Ormos Isternion 842 01, Greece

It’s hard to imagine a more quintessentially Greek setting for a taverna: colorful tables scattered on a jetty flanked by fishing boats and a sandy bay. But the food at Antonia Zarpa and Aris Tatsis’s unpretentious restaurant on Isternia Bay is anything but traditional: baked onions with lemon marmalade, sweet and sticky octopus baked in grape molasses, a “rose” of gray taramosalata dyed with squid ink, a hillock of goat cheese studded with hazelnuts and bee pollen. Every dish is artfully presented, and most ingredients are sourced straight from the restaurant’s organic garden or from local farmers and fishermen. Expensive, but well worth it.

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