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Josip Broz Tito ruled Yugoslavia from World War II until his death in 1980. Today he’s a pop-culture icon, celebrated on mugs and T-shirts and at Caffe Tito, a spot behind the National Museum where students born after his reign get their caffeine fixes. Zmaja od Bosne 5, 387/(0) 33-210-418

We stopped for a snack at this sweet shop on the main drag. We got a piece of sticky-sweet kadaif and a hunk of halvah (it’s sold by the kilo; we, being unable to speak Bosnian, simply motioned for a small slice). Kadaif is made from shredded phyllo dough, stuffed with nuts (or sometimes cheese), and soaked in sugar syrup. Extremely sweet, extremely good.

The owner of the place we were staying told us that Bosnians respect their stuffed dough creations enough to give each kind (they have different fillings) unique names. The jab is at Croatians, who refer to all of these filled pies as burek. This one, filled with potatoes, is a krompiruza, and covered with delicious, tangy sour cream. Buregdzinica Bosna, in the old town of Sarajevo, was a hopping little place, with seats inside and outside. The flaky pastry and delicately spiced potatoes served as a very hearty snack for two.

History buffs definitely won’t want to miss out on the Museum of Military History, or Heeresgeschichtliches Museum. Focusing on Austria‘s military history from the 16th century up to 1945, exhibition halls are broken down into the Thirty Years’ War and the Ottoman Turks, the Napoleonic Wars, World War I, and World War II. Perhaps most notable is the display covering the Assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand in Sarajevo, which includes his uniform, the car in which he and his wife were riding, and the pistol used by Serbian Gavrilo Princip.

During the Siege of Sarajevo in the spring of 1993, the Bosnian Army built an underground tunnel to link the city of Sarajevo, which was entirely cut off by Serbian forces, with Bosnian-held territory on the other side of the airport, an area controlled by the United Nations. The tunnel allowed food, war supplies, and humanitarian aid into the city, and people out. It also was a way of bypassing the international arms embargo. These days, part of the tunnel that remains standing, and the nondescript house that served as its entrance, has been transformed into a museum dedicated to the war, complete with exhibits and short films.

Gallery 11/07/95 is a memorial museum and exhibition space dedicated to preserving the memory of those killed in the Srebrenica massacre of 1995.

Formerly known as the Vrbanja Bridge, in 1999, this bridge was renamed Most Suade i Olge, after Suada Dilberović and Olga Sučić, the first victims of the war to be killed in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Take a break on the Festina Lente footbridge. Halfway across the river, the span forms that shelters two wooden benches, inviting you to pause for a moment. It’s fitting that the bridge’s name is Latin for “make haste, slowly.”