Buffalo

Buffalo has flown under the radar for far too long. With unparalleled architecture, world-class museums and art galleries, inventive restaurants and cocktail bars, traditional pubs on nearly every street corner, and art and food festivals celebrating diverse local communities, the City of Good Neighbors is more than worth a visit. While most may associate Buffalo with chilly winters and delicious pub food—which wouldn’t necessarily be wrong—there’s so much more going on here.

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Photo by Open Tours LLC/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Buffalo?

Buffalo is one of those lucky places that experiences each season to the extreme. Winter brings blankets of thick white snow, while spring offers a break from freezing temperatures and the chance to get outside and explore Buffalo’s Frederick Law Olmsted–designed parks. In the summer, you can look forward to lush greenery and 80-degree days, perfect for strolling the Queen City’s historic neighborhoods during a local festival. Come fall, the city’s domineering oak and maple trees light up the streets with vibrant colors that make for great photo opportunities.

Should you feel inclined to avoid Buffalo during the winter months, know that locals embrace the colder temperatures with outdoor activities like snowboarding, skiing, and sledding. Each year, Labatt Blue even hosts a four-day pond hockey tournament at RiverWorks. Winter is also a great time to check out Buffalo’s food scene, as you have a better chance of snagging a table without a reservation.

How to get around Buffalo

Buffalo Niagara International Airport is about 10 miles from downtown. While there are a host of private taxi services available curbside, your best bet is to take an Uber or Lyft for about $20. The city also has a metro rail that runs the length of Main Street, starting at the University of Buffalo South Campus and continuing through the Theatre District and Downtown to Canalside.

Neighborhoods like Allentown, Elmwood Village, and Hertel Avenue in North Buffalo are quite walkable, but because of the city’s sprawl, you’ll want a car to travel between areas. For those seeking a more scenic experience, there’s Reddy Bikeshare, which starts at $3 for a two-day pass. Riders can pick up a bike at any of the 40 docking stations around town and are charged $0.10 for each mile, in addition to the fee for the pass.

Food and drink to try in Buffalo

While Buffalo may be best known for its namesake wings, it also boasts a burgeoning cocktail and food scene, with chefs and mixologists constantly pushing the limits of creativity. If you’re more in the mood for comfort food, you’ll find plenty of those places, too, along with loads of restaurants specializing in global cuisine thanks to the city’s strong immigrant community. The West Side Bazaar, an incubator space that supports refugees and low-income entrepreneurs, hosts a number of great ethnic restaurants, serving everything from Malaysian and Burmese to Ethiopian and Puerto Rican fare.

Culture in Buffalo

If you’re going to Buffalo in search of culture, you’ll need to carve out a significant amount of time for exploring. Art enthusiasts should head to the Burchfield Penney Art Center and the Buffalo AKG Art Museum to see works by some of the world’s most celebrated artists, like Gauguin, Matisse, Jackson Pollock, and Andy Warhol. Music lovers can visit the Colored Musicians Club, where greats like Billie Holiday, Miles Davis, and Dizzy Gillespie once played, while architecture fans will want to check out the seven Frank Lloyd Wright buildings throughout town, including the Martin House, Graycliff, and Rowing Boathouse. Year-round, the city also hosts dozens of food, art, and cultural festivals, celebrating everything from chicken wings and local artisans to the Polish Lenten holiday of Dyngus Day.

Can’t miss things to do in Buffalo

Buffalo’s must-see attractions really depend on when you visit. During the summer, you should plan your trip around one of the many outdoor festivals or events, like the Allentown Art Festival, the Elmwood Avenue Festival of the Arts, or Garden Walk—and save time for rock-climbing in grain elevators at RiverWorks. When winter arrives, visitors will want to partake in outdoor activities like sledding and skiing, or check out the local brewery scene. No matter the season, the Martin House and the Buffalo AKG Art Museum are not to be missed. Make sure to also walk a few of the neighborhoods to scope out Buffalo’s world-class architecture, and try to visit as many of the local restaurants and bars as possible.

Practical Information

Due to Buffalo’s close proximity to Niagara Falls (about 25 minutes by car) and Canada (less than a 10-minute drive), it’s a good idea to bring along your passport when visiting, in case you decide to do a day trip to the falls or the Niagara Wine Region.

Guide Editor

Born and raised in Buffalo and currently residing in Jersey City, Sean Flynn is a freelance writer, editor, and photographer. His work has appeared in Travel + Leisure, Food & Wine, Departures, and the New York Times, among others. When he’s not writing about culture, travel, and food, he’s busy trying out recipes at home with his wife, Melissa, and wrangling his toddler daughter and newborn twin girls. Follow his travels on Instagram @TravelingNewYorker.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
Why we love it: An architectural landmark beautifully transformed into a five-star hotel

The Highlights:
- Elegant design touches like marble-inlaid floors and a gold-leafed stairway
- Urban hot springs for soaking even in the snow
- A rooftop lounge with views of the city and Lake Erie

The Review:
Opened in 1913 at the height of Buffalo’s boomtown years, this historic building originally served as office space. At six stories, it was considered a Chicago-style skyscraper and enjoyed pride of place as one of the city’s tallest buildings. It was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2008 and underwent a $25 million makeover in 2017 to become the Curtiss—Buffalo’s only five-star hotel. The renovation added elegant touches like marble cornices, which are illuminated by brightly colored lights each evening, and a fountain at the main entrance, where iron taps stream into marble basins. Other extraordinary design moments include the marble-inlaid floor in the foyer, a gold-leafed stairway, and the glamorous Jazz Age mosaic by artist Christopher Guy behind the front desk. Lest it start to feel stuffy, however, the hotel also includes contemporary touches like “urban hot springs” where guests can soak outdoors no matter the season.

Set in Buffalo’s thriving Theatre District, the Curtiss has 68 rooms with premium linens, bedside control panels, and marble bathrooms with luxurious showers. Some even feature Toto toilets with heated seats, as well as steam showers and aromatherapy jetted tubs. When it’s time for drinks, high-speed elevators whisk guests to the VUE Rooftop Lounge, complete with three bars, a massive fire pit, and sweeping views of downtown Buffalo. For dinner, there’s also the standout Chez Ami restaurant, which features year-round patio seating and Western New York’s only revolving bar.
Why we love it: A pedigreed stay that perfectly marries fin de siècle charm with modern luxury

The Highlights:
- A French Renaissance–style building designed by America’s first female professional architect
- Fireplaces and deep-soaking tubs in some rooms
- An in-house craft brewery that serves pints in a “bar-cade” with pinball machines

The Review:
When The Lafayette opened in 1904, it was immediately hailed as one of the country’s finest hotels. America’s first female professional architect, Louise Blanchard Bethune designed the seven-story, redbrick-and-white-terra-cotta property to blend “the best that science, art, and experience can offer for the traveling public,” which at the time meant telephones and hot water in every room. Renovations in the late 1940s introduced several Art Deco elements that still remain, while a 2012 restoration helped bring the hotel into the modern era.

Today, The Lafayette is part of the Wyndham Hotel Group’s Trademark Hotel Collection and features 13,500 square feet of meeting space. It’s also home to a 15-barrel craft brewery, where guests can enjoy beers and pub fare while playing arcade games; a small-batch coffee roastery with freshly baked pastries; and an outpost of Groom Service Beauty & Dry Bar for blow-outs, professional makeup, manicures, and more. The 57 rooms and suites feature wall murals of vintage photos, designed to complement a palette of plum, brown, and dusty gold. Some have fireplaces, deep-soaking tubs, and full kitchens, too. If you’re looking to indulge, book the Lafayette Suite, which includes a Juliet balcony, double-sided hearth, and dining table suitable for large gatherings.
For the coolest and most unique clothing in Buffalo, head to this streetwear-focused consignment shop in Allentown. While everything here is vintage, the selection puts a special focus on the 1980s to the present, with pieces from Supreme, Bape, Palace, Off-White, Anti Social Social Club, and more. Sneakerheads will be particularly impressed with the collection of vintage kicks in pristine condition, while sports fanatics will love all the old-school team gear, from Sabres sweatpants to a Bills Super Bowl T-shirt from 1991. Prices are affordable, especially considering the quality of products for sale, and the selection is updated regularly so you’re always guaranteed to find something new.
Located on North Buffalo’s Hertel Avenue, MiMo Decor highlights mid-century, modernist, and contemporary design. Rated the best place in the city to find vintage furniture by local lifestyle magazine Buffalo Spree, the shop offers a range of upscale pieces, from bar cabinets to dresser sets. Father-daughter duo Joe and Jessica Buscaglia run the store, with Joe working to restore American and Scandinavian furniture and Jessica in charge of retail and design services. Visitors here can expect a showroom of unique items, plus a range of services, from rehabs and total rebuilds to in-home consultations, staging and furniture rental, upholstering, and more.
For authentic souvenirs from all over the world, head to the West Side Bazaar. The incubator on the Grant Street Corridor supports refugees, immigrants, and low-income entrepreneurs on their path to becoming successful business owners, providing them space to pursue their dreams. Start in the stalls, where you’ll find everything from Rwandan peace baskets and Burmese puppets to Sudanese jewelry and macramé art by an Iraqi woman named Nadeen Yousef. Afterward, refuel with your choice of Mexican cuisine, Asian snacks, Ethiopian fare, halal food, and more.
Housed in a cottage in Elmwood Village, Bureau offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-measure clothing for the stylish man. Here, guys can shop for everything from dress shirts and sweaters to jackets and pocket squares, or schedule a fitting with a seasoned tailor to create a custom piece. While similar shops tend to offer clothing and services at an unattainable price point, the owners at Bureau welcome clients on a budget and work hard to maintain a friendly, approachable shopping environment.
A consummate purveyor of all things music and vintage vinyl, Phil Machemer sold records at the Peddler Flea Market before opening Revolver Records in North Buffalo in 2015. Now, he offers more than 30,000 new and quality used records at his brick-and-mortar space, helping shoppers choose from jazz, indie rock, soul, metal, hip-hop, punk, international, country, and anything else they desire. Machemer has had so much success with his store that he just opened a second location with a similarly varied selection in the heart of Elmwood Village.
Designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1903 for a wealthy businessman, the Martin House is one of Buffalo’s architectural masterpieces. Situated in the beautiful Parkside neighborhood, it stands out among the restored Victorian homes and canopy of old-growth trees for its Prairie house style, complete with strong horizontal lines, deeply overhanging eaves, and a sheltering, cantilevered roof. A pergola connects the home to a conservatory and carriage house with chauffeur’s quarters and stables, while a smaller residence and gardener’s cottage sit nearby. Over the decades, the complex suffered considerable damage and three of the original five buildings were destroyed, but in 1992, the Martin House Restoration Corporation was formed to raise funds and oversee a complete restoration.

Extensive reconstruction efforts began in 1997 and are ongoing today, but visitors can now experience the property on a variety of tours. Choose from one- and two-hour options to see details like Wright-designed furniture, art glass, and light fixtures, or pick a themed tour like the Twilight, Photography+, or Wright Night. Either way, save time to check out the conservatory, anchored by a stunning replica of the Nike of Samothrace statue.
If you find yourself at Founding Fathers Pub, you should know it’s going to be a late night. Open since 1968, the hole-in-the-wall tavern is a local favorite, but generally flies under the radar of travelers visiting the area. It’s the type of no-frills spot where you meet old friends to catch up, or get quizzed on Buffalo’s rich history by owner and former social studies teacher Mike Driscoll, who decked out the space in presidential memorabilia. Grab a seat at the bar and strike up conversation, then order a pint or two to pair with the free popcorn and nachos served nightly.
Billy Club opened in Allentown toward the end of 2015 in a formerly boarded-up apartment building turned contemporary hideaway. From the start, owners Dan Hagen and Jake Strawser focused on cocktails, in part inspired by the speakeasy that operated out of the building during Prohibition. Drinks here are creative and delicious, made with top-notch spirits and local ingredients. There’s also a strong focus on whiskey, as well as a full food menu with dishes like house-made pasta, whole trout, and aged duck breast with figs. While you should definitely try one of the whiskey cocktails, you should also visit during Sunday brunch for the Bloody Mary—it’s one of the best in Buffalo.