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Community consciousness and sustainability define a trio of beach hotels on Sumba, an island known for its pristine beaches, remote villages, and ancient rituals.

Authentic Experiences Here Do Not Have to Cost a Fortune.

The capital of Malaysia has become a hotbed of art and design. Kuala Lumpur’s most influential residents guide AFAR through five of the city’s creatively charged neighborhoods.

AFAR chose a destination at random and sent chef John Currence on 24 hours’ notice to a hot, sweet, sticky country where he followed a trail through the cuisine to the people who make it.

Nasi lemak is a simple meal consisting of rice cooked in coconut milk, served with hard-boiled egg, fried anchovies, peanuts, cucumber, and sambal (a chili-based condiment). It’s eaten at breakfast and is usually sold wrapped in newspaper or brown paper, lined with banana leaves. You can find it in the mornings at almost any roadside stall around Kuala Lumpur. It’s probably the cheapest and quickest breakfast for people rushing off to work, but it’s not short on flavor.

The Durian is fondly known as the king of fruits in Southeast Asia. It’s a fruit that the locals love, but that many outsiders find to be an acquired taste. In fact, Andrew Zimmern, the presenter of the Travel Channel’s Bizarre Foods, (the guy who eats the world’s craziest and weirdest things) can’t stand durians. The name durian comes from the Malay word “duri,” which means “thorns.” Cutting open a durian is an art. You have to cut along certain lines created by the thorns, which are barely visible. If you get it wrong, it would be tough to open. Once cut, you use your palms to push apart the insides to reveal the yellow flesh. The smell of the durian is strong enough to make you salivate or faint, depending on which side of the fence you are on regarding it’s taste. If you’re ever in Malaysia, you must give it a try. Who knows? You could end up liking something that Andrew Zimmern himself can’t stomach!

It’s believed that this village located six kilometers (four miles) outside Malacca was founded by the parents of the 15th-century Malaysian warrior Hang Tuah. According to a local legend, when they were sitting by the river, they spotted a mermaid (duyong) and thus the village got its name. Hang Tuah would go on to become a legendary admiral of the Malacca sultanate, which was conquered by the Portuguese in 1511. A visit to Kampung Duyong today offers a chance to see its historic mosque, traditional houses and a well said to have been dug by Hang Tuah with water that is believed to have healing properties. The homes of Hang Tuah along with those of four of his fellow warriors are open to the public.

After a 10-minute ferry ride from Changi Point in Singapore City, you’ll arrive on Pulau Ubin—a small, densely forested island where life moves a little slower. Rent a bicycle and spend a lazy day pedaling around this sleepy fishing kampung (village). You can sample fresh grilled fish and prawns from seaside hawker stalls, sip Tiger Beer, and get a glimpse of what life was like in parts of Singapore as recently as 50 years ago. Visitors may also enjoy kayaking trips and nature walks led by local volunteers. Check the National Parks website for details and to book tours. If you don’t want the peace and quiet to end, stay overnight at the island’s resort or at one of its free beach campsites.

The rafflesia is the world’s largest bloom and can be over 100cm in diameter. It only grows in a few places on earth. One of those places is the rain-forests of Borneo. It is the state flower of Sabah, Malaysia and Kinabalu National Park is a good place to start your search for this rare flower. The rafflesia is a carnivorous plant that smells of rotting meat, to attract prey. It is rare and valuable. So much so, when found, they are surrounded by fencing and a guard stays in the jungle beside the flower 24/7. It’s all funded by the Kinabalu Park service to protect the plants from poachers. If you are determined to see a rafflesia, check with the Rafflesia Information Centre, about an hour from Kota Kinabalu, while planning your trip. Guides can be arranged through their office.

The old K.L. Railway Station on Sultan Hishamuddin Road used to be K.L.'s main station. At one time, it was the most important and busiest station in the whole of Malaysia. As a child, I remember feeling very excited when we went there to see relatives off or to board the train ourselves (which wasn’t very often). The station was built in 1910 and is an example of colonial-style architecture, heavily influenced by Moorish and Mughal designs. There used to be a famous hotel within the building called the Heritage Station Hotel. Sadly, it closed down a couple of years ago. The beauty of the building is what is seen on the outside. There is nothing extraordinary inside apart from a little railway museum. The station now serves only local commuter trains, and has lost its importance since the bigger and more modern K.L. Sentral Station was established not too far away in 2001.

Landing in heat-soaked Kuala Lumpur after being on the road for 24 hours can be disorienting. Incessant chanting (“vei vel shakti vel”), monkeys screeching, wafting incense, a glorious moon, and a million people.


Thaipusam falls on a full moon and is the celebration in remembrance of Lord Murugan (his statue pictured at the base of the steep 272 steps to the Waterfall Temple at Batu Caves - the top being the best view) who received the “vel” (sacred spear) from his mother, Shiva’s wife, to kill three demons. Killing internal demons seems to be the order of the day for devotees.


The festivities begin with a chariot bearing the statue of Lord Murugan being drawn through the streets starting from Sri Maha Mariamman Temple and then on the second day (when I arrived), the fulfilling of the vows by devotees takes place at the Batu Caves after people walk barefoot approximately 15 kilometers starting in the middle of the night from Kuala Lumpur. The chariot returns to the Temple on the third day.


The real highlight is watching devotees with huge decorated frames (“kavadi”= burden”) supported by spikes that pierce their chests and backs as penance for answered prayers. As one devotee said to me, “Life is an act of gratitude and this is the ultimate day of gratitude to our deities.” I felt a deep empathy for the intense devotion and commitment of the Tamil Hindus I witnessed. This is truly one of the world’s great festivals of purification and atonement.

A visit to this Bugis fishing village of around 1,100 people, reached by a 30-minute boat ride from the pier in Komodo National Park, gives an interesting perspective into the realities of life in a very remote corner of the world. The residents are used to seeing tourists, but you may not be used to seeing the basic way of life that unfolds in this village, which existed long before the park was established. Stroll past stilt houses, and learn about the school and the village way of life during tours, which are part of a community effort to support the local people.

Kompong Phluk is a floating village located in the middle of Cambodia‘s largest lake, Tonle Sap. The term “floating” is a bit misleading: the houses are actually built on very tall stilts around 8 meters high. During the rainy season, the lake rises and covers the stilts, giving the illusion that the homes are floating in the water. We learned that these types of villages are built in the middle of the lake to make it easier for fishermen and rice farmers to gather during harvest season.

There may not be an assembly line at My French Factory, but there are griddles that turn out delectable crepes. Helmed by two Parisian chefs, this café in Pantai Cenang offers a number of sweet combinations, including homemade salted caramel and almonds, raspberries and white chocolate, and fresh lemon juice and sugar. You can also savor a galette, a buckwheat crepe that can be stuffed with such fillings as mushrooms and tomato sauce or ham, egg, and cheese. Whether it’s a crepe or something else, just don’t leave My French Factory without trying a dessert. Other worthy candidates include Nutella milkshakes, tiramisu, and ice cream-topped waffles.