This New Remote Camp in Botswana Is a Wildlife Lover’s Dream

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The Afar take

Many safari goers in Botswana head straight for the famed panhandle in the northwest part of the Okavango Delta, a vast inland waterway that seasonally floods the Kalahari Desert. But the Moremi Game Reserve is one of the country’s more magical corners, blending the crystalline channels of the Okavango with game-rich grasslands and stands of indigenous forest. Here in the 1,500-square-mile wilderness, Tawana is a new camp from Natural Selection, a conservation-minded safari company that operates across three countries in southern Africa. The camp is a rare partnership with Tawana Moremi, paramount chief of the local Batawana tribe, whose grandparents were instrumental in creating the Moremi Game Reserve. It’s the only camp to have been granted access to a 130-acre concession in this virtually unvisited part of the reserve, which means you have Moremi’s unique combination of ecosystems, along with its abundant wildlife, all to yourself. It’s worth spending an afternoon in the small library near the bar to discover more on the history of the Batawana and the impact they have had on conservation in Botswana.

This part of the Moremi doesn’t always deliver that postcard Delta landscape of sinuous flooded channels—you’ll have to visit in the peak flood season between June and August for that—but even on my visit out of season, I loved the grassland setting on the banks of the Gomoti River. The perennial presence of water here means there’s never a shortage of toothy, furry locals to admire.

In design, Tawana takes its cue from the local vernacular and setting, from the stunning spiraled covered walkway at the entrance modeled on the traditional yikuku fish traps used by the local Mbukushu people to the organic palette of tones and textures in the suites and main lodge.

Courtesy of Natural Selection

Who’s it for?

Safari travelers looking for an epic wildlife experience in Botswana. I’m from Cape Town and have been going on safari for decades, and the game viewing here is some of the best I’ve had in Botswana, thanks to the Moremi’s unusual offering of savanna grasslands, forests, and Delta waterways. Families with children over the age of six are allowed.

If it’s your first time in the Okavango Delta, you’ll want to pair Tawana with a camp deeper in the Delta and on a permanent channel, which allows for year-round mokoro (boat) and speedboat safaris. Try North Island Okavango, an intimate four-suite camp that’s also in the Natural Selection collection.

The location

Tawana is set on a 130-acre private concession in the southeastern corner of the Moremi Game Reserve, widely regarded as one of the most prolific areas of Botswana for wildlife. On one drive we were barely out of sight of camp before we had a pack of wild dogs feeding on a buffalo, vultures looking for their share, and a leopard skulking off into the brush. Minutes later we encountered a family of cheetahs and stayed with them until sunset drinks with a soundtrack of sonorous hippos coming out to graze.

The rooms

Tawana’s eight suites are strung along the banks of the Gomoti River. The suites are spacious—around 1,000-square-feet—and spread out enough to ensure you won’t see or hear your neighbors. They’re raised a few feet off the ground for safety, but also so that wildlife can pass through the unfenced camp unhindered day and night.

Courtesy of Natural Selection

Stepping into each suite there’s a real sense of escape, your private haven for a little solitude in between the busy morning and afternoon game activities. Sliding doors are fitted with metal screens so you can keep them latched at night while letting the fresh air and night sounds float in. They give way to a private deck that runs the length of the suite. At one end it morphs into a secluded day bed with a private plunge pool. A lounge area, complete with mini-bar and coffee station, leads into a small study and then a spacious master suite, fitted with air-conditioning and an overhead fan. It gets hot in the summer, but you’ll stay perfectly cool.

The large en suite bathroom features indoor and outdoor showers and delightful decor touches. Look up when you’re in the bath to admire the organic lampshades taking inspiration from the water lilies of the Okavango Delta. Although the Gomoti River is hidden from view during the dry season, it flows year-round and draws constant wildlife, meaning you can cool off in the plunge pool while enjoying, as I did, a passing parade of buffalo, elephant, and antelope.

Of the eight suites, three are configured as family suites with a separate sleeping area for children. However, there are no other dedicated children’s facilities, and you’ll need to keep a close eye on youngsters on the elevated boardwalks.

Courtesy of Natural Selection

The food and drink

Tawana brings a contemporary approach to meals, with dishes served family style and a focus on lighter, fresher cuisine. Think bowls of crisp salads, braised chicken, and couscous. There’s a touch of indulgence on offer too, with a wood-fired pizza oven making for fun-filled lunchtime sessions on the terrace. Come evening, expect tables decked with white tablecloths and flickering lamps beneath the stars. There’s a well-stocked bar, but leave the G&Ts for a moment and ask the dedicated wine steward to walk you through the lodge’s cellar: It’s been expertly stocked with some gems from the South African Winelands.

Staff and service

As the newest addition to Natural Selection’s circuit of “Premier” camps, Tawana has brought in some of the company’s best managers and guides. The result: The safari guides are superb and the service is on point. Executive chef Lungi Mbangi went out of his way to cater for my dietary preferences and brought his infectious energy to the impromptu lunchtime pizza party.

Courtesy of Tawana

Accessibility

Raised boardwalks link the arrival area, communal lodge, and suites, with step-free access to all areas of the lodge except for the firepit (staff are on hand to help here as needed). The suites at Tawana are spread out, so if mobility is a concern, be sure to ask for a room close to the main lodge. Family unit #6 is wheelchair friendly, with space to maneuver within the unit, and has been fitted with bathroom grab rails, a sliding shower head, and a portable seat in the shower.

Wellness

A single-room spa facility offers a compact selection of facial and body treatments, which you can enjoy while overlooking the grassy plains of the Gomoti River. And while walking and jogging around the lodge is not allowed to prevent unexpected wildlife encounters, for those who want to stay fit between game drives there’s a well-equipped gym near the 52-foot lap pool. Guest suites also offer basic fitness equipment, including exercise mats and resistance bands; the private outdoor decks, with views across the grasslands, are ideal for yoga stretches in the cooler morning air.