Oaxaca

Oaxaca is a vibrant colonial city with rich indigenous roots. It has bustling marketplaces, lively fiestas, and wonderful folk art traditions. It’s a place with a fascinating history. The capital of Zapotec civilization was located on the nearby mountaintop now known as Monte Albán. Later, the Dominicans built some of their most impressive churches and convents here. A city of color, movement, and sound, as well as a cornucopia of flavors, Oaxaca also offers ample tranquil spaces where you can quietly enjoy the natural and cultural beauty of this magical area.

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Photo Courtesy of Brian Finke

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Oaxaca?

Oaxaca enjoys a pleasant climate year-round. The warmest months are usually April and May, when daytime temps can reach into the 90s, but since it is a dry heat, it’s invariably pleasant in the shade. The rainy season begins in late spring and continues through to early fall. You can expect rain in the afternoons during that time of year, but it’s not a bad time to visit: dry, brown landscapes turn lush and green. The coolest months are December and January, when nights and mornings are decidedly chilly, but daytimes are warm and sunny.

How to get around Oaxaca

Oaxaca’s international airport (OAX) receives several flights a day from Mexico City, and one daily flight from Houston. There is limited air connection from other Mexican destinations; discount airline VivaAerobus offers a few direct flights a week from Cancun and Monterrey. Bus connections are more plentiful. ADO bus company runs first-class service from the TAPO bus station in Mexico City, and frequent buses run from other Mexican destinations.

Oaxaca’s historic center is easy to get around on foot. The city plan is simple to navigate, with streets changing name north and south of Independencia, and east and west of Alcalá. Taxis are an inexpensive way to get to sites farther afield. They don’t use a meter, so it’s best to agree on a price before you get in. Taxis can be hired by the hour for sightseeing trips; or, for more information as you go, hire a guide. Public buses are cheap (6 pesos), but it can be difficult to find the routes, and there are no set schedules.

Can’t miss things to do in Oaxaca

Sit side by side with locals on a metal bench or plastic stool at one of the many street food stands throughout the city. Forget about gourmet restaurants: these stands are where some of the city’s best food is served, and the friendly banter of your dining companions will be hard to beat.

Food and drink to try in Oaxaca

Oaxaca is one of Mexico’s best foodie destinations, and many of the regional dishes date back to pre-Hispanic times. Its culinary offerings include a wide variety of corn-based dishes, and the local gastronomy also makes good use of the huge array of chiles grown in the state. Mole sauces are a specialty; you’ll hear about seven different moles, but there are in fact more. Oaxaca is a major mezcal producing center, and tasting the endless varieties is a popular pastime.

Culture in Oaxaca

The historic center of Oaxaca city and Monte Albán archaeological site were declared Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 1987, but the city’s living culture is as vibrant and colorful as its storied past. The indigenous markets and traditional celebrations have changed little since ancient times and offer a glimpse into Oaxaca’s deep cultural traditions.

Colorful fiestas happen throughout the year, and even when there’s not a major holiday, it seems there is always something to celebrate. Some of the most representative festivals are Day of the Dead (at the end of October and beginning of November), Night of the Radishes (December 23), and the Guelaguetza festival (last half of July). Oaxaca’s fiestas represent the rich and diverse cultural legacy of the Oaxacan people, and visitors are more than welcome to join in the festivities.

Local travel tips for Oaxaca

Protest marches and roadblocks are not uncommon in Oaxaca. They may hamper your ability to keep to a schedule or accomplish everything you’ve set out to do, but they are by and large peaceful.

Local Resources

Guide Editor

READ BEFORE YOU GO
HOTELS
These well-curated hotel shops will give you a sense of place and a lasting memory.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
From its ancient roots and colonial treasures to modern-day craftspeople, this city lives and breathes art and culture. And Oaxaca’s museums brilliantly showcase it so you can easily take it all in.
Until recently, all the best coffee produced in the region was destined for export. That’s changing, and now there are many places in Oaxaca where you can find a good cup of coffee—along with delicious snacks and the all-important Wi-Fi.
Mole could be seen as a symbol of Oaxaca. Just as Oaxaca is very diverse, with a variety of terrains and ethnic groups, so is mole. Spicy or sweet, it is made from a wide selection of ingredients, both native and European. Mole negro (black mole) is the best known, but there are many different kinds.
Woolen rugs, woodcarvings, ceramics... So many treasures to take home!
Take a closer look at how some of the world’s most popular destinations are coping with overtourism—and learn a few ways you can travel more conscientiously.
From May through the early fall, Mexico becomes a wonderland of wild mushrooms—if you know where to look.
A photographer shares his vision of central Mexico’s captivating colonial city.
A couple returns to the Mexican city where they lived in their youth to see how it—and they—have changed.
From outside the compound-like walls of Hacienda Los Laureles, it’s hard to imagine what a beautiful, peaceful experience awaits inside. When the doors open, guests step onto a large, lush lawn that’s kept green by a sophisticated graywater recycling system. The oversized rooms of the hacienda are dotted around the lawn’s periphery, and visitors are greeted with special touches, including decorations that use the property’s natural assets, like colorful bougainvillea flowers. Even when the hotel is at high occupancy, Hacienda Los Laureles feels private and relaxed.
Oaxaca has no shortage of gorgeous colonial-era buildings; in fact, that’s what draws many visitors to this stunningly beautiful Mexican city. But Casa de Siete Balcones, a seven-room boutique hotel, is particularly special, with unusually spacious rooms and, as its name suggests, seven balconies (yes, one for each room). The building itself dates to the 18th century. The structure, along with the rooms’ heavy wood furniture and the cobbled street just outside the door, has the effect of transporting guests to another era. Other design details that will appeal to visitors with nostalgia for an earlier century include Spanish tile floors, and a courtyard filled with plants and flowers; the Spanish-style patio also features a bubbling fountain. Rooms are filled with natural light, and service is friendly and attentive.