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A church—or, at least, a small chapel—has stood on the site of the Basilica of Notre-Dame since shortly after Ville-Marie (Montréal’s predecessor) was founded in 1642. The current building, however, dates to 1829 and was constructed in a soaring Gothic Revival style. At the time, that aesthetic choice raised some eyebrows—Gothic designs were associated more with Protestant churches than Roman Catholic ones. (Perhaps the fact that the architect was an Irish-American Protestant didn’t help the situation.) Whatever initial resistance there was evaporated in the face of the beauty of the completed building. In the decades that followed, Gothic became the popular choice for churches in Canada of every denomination in large part because of Montréal’s basilica. In the 1870s, in what was perhaps a case of gilding the lily, the basilica became even more stunning when its interiors were painted in bright colors to resemble Paris‘s Ste-Chapelle.

Experience the tasting room of Gruet Winery, founded by Gilbert Gruet, whose family originally hailed from the Champagne region of France. The stately winery is a perfect venue for serious sipping of the label’s sparkling wines (popular in both New York and California). Grab a bottle or two to go. The affordable Brut Rose pairs well with some charred hatch chili peppers or a thick, meaty green chili cheeseburger.

The Mauna Kea Beach Hotel sits on the Big Island’s Kohala Coast. Beautiful sandy beaches cater to sun worshipers while the proximity to Waimea and Kailua-Kona make it a great place for travelers who seek ocean sports, coffee culture, or horseback riding. After absorbing the sun, snorkeling, and surf, a trip to the beach bar is the perfect place to enjoy a bit of shade while sipping on cold, refreshing, tropical drinks. An evening at the beach bar with a Dirty Hula Girl may be the perfect ending to a day at this beach hotel.


The sweet smell of plumeria floats on gentle trade winds into each guest room at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. When entering the room, you may be surprised that floor-to-ceiling picture windows and a beautiful private lanai (patio) beckon you to step back outside—closer to the rhythmic surf and paradise in nature. In the hotel’s main building, each morning you can wake up to warm accent colors in your room that recall the previous evening’s sunset. Natural light fills the entire space and you can brew a lovely cup of Kona coffee before leaving your room to face the world. A 2009 remodel of the main building rooms along with a 2013 beachfront wing renovation enable guests to unwind in the comfort of updated interiors that still remain true to Laurance S. Rockefeller’s original vision.


Local beach access at the Mauna Kea Resort: If you go early (7:30 a.m.) there are only 40 parking spots open to get to this hidden gem. Locals know that you say “beach access” at the imposing gate for those who want to swim in its clear blue water; check it out in North Kohala. Spectacular white sand beach with some shade trees. The 40 parking spots get filled by 9 a.m. or sooner so go early. It’s also good for boogie boarding.

PropertyThe architecture at Mauna Kea Beach Hotel certainly evokes Laurance S. Rockefeller’s sense of outdoor space with breezy landscaped covered walkways and a sparkling blue tile floor in the lobby that seems to bring the calm waters of Kaunaoa Bay right into the hotel. Another not-to-miss feature on the grounds includes the Collection: a fascinating assortment of Pacific and Asian art. More than 1,600 museum pieces blend into the hotel’s ambiance so well that you will always find new treasures on each visit. Better than a museum, these pieces of history are tangible to guests who want to inspect the stitches in a quilt, photograph the colors in a carving, or feel the texture of embellishments on a statue.


After absorbing the sun, snorkeling, and surf, a trip to the beach bar is the perfect place to enjoy a bit of shade while sipping on cold, refreshing, tropical drinks. An evening at the beach bar with a Dirty Hula Girl may be the perfect ending to a day at this beach hotel.
Vino and Vinyasa (Friday evenings): Follow your sun salutations with sauvignon blanc and your planks with pinot noir at this weekly class-slash-happy hour held ocean-side on Friday evenings. It’s only fitting that the sessions focus on Vinyasa, a yoga style that synchronizes movement with breath, because you’ll want to inhale the salty sea air deeply as you gaze at a fiery Big Island sunset.


Glow Stand-Up Paddling and Canoeing: Kauna’oa Bay’s large plankton population attracts manta rays, and you’ll find yourself gliding alongside them during this nocturnal excursion. Thanks to LED lights carefully strapped on your board, your hour-long jaunt may also include a parrotfish sighting (they’re intrigued by the boards’ shimmery glow.) You can treat stand-up paddle boarding as a workout, or simply stargaze as you float. New paddlers can take an introductory canoe ride while more seasoned guests can explore the Kohala Coast’s caves and coves on a private group charter.

One of the best things about Calgary is the winter playground in the center of town. Canada Olympic Park, on the western edge of the city, features a ski hill, snowboard park, cross-country trails, an Olympic luge track, Canada’s Sports Hall of Fame, and a glass elevator that takes you to the 1988 Winter Olympic’s biggest ski jump, as well as skating facilities and restaurants. It also offers private and group lessons, so you can brush up on your sport where World Cup and Olympic athletes train. Plan a day to hit the slopes, or forget the skis and come explore the park’s less strenuous attractions that celebrate winter.

Wonderful catamarans that you can rent right off the beach.

Michael and I take the lead up a scree-choked stream draining from the Gangjam glacier. Two hours of climbing through talus brings us to ice-blue seracs rising like frozen waveforms from the mottled glacier. An hour further, in the cirque beneath the black wall of Kailash, we begin to sink up to our knees in sun-softened snow. Michael’s altimeter reads 17,500 feet, and above us, the mountain’s north face rises in a 4,000-foot vertical thrust of glazed rock, capped by a treacherous overhanging white cornice. Jaws gone slack, we lift our eyes in awe toward the Throne of Shiva. “How about it, bro? Break out the crampons?” “Jesus! I am not seeing a good route on that wall,” Michael replies, and we both laugh. Kailash remains one of the few legendary mountains on this planet left unclimbed—out of reverence. “And look at that freakin’ cornice!” Michael adds “Nevé ice for sure. Like frost on a windowpane. Won’t hold your points for shit.” There were rumors, nearly a decade ago, that the legendary Austrian mountaineer, Reinhold Messner had surreptitiously planned to bag Kailash, a task which he certainly had the skill and resources to accomplish. But when Messner saw the Precious Snow Mountain for himself, he realized what a desecration it would be to set crampons on its face or boots on its summit. He’s since become a vocal proponent of keeping Kailash off-limits to climbers in perpetuity.

Restoration Hardware, the upscale home-goods store, made its 2015 Gold Coast debut in style, taking over a building that was created in 1914 as a residence for young women studying music, drama, and the visual arts. Architect James Gillam of Backen, Gillam & Kroeger oversaw the redesign of the 70,000-square-foot structure, creating a six-floor showcase for luxury furnishings. It’s also the first Restoration Hardware to include a culinary element: The ground level features the Three Arts Club Café, where guests can enjoy breakfast, lunch, and dinner while surrounded by heritage olive trees and a refurbished historic fountain.

Old school ice cream parlor and soda shop with homemade candy and ice cream since 1921 in the same location in Bucktown. I wish the little jukeboxes on the tables worked but clearly it’s not hampering their business as there’s a line out the door every day, especially in the summer. Margie’s is a small place but perfect for an afternoon sundae dripping with hot fudge and maybe a dozen chocolate dipped cherries to go.

Up in the Andersonville neighborhood, home of many an antique store, Brownstone Antiques holds a primo spot on Clark Street just down the street from the Swedish diner, Svea. It’s more of a junk store than an antique store with a crowded jumble of antique furniture, piles of vintage jewelry, stacks of paintings and odds and ends on every surface. It’s a little dusty and a lot interesting.

English-speaking bibliophiles love Under the Volcano for its cozy, welcoming space, where shelves stretch from floor to ceiling and wall to wall, sagging under the weight of previously read and gently used books. Those that don’t fit on shelves sit in towering stacks on the floor. Don’t expect the kind of boring pulp that tends to get left behind at hostel book exchanges. These are quality reads, including some unexpected and even rare finds.

A leader in Portland’s vegetable-forward movement, Quaintrelle has quietly become one of the city’s best fine-dining choices. All this on a strip of Mississippi Street better known for bar crawls and brunch lines than for seasonal cuisine and killer cocktails. The eclectic American menu rotates based on what’s available and in season. Almost all of the food is local, from the tempura Meyer lemons to the carrot and raisin salad. Meals at Quaintrelle can easily double as a primer on what can be grown in Oregon, including wouldn’t-guess-this-is-local ingredients like quinoa and wasabi.

Perched high above Antigua in the little hamlet of El Hato, Earth Lodge is a true hidden gem. The view says it all: not one, but three volcanoes (Agua, Fuego and Acatenango) spill out beyond the borders of the city below. Whether you stay in the dorm rooms or in a cozy cabin for two, be sure to rise early so as to witness the world slowly awaken. As luck had it, my breakfast avocado smoothie (the lodge is also an avocado farm) was paired with a morning eruption from Fuego, the most tempestuous of the trio. Breathtaking, all around.

From 1903 to 1979, the Panama Canal and an area extending eight kilometers (five miles) beyond it on each side were an unincorporated territory of the United States. The Canal Zone was not only politically but culturally part of America, with towns that could have been plucked out of the Midwest except for the humidity and tropical foliage. Balboa was the administrative capital of the Canal Zone, with American schools, several Protestant churches with services in English and both an Elks Club and a Masonic Lodge. Many of the buildings, like the YMCA and the Panama Canal Administration Building, still stand. After 1979, the Canal was jointly administered by Panama and the United States for 20 years before being returned completely to Panama in 1999.

West Indian flamingos are a common site in the wetlands throughout the Turks and Caicos Islands. One of the best spots to see large flocks of these iconic pink birds is the Flamingo Pond Overlook on North Caicos. The pond itself is surrounded by dense mangroves, so it’s bit of a burden to reach the water’s edge. Bring binoculars or a long camera lens if you hope to get a close look at the birds. The overlook is easy to find, situated along the side of Whitby Highway, the main road along the north side of North Caicos.

Adjacent to Doongalik Studios—the best contemporary-art gallery on the island—this bright cottage carries eclectic jewelry, scarves, bath products, hand-painted glassware and all manner of decorative items (mirrors, picture frames, napkin rings) adorned with shells and coral. Everything in the shop is made by local artisans.