like the Louvre, the Marais, and Notre-Dame are a pleasant walk away. Back at home base, you’ll find eclectic interiors courtesy of the Soho House team, with original architectural details like spiral staircases and mosaic floors sharing space with vibrant floral wallpaper, mid-century-inspired furnishings, and hand-picked contemporary artwork. It’s all in keeping with The Hoxton’s emphasis on shared social spaces, so along with the comfy lobby lounges, you’ll find guests hanging out in the Rivié brasserie (which serves all-day menus of French fare and comfort food classics in both indoor and courtyard areas) and the cozy Jacques Bar (where Moroccan influences show up in the décor and the drinks list).

Situated in the center of the USA’s largest Japantown, this Joie de Vivre Hotel unveiled a $32 million renovation in May 2018. While the property’s historic exterior hasn’t been changed—it was once a 1960s Community Center and the former Japanese Consulate—the interiors have been redone by Brooklyn-based MARKZEFF Design with custom leather furniture, shibori accents, and contemporary Japanese art. Each of the 13 new Garden Suites face the Japanese zen garden that includes a koi pond, firepit, and a custom Godzilla mural by San Francisco-based artists Yukako Ezoe and Naoki Onodera of Bahama Kangaroo. At the center of the renovation is the living-room like lobby decorated with mid-century couches and lit with vintage factory pendants. The seasonal cocktail menu at the lobby bar focuses on Japanese whiskey and sake, while the bar menu includes Japanese-inspired bites like shishito peppers and chicken katsu sliders. There are happy hour specials every weekday from 4 to 6 p.m. and every Monday between 5 and 6 p.m. the bar hosts a vinyl hour where you can pick a record to play from the hotel’s collection of classics. For wellness-minded travelers, the new 3,000-square-foot fitness center located one level below the lobby looks out onto an open-air tea garden and features a yoga room and a Peloton bike (guests also have complimentary access to the nearby Kabuki Springs & Spa communal baths).

Opened in 2012 in the Palmerie neighborhood, surrounded by views of the Djebilet Hills and Atlas Mountains, this stunning resort feels miles away from the world—though complimentary shuttles whisk guests to the town center in less than 25 minutes. The popularity with the glam crowd and the variety of super-sized accommodations also help make it feel like an upscale residential enclave. Choose between 41 chic rooms, suites, villas, and “palaces,” all connected by pathways that wind under Moorish arches, through gardens, and over flower-filled ponds; even the entry-level Deluxe Rooms offer plenty of space, with oversized bathrooms, fireplaces, outdoor seating, and a large heated plunge pool, while the three kinds of Suites, multi-bedroom Villas, and three private residence Palaces (with three or four bedrooms each) offer other perks like full-sized swimming pools, kitchens, and more outdoor living areas. Enjoy breakfast and dinner at the French-Moroccan Le Namaskar, lunch at La Table in the gardens, tea at Espace T, and drinks at a variety of bars, including the rooftop Nomad Bar, where bubbles are served to DJ-spun tunes and endless views. (The decadent brunch, served on the lawn with fluffy pillows as seats, is popular with locals, so be sure to make a reservation.) Though every room has a private pool for a dip, there’s also a main one ringed by loungers, as well as other soaking spots—and a full menu of treatments—at the lantern-lit spa.

Philippe Starck’s design firm, Yoo, transformed an 1872 dowager hotel into the 63-room Hotel Sans Souci Wien. Expect oversize Starck and Arne Jacobsen furnishings, four-poster beds, parquet floors, pillows made with Fornasetti fabrics, and pieces from the owner’s art collection (Picassos among them) that contrast with a soft color scheme. Downstairs in the spa, you’ll find a true Viennese rarity: a 65-foot indoor pool.

The plaza of Place Seffarine, dominated by the entrance to the al-Qarawiyin Library and a sturdy old tree, is one of the most pleasing areas in Fes. As you approach, you’ll hear the sound of the copper beaters tap, tap, tapping away. It’s well worth perusing the stalls to find high-quality cookware to take home, such as pixie pans for boiling milk for your coffee, copper tagines and teapots, and prettily etched bowls for use in the hammam. Stop at the café for seriously strong coffee and to watch the world go by, or scoot around the corner onto Derb Chouara for hot, sweet mint tea spiked with various other healing herbs at a hole-in-the-wall where you’ll rub shoulders with local craftspeople taking a break from their labors.

If you like tea, then you must make a pilgrimage to Mariage Fréres, which has been open since 1854. They sell the most amazing teas (my favorites are Marco Polo and French Breakfast) along with teapots, cups, and tea paraphernalia. I recommend staying for a delicious pickmeup in their beautiful tearoom.

I don’t know whether it was the early morning fog, the rolling hills surrounding the vineyard, or the grapes themselves that made me do a double-take: Was I really in Chile’s Colchagua Valley, or was I back in California’s Sonoma Valley? With its intoxicating location and old world charm, Casa Silva (the colonial-style inn that sits in the midst of the family vineyard) has the best of both. It’s a place to relax, tour the surrounding vineyards, and – naturally -- drink their own varietals (especially the Sauvignon Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, and Petit Verdot). With only seven rooms, Casa Silva sits somewhere between a B&B and a guest house, with shabby chic rooms that are a throwback to Chile’s colonial era. We snagged room no. 4, with high ceilings and a comfy four-poster bed as well as an oversized bathroom. While the inn itself is special, the restaurant is worth a visit on its own. It has a clubhouse feel, overlooking the family polo field, but with unique and breathtaking views of the Andes. Hotel guests can take a leisurely 20-minute walk through the vineyard to the restaurant, which features Chilean specialties like conger eel, queso fresco, and tuna ceviche in one of the most dramatic settings I’ve ever enjoyed. (And don’t pass up the mote con huesillos, aka “wheat berry peach dessert.”) Finally, not to be missed: the tour of Vina Casa Silva, which houses one of Chile’s most up-to-date wine facilities and the family’s collection of perfectly restored antique cars.

Driving down an old dusty dirt road near Vila Verde da Raia in the area of Tras-os-Montes in northern Portugal I could imagine the area in the 19th or 20th century.The region probably hasn’t changed very much. I have seen pictures of this road from the 1940’s and I can’t see any difference. The road was not paved then and still isn’t. There are no modern homes or strip malls. I loved the natural vegetation and the peaceful vista. After following the road for about 10 minutes, it curved to the right.There were huge sycamore trees on both sides of the road leading into a tiny tucked away village that dates back about 1,000 years or so. The village of Vilarinho had a small plaza and a well. There was a post office on one side of the square, a beautifully restored church ( I wished that I could have seen the original), and many whitewashed granite and concrete homes. I saw that most homes featured modernized interiors. Past the church was the cemetery and large fields of many crops. At first, the residents were very curious but warmed up and became very friendly offering stories of the village, the farming, and tales of the relatives buried in the cemetery. As I walked the village and farm grounds they kept their eyes on this “stranger”, but they were very happy when I expressed such interest in their lives, homes, and their lovely village. A side trip is always a travel bonus and is one of the rewards of going off on your own to mix with the locals.

“Founded in 1890, Wang is the best place to experience tea culture in Taiwan. It’s in an elegant building that has red wallpaper and an old-timey Oriental atmosphere. Order a green tea and enjoy the live performances of nanguan, a type of traditional Chinese music.” —KK Yeh

This appeared in the November/December 2017 issue.

The moment the snow melts, young Torontonians begin their annual spring migration to Trinity Bellwoods Park. The hippest park in town, Bellwoods stretches from the shopper’s paradise of Queen West up to central Dundas Street. On a summer’s day, sun-and-fun seekers spread out on beach blankets to watch the action: at the dog run, on the tennis courts, in the kiddie pool, and even closer, on the adjacent blankets. After dark, head to nearby Bellwoods Brewery for a pint.

Sucré opened a couple of years after Katrina swept through a bustling stretch of Magazine Street not far from the Garden District. It quickly established itself as the city’s premier destination for chocolates, macarons, gelato, and, well… basically anything with sugar. The original shop is bright and modern rather than cluttered and fussy, and the intricately decorated confections are neatly housed in chilled cases, like jewels in a vitrine. But there’s nothing precious about the tastes here—it’s all big, bold flavors. If you’re here around Mardi Gras season, ask about the seasonal king cake, all lustrous and gilded. Sucré also recently opened a French Quarter outpost with an upstairs tearoom.