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Feast your eyes upon the Francesinha. What is in this curious looking sandwich, you ask? Heaven. Sausage. Cheese. Port wine. Onions. And a bit more heaven. If you visit Porto - and why wouldn’t you visit the home of Port wine - you’ll come to know the Francesinha. How well you come to know this sammy has a direct correlation to how good of a time you have in this gem of a throwback European town. Restaurants throughout Porto claim that they were the first to invent this sammy or that they were the first to add foi gras or the first to serve it with prawns - none of that matters. All that is important is that you ear more than your fair share of one of the world’s sauciest culinary marvels. And that you do it with a pint of beer, and a glass of port nearby.

I have to say I had my doubts when, in search of a lunch spot during our final day in Marfa, a local shop owner sent us to Fat Lyle’s. I didn’t know what to make of the unique name of the food stand. But I would put my preconceptions aside and give it a try. I am so glad I did. The food was delicious. If I wasn’t stuffed from my order I would have ordered more and more and more. We sampled the Korean Chicken which was so tasty. The chicken makes my mouth water just thinking about it. I got the brussels sprouts with carmelized onions, blue cheese, and french fries. Sounds like a weird concoction but for some reason it works. Make sure you stop here for a bite to eat. I need to go back to Marfa for more.

In the increasingly gentrifying El Raval neighborhood, along the leafy main avenue of Rambla del Raval, a whole host of restaurants, cafés, and bars are popping up. Among them is this intimate bistro from noted Catalan chef Carles Abellán, which takes a refined approach to traditional home cooking without being pretentious. To that end, the narrow dual-level space, a former bodega, is simply decorated with rustic wood furniture, forest-green walls, and a ceramic-tiled, marble-topped bar. The menu is divided into categories of small dishes—From the Sea, From the Mountain, From the Orchard—plus a few versions of classic Spanish stews. Leave room for the homemade desserts: The soft, silky Brie cheesecake is divine. Reservations are essential.

Definitely the coolest restaurant on the block, Model Milk, housed in a former dairy building, does eclectic fine dining in a rustic-hip setting (think exposed brick, and uncovered light bulbs dangling from salvaged wood). There’s nothing stuffy about Chef Justin Leboe’s menu of foie gras with smoked maple, and bacon-like steaks of Broek Acres pig with crushed edamame, apple, fennel, and celery. The best deal is the $35 prix fixe Sunday Supper, a full four-course meal served family style. While the menu varies, it doesn’t stray far from its soul food theme: romaine with chipotle and Stilton cheese, prawn ceviche, braised duck coleslaw, buttermilk fried chicken, plank-grilled mackerel, risotto-like jalapeño-cheddar grits, Mexican green beans, and hot and creamy potatoes. Besides the price tag, the best part is the blueberry shortcake for dessert.

The proprietress, her team, and the Mushroom Stand have become important staples at the Baltimore Farmers’ Market. With a huge following in Baltimore, she is known to many as the “Mushroom Lady” because she sells the most amazing mushroom dishes. The favorite (well, my favorite really) are the mushroom fritters: oyster mushrooms, beer-battered, fried, served over greens with sheep’s cheese, basil, and their special homemade hot sauce (if you like hot sauce, you should ask for a generous helping). Other equally great dishes include the portobello quinoa and portobello sandwiches. The portobellos are marinated and roasted on what looks like a big smoker. All dishes are served with the cheese and hot sauce. A logistical note: the wait can usually be a bit long, but you’ll make friends with fellow mushroom lady groupies in the process. Do a lap around the expansive market and you’ll run into a long line towards the back (not far from the pit beef stand) where people are waiting for their mushroom dishes. You’ll pay first near the fresh mushrooms and you’ll be given a number. Find a table or a parking block and don’t wait to eat. You’ll guaranteed be asked what amazingness you’re eating or bond with fellow Mushroom Stand patrons over the deliciousness.

Take it from a local: If you’re looking to bond with the locals and enjoy some simple fare with lots of taste, drive down to Williche. The family-owned sandwich shop in a street corner in Cabo Rojo is just a block from the town square and a fifteen-minute drive from a couple of beaches.


Williche, a small building with pictures of old Cabo Rojo and slogans proclaiming a love for Puerto Rico, serves you cafeteria-style. It offers juices, different kinds of sandwiches, and milkshakes that are just the right amount of dense. My mom and grandparents started taking me there when I was a kid and I’ve been enjoying their bocadillos ever since. You would expect little (seeing as how they’re basically bread, ham, cheese, onions, tomatoes, and ketchup), but that makes their immense flavor all the more satisfying.


I’ve been living outside of P.R. for more than six years, but every time I come home, I ask my family to stroll down with me by the dominoes-playing older men and to Williche. It’s almost always packed, but I and everyone else know the woman behind the counter (the founder’s daughter). It means we can talk and laugh with her, and get to know anyone else who happens to wander in.


Forget Olive Garden. When you’re in Williche, you’re family.

The line for burgers and fries at Gott’s Roadside (formerly Taylor’s Refresher and don’t you forget it) in St. Helena can be ridiculous in the afternoon, but if you go in the morning, you’ll have your choice of picnic tables—either in front where you can watch the morning traffic funnel into town or on the grassy lawn out back. From the simple egg and cheese to a fried chicken mess nicknamed the Paula Deen, Gott’s may have the best egg sandwich in the Valley (although, granted, there isn’t a lot of competition). Plus, a Trumer Pilsner makes a great breakfast beer.

Most people have heard of the Kuekenhof tulip gardens of the Netherlands, but few know about the even larger Arcen Gardens in the south of the country, near Venlo. This massive, 42 hectare, garden complex is on the grounds of the 17th century Arcen Castle. The gardens begin in a traditional formal style, with roses, hedges and statuary. But it doesn’t end there. As you wander through, you encounter gardens designed to resemble Japan, Italy, Thailand and more. There are woodland gardens and tropical gardens (inside an enormous greenhouse). There is a small on-site zoo featuring ring-tailed lemurs, plenty of children’s activities, mini-golf and a large cafeteria. In fact, you could easily spend an entire day and still not see everything. Arcen opens for the 2013 season on April 26th.

With hundreds of castles and chateaux in Belgium, open to the public, it’s hard to know which ones to visit. The castle of Freÿr, in Wallonia, is a great place to start. This grand building has remained in the same family for 20 generations and one wing is still home to the current owners. Exploring the interior of the castle is a must, as you’ll be visiting some of the same rooms as Louis XIV and the Archduchess Maria-Christina. The best place to take in the scope of the castle and its grand formal gardens, however, is across the river. You’ll need a good GPS or map to find the 2 unmarked lookout points. You’ll be rewarded for your diligence by this spectacular view.

I hate wimpy hamburger buns--you know the kind: pickle juice and grill marks bleed through the sad white carbs...Downtown Flagstaff’s Diablo Burger rejects mushy bread in favor of hearty “db"-branded English muffins. Their beef patties are from just down the road a bit, where the cows are grass-fed, open-range, hormone & antibiotic-free...The cheese--local. Beer on tap? Almost always regional. The potatoes for their Belgian-style fries? From the local “food-shed” too. “Landscape-scale conservation that you can taste,” they say. Savor a beefy taste-of-place on your way to or from the Grand Canyon, or linger a while in this college-ski-town that defies Arizona‘s all-desert reputation. The outdoor seating area boasts a mural that is redolent of Hieronymous Bosch and Picasso. Chew on that at 7,000-ft. above sea-level... (Diablo Burger has also opened a second location a few hours south--down in Tucson...)

Affectionately called the First Lady of Waikiki, this grande dame opened in 1901. Its gracious architecture harks back to the sugar-plantation era and wraps around a courtyard anchored by a massive banyan. Pull up a chair under its spreading branches—or else a seat overlooking the ocean—and enjoy island-inspired fine dining. East meets West here with appetizers like Kona abalone bourguignon, tempura asparagus with Parmesan custards, and twice-cooked octopus with macadamia romesco. Entrée standouts include the miso salmon and Korean-fusion Beach Bim Bop starring fiddlehead ferns, kimchi Brussels sprouts, and Ali’i mushrooms from Hawaiian grower Hamakua. Save room for its tour-de-force finale: A “dessert tree” with small bites of everything from macarons to red-velvet cheesecake.

Hotel Hofgarten is a warm, welcoming establishment housed in one of Lucerne’s oldest manor houses. From the outside, the restaurant looks like a casual pub, but the minute you enter, you sense the elegance housed inside. The space is light and airy. One white-walled dining room has high ceilings, ornate chandeliers, and is flooded with light. The other dining area feels like an upscale greenhouse with floor-to-ceiling windows and a gleaming open kitchen. The chef focuses on fresh ingredients sourced from Lucerne greenmarkets and local cheesemongers. Menu items are seasonal and include favorites such as roasted scallops, porcini ravioli, pumpkin soup, venison, braised veal, poached salmon, and fresh soups and salads. This is a wonderful restaurant if you are seeking lighter, more sophisticated fare in an airy environment while you’re in Lucerne.

Foodies (and those simply interested in local color and a good meal) should head to San Lorenzo and its covered Mercato Centrale. Florence’s main market for edibles is housed in a 19th-century glass-and-iron building. On the ground floor, delis, stands, and butcher counters sell a fantastic array of local fruit and vegetables, cheeses, dried porcini mushrooms, baked goods, balsamic vinegars, and olive oils plus fresh fish, poultry, and meat. Upstairs, a modern food hall has opened: Stalls sell prepared foods and meals for happy and immediate consumption at a central seating area.

While several spots can justifiably claim to serve up the best burger in Berlin (the Bird, Burgermeister, Shiso Burger), there is something effortlessly simple and exquisitely tasty about Tommi’s version that makes it particularly good. The limited menu, handwritten on signs above and to the side of the counter, basically consists of the extra toppings (bacon, avocado, cheese) or sides (fries) you may want with your handmade patty of organic Scottish beef. The burger is flame-grilled and placed between a soft, freshly baked bun filled with crunchy lettuce, tomatoes, and other delicious additions. Despite the American-influenced, casual shacklike interior, this place is actually run by an Icelandic family that has similar outlets in London, Copenhagen, and Reykjavík.

Located in a historic mansion on one of the oldest streets in Oranjestad, Bistro de Suikertuin is hard to miss. The building is painted a bright hue of yellow, reminiscent of the tropical birds that visit its namesake sugar garden, and the front porch features a blackboard with the daily menu. Tables are scattered inside and out, but the pretty garden is the preferred spot for savoring your morning coffee and Aruba’s traditional pancakes. Come lunch, the restaurant is all about salads, wraps, and broodjes (Dutch-style sandwiches with meat and/or cheese on baguettes). Note: Reservations are recommended for afternoon tea service.