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A writer travels to the Horn of Africa to find the source of a global obsession.

Bali’s eclectic dining scene, spanning traditional Balinese fare all the way to raw food culture and even Mexican food, means you’ll never find yourself without options. Sunny spots for pre-beach breakfasts and exotic restaurants for romantic evenings, beach bars and nightclubs, Bali will keep you busy.

A famed food critic follows the legendary xiao long bao on its global route from Taiwan to California.

Amsterdam’s diverse population is reflected in its dining scene. In addition to traditional Dutch food (and its reinterpreted versions), travelers can sample Indonesian food, delicious shawarma, and ramen.

Welcome to Santa Fe’s fabled restorative and healing arts. For centuries, the inflicted and ill have sought healing in the dry climate, natural hot springs, and pristine air. Most wellness centers use scented elements of pinion, sage, and lavender in their treatments. Restorative techniques hail from ancient local remedies, as well as from Thai and Indonesian therapies. Yoga and mediation are here, too.

The second hotel from the jewelry and fashion house of the same name when it opened in 2006, Bulgari Resort Bali is an Italianate stunner sitting 525 feet above sea level on the cliffs of Uluwatu. While the hotel’s sophisticated vibe stays true to the brand’s roots, hand-hewn volcanic rock, Javanese mahogany, carved antiques, and locally made fabrics in the 58 pool villas reflect the heritage of the archipelago.

Asian-European duality is a prominent theme here: One restaurant, Sangkar, focuses on Indonesian fare, while the intimate, dinner-only Il Ristorante – Luca Fantin is a prix fixe journey through coastal Italian cuisine. There’s a working temple at the highest point of the resort that staff use to perform daily rituals; guests can take part in blessing ceremonies here too. Flexible check-in and check-out times, an on-call private yoga instructor, village walks, and butler service are additional gratis perks.

The elevator that descends dramatically down the cliff to Bulgari’s serene beach club is a privilege only for guests, as are lunches at the seafood-celebrating, cliffside-hugging La Spiaggia. The Bulgari Bar is the place to be for sunset hour, when Italian canapés are served alongside the sapphire Indian Ocean. It would be a shame to miss a trip to the spa, where pampering treatments draw from the rituals of Balinese royalty. From $1,300


Related: The 15 Best Luxury Resorts in Bali and the Indonesian Islands

The wax resist dying technique of batik is one of the symbols of Indonesian culture. Although it actually came from Java to Bali with the Majapahit Kingdom in the 14th Century, the Balinese now consider it as much part of their culture as the Javanese. You can find beautiful batiks all over Bali but one of the most impressive batik makers in Bali is Pak Tjok Agung who has a workshop and small shop in his home village of Pejeng near Ubud. This isn’t on the main tourist trail and purposefully so. Pak Tjok uses natural fibers and dyes and local workers to try to support the local community without the need for tourist dollars, which makes Pak Tjok’s textiles sustainable as well as stunning. Pak Tjok’s workshop is about 15 minutes north east of Ubud in the village of Pejeng. www.tjokagung-indigo.com

Bracingly fresh wines, just-picked organic vegetables, and local cheeses are served alongside Indian curries and Indonesian noodles in New Zealand’s increasingly cosmopolitan cities. While touring vineyards, stop for food and wine paired perfectly with stunning landscapes. Wine lists are, as expected, top notch in every part of the country.

Translated as “beautiful bamboo,” Bambu Indah is the regenerative passion project of jewelry designers and husband-wife pair John and Cynthia Hardy. The Canadian and American expats who have lived in Bali for decades bought a collection of teakwood bridal houses in 2005 and moved them 15 minutes west of Ubud Village before restoring and individually decorating them for visiting guests.




Today, the antique residences on Sayan Ridge are surrounded by cutting-edge bamboo houses and tree houses designed by two of the couple’s daughters, including Elora Hardy, as well as organic dining and lounging structures, a permaculture garden, Edenic swimming holes, and green rice paddies. The 11 singular accommodations—filled with vintage furnishings, Indonesian textiles, and local curiosities—are truly one with nature. The resort is filled with whimsical surprises, including a boat-shaped tree house 30 feet in the sky and a rope swing that drops guests into the natural rock pool.





The open-air River Warung is where guests—and day-pass visitors—congregate for three meals a day of organically grown and locally sourced fare. The new-in-2023 Elevator Sunset Bar is another collaboration with the couple’s daughters where arak-spiked cocktails are paired with views across the river valley. On-demand massages are available, as well as early morning walks—more like hikes—throughout the jungle surrounding the resort. From $350

A trip to Bali should never cause stress so, don’t think of it as just having three days there, think of it as a chance to have a perfect weekend. Want to just dive right into the fun? Follow this itinerary for surf school, stunning black sand beaches and poolside cocktails, Friday nights celebrating new friends or old, and lazy strolls through the boutiques of Seminya. Of course, there’s also plenty of Indonesian culture to take in and iconic rice paddies that will make your camera sing. (Save anything you don’t get to for your next trip back. See? No reason to stress.)

Life in Curaçao is a colorful mash-up of cultures. Locals speak a multitude of languages (four is the norm), thanks to its Dutch and Spanish colonial history and the influence of nearby South America. One of the best ways to get to know Curaçao is through its cuisine, a mix of sights, smells and flavors. You can take your pick among casual catch-of-the-day spots and chic beachside dining—for taste that’s uniquely its own among Caribbean islands.

If you didn’t know before you dug into your meal, you might not realize that every item on Sage’s menu is vegan (a nice bonus for parents eating with kids). The jackfruit or tempeh tacos are so good many devoted carnivores choose to get their Mexican food fix here over local nonvegan Mexican joints. Sage also makes excellent vegan burgers, potato flautas, and salads filled with great crunchy textures and pops of flavor. Follow lunch or dinner with a slice of coconut cake or vegan birthday cake ice cream.

Nestled in the jungle near the center of Ubud, Komaneka at Bisma is a minimalist boutique hotel that celebrates Balinese artistic expression. Local artisans made most of the wooden objects and furnishings in the suites and villas, which emphasize rich woods, cool marbles, and floor-to-ceiling glass walls that look out at emerald rain forests. Daily deliveries of fruit, flowers, and cookies make guests feel like family, but high-tech conveniences such as in-room Apple TVs help them stay connected with loved ones back home. The Komaneka Gallery at the Monkey Forest property showcases one of the world’s largest collections of art from the archipelago; Bisma guests can arrange a tour, which is included in the price of their stay. You can also stay on site and choose from a lineup of activities, including rice paddy cycling tours and wood-carving lessons.

On Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, catch a performance of Devdan—Treasure of the Archipelago. The 90-minute show, inspired by Indonesia’s cultural diversity, is a kind of Balinese Cirque du Soleil. It features a fusion of traditional Indonesian dance with modern contemporary dance and aerial acrobatics. While highly entertaining, the show also offers an insightful introduction to the history and diversity of the cultures of Sumatra, Java, Borneo, and Papua.

Just South of Ubud in the village of Singakerta are some of the most talented wood carvers on the island of Bali. In this village in the myriad of carving workshops you can buy everything from tiny detailed dancers to full sized Komodo dragons. The skill of carving is generally passed down the male side of the family, but women are also involved in the smoothing and polishing of the carvings and you’ll probably meet them sitting outside chatting while they work. Many of the shops sell basic souvenir style carvings, which are generally a bit cheesy, but there are also more original pieces lurking in the background as well. Many of the carvers will give half day lessons if you ask, so don’t be shy to learn a little while you’re there as well.