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Melbourne’s market culture is obviously very much alive and, in the case of Queen Victoria Market, has been since the 1870s.


Food stalls to try: Börek; Bratwurst Shop & Co.; American Doughnut Kitchen; Gozleme Turkish Café; Le Croissant des Halles; Pizza by Nature; La Cantina; Sushi Kissaten; Pide Bread Bakery; Spanish Donut Van.

This appeared in the May 2014 issue.

Yes, Hauz Khas Village is perhaps most known for its artsy vibe, boutique shops, and trendy restaurants. But before it became a lively commercial district, Hauz Kaus was (and remains) a 13th-century historical complex with a mosque, tombs, and an Islamic seminary. Take a break from the bustle of shopping and dining to explore the sites from Muslim royalty, then spend some time at the charming lake with its swans, ducks, and other wildlife.

Sacher is synonymous with luxury in Vienna. It’s the name of not just the hotel, but also Austria’s most famous cake, the delectable Sacher-Torte. Eduard, son of Sacher-Torte creator Franz Sacher, opened the hotel in 1876, though it was his young widow Anna who really established the property after he died. In 1934, a few years after her death, the Gürtler family took over the hotel—and continues to maintain it to this day.

Notable personalities like John F. Kennedy and Queen Elizabeth II have walked the halls of this Vienna institution. It was also here that John Lennon and Yoko Ono introduced “Bagism” to the press while inside a giant bag, an event chronicled in the Beatles’ Ballad of John and Yoko. The Belle Epoque–influenced rooms are a symbol of elegance and comfort, while the two restaurants, two bars, and illustrious Café Sacher make it possible to enjoy the hotel’s timeless charm without even being a guest. Be sure to try the famous torte—it’s an essential Vienna treat.

With its innumerable acres of grasslands that are perfect for raising cattle, Argentina is not surprisingly known for top-quality leather goods. Murillo Street, in the Villa Crespo neighborhood, is lined with outlets where you can purchase bags, shoes, jackets, and belts at discount prices. For higher-end leather, however, Palermo boutiques are your best bet. Near Plaza Armenia in Palermo Soho, Humawaca showcases stunningly unique handmade purses and accessories. For men’s shoes, belts, and wallets—all of spectacular quality and sure to make any guy a touch more dapper—stop by Apuesto Hombre in Palermo Hollywood.

D&Department, a youthful shop housed in a 13th-century Bukkoji temple, focuses on designer housewares, kitchen goods, and foods. Conceived by Kenmei Nagaoka, a professor at Kyoto University of Art and Design, and his students, the store sells products such as sturdy tea mugs and glass tokkuri (Japanese sake sets), and highlights specialty, small-batch food producers whom they’ve met in person. The result is a special range of sesame seed oils, additive-free pickles, and heirloom misos and soys. D&Department will occasionally include imported products that adhere to the founders’ ethos, such as durable Freitag bags from Switzerland, which are made from recycled truck tarps.

A collaboration between two of Siem Reap‘s most stylish women, French-Cambodians Nathalie Saphon-Ridel and Sirivan Chak, Galerie Cambodge specializes in beautiful fair trade clothes and accessories made in Cambodia to the highest quality of workmanship. The women work closely with designers and artisans to source, design and produce natural, eco-friendly garments, accessories and gifts. Collections change regularly, however, you can expect to find anything from the lightest of cotton shirts and scarves that are ideal for Siem Reap’s sultry weather to sturdy handmade leather sandals that will survive years of temple scrambling. Not everything is made in Cambodia—the women have made a few exceptions, such as authentic Panama hats, direct from the source. Also handy for long days in Siem Reap’s blazing heat.

Located in the Mouraria neighborhood—the birthplace of fado—this restaurant is a prime pick for sampling traditional Portuguese food. The codfish, or bacalhau, is a must here. It is served with plenty of bread to clean your plate.


In the style of a classic tasca (Portuguese tavern), the walls are adorned with blue tiles and many photos, paintings and drawings.

Marrakesh’s spice shops know how to attract custom – colourful pyramids of spices and herbs are proudly displayed outside to entice the shopper. If you want to take home a taste of Morocco, these are the places to come to. Ask for ras el hanout (‘top of the shop’, a special blend of up to several dozen spices) that gives Moroccan cuisine its distinctive twist. Every shop and kitchen has its own particular blend, but cumin, cinnamon, allspice and cloves are all essential ingredients. Moroccan saffron is also an excellent buy. Many spice shops double up as apothecaries. Herbs, bark, mineral and infusions are all offered to cure anything from headaches and skin complaints to impotency – a truly spicy offering.

San Sebastián is a bike friendly town: bike paths (called bidegorris) run through the entire city, and locals gather several times a year to cheer on professional cyclists that pass through in droves. It makes sense, then, that there are several bike shops in town. Miner is one of the oldest, family-owned yet still totally relevant thanks to the newest generation that is at the helm. Everything a modern biker could want: single speeds, Adidas Country kicks, Fuga cargo bags, bells and bike seats in every color and pattern...it’s impossible to enter and not feel inspired, even if you don’t have a bike. Make sure to check out their selection of vintage style jerseys, downstairs.

Watch local artisans weave handmade baskets, hats, and bags from local grasses and palm fronds using traditional methods at the Middle Caicos Co-op. This nonprofit center helps support the local community on Middle Caicos and keeps Caribbean crafting traditions alive. Visitors stopping by the studio, located in Conch Bar, will often find a handful of the co-op’s 60 artists on site, happy to demonstrate their process and answer questions as they work on their pieces. Along with woven items, you’ll also find model sailboats, jewelry, and other handicrafts.

This collection of 5,000-plus bags, purses, and accessories—the largest in the world—spans more than 500 years, from a practical 16th-century goatskin money pouch to a whimsical shoe-shaped purse by contemporary Dutch footwear designer Jan Jansen. Displayed beautifully throughout a grand 17th-century canal house and arranged by time period, the collection includes rare French silk bridal bags from the 1800s, delicate art deco beaded purses, chic 1970s Lucite clutches, and contemporary handbags by luxury brands like Louis Vuitton, Mulberry, Gucci, and Prada. Items owned by the rich and famous are here as well: a Versace evening bag Madonna carried at the Evita premiere; the cat-shaped “Socks” clutch that Judith Leiber designed for Hillary Clinton; and Margaret Thatcher’s iconic gray Asprey handbag, which she referred to as her “weapon.” Don’t miss the café’s renowned afternoon tea, with sweet and savory bites served in the museum’s period rooms.

Wish that your one-stop shopping and dining location had high-concept ice cream, ramen, and New York–style pizza? Look no further than Pine Street Market, Portland’s first modern food hall. Home to some of the city’s best-loved restaurateurs, it counts among its popular food stands Wiz Bang Bar (featuring the nation’s only high-concept soft serve from the folks at Salt & Straw), Bless Your Heart Burger (done Carolina-style, from Toro Bravo’s John Gorham), and OP Wurst (from local wurst-meisters Olympia Provisions). The 10,000-square-foot space in the renovated 1886 Carriage & Baggage Building is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and was the site of the Old Spaghetti Factory until 1981.

Many Buenos Aires visitors don’t realize the city is home to one of the world’s largest Jewish communities; most of the families arrived from Russia and Poland at the turn of the twentieth century. Proudly touting its immigrant cuisine, Mishiguene pays homage to the legacy with a modern take on traditional Jewish comfort foods like meorav yerushalmi (a Jerusalem-style mixed grill), bagels, pastrami, and Ashkenazi fish cakes. To try more than one item, order half-portions of dishes, or opt for the six-course tasting menu that starts off with a cocktail and includes a wine-pairing with each arrival. For a special treat, reserve the chef’s table in the restaurant’s sparkling kitchen.

Tokyu Hands is a quintessential Japanese lifestyle shop designed to make your life more refined, or at least more fun. There are now branches throughout the country, as well as international ones in Taiwan and Singapore, but the Shibuya branch is the largest, with more than 20 floors of merchandise if you include the mezzanine levels. It is a treasure chest of items, practical and not, for home, travel, and garden. The select collection of luggage and bags, many made by Japanese craftsmen, is especially worth perusing. Each floor is themed, organized around subjects such as the kitchen, travel, health and beauty, DIY, and stationery. It’s easy to get lost, as there is so much to see, whether shopping for yourself or for gifts for friends.

The dyeing vats at Chouara—as well as at the city’s other tanneries—are among the Fes medina’s most iconic sights. The ancient craft of tanning and dyeing, in all its visceral authenticity (cow urine and pigeon poop are still key components in the process), plays out much as it always has. Chouara has been around since the 11th century. The dyes used in the tannery pits are natural: Blue comes from indigo; red, from poppy or paprika; yellow, from saffron, pomegranate, or even a mix of turmeric and mimosa flowers. The best vantage point for observation is from one of the roof terraces. Leather shops hawking everything from butter-soft leather babouches (iconic Moroccan backless slippers) and poufs, to copies of designer jackets and handbags. (That Hermès Birkin bag, or a facsimile of it, could finally be yours at a fraction of the price.) Although the guides around here are a tenacious lot, don your best smile, carry a posy of mint to hold beneath your nostrils, and settle in for a long chat with the shopkeepers to learn about fascinating process. Expect prices in the shops to vary wildly—much depends on your haggling prowess. A favorite store is the aptly named La Belle Vue de la Tannerie, off the main drag. The shop has sought out skilled tailors with European know-how to create items of better quality using all Moroccan hides, which results in better leather goods. The tailors can copy a motorcycle jacket for you in three or four hours from goat or lambskin, the softest of the hides.