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First opened in 1894, the open-air Folk Museum has some 160 historic buildings, five of them dating from the medieval period, including Gol Stave, a 13th-century shingled wooden church. The buildings, from sod-roofed farmhouses to village shops along a cobbled street, represent rural and town life in Norway. In summer, visitors enjoy demonstrations and historic reenactments of folk life. Indoor exhibits explore the indigenous Sami culture and display folk art, textiles and historic native costumes.

Established in 1837, Nasjonalgalleriet (The National Gallery) houses the country’s largest public collection of paintings, drawings, and sculptures. The focus is mainly on Norwegian art, featuring works by Munch (his perhaps most famous work, The Scream, is on display here), but the museum also displays works by international artists, such as several French Impressionists. There’s also a completely charming café and small gift shop inside. P.S. Nasjonalgalleriet is connected to several other museums and galleries in Oslo (like The Museum of Contemporary Art, The National Museum of Architecture, and The Museum of Decorative Arts and Design) and your entry ticket gives you access to all of them – not a bad deal at all!

Rising out of the surrounding lush, flat landscape are the pretty pastel-colored turrets of the 12th-century Kalmar Castle. In 1397, the Kalmar Union was signed here—a treaty that brought Sweden, Norway and Denmark together under a single monarchy. In 1592, the medieval castle was redesigned and converted to its current Renaissance style. Take a ghost tour through the halls and dungeons, and don’t miss the permanent historic exhibits.

At Zupperia, it’s all about the soup—which makes this local favorite the ideal place to duck into after exploring Bergen on an icy cold day. Launched from humble beginnings, Zupperia is now one of Bergen’s most popular eateries, with four locations across the city. For a taste of Norway, go for the creamy fish soup or the reindeer and mushroom version, known as Rudolph Soup. International flavors are just as popular, including the creamy Thai favorite tom ka gai and the Eastern European–inspired goulash. Service is not the speediest, but the budget-friendly prices more than compensate. If you’re hungrier, a full range of main dishes is also available.

When I stepped into the grand lobby of Québec’s Le Château Montebello, I felt like I was entering Paul Bunyan’s living room. Giant timbers braced a three-story-high ceiling, and a massive fireplace in the center radiated warmth in all directions. After checking in, I joined the guests gathered around the six-sided hearth and sank into a leather club chair. I spent the rest of the day by the fire, sipping hot toddies and napping, as the comfort of the crackling flames sent me and the other fireside dozers snuggling deeper into our cushions. I had come to ski some of the 65,000 acres of wooded backcountry that neighbor the resort, but the château was so welcoming, I found it hard to leave.


Often described as the world’s largest log cabin, the lodge and two other main buildings were constructed in 1930 from 10,000 red cedar logs and 500,000 handmade wooden shingles. The houses and the vast surrounding forests were long owned by the politically prominent Papineau family, and until 1970, the estate remained a private nature retreat for Canada’s upper class. As I walked through the château’s halls, the intricately carved banisters and exposed beams reminded me of the great western lodges in the U.S. national parks—only without any grumpy tourists demanding to know where the animals are.

In the guest rooms, deluxe amenities such as flat-screen TVs and rain-dome showerheads upstaged anything found in Yellowstone or Yosemite. Despite the modern perks, rawhide lampshades and other rustic details helped my suite retain its frontier appeal. When I got up to pull the plaid drapes closed that night, I watched a horse-drawn sleigh pass by, glowing in the moonlight against the dark ribbon of the frozen Ottawa River.

Without fresh snow to ski the next morning, I was left to explore the lodge’s other activities. I opted out of getting scrubbed with maple sugar at the spa or unsuccessfully flirting with French-Canadian women by the fire, and instead devoted the day to learning the inscrutable rules of curling. The château has an indoor ice rink dedicated to the sport, a national favorite that’s best described as a combination of shuffleboard and falling down a lot. My instructor was Henri, a kindly sexagenarian who, like many in Québec’s western Outaouais region, seemed more comfortable speaking French than English. As it turns out, kindly reassurance sounds the same in either language. But as my backside repeatedly hit the ice, Henri’s patient polyglot insistence that I was doing “une belle job” grew progressively less convincing.

After my rough-and-tumble day, I dined in the white-tablecloth Aux Chantignoles restaurant. Québecois cuisine dominates the menu, and I followed a dinner of tender venison osso buco with a slice of Québec’s famously sweet and jiggly sugar pie—think pecan pie sans pecans. Snow fell just in time for me to ski through the nearby forest on my last day. I spent a long afternoon there, gliding among stands of birch, pine, and spruce in the rolling Laurentian Highlands. Now and again, I paused to admire one of the countless frozen lakes, their smooth surfaces dotted with tracks left by moose and white-tailed deer. I skied in the silent wilderness until just after sunset. As the scent of a wood fire began to tickle my nose, I grew eager to cozy up by the hearth again. I turned back toward the château’s stone chimney, its rising plume of smoke signaling for my return.
This appeared in the November/December 2010 issue.

Shopping for unique crafts and other souvenirs is a trip highlight for many travelers, and this art collective, representing 70 local artists, is a special spot. Nordic imagery, such as the northern lights and winter landscapes, figures prominently in many of the works. You’re sure to find a one-of-a-kind gift here, from glass angels to handmade cups.

Located on the second floor of the Fretheim Hotel, Arven has grand views of the mountains and the fjord. The emphasis here is on quality meat and produce sourced from nearby farms. In addition to the à la carte menu, there’s also a buffet that serves an assortment of salads, meat and fish. Expect dishes such as roasted veal served with cabbage, roast parsnip and beer sauce and rhubarb soup with sour cream sorbet.

This imposing monument, by Norwegian sculptor Fritz Røed, commemorates the Battle of Hafrsfjord in 872, which took place here. The three swords, firmly planted into a rocky hill, stand roughly 20 meters high; the largest represents the victorious King Harald Fairhair, the first king to rule over all of Norway.

In Scandinavia, Viking museums are popular stops in many cities and towns, and the hamlet of Borg, 15 minutes by car from Leknes, has an excellent one. The Lofotr Viking Museum is a replica of a chieftain’s longhouse, with artifacts from the excavation of one discovered here in 1983. Period actors who look like Game of Thrones extras recount and sing Viking sagas, while guests drink mead and feast on whale meat and hearty stew. The museum contains the results of archaeologists’ Iron Age research, which is also explained in a number of videos.

Since opening in 1892, the winter park at Holmenkollen has hosted its annual Ski Festival along with many other winter sporting events, including the Olympics. The 60-meter-high Holmenkollbakken ski jumping hill is hard to miss. On the observation platform at the top of the jump, take in the panoramic view of Oslo and the Oslo fjord. Then, go inside the hill to visit the Ski Museum. Opened in 1923, the museum is the oldest of its kind in the world and its permanent exhibitions showcase 4,000 years of ski history.

Unlike most hard-to-navigate Norwegian cities, the streets of downtown Kristiansand form a grid pattern known as kvadraturen. At the northern end lies Posebyen, Kristiansand’s old town, whose interconnected wooden houses occupy fourteen blocks. The best preserved building is the old post office, which dates back to 1695. For a self-guided walking tour, pick up a copy of the Kristiansand Guide from the tourist office at Rådhusgata 18, just a few blocks to the south. The residents who occupy this former commercial area are proud of their homes, so expect well-tended flower boxes and friendly greetings.

Treat yourself in the Paris of the North with a visit to Sweet Heart, located inside a lovely red wooden house in the heart of Tromsø’s main shopping district. For a true taste of Scandinavia, choose salty over sweet and try some black licorice, the house special loved and loathed in equal measure. Those without that acquired taste needn’t fear though, as the shelves are packed with all kinds of chocolates, jellies, and other candies, many beautifully packaged into gift boxes. The store also sells tea, coffee, and ice cream, making it extremely difficult to leave without satisfying any craving you had three times over.

While Aurland was once a hub for traditional shoemaking, the Aurland Shoe Factory is the only surviving company which still makes the Aurland shoe (aka “the original penny loafer”) by hand. Take a tour of the facility—part artisan workshop, part museum—and learn about the history and production of these iconic shoes, said to be inspired by the traditional moccasins of the Iroquois tribe. A pair of these famously durable slip-ons is a unique souvenir that will stand up to walking tours around ports—and far beyond.

Travel back 1,500 years to see how Vikings carried out their everyday lives. The Iron Age Farm is a re-creation of a 350-550 C.E. farmstead—with longhouses and burial mounds—based on excavations conducted by the Museum of Archaeology in the 1960s. Storytellers in traditional attire teach kids how to spin wool and make fires with rudimentary tools, in addition to sharing Viking history.

Get to know the lesser-known heroes of two countries in one trip, taking in the dazzling scenery of southern Norway’s coastal communities alongside the cultural gems of northern Denmark.