Merida

Mérida, the capital of Yucatán, is nicknamed The White City, in part because of its cleanliness and in part because of its many white, colonial-era structures, magnificent buildings funded by the fortunes of sisal plantation owners. Despite the Old World feel, the city has plenty of modern services. Visitors interested in authentic cultural experiences won’t be disappointed; Mérida offers free musical and dance performances practically every night of the week.

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Photo by Christina Holmes

Overview

Can’t miss things to do in Merida

Admiring architecture, both pre-Hispanic and colonial, is one of the top reasons to visit Mérida. The city is located in the state of Yucatán, which was the heart of Maya civilization, and the ancient, accomplished culture’s pyramids, temples, ceremonial centers, and residential and recreational structures are on display for visitors at sites such as Chichén Itzá and lesser-known places like Mayapan and Dzibilchaltún. Come back to the city center and walk along the Paseo de Montejo to fast-forward to the colonial era. Mérida was flush with cash from sisal production, and its barons of industry built lavish mansions; some of them are open to the public today, such as Casa de Montejo, a former residence that is now a museum.

Outdoor Adventure

Mérida is an inland city, set about a half-hour from the nearest coastal area; it’s also a bit removed from the more jungle-like areas of the Yucatán Peninsula. Nevertheless, the city is an excellent jumping-off point for outdoor adventures in either type of environment. From wildlife excursions (including birding) in the town of Celestún to on-foot exploration of nearly a dozen Maya sites, among them world-famous Chichén Itzá and the lesser-known but no less wondrous Dzibilchaltún, active travelers won’t lack options for things to do during a visit to Mérida. If you just have to get to the beach, the coastal town of Progreso and its white-sand beaches, just to the north of the city, make for an ideal day trip.

Food and drink to try in Merida

Mérida is the official capital of the state of Yucatán, but it is also considered the cultural and culinary capital of the region. Food here is very distinctive, and is typically influenced and informed by long-standing traditions, techniques, and recipes that have endured since the golden age of the Maya civilization. Expect dishes featuring pork, corn, and squash; try some of them at La Chaya Maya, or the upscale K’u’uk, both of which specialize in Maya-inspired cuisine. The city’s relative proximity to the coast also means that fresh fish and seafood are easy to find. If you’re keen to take home some recipes, a cooking class at the renowned Los Dos culinary school is a can’t-miss experience.

Culture in Merida

Mérida has all the usual organizations and institutions where visitors can experience art and other cultural traditions; however, it’s in the city’s open, public spaces—namely, its plazas and squares—where some of the most affordable and most memorable experiences can be had. Nearly every night of the week you can find music and dance performances that channel the traditions of the Yucatán; many of these are influenced by the ancient Maya civilization and all of them are free of charge. Don’t skip formal spaces, though; venues such as the exceptional Teatro Peón Contreras, home to the Yucatán Symphony Orchestra, feature world-class artists in ornate settings.

Practical Information

Mérida is warm year-round and can get very hot in summer; visit in fall for lower humidity and more comfortable temperatures. Mérida is located on the Yucatán Peninsula and is serviced by Manuel Crescencio Rejón Airport. Though it’s an international airport, service from U.S. cities is limited. Many visitors fly into Cancún; though a four-hour drive from Mérida, it has more international flights. Combine the two destinations to experience the beach and a colonial city. A rental car is the best way to get around with maximum freedom and flexibility. The official language is Spanish and the currency is the Mexican peso. Voltage is the same as in the United States.

Guide Editor

Julie Schwietert Collazo has been a bilingual freelance writer, editor, and translator for the past 10 years and loves (almost) every minute of it, but tells people if she could have any other job, it would be a gig as a Mexico City evangelist. The Mexican capital is her former home and the first place she always wants to go when she gets on a plane. Read more at collazoprojects.com and Cuaderno Inedito.

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Chef/owner Roberto Solís is widely considered one of Mexico’s best chefs—and Néctar deserves its reputation as one of the area’s top restaurants. The kitchen serves up traditional dishes from the area, all featuring local and seasonal ingredients so the menu changes depending on what’s being harvested around the Yucatán. But several local favorites are always available, including cochinita pibil(roast pork); relleno negro-stuffed turkey; and tikin xic (fish marinated in Achiote and sweet chile.
With a name like that, it’s no wonder this boutique hotel is a prime spot for romantic getaways in the Yucatan’s capital city. The two pink-hued colonial mansions are as charming as they are camera-friendly, bedecked in vibrant modern art and picturesque patios and outdoor corners that mix lush greenery and sleek furnishings. Life here feels like its perpetually viewed through rose-colored glasses, and it’s not just the walls: the spa offers an enticing menu of xocolatherapies; the tequila bar has over 250 varieties to sample; the oasis-like swimming pool is a palm-shaded spot for afternoon dips; and there’s even a chocolate shop on-site. Guests can dine on gourmet fusion fare in the restaurant, or head up to the rooftop lounge for cocktails with a side of live jazz. As for the guest rooms, they’re no less indulgent with their rose and cocoa palettes and patterned-tile floors; minimalist bathrooms have sumptuous open-air stone tubs, large walk-in rainfall showers, and handmade chocolate soaps.
This ice-cream-and-sorbet parlor has been a favorite among locals for over a hundred years. It’s a great place to try sweet and refreshing frozen treats made from various stars of the Yucatán’s exotic-produce bonanza, such as sapote, mamey, and tamarind. At night, families fill the tables. Champolas—beverages crafted from milk and ice cream or sorbet—are also a favorite. A signature version includes sorbet made from soursop (guanábana), a fruit that abounds in the Yucatán.
For contemporary, high-end Yucatecan cuisine, look no further than K’u’uk. Chef Pedro Evia has taken the spirit of regional food and given it a modern twist. He presents common Yucatecan recipes like suckling pig, then uses ingredients like star fruit and sapote to showcase subtler flavors than those found in traditional cochinita pibil. All the essences of Yucatecan delicacies can be found here, but in ways that are almost unrecognizable, such as in the atole ceviche or the dessert of Yucatán honeycomb with pollen and passion fruit. Located amid the grandeur of a colonial mansion close to the Monumento a la Patria in Mérida, K’u’uk has high ceilings, original-tile floors, and large chandeliers that set the scene for an exclusive dining experience. Guests opt for a recommended nine-course tasting menu or order from an à la carte bill of fare that changes periodically.
It’s a little strange to find yourself in an Italian restaurant in Merida, when your focus should be the local Yucatean cuisine. But when a young, and talented chef like Stefano Marcelletti decides to cook for you at his brand new restaurant, it’s 100% worth the detour. We had the best seats in the house, right in front of the kitchen, which is separated by a large glass wall from the dining room. The flurry of activity inside was infectious, and the incredible dishes they churned out for us, one after the other, left our rambunctious crowd speechless and in awe. It was a real journey for the senses. Simple plates, such as a caprese salad, made our taste buds explode. At the end we all felt it was a good break from our intense foray into Yucatean food over the past few days. The restaurant’s interios is modern, perhaps even a little bit industrial in style. It looked like mostly locals ate here, as we didn’t spot a other tourists. If you’re ready to take a break from Mexican food, or simply in the mood for some scrumptious Italian fare, this is your place. OPEN MON–SAT: 7pm-11pm Oliva Enoteca only takes reservations for 8 and more people. All other will be seated on a first come first serve basis. Calle 47 & Esquina con 54 Colonia Centro, Merida, YUC, MX. Tel. 999.923.3081 >>>A heartfelt thank you to Yucatan Tourism for an unforgettable 4 days in the Yucatan, my new favorite place in Mexico! @YucatanTourism #TravelYucatan
Merida’s main market, Lucas de Galvez, covers 156,000 square feet and has over 2000 vendors that sell fruits, vegetables, meat, fish, seasonings, pots, baskets, animals, shoes, clothes...the list goes on and on. Roughly 100,000 visitors flock to the colorful stalls on a daily basis. It’s a great market to explore on your own, but if you’re curious about some of the unusual fruits, vegetables, herbs, ingredients and prepared foods you’ll likely find here, and may not be familiar with, sign up for a market (and cooking) tour with a chef like David Cetina. It is fun to walk the different food halls with a local-in-the-know. We got to see, smell, and taste tons of things, and we got a good inkling of what makes the Ycatean cuisine so darn delicious. MARKET HOURS: –everyday from 8am-6pm >>>A heartfelt thank you to Yucatan Tourism for an unforgettable 4 days in the Yucatan, my new favorite place in Mexico! @YucatanTourism #TravelYucatan
Café Latte | Quattro Sette is a great find if you’re in need for caffeine, tea, or a snack. It’s a fairly new addition to Merida, frequented by tons of expats, natives, and the occasional traveler. The coffee is delicious and strong, and the service super charming...as long as you play by the house rules below : ) REGALES DE LA CASA – House Rules No se permite hablar por teléfono dentro del Café. (No phone calls inside the Café.) El café Illy es elmejor del mundo: Si le gustaría un descafeinado, tome agua. (Illy coffee is the best in the world: if you’d like a decaf, drink water.) Los niños bien portados son bienvenidos. Los demás los convertimos en postres. (Well behaved children are welcome. The rest will be made into pies.) Hablando de postres: la gente flaca es mas fácil de secuestrar,acompag˜e su café con un pan. (Speaking of pies: skinny people are easier to kidnap, have a pastry.) Don’t bring anyone to Latte | Quattro Sette that you wouldn’t bring to your mother’s house on Sunday. (No triage a nadir a Latte | Quattro Sette que no traería a casa de su mamá el domingo.) OPEN: 8:00AM - 4:00PM +52 999 924 8895 >>>A heartfelt thank you to Yucatan Tourism for an unforgettable 4 days in the Yucatan, my new favorite place in Mexico! @YucatanTourism #TravelYucatan
Merida has a handful of restaurants that focus on authentic, old-school Yucatean food; cooking that is influenced by Mayan, Caribbean, Spanish, African, and Middle Eastern cultures. I was lucky to eat at one of the best: Chef David Cetina’s ‘La Tradición’. David Cetina is passionate, energetic and charming. He’s also a bit of a local celebrity and a spokesperson for the preservation of the traditional dishes of the Yucatan. His food preparations are authentic and unpretentious. Although he’s bit shy to speak English, he loves to share his knowledge and works with a translator when he takes people to the market, or when he conducts his cooking classes. Spending time with David is fun and educational. The restaurant may feel a bit old-fashioned, but don’t let that get in the way. The food that you’ll experience here explodes with flavors and will blow your mind. There’s also a refreshing, delicious and ‘healthy’ alcoholic drink (shocker, I know!)–the Cocktail de Chaya, a must-have when you’re at La Tradición. Touring the Mercado Lucas de Galvéz, and lunch at La Tradición, can be organized for $100/ per person (minimum 2 people). Lunch can be interactive cooking in a–please note–commercial, and very hot (!!) kitchen, or–my choice, a seated experience. I believe there was talk about building an additional, more leisure focused kitchen specifically for cooking lessons, so you may want to inquire about that. To book, please contact the restaurant directly: +52 (999) 925-2526, or [email protected] >>>A heartfelt thank you to Yucatan Tourism for an unforgettable 4 days in the Yucatan, my new favorite place in Mexico! @YucatanTourism #TravelYucatan
Pok-Ta–Pok is an ancient Mayan ball game, that was played thousands of years ago as part of a sacred, sacrificial ceremony, pitting good against evil. The general belief is that the ball, five pounds of solid rubber, could only be hit with forearms and thighs. The goal of the game was to maneuver the ball through a stone hoop extending from a wall. The winner (yes, winner!) of the game was sacrificed, which was then the highest honor bestowed on a Mayan player. Pok-Ta-Pok ball courts, which must have been inspiration for Harry Potter’s Quidditch, can still be found at Mayan archeological sites, such as Chichen Itza, and Uxmal. Friday nights the ancient sport is reenacted in front of Merida Cathedral–luckily though, sans sacrifice. It’s fun to watch and it gets pretty crazy towards the end, when the ball is literally ON FIRE, prompting faster passes, for sure. Get there a little early to grab close-up seats, or a position close to the rails. It is good to be near the action. >>>A heartfelt thank you to Yucatan Tourism for an unforgettable 4 days in the Yucatan, my new favorite place in Mexico! @YucatanTourism #TravelYucatan