Portland

Bridge City, Stumptown, Beervana, or the City of Roses—Portland is as eclectic as its nicknames. The four distinct districts all tout a variation on the theme “Keep Portland Weird.” Southwest houses the downtown city core, a bustling blend of high-profile retail, culture, art, and entertainment. Southeast clings to the Willamette River on its gritty edge, softening into quaint neighborhoods offering all levels of lifestyle. North/Northeast, or “NoPo,” is an evolving, ethno-diverse tract of livability dotted with affordable, hip haunts and a cooler-than-thou attitude. Northwest is the upscale sustainability model anchored by the Pearl and slightly adrift from Uptown/23rd. Together these districts deliver a trendsetting cultural crossroad catering to over eight million visitors a year.

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Photo by Elena Kuchko/Unsplash

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Portland?

There’s a reason Portland boasts the highest concentration of craft brewers and distillers on the planet: the rain. Starting in late September, it is a close companion, lasting well into June. That shouldn’t stop you from planning a trip any time of year. Fall boasts colorful scenery and bountiful harvests from local growers. Winter snow is a novel inspiration for intellectual and physical pursuits. Rains relent somewhat in spring, giving way to warmer weather and lingering light. Summer is sensational, with dry, sunny days stretching into glorious evenings perfect for peddling your bike through a happy-hour haze and beyond.

How to get around Portland

Do the 12-mile jaunt from PDX International to downtown on MAX. The $2.50 train ride to the city center takes 40 minutes, providing a great introduction to Portland’s transit environment. The taxi ride takes half the time and runs $40. Amtrak and Greyhound make it easy for West Coasters to drop in.

Skip the car and go by bike, train, tram, streetcar, and bus. A bike gets you everywhere easily, unless you venture into the West Hills for a mile-long uphill slog to the famous Rose Garden. MAX trains are bike-friendly and can enhance your cycling range. You’ll need a car to get up to the mountains, out to wine country, over to the coast, or up the gorge. Some hotels now offer bikes as part of their room package. Bike rentals are plentiful and convenient.

Can’t miss things to do in Portland

Rain or shine, day or night, you can always make the pilgrimage to Powell’s Books. A visit to Powell’s is more than a trip to a bookstore; it’s a literary expedition. The actual need to buy a book is irrelevant. Powell’s is a small city with food, drinks, and entertainment. Oh, and books—rows upon rows of books. The clientele is a cross section of PDX culture, from grandmas to hipsters, students to survivalists. Explore the color-coded rooms to your heart’s content, and then try to find your way out…

Food and drink to try in Portland

Dining in Portland is a remarkably delicious adventure. The fare is focused, local, and sustainably mouthwatering. Start with locally roasted morning coffee. Grab your gluten-free-for-all donut in the food cart pods. Mix up regional and international offerings between lunch and dinner. Do your homework on the food scene and come hungry. But don’t forget to let the spirit move you. With breweries, wineries, and distilleries littering the landscape, it’s easy to find something you’ll absolutely love. PDX turns happy hour into a lifestyle, so carve out that 4-7pm slot on the schedule to make the rounds.

Culture in Portland

Portland’s large reader population enjoys a library and a bookstore that each cover an entire city block. The city is a rich new-media outpost—with film, literature, art, and music spanning the cultural spectrum in a variety of venues and installations. The museum scene offers a full complement of content from art to history, science to forestry, all easily accessible and striving to give visitors context for their NW experience. Note that Portlandia (not the TV show) is the second-largest bronze statue in the United States, eclipsed only by the one on Liberty Island. See it!

Summer serves up some of the most entertaining events on the festival calendar. Cinco de Mayo kicks off the season; then the Rose Festival officially welcomes summer in June. The Waterfront Blues Fest fuels a carefree, all-ages party well into the evening on the Fourth of July, attracting national headliners. The Oregon Brewers Fest puts the beer in Beervana with summer and winter events. Go international with the Chinese, Polish, Italian, Greek, and German festivals. Music/Techfest NW is Portland’s all-out SXSW knockoff in fall. Portland International Film Fest lights up screens in winter. Bottom line—the party’s always pumping.

Practical Information

It’s all about the environment, so always bring rain gear. Pack jacket and pants if you’re planning on going native. Summer can be hot. Winter can bring snow. Fall and spring weather are all over the map, so wear your layers for a comfortable stay. Don’t forget your running, yoga, or exercise wear, and get a workout in. Major-league soccer with the Portland Timbers is a real treat, but tickets are tight, so plan ahead and sit with the “Timbers Army.” Across the river, Winterhawks and Blazers seats are more accessible.

Guide Editor

Jay Rymeski is a veteran writer, producer, and journalist based in Portland, Oregon.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
We’re living in the golden age of hotels that have craft cocktails, Instagram-ready design, and in-room turntables. These properties, ranging from West Texan motels to loft-like boutiques in the middle of city noise, are our absolute favorites of the breed.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
This is the best way to explore Portland’s budding dispensary scene. At Serra Modern Druggist’s flagship downtown location, you’ll get a one-on-one walkthrough of edibles, flower, and every other form of cannabis product imaginable. The space screams high-end retail: glass, white oak, marble, white walls, succulents and plenty of branded items. Entry is limited so that customers receive one-on-one service when they enter the store. Snag a set of “feel all the feelings” matches and prepare for a learning session with a knowledgeable docent. The overall effect is calming, as well as a fascinating window into what legalized cannabis stores will look like as they spread to other parts of the United States.
Consider this your worldwide summer cocktail guide.
It’s not exactly Portland’s highest point but, at 1,073 feet, it’s close. Irrespective of how Council Crest Park measures up, it provides a view of five surrounding mountains on a clear day: Rainier, Adams, Jefferson, Hood, and St. Helens, with helpful indicators showing which mountain is which for those not as versed in freestyle mountain identification as lifelong Portlanders are. Bolder folks may opt to hike to the summit along the trails here, though driving up the hill past suffering road bicyclists is an easier option year-round. The water tower that’s now part of the park was once a feature of the Council Crest Amusement Park, torn down in 1941.
If you can’t say nyet to a convivial meal with all the trimmings, Kachka is the place to toast your fellow comrades. Surprisingly, Kachka isn’t Portland’s only Russian restaurant, but this Slavic stunner is certainly one of the best—not just among the city’s Russian restaurants but all of its dining options. There are hearty classics like beef Stroganoff, though the main draw here is the zakuski, Russian tapas that are ideally paired with many, many shots of vodka. You’ll find pickled items as well as the showstopping Herring under a Fur Coat, a Russian seven-layer dip with herring, potatoes, onions, carrots, beets, mayo, and eggs. Reservations are essential.
One of the many excellent coffee roasters in Portland, Coava occupies an industrial-chic space in the Central Eastside that’s more than a spot to duck in for an espresso. The airy 13,000-square-foot operation includes training facilities, an enormous coffee silo in which beans are stored, and, of course, a retail coffee bar from which visitors can watch much of the coffee-roasting process unfold. Though Coava’s beans are proudly served at some of Portland’s best coffee shops, many of the pour-overs at its “brew bar” are available in limited quantities and not served anywhere else.
An unassuming little neighborhood restaurant in the shadow of Mount Tabor, Coquine offers one of the best dining experiences in the city. Chef Katy Millard cooks what tickles her fancy, usually something seasonal, vaguely Continental, definitely Northwestern, and always interesting. (One constant, though, is the whole chicken to share, a crowd favorite.) Unlike at many fine-dining establishments, you can stop in for breakfast or lunch, too. Try the chocolate chip cookies, which are so popular that you used to have to call ahead and order them in advance if you wanted them at dinner. Ksandek Podbielski, Millard’s husband, oversees the regionally focused yet still surprising wine list.
All those Willamette Valley pinot noirs you’ve heard about? This is the wine shop in Portland where you’ll find many of them. Fresh off a move in 2016 to a former brasserie, Park Avenue Wines now covers 8,500 square feet of space and includes a wine bar called Bardot, storage for your wine (wine lockers!), and plenty of room for evening tasting events. Northwest wine aficionados will want to join one of the wine clubs, one of which focuses solely on wines from the region. As a place to start an education about the wines from the Willamette Valley and environs, it’s hard to beat.
Looking to take home a piece of Portland? Your new best fronds are here to help. Solabee Flowers & Botanicals is your source for succulents, staghorn ferns, stately palms, and just about anything else you can imagine from the world of houseplants, ceramics and pottery, crystals, and palo santo, the popular South American incense sticks. All those plants make for a sunny bi-level shop that’s an olfactory heaven. The helpful staff of plant experts are happy to consult with you and troubleshoot any issues you may have with your cacti. This very Portland store even boasts a corgi mascot that’s often featured on Solabee’s Instagram feed.
On the corner of a rather scrofulous downtown block and across the street from the Ace Hotel’s event space, Wildfang is a self-described “home for badass women.” Whether it’s street style with a feminist message—even in Portland, it’s not every day that one finds a “Slay the Patriarchy” baseball cap—or high-fashion clothing that works on all sorts of body types, Wildfang packs it all in. For hangers-on who aren’t as interested in shopping or fashion, the bar inside the store provides liquid relief, including beers designed in collaboration with 10 Barrel that were created by women brewmasters.
Portland’s only southern Thai fried chicken restaurant also happens to be the city’s best fried chicken restaurant, full stop. It helps to have one of Portland’s ambassadors of Thai cuisine, Earl Ninsom—of impossible-to-reserve Langbaan and takeout staple PaaDee—behind the counter-service concept in the cheery, narrow space where diners rub elbows with the cooks. The unique style of preparing the birds, which are rubbed with cumin, white pepper, coriander, and fresh garlic before they’re breaded with rice flour, fried, and served with fresh shallots, results in a crispy, spicy, just-light-enough flavor profile. Pair with the housemade curry and roti, mixing and matching and dipping as you go, for maximum enjoyment.