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Just outside Gelgel and Klungkung, which were the seats of the Majapahit Kingdom from the 15th until the second half of the 17th century, is the village of Kamasan. This village was and is still of great cultural importance to the Balinese as it has been the core of Balinese traditional arts for the past 600 years. It is most famous for its painters, who have been painting in the ‘Kamasan style’ for many generations. This style is derived from the Javanese style that came to Bali with the Majapahit Kingdom and is now the basis for all traditional Balinese styles. You can tour the village and chat to the painters in their workshops and also buy directly from them. There are also textile workshops and silversmiths in the village you can visit. Kamasan is about 40 minutes from Ubud or 1 1/2 hours from Kuta or Seminyak.

The wax resist dying technique of batik is one of the symbols of Indonesian culture. Although it actually came from Java to Bali with the Majapahit Kingdom in the 14th Century, the Balinese now consider it as much part of their culture as the Javanese. You can find beautiful batiks all over Bali but one of the most impressive batik makers in Bali is Pak Tjok Agung who has a workshop and small shop in his home village of Pejeng near Ubud. This isn’t on the main tourist trail and purposefully so. Pak Tjok uses natural fibers and dyes and local workers to try to support the local community without the need for tourist dollars, which makes Pak Tjok’s textiles sustainable as well as stunning. Pak Tjok’s workshop is about 15 minutes north east of Ubud in the village of Pejeng. www.tjokagung-indigo.com

One of the top properties in southern Bali, the Four Seasons at Jimbaran Bay is laid out like a Balinese village that tumbles down to the sea. Villas are separated into clusters of 20 to 25 thatched-roof units enclosed by a courtyard wall, making the 156-accommodation property feel more intimate. Modeled after regional homes, they’re adorned with local artwork, traditional textiles, and hand-crafted furniture. Daybeds, private plunge pools, and ocean views are among the amenities, as are offerings such as lavish spa treatments, hands-on cooking classes, and twilight yoga. The resort is even home to a historic temple and shrine, which guests can tour with high priest Aji Ngurah. After a day of exploration or relaxation, there’s no better way to unwind than by enjoying a cocktail on the deck at modern Asian restaurant Sundara, where fire pits warm the air and waves provide the background music.

For every Hindu in Bali, the tooth-filing ceremony (potong gigi in Indonesian or mesangih or mepandes in Balinese) is a rite of passage for teenagers, one of several coming-of-age ceremonies. The filing down of the canine teeth is symbolic of the change from animal to human and also represents the controlling of desire, greed, anger, strong emotion, confusion, and jealousy. The ceremony is family-centric: Participants are considered very vulnerable as their teeth are filed and must therefore be surrounded by family as protection. It’s not just for teens; the Balinese often combine this ritual with marriage rites to save the cost of having two ceremonies. Some villages even hold mass tooth filings for anyone who has not had them done yet. The filing is done by a priest, who stops from time to time so the filed teeth can be checked in the mirror and made straighter or flatter. (When I married my Balinese husband, I had my teeth filed at our wedding ceremony. It was terrifying at first but much more pleasant than a trip to the dentist in the end.)

Translated as “beautiful bamboo,” Bambu Indah is the regenerative passion project of jewelry designers and husband-wife pair John and Cynthia Hardy. The Canadian and American expats who have lived in Bali for decades bought a collection of teakwood bridal houses in 2005 and moved them 15 minutes west of Ubud Village before restoring and individually decorating them for visiting guests.




Today, the antique residences on Sayan Ridge are surrounded by cutting-edge bamboo houses and tree houses designed by two of the couple’s daughters, including Elora Hardy, as well as organic dining and lounging structures, a permaculture garden, Edenic swimming holes, and green rice paddies. The 11 singular accommodations—filled with vintage furnishings, Indonesian textiles, and local curiosities—are truly one with nature. The resort is filled with whimsical surprises, including a boat-shaped tree house 30 feet in the sky and a rope swing that drops guests into the natural rock pool.





The open-air River Warung is where guests—and day-pass visitors—congregate for three meals a day of organically grown and locally sourced fare. The new-in-2023 Elevator Sunset Bar is another collaboration with the couple’s daughters where arak-spiked cocktails are paired with views across the river valley. On-demand massages are available, as well as early morning walks—more like hikes—throughout the jungle surrounding the resort. From $350

Kim Soo Home, a French-inspired boutique shop in Seminyak, carries everything from Indonesian ethnic pieces to handmade textiles and wooden furniture. If you’re looking to pick up something to remind you of your trip to Bali, you’ll find it here—the shop stocks items from makers throughout the archipelago, along with its own unique, locally made designs. It’s difficult to leave the airy and carefully manicured store, but you can decompress for a bit in the stylish adjoining café before you reenter the harsh world outside.

Located in the heart of Orlando’s Little Vietnam district, this casual eatery does Pan-Asian cuisine perfectly, with a spread of affordable, piping-hot dishes inspired by hawker-style street food. It’s hardly a new concept in a city known for great Asian restaurants, but Mamak does it exceptionally well with small plates like beef bulgogi, golden roti canai bread, Indonesian nasi goreng, and a spectacular version of Malaysian char kway teow noodles. Come with a group so you can order a little bit of everything—it’s the kind of place where sharing just two dishes is nothing short of sin.

The temples in Bali, Indonesia are famous for their multi-tiered thatch roofs. This was taken at Pura Taman Ayun in the village of Mengwi. Visitors are not allowed to enter the temples - we could only view from outside the walls. Thankfully the walls aren’t very tall :)

The wild and rugged coastline of Sumba, Indonesia has yet to be discovered by most travelers to Indonesia due to the allure of other popular islands, namely Bali, Java and Lombok. Sumba has yet to be developed and there are only a handful of accommodations spread around this large island catering primarily to surfers seeking the fabled monster waves that break on its reefs. The beaches are long stretches of soft white sand and you will most likely have them to yourself. The villages on the island are very primitive and constructed of timber and tall thatch roofs. Sumba is serviced by air a couple times and week at tiny airstrips in either Waingapu or Waitabula. Cancelations are frequent and I ended up stuck on the island a few days longer than I had anticipated. Sumba feels like you stepped back in time a couple hundred years and it’s a real adventure.

When he sold his jewelry company in 2007, Canadian expat John Hardy and his wife reinvested much of the money into the Green School, an innovative K-12 school in Sibang Kaja, Bali. The curriculum is very experiential—the international and Balinese students learn everything from aquaculture to Balinese puppetry. Named greenest school of 2012 by the U.S. Green Building Council, the school is worth a visit if only to see the far-out architecture. Many of the complex buildings are constructed entirely of bamboo.

Seafood lovers, rejoice! Moana Fish Eatery is a Polynesian-style restaurant in Canggu where you will find the freshest, most incredible fish dishes without any fussy sauces, pretentious names, or unnecessarily complicated sides. The simple grilled mahi-mahi, poke bowls, fish tacos, and amazing coconut king prawn curry are tasty, filling, and well priced for the quality of the fish. There’s also a deliciously refreshing sugarcane juice that you can enjoy in the chilled-out and cozy atmosphere with friends, family, or a date. Some vegetarian dishes are available, but the selection is quite small since most people come for the fish.

Across the river from the Badung Market—Bali’s largest traditional produce and meat market—is the Kumbasari Market (also called Pasar Seni Kumbasari), where you can find craftspeople hawking their wares. Wander among stalls selling batiks, wood carvings, jewelry, paintings, and souvenirs.

This sprawling resort features three luxury properties on one Nusa Dua site: the Mulia, the Mulia Resort, and the top-tier Mulia Villas. Choose a full board or half board package for an all-inclusive experience, complete with butler service (at the Mulia and Mulia Villas) and access to nine different dining venues and bars; there are also beach-level pools—one of them resembling a statue-lined Roman bath—and rows of umbrellas on Bali’s eastern shore. The villas feel like traditional Balinese homes, with indoor-outdoor living rooms that have hydrotherapy pools as well as views of colorful gardens or the Indian Ocean. And the spa is one of the most outrageous wellness temples in Bali, featuring a Finnish wood sauna, aroma steam room, and the region’s only ice fountain.

Founded by a surfer in search of the perfect wave, Nihiwatu is a model of sustainable luxury. The resort’s remote location on the jungle-edged coast of Sumba Island lures travelers looking for true escape and the hedonistic pleasures of private, candlelit dinners in a tree house and hikes to cliff-top spas. But it’s the cultural and community experiences that set Nihiwatu apart from other far-flung hotels. Sumbanese villagers make up 90 percent of the staff, and the resort contributes to the Sumba Foundation, which funds health clinics, water wells, and educational initiatives. Guests can observe island traditions, tour the projects, or volunteer at a school lunch program. From $900. This appeared in the Nov/Dec 2015 issue.

Set smack bang on the beach at Canggu’s Batu Bolong surf spot, Old Man’s is where surfers rinse off the salt and head in for a beer and a bite to eat. The beer garden’s open and airy atmosphere is enhanced by strings of lights and awesome murals by Australian artist Lucas Grogan. You really can’t go wrong at Old Man’s: Prices are affordable, it’s family- and dog-friendly, and the sunset is spectacular. Drop by and see what the hype is about.