Italy is redefining the concept of beauty sleep. Ferrovia dello Stato (FS), the country’s national railway agency, has expanded its FS Treni Turistici Italiani (Italian tourist trains) lineup with three stunning overnight sleeper routes, connecting Rome with some of the country’s most incredible landscapes—the Dolomites, Puglia, and soon, Piedmont. These vintage-styled trains, steeped in history, offer travelers a chance to sleep through the journey and wake up in gorgeous mountain and sea destinations.
The Espresso trains
Announced in 2023, the Treni Turistici offers three categories of service: Lusso (luxury), Espresso e Storici (express and historic), and Omnibus–Regionali (regional). All three categories are part of a cross-country network that is using older trains on new routes that combine both familiar and lesser-known destinations for day trips and overnight experiences.
The new sleeper trains that travel to vacation hot spots are part of the Espresso lineup, a fleet of refurbished trains from the midcentury through the ’80s and ’90s. The historic trains have been meticulously restored to offer modern comforts while preserving their nostalgic charm. For instance, train enthusiasts will go wild for the renovated FS E444 Tartaruga, an electric locomotive developed in the 1960s with a unique rounded design and streamlined shape.
Part of the charm of the Treni Turistici is the fact that travel takes place in vintage train cars that have been restored.
Courtesy of FS Treni Turistici
The overnight routes
Dreaming of a seaside escape? Some mountain air? Or a lot of barolo? From Rome, you can now embark on overnight Espresso journeys to the serene and striking peaks of the Dolomites, the sun-kissed shores of Puglia, and, starting in October, the rolling hills of Piedmont—just in time for truffle season.
The Espresso Salento train operates from Rome to Lecce, Puglia, through August 31, and the Espresso Cadore, the Rome–Dolomites sleeper route, launched in December and is running through August and will operate again during the forthcoming ski season. The Espresso Langhe Monferrato train will connect Rome to Alba in Italy’s northern Piedmont region overnight beginning in October; it is the latest in Treni Turistici’s Espresso overnight offerings. FS will be launching additional routes to other regions in Italy in the coming months.
Winter sports enthusiasts will want to book the Espresso Cadore as soon as ski season begins in mid-December. The overnighter whisks travelers from Rome to Cortina d’Ampezzo, one of Italy’s most recognized ski resorts and famously depicted in the 1980s spy film For Your Eyes Only. Departing on Friday evenings, the train arrives early Saturday in Calalzo-Pieve di Cadore, which is followed by a dedicated bus transfer to Cortina d’Ampezzo. The train departs back to Rome on Wednesday evenings and arrives in the capital at 7 a.m. the following morning. (Read our full review of the Dolomites Espresso train experience.)
Daytime routes
Not interested in an overnight ride but still want to explore sought-after Italian locales? Treni Turistici offers Espresso day routes, such as the Espresso Riviera, which links Milan to the Riviera, traveling to Nice every Saturday and Sunday through September 1, and trailing along the Italian coast with stops at Varazze, Savona, Albenga, Alassio, Sanremo, Bordighera, and Ventimiglia every Sunday through September 30. The Espresso Versilia runs from Milan to Livorno (with stops including the Cinque Terre and Forte dei Marmi) every Tuesday and Thursday through September 26, and it includes lunch for first-class passengers. Launching this fall is the Espresso Assisi, linking Rome to the medieval Umbrian city every Saturday and Sunday from October 5 through November 30.
A new overnight Espresso train route will bring travelers to Italy’s Piedmont region this fall, an area known for its truffles and vineyards.
Photo by StevanZZ/Shutterstock
The experience
On the evening of the departure (typically Friday nights for weekend and long weekend getaways), passengers are greeted at Roma Termini train station by uniformed FS attendants who welcome them aboard before they follow red carpeted hallways to their cabins. The overnight Espresso trains are composed of updated sleeping cars that offer a range of accommodations, including single- and double-berth sleeper cabins and four-bunk cabins. Each cabin includes amenities such as FS-branded linens, blackout curtains, and a welcome kit with earplugs and slippers. Rooms have interior door locks, air conditioning, volume control for train announcements, and ample overhead storage space, as well as a wash basin. There are no en suite bathrooms, but communal bathrooms are located at the end of each car.
Meals are included in the sleeper cabin price for the overnight trains and in first class for the Espresso Versilia daytime route. The dining cars evoke a vintage vibe with 1980s decor—diner-like four-top tables with red vinyl chairs and white tablecloths. The offerings includes a prix fixe menu (starter, main, and dessert) and à la carte options that highlight regional specialties like tortelloni with porcini mushrooms and saltimbocca alla romana. There’s also a children’s meal available of tomato and basil pasta and grilled chicken breast. Breakfast is a generous affair, featuring everything from cornetti to gluten-free options, ensuring all passengers start their day well-fueled.
Dining on the Espresso trains feels like a throwback to a different era.
Courtesy of Treni Turistici
The price
You can book tickets for any of the Espresso trains online at FS Treni Turistici Italiani. The round-trip cost for exclusive use sleeper cabins for the overnight trains are approximately 300 to 500 euros (US$333 to US$555, based on current conversation rates), depending on the route. Couchettes (the bunked cabins) are approximately 200 (US$222) to 400 euros (US$444), depending on the route and the occupancy. (They are more expensive if you book the entire couchette.) Espresso day trips start at 88 euros (US$98) per person for a second-class round-trip ticket.
