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Australia’s Double Wild Appeal: Big City to Outback

Tourism is down, prices are up, social services are disappearing, and the government is bankrupt. Which means it’s a good time to get to know Seychelles.

Overview

Set in a tropical garden in the suburb of Fannie Bay, this superb museum and gallery is the best place to learn all about the art, history and culture of the Top End (the nickname for this northernmost section of the Northern Territory). The excellent collection of indigenous art includes both traditional and contemporary works. One gallery is devoted to the tragic events of Cyclone Tracy, the natural disaster of 1974; another covers the boats of the Pacific Islands. The museum’s most popular exhibit may well be Sweetheart: the stuffed carcass of a five-meter (16-foot) male saltwater crocodile that once terrorized the billabongs (waterways) outside Darwin.

The Mafia Archipelago (its name is said to come from the Arabic word morfiyeh, which means “archipelago”) consists of several islands and atolls, the largest of which is Mafia Island itself. Mafia Island is a nearly undiscovered alternative to Zanzibar, with similar picture-perfect beaches and diverse marine life, but without the crowds of tourists. Its history can be traced back to the 8th century, when boats would stop to refuel and repair along the lucrative coastal trade route. This legacy is evident in the crumbling ruins of a former town called Kua, which include a mosque and unexcavated Chinese and Persian pottery. South of the island is the submerged town of Kisimani Mafia, which was destroyed and submerged by an 1872 cyclone and has yet to be fully excavated. A protected marine preserve encompasses the islands and reefs, making this region is a diver’s paradise. Mafia Island Lodge offers makuti (similar to thatch-roofed) rooms with sea views, plus fishing, biking, walking, diving, and snorkeling, as well as historical and cultural tours.

Coney Island’s history dates back to the 1800’s, when it was envisioned as a working man’s paradise. For pocket change, you could enjoy rides and hot dogs. While you’ll need a little more than pocket change now, this venture outside Manhattan has a true charm, and can connect with most anyone’s inner child. Over the summer you’ll find packed beaches, Friday night fireworks, and the famous Nathan’s hot dog eating contest on July 4. But if you’re coming from Midtown or the Upper East/West Sides, be sure to take an express train or you’ll be in for a ride not quite as amusing as the Cyclone.

People in Chongqing are going nuts for Nova Venezia, a new Italian restaurant. It’s got some great dishes, such as eggplant parmesan, lasagne, gnocchi, and mind-blowing tiramisu. Where Nova really shines is its pizza. It has the widest variety by far in Chongqing, including smoked salmon, carbonara, and the “American Pizza” with hot dogs and French fries (you won’t be blamed if you pass on that one). Prices are super-reasonable, too. Photo by cyclonebill/Flickr.

AOC takes a New Nordic–inspired elemental approach to food. Ingredients are sourced locally with a focus on maximizing the complete experience, which includes rich colors, presentation, smells, and flavor. The restaurant is small, with room for roughly 45 people and located in the cellar of a 17th-century building. The design is simple and clean, and it avoids anything that might distract from the food. The restaurant has been awarded a Michelin star. Photo: cyclonebill (flickr)

First, Brooklyn’s Coney Island is not, in fact, an island, having been attached to the rest of the borough by landfill since the 1920s. What the area is best known for, however, is its heyday from around the 1880s through World War II when it began as a posh seaside resort area and gradually became a beloved beach destination, thanks to a number of amusement parks. The appeals of Coney Island declined after the war (historians attribute this to the proliferation of both air-conditioning, which made escaping to the shore less important, and the automobile, which made it easier to reach nicer sandy stretches on Long Island). In recent decades it has increased in popularity again. Brooklyn residents, and visitors to New York, have embraced anew the retro charms of the boardwalk and the rides that are still operating, like the Cyclone roller coaster and the Wonder Wheel Ferris wheel. The towering Parachute Jump has been abandoned, but it still stands as an impossible-to-miss landmark. Brighton Beach sits next to Coney Island and is a largely Russian neighborhood where restaurants are happy to serve any diners who appreciate copious amounts of vodka and Russian specialties.

Cyclone Cafe is one of very few Darwin coffee shops that sources its own beans from around the world and roasts them on-site. So you can expect a solid flat white, long black, and cold drip here as well as some fun additions like a triple-strength “hypercino,” the “cafe de coco"—choice of coffee blended with coconut milk—and a virgin espresso martini: a cold drip coffee shaken with with ice and a shot of vanilla that’s topped in foam. The food menu is equally satisfying with a breakfast burrito and “eggs in hell” (polenta poached eggs layered with tomato ragout, spicy chorizo and bocconcini) plus a Thai beef salad and a turkey cranberry for lunch—turkey is surprisingly hard to come by in Australia.

Housed in the heritage-listed Wesleyan Church building—an architectural feat that has withstood World War II, cyclones, neglect and abuse—Eva’s Cafe is an inviting hideaway that features tropical decor that mirrors its Botanic Gardens locale. The chia pot with almond milk and bee pollen makes for a lovely start to the day, as does a house-baked scone and pour-over organic coffee.

Niue’s small museum of artifacts of local cultural and historical significance is especially impressive when you consider that much of the original collection was wiped out by the 2004 cyclone. The salvaged items, books, handicrafts and photographs provide insight into the history of the island, its surprising involvement in World War I (when 150 residents fought in Europe alongside troops from New Zealand) and the traditional arts and crafts produced by its people. The museum is open Monday to Friday, 9 a.m.–3 p.m.

In this week’s episode of Travel Tales by AFAR, on a road trip through Canada and Maine, J.R. Harris meditates on a lifetime of adventure—and the enduring power of a great road trip.