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Designer Blake Simpson crafted Mojave Sands over nearly a decade, and his detail-oriented vision is evident everywhere, from the perforated metal fencing to the hand-sculpted black walnut bed frames. Amenities are slim, but what the motel lacks in room service it makes up for in sheer style. (Rooms include typewriters and solid record collections.)


This appeared in the October 2015 issue.

The system of canals and chinampas (cultivated artificial islands fashioned from the area’s swampy soils) that has survived in the far-south neighborhood known as Xochilmilco once stretched all the way to the Centro. To this day, the community is known for its plant nurseries and vegetable gardens. These ancient landscapes now contribute to what has become one of the most singular pleasure gardens in the world, where visitors hire “gondoliers” to propel boats known as trajineras as they sail these channels in the company of floating mariachis and food vendors, partying teens, and extended families out for a picnic lunch. Since a tour is usually a four-hour-plus investment (it flies by), ask your oarsman to take you to Xochimilco’s more-rural precincts, where you’ll enjoy marvelous quiet, far from the madding crowd, in the company of cranes, curs, and picturesque cornfields.

The Culinary Institute of America opened in the former Copia building in 2017, and, in doing so, resuscitated a vision of a foodie attraction in downtown Napa that celebrates the valley’s long and colorful epicurean history. The facility, originally built by the Mondavi family as a food and wine center, now operates as a cooking school and gastrohub, complete with classes, tasting experiences, panel discussions, and art collections. There’s also a restaurant where visitors can dine on food prepared by CIA student chefs-in-training, and a store that rivals Sur La Table for its selection of kitchenware. In spring and summer, be sure to stroll the culinary gardens, which are so large they stretch across First Street.

With the islands’ high unemployment and a general lack of education and employment opportunities, the purchase of souvenirs is a great way to support and show gratitude to local communities. In addition to the Elefa Handicraft Shops, dotted around Majuro are several souvenir stores, which usually stock beautiful hand-woven goods. Look for navigational stick charts, iep keke (baskets), woven Kili bags (a favorite style of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis), and necklaces and crown-like headbands, or wuts, made from shells. Note that bargaining over prices is often considered insulting.

The longest lines in the city form every day at Café Medina, a haven of Mediterranean-inspired breakfast, lunch, and weekend brunch dishes in the Library District. The decor here feels like a minimalist version of 1920s Paris, with aged walls, mismatched light fixtures, and a mosaic entranceway. Equally charming, the eclectic bistro fare ranges from pistachio-rosewater Belgian waffles to halloumi couscous and a harissa burger, spiked with preserved lemon and tucked into a pita with baba ghanoush and two fried eggs. Don’t miss the blistered flatbread, ideally paired with the honey-black-pepper mascarpone side. And finish with a lavender latte, a house-made turmeric soda, or a superb craft cocktail. If you don’t want to wait, skirt the crowds by visiting Tuesdays or Wednesdays for lunch, or arriving at 2 p.m. (an hour before last call).

Most travelers to Istanbul will make a bee line to photograph the blue hues of the hand-painted tiles that give the Blue Mosque its name. Though, for many locals one of the more intriguing mosques to visit is Fatih Mosque, located atop the highest hill of the city. Fatih Mosque is worth a visit for many reasons. Christendom’s Church of the Holy Apostles once stood here for 11 centuries during the reign of the Byzantines. Commissioned in the fourth century by Constantine the Great and reconstructed by Emperor Justinian 200 years later, the revered basilica housed the sarcophagi of the emperors and their consorts, alongside the relics of saints Andrew, Luke, Timothy, John Chrysostom and Gregory the Theologian. The Church of the Holy Apostles was second only in size and importance to Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya). Whilst the latter is now the top tourist attraction in the city, the Church of the Holy Apostles succumbed to invasions by the Crusaders and Ottomans. When Fatih Sultan Mehmet II (otherwise known as, Fatih the Conqueror) successfully invaded Constantinople in 1453 he ordered the demolition of the dilapidated church to make way for the first Imperial mosque to be built under Ottoman rule. The first Fatih Mosque was completed in 1463, however, an earthquake in 1766 saw the mosque virtually destroyed. For this reason today’s structure dates back to 1771 and features elements of the legendary Imperial Ottoman architectural style fused with elegant Baroque designs of the 18th century. One of the finest examples of the latter can be seen in Fatih the Conqueror’s türbe (tomb), located in the grounds of the mosque. Visits to the mosque are best combined with the neighborhood’s weekly Wednesday street market.

While many Italian hotels rest on the country’s historic laurels by harking back to bygone eras, from the opulence of the Renaissance to the sleek design heaven of the 1960s, the Meliá Génova—itself an art deco icon—is confident enough to stride straight into contemporary decor. Originally a steel manufacturer’s headquarters, long known as the luxe Bentley Hotel, its geometric lines and burnished metals evoke midcentury styles. But the hotel is undeniably modern and understated, with its bright and airy rooms, designer furnishings, abstract artwork, and luxurious touches like hot tubs on balconies. The serene, Zen-inspired subterranean pool and spa area demonstrates the Meliá’s fearlessness in breaking from Italian Riviera traditions, a fact only reinforced by the sultry restaurant and bar, which serves Spanish, French, and Greek cuisine—near heresy in a country that prides itself on its excellent food. But the bets have paid off: not only does the Meliá attract glamorous out-of-towners, but even the locals know it’s one of the hottest spots in town, as evidenced by the lively scene found in the bar each night.

Jean-Michel Cousteau and family have created an award-winning, five-star resort on the island of Vanua Levu, in Fiji. No phones, no wi-fi and no worries at this casual, luxurious resort. The thatched “bures” are private rooms and suiteswith views of the ocean or gardens. “The Villa” is the ultimate in privacy and island-style luxury with a private infinity pool, Jacuzzi tub, your own waterfall and outdoor shower. If you are familiar with the Cousteau family and the work Jean-Michel, and his father ocean conservationist and scientist Jacques Cousteau have done, you will be happy to know that the resort continues their work to preserve ocean life and teach people to co-exist with the flora and fauna of earth. Recycling, earth-friendly lighting and growing their own food for the kitchen along with ocean activities that promote learning and understanding of our world are key features. If you are a diver, you are in true paradise here. The resort provides access to the best dive sites in Fiji and the South Pacific. The Jean-Michel Cousteau Dive Centre is located just minutes away from a host of exciting dive sites. Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort’s restaurant offers a diverse cuisine, using only sustainable fish and local products. You’ll have an extraordinary ocean views from your table. If you brought the children, they can attend the complementary Bula Club at the resort. Glass-bottom boat excursions with the resort’s full-time Fijian naturalist/marine biologist Johnny Singh is a highlight. Children under the age of five have their own nanny assigned to them included in the accommodation. Website www.fijiresort.com

Cirque du Soleil’s only resident troupe outside of Las Vegas and Orlando opened in 2014, kicking off yet another stellar attraction for visitors to Cancun and the Riviera Maya. The colorful 70-minute performance - which has been dubbed JOYÀ - offers an immersive theatrical and culinary experience for the whole family. The name JOYÀ, rooted in the Spanish “joya” meaning jewel or pearl, alludes to a person or event of great value. Through this mesmerizing performance, an alchemist’s granddaughter discovers joy and wisdom by sharing an extraordinary experience in an unlikely place.

What was in the mid-20th-century just an inexpensive area to build warehouses and showrooms along the Trinity River has evolved into a vibrant live/work community that’s home to noted restaurants, trendy hangouts, upscale apartment buildings, and—true to its name—a wide array of design-focused businesses. Whether you’re in the market for a French impressionist painting or an edgy installation, the galleries along Dragon Street have got you covered, while Slocum Street is the place for antiques, decorative pieces, and midcentury furnishings, and Howell Street is a treasure trove of vintage and thrift shops. Enjoy an upscale meal at Oak, a beer at the Meddlesome Moth or Texas Ale Project, a cold treat at Pop Star Handcrafted Popsicles, or a cooking class–meets–dinner party at The Cookery. Keep an eye out for Eagles co-founder Don Henley, who built a private recording studio in the area.

Duck inside this warehouse on Lana Lane for a crash course on the varied Kakaako art scene. An artist collective that spans media and genres, Lana Lane Studios provides space for creative types to collaborate and learn from each other. The artists at work here span a variety of disciplines, from videography to fine art, and styles, from the contemporary to the traditionally and uniquely Hawaiian. Members can do whatever inspires them within their own spaces, and the combined effect makes the warehouse appear like a collage of Hawaiian aesthetics.

Marfa is a place of outstanding artists and makers. One of them–no doubt–is Ginger Griffice. I’ve known Ginger since meeting her at Trans Pecos last year and I’ve been a frequent shopper at her Marfa Brands Store, where she sells her soaps, fun glassware and other neat items. This time, I finally caught her in action, making a brand new batch of her amazing artisanal soaps. Ginger takes much of her olfactory inspiration from the desert that surrounds Marfa. Her natural soaps are made from vegetable and essential oils, and she often adds tea (green, Earl Grey, Lapsang souchon) for added scent, color, and texture. If you’re looking to take a little bit of Marfa back home with you, this is the place.

Fun fact: one of Marfa Brands Soaps, Ranch Road, was specifically created for El Cosmico, to capture ‘the smell of rain, and the free spirit that El Cosmico is all about’.

Opening times are fluid, Marfa style. If Ginger’s store is closed, you can always swing by the ‘Get Go’ grocery, a short block away, and pick up a few bars there.

>>>Warmest thanks to the awesome team at El Cosmico for another unforgettable Trans Pecos Festival of Music and Love–an annual gathering of friends, music, art, camping, sandlot baseball and a night sky full of stars in Marfa, Texas. Love you guys.

Housed in a former 1825 Baptist church, this New American restaurant features a casual-style bistro and fine-dining area devoted to the Slow Food movement. Chef/owner Josh Kroner combines classic French techniques with the flavors of Italy, Asia, and the American Southwest using organic, free-range, locally sourced fare. Come in for the Uncle Vinny’s rigatoni dish; and for families with kids, their acclaimed organic children’s menu.

This cute and friendly shop sells high quality glassware, knitted goods and other local crafts. You can find everything from elf and goblin figurines to home decoration items such as candleholders, clocks and plates—and there’s also a good selection of throws and bedspreads with uniquely Icelandic motifs and styles.

Named for one of Guatemala’s most celebrated artists, the Carlos Mérida MOMA is a gem inside and out: The colonial Renaissance-style building boasts a mahogany ceiling and many works by Mérida in what was once his studio. You can also see the work of other renowned artists, including Manolo Gallardo.