Wander a bit west of Chandni Chowk market and just shy of a full sinus awakening and make a left into an unsuspecting, yet unforgettable building. Wind terrace-by-terrace, step-by-step, to the inner sanctum of chili pepper heaven - watching out for men with gaffing hooks dug deep within their shoulder-full of burlap-sacked, red-hot dried chili peppers. Don't forget your handkerchief or your camera! Once inside Asia's largest spice market the views open upon a courtyard of spice heaven. This live/work market hosts views of family life, laundry, children at play, morning routines and chai wallahs. Take a moment to admire the architecture and step out onto one of many miniature balconies and if you are tough enough to press through the last rickety stairway, you'll find yourself atop the market compound and overlooking the Jami Masjid Mosque and a beautiful view of Delhi.