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This sleek, ultra-modern spot takes its inspiration from the linear forms of Dutch painter Piet Mondrian. The Gezi Bosphorus offers a chic and thoroughly striking alternative to the city’s usual Ottoman aesthetic. Cozy rooms have a retro feel with smoked oak and glass used to create warm yet light-filled interiors. Floor-to-ceiling windows in the Deluxe Bosphorus rooms have attention-grabbing views of Istanbul’s iconic Bosphorus Strait.

The Gezi Bosphorus’ green credentials set it apart and prove comfort doesn’t have to be sacrificed for sustainability. Proudly practically zero-emission, the hotel reuses water in its garden; recycles all papers, plastics, and metals; and produces hot water from excess air-conditioning system energy, making it one of the city’s few hotels to receive Turkey’s Greening Hotel Certification. Just off Taksim Square, staying here puts guests amid Istanbul’s modern city core, steps from the shopping vortex of İstiklal Caddesi but still only a short hop on public transport to the historic quarter of Sultanahmet.

The Hyatt Centric Levent is a slick city pad that eschews Ottoman finery and instead submerges guests in a zen-inspired interior. The huge rooms are splashed with a palette of soft grays and warm rosewood. They feature Frette linens, custom-programmed iPods, daily fresh flowers, and Bang & Olufsen electronics. Free from flounces and frills, the quiet elegance of the rooms offers a thoroughly urban-luxe experience.

Home to two of the city’s most exclusive nightlife spots, the Hyatt is a destination in and of itself. The warm tones and quirky 20-foot-long tropical fish aquarium lining the bar of the Gold Bar provide a relaxing respite for quiet nightcaps. Business travelers can take care of corporate needs using the 24-hour multilingual secretarial service, the intimate screening room for private films and presentations, plus a series of contemporary-styled meeting rooms.

Leb-i derya is one of those fabulous fancy restaurants perched high above the streets of Beyoğlu with amazing views of the Bosporus, Maiden’s Tower, Asia and old Istanbul’s peninsula. You could walk past the building so many times on its dimly lit street without realizing how magnificent the view from the top is. This light and bright sophisticated rooftop restaurant offers traditional Turkish flavors with a modern twist, as well as gourmet-style international favorites. In summer, management opens the doors to an open-air terrace ideal for sunset cocktails. It really is an iconic city rooftop for special occasions—or for saying good-bye to Istanbul on your last night in the city. Enter off the sloping Kumbaracı Yokuşu (street) which runs off Istiklal street near Tünel. Reservations are advised.

The medieval round Galata Tower built in 1348 has played many roles for Istanbul over the years: A watchtower for Bosphorus trade, an observation deck for spotting fires, the setting of a legendary flight across the Bosphorus, and now a tourist attraction offering 360 degree views of Istanbul. Hands down, it’s the best way to see how the city spreads across its European and Asian sides. Go for sunset, but arrive early to beat the queue.

Çağatay Gülabioğlu’s micro roastery and specialty coffee shop, KronotRop, is located in one of Istanbul’s most hippest neighborhoods. The outlet was a revolutionary initiative in Turkey’s gourmet culinary world, and as such, it set the scene for other third wave coffee roasters in town to blossom. Coffee beans from around the world are imported, roasted onsite, and ground upon order. The beans are brewed from fair-trade, organic, single-origin beans and presented in all styles of caffeine and de-caf concoctions. If you’re missing that favorite cup from home, then KronotRop may have what you’re craving—brewed hot or cold.

Opened in 2017 as the first Fairmont property in Turkey, this 209-room hotel is inside a 41-story luxury high-rise in the Mecidiyeköy business district, close to high-end shopping and dining. Gaze past the hotel’s landscaped gardens to the city and all the way to the Bosphorus from your private balcony—every room and suite has one, along with a 48-inch smart TV, pillow-top mattress, rain shower, Le Labo Rose products, and your choice of tub or traditional Turkish bath (complete with heated pedestal). More Turkish flair—and flavors—are on offer at Aila restaurant and Demlique café, while Stations serves dishes from around the world and the Marble Bar pairs small bites with an international selection of wine. While these Turkish touches can be found throughout the property—most notably at the expansive Willow Stream Spa, with its selection of herbal products and authentic hammam treatments—the hotel has a decidedly contemporary vibe and style, and feels part of today’s buzzing Istanbul. Case in point: the Ukiyo seasonal outdoor infinity pool, envisioned with Instagrammable whimsy by Dutch designer Marcel Wanders.

A multipurpose contemporary art center that opened in November 2011 in the Ottoman Bank building, Salt has a library with thousands of shelves of art publications—the most important, impressive collection in the city.—Sylvia Kouvali

There are two ways to walk up to the Galata Tower from Karakoy Tram Station: One is to follow the pedestrian traffic and ascend an uninviting steep staircase close to the tram way; the other is to take the more picturesque Kamondo (Camondo) steps on Bankalar Caddesi. Neo-Baroque and early Art Nouveau styles were fused here in the 1870s to create this curvaceous thoroughfare up one of Istanbul’s steepest hills. Abraham Salomon Camondo, of the wealthy Sephardic Jewish Camondo family, funded the construction. He inherited the banking and business success of his forefathers and went on to become the prime banker for the Ottoman Empire in the district of Galata where the stairs are located.

Hotel Empress Zoe, owned by American sisters Christina and Ann, is a little oasis nestled on old Istanbul’s most vibrant cobblestone streets. The hotel, just five minutes from the Blue Mosque and Aya Sophia, has 26 rooms featuring authentic Turkish furnishings, folkloric art, and marble hammam-style bathrooms in a setting resonating that of a charming Byzantine fortress. The décor throughout packs tons of character from the front door to the bar and restaurant area, right through to the villas and suites that line a tranquil archeological garden backing onto the stone ruins of the 15th-century Isak Pasha Hammam. Rest in this enchanting courtyard, and you’ll forget you’re even in Istanbul. The hotel also has a small rooftop terrace with views to the Marmara Sea and the minarets of the Sultanahmet area. Access to the rooms are via a spiral staircase, so those with mobility problems may wish to talk to management about their needs before securing bookings. Check their website for room styles, photos and pricing.

There’s no cost attached to one of Istanbul’s most distinctive photo ops, and the only lines are from fishing poles. Cross the historic Golden Horn via the Galata Bridge, where fishermen from every walk of life jostle for space, and tourist restaurants line the lower level (stop in for a drink if you’d like, but the food tends to be overpriced and mediocre). Galata Bridge isn’t beloved for its architecture (fun fact: It is supposedly the bridge for which the card game is named), but rather its views: Topkapı Palace and several domes and minarets in the Old City on one side, and the Galata Tower on the other.

When the sun finally dips behind the minaret skyline and the moon starts to rise, Sultanahmet Park—between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia—brightens up with a colourful lighting display. In summer enjoy the show by savoring a creamy Turkish ice cream (dondurma) by the illuminated fountain and people watch Istanbul‘s international guests from one of the park benches.

A city as ancient as Istanbul has many layers of history, and you’ll have to go below the surface to see the Basilica Cistern, the largest of the underground cisterns. Built in the sixth century for the Byzantine emperor Justinian, the atmospheric reservoir is supported by 336 columns, many of which have been repurposed from other ruins over the centuries. The Medusa-head column bases are a favorite to photograph, along with the carp that swim silently in the dimly lit waters. The cistern is located between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, and the best time to visit is simply whenever the line looks short, especially on a hot summer day—it’s always cooler underground.

Irish bars tend to be a gathering place for local expat communities, and in Istanbul, that role is played by James Joyce—just off Nevizade Street in Beyoğlu. This bar has the typical attributes of a hospitable Irish establishment with its hearty menu, international beers, wooden bar stools and booths, and country-style ambience. James Joyce hosts live music acts every night of the week and telecasts international sporting events on its big screens. Visit here to bump into your fellow countryfolk.

The shops of the Grand Bazaar are often derided as a tourist trap. Yes, you may want to see the historic setting, the common wisdom goes, but when it comes to actually shopping, you’ll get better quality at lower prices outside of the bazaar. There are so many exceptions to this “rule,” however, that it’s hardly worth repeating. One of the bazaar’s gems is Sivalsi Istanbul Yazmacisi at No. 57 on Yaglikçilar, the fabric “street.” The small shop’s shelves are covered with embroidered pieces, ikat-dyed fabrics, and ones with traditional Turkish patterns, from light cottons and silks to heavy wools. In short, you’ll find pretty much whatever Turkish or Middle Eastern fabric you might want, appropriate for everything from upholstery to clothing. The owners, Murat and Necdet Bey, count designer Rifat Ozbek, New York’s ABC Carpet & Home, and interior decorators and architects among their clients, but they still have time for ordinary customers interested in Turkish textiles. Prices are pretty much set but fair, starting at around $25 per square meter and going up to $600 and beyond for hand-embroidered pieces.

Adorned with more than 20,000 blue handcrafted İznik tiles, stained-glass windows, and the golden brushstrokes of a 17th-century calligrapher, the Blue Mosque is the legacy of Sultan Ahmet I (1590–1617). The young sultan audaciously wished to outdo the builders of Hagia Sophia, commissioning six minarets to match the number at Mecca’s Sacred Mosque (which now has seven minarets as a result). Today, this magnificent mosque is a place of worship for thousands who visit from around the world.