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Why we love it: A foodie hideaway from a three-Michelin starred chef

The Highlights:
- A Michelin-starred chef overseeing operations
- Gourmet—yet affordable—fare at the on-site restaurant
- A lovely setting in the Rhine Valley

The Review:
The Rhine Valley village of Fürstenau may officially be the world’s smallest city, but it does boast the famous Schauenstein Schloss restaurant and castle hotel—and, since 2018, this more casual and contemporary option set in the castle’s former stables. Designed by Spanish-born interiors guru Patricia Urquiola, Casa Caminada is, like its parent restaurant and hotel, overseen by Swiss chef Andreas Caminada, who can often be spotted bustling around the property.

Given the hotel’s foodie cred, most guests come for the eats—whether they choose the fine-dining option at the castle or the restaurant at the Casa, which offers similarly elegant Swiss fare at more wallet-friendly prices. Breakfast is included in the room rate and features epic breads from the on-site, traditional-style bakery. After all the great meals—and some bracing hikes along nearby trails—relax in the guesthouse’s garden with a glass of wine, then retire to one of the 10 rooms. While they’re all different sizes and shapes, each is awash in warm woods, simple furnishings, and crisp Italian linens, and equipped with a private balcony that lets the views take center stage.

Built in 1919, the Condado Vanderbilt Hotel is a Spanish Revival landmark, perched majestically above the Atlantic Ocean. From its opulent lobby to its luxurious guestrooms, the property fuses its storied past—it’s hosted everyone from European and Hollywood royalty to captains of industry—with distinctly modern amenities, making for one of San Juan’s best stays. Spread over a historic building and two towers, the 212 guestrooms feature stone-topped vanities, French windows, and ocean views, while the 107 suites include separate sitting and dining areas, L-shaped balconies, and 24-hour butler service. At the beach club and four pools, guests can also look forward to cabanas, personal butlers to bring refreshments, and assistance from a tanning and hydration specialist.

When hunger strikes, the Vanderbilt is prepared with three different dining options. Hit Tacos & Tequila for escabeche pork tacos and Patron margaritas; Ola Oceanfront Bistro for Puerto Rican cuisine and water views; or, if you’re in the mood to splurge, 1919 Restaurant for sophisticated fare by Michelin-starred chef Juan Jose Cuevas. Also on-site is VC Lounge for expertly mixed cocktails, Marabar Martini Bar and Lounge for live jazz, Veritas Wine and Cognac Bar for rare vintages, and Avo Lounge for fine cigars. When you need to detox, head to the spa for indoor–outdoor treatments, rainforest showers, and hammam rituals.

Inaugurated in 1912 by its namesake, the Spanish regent Maria Cristina, this belle epoque landmark has welcomed international elite to its gilded halls from day one. Designed by the same architect behind the Ritz in Paris, the hotel has long been a favorite of celebrities during the San Sebastián Film Festival (Bette Davis was, notably, a fan). A $25 million renovation in 2012 only cemented its status as the city’s most luxurious hotel. With three of the city’s most elegant eateries (including a favorite see-and-be-seen bar), panoramic views of iconic belle epoque buildings and the Urumea River from the many terraces, and signature Luxury Collection concierge service, the Maria Cristina still feels fit for the aristocracy who frequented it in the city’s beach-destination heyday. Spacious and decadent rooms with an updated belle epoque style, as well as a central location within walking distance of many of San Sebastián’s Michelin-starred restaurants, only sweeten the deal.

The Beatles stayed here. Cary Grant stayed here. The Spanish royal family has even stayed here, in their own home city. Can there be any better endorsement?

A grande dame in a city known for drama and extravagance, the Gran Meliá Fénix is exactly the kind of traditionally luxe hotel every European capital needs. An imposing structure presiding over one of Madrid’s main avenues, the hotel’s first impression is topped only by its second: a columned marble lobby worthy of a palace, filled with elegant Louis XVII chairs and crowned with a stained-glass dome. Rooms exude Old World splendor, while Red Level suites take the royal residence atmosphere to the next level, with over-the-top service that includes a private lounge with an open bar, free breakfast, and a private balcony overlooking the city—even though many of the top suites also have scenic private terraces with hot tubs.

As with all opulent institutions, even nonresidents participate in the hotel’s ritzy society scene, courtesy of its acclaimed, art deco–styled brasserie and sultry cocktail bar where, if you order a martini, you’ll receive a numbered certificate in accordance with the automated martini counter over the bar. But, with a scene like this, most guests here don’t worry about counting their martinis.

Melbourne’s market culture is obviously very much alive and, in the case of Queen Victoria Market, has been since the 1870s.


Food stalls to try: Börek; Bratwurst Shop & Co.; American Doughnut Kitchen; Gozleme Turkish Café; Le Croissant des Halles; Pizza by Nature; La Cantina; Sushi Kissaten; Pide Bread Bakery; Spanish Donut Van.

This appeared in the May 2014 issue.

The multifaceted mountaintop town of Safed, located almost 3,000 feet above sea level in Upper Galilee, boasts magnificent views of the Golan Heights, Sea of Galilee, and Lebanon. The city first became prominent when the Crusaders built a fortress on the site. Jews first arrived in considerable numbers after expulsion from Spain in 1492, and Safed became a spiritual center when Kabbalah flourished under rabbis Yitzhak Luria and Joseph Caro. Safed has a thriving artists’ quarter, with studios and galleries filling the narrow alleys, and it hosts an annual klezmer festival. It also maintains a strong religious presence as one of Israel’s four holiest cities.

La Carboneria is a special place. Unlike the tourist spots for flamenco, this feels alive. There is a buzz of energy, a sense of place as friends call out to each other before the show starts, the stone floored room smells of woodsmoke,and the performers have an authentic intensity that makes the evening soar. The performance doesn’t begin until 10:30, and your €5,00 ticket price gets you a €5,00 drink. The drink is not memorable, I dare you to take your eyes off the stage.

Eat dinner like a conquistador at Restaurante Sobrino de Botin. The combination of its central location off Plaza Mayor and its claim to be the “Oldest Restaurant in the World” makes it charming and fun for family and friends. Make sure to put in a reservation in advance and order a traditional dish. I particularly enjoyed the incredibly thin jamon because it was light and not oversalted.

Why we love it: A high-design hotel that merges Old World Lisbon with the modern traveler’s needs

The Highlights:

• Suites that feel more like elegant apartments than hotel rooms
• Natural light and intricately restored ceiling art in event spaces
• Exceptional spa facilities and products

The Review

The second property from Spanish hotel chain H10 offers an oasis amid Lisbon’s city center. Set on a cobblestone street just off Avenida da Liberdade, the restored One Palacio da Anunciada is in a 16th-century palace a short walk from restaurants, cafés, and Bairro Alto nightlife, yet it avoids the clamor that normally comes with such a convenient location.

When revamping the hotel interior during construction, designers and architects preserved as much of the original structure as possible while adding sleek modern touches. Case in point: Upon entering the lobby, guests will see a magnificent marble staircase ahead and an understated library with wireframe bookshelves to the right. Event spaces such as the board room feature intricate crown moldings and ceiling art reminiscent of the classical period, plus large windows that flood the rooms with natural light.

Large windows fill nearly every space with natural light, from the marble-filled lobby to the spa’s indoor pool to the 83 guest rooms. Suites feel more like elegant apartments than hotel rooms. Custom hand-painted ceramics decorate the walls, while gentle lighting and soft edges abound in the bedrooms. On the perimeter of the hotel’s idyllic courtyard and gardens are the exceptional spa and O Jardim Wine Bar, a spot for Portuguese wine and tapas.

Santa Monica is officially on the map with this spectacular property, the second hotel for the Proper brand after its debut in San Francisco in 2017. Like at the first location, celebrity interior designer Kelly Wearstler heads up interiors and has produced an absolute stunner, drawing inspiration from her own Malibu home as well as the hotel’s circa-1928 Spanish Colonial Revival building. (The property actually straddles two buildings; the other half is a sleek new construction, connected by a courtyard and sky bridge to the historic part.) The 271 pet-friendly rooms feature original Kelly Wearstler wallpaper, vintage lamps and tables, and custom-made sunburst headboards that remind you you’re near the beach. Guests can also look forward to roomy bathrooms, complete with travertine marble, full-size Aesop bath products, and super-soft Parachute for Kelly Wearstler robes.

The Grand Central Oyster Bar celebrates its 100th anniversary this year as a New York institution. Located in the lower concourse of Grand Central, it serves over 25 varieties of oysters daily. There is a huge menu of American seafood—chowder, fried clams, lobster rolls, clams casino—whatever you are looking for, they will have it. The Oyster Bar is also famous for its architecture—the beautiful arched tile ceilings are the hallmark of famed Spanish architect Rafael Guastavino, who left his unique stamp across NYC. Take your pick from three different seating areas: a series of old-fashioned, U-shaped counters which seem to be popular with tourists and locals; the oyster bar, which would be perfect for singles or those dining in pairs; and the saloon-type restaurant in the back, popular with the business crowd. Wherever you are sitting, it will be bustling with activity. While there are several other oyster bars in the city, the Grand Central Oyster Bar offers a piece of New York history. It’s like stepping back in time, a retro celebration of old Americana that generations of locals, tourists and travelers have visited over the years. My suggestion is to stop in for fresh oysters and cold beer at the bar.

Few local D.C. residents know about St. Matthews Cathedral, and I would really be surprised if any visitors to D.C. knew about it, since it’s the National Cathedral that gets the mention in the guidebooks. That’s too bad, really, because this tiny Catholic church, with its unassuming exterior, has a glorious interior that few people see and appreciate. (Believe it or not, I get to come here for my Spanish classes.) Although it is a neighborhood church, it’s had its moments in the national spotlight. There have been many funeral services held here for notable people, including President Kennedy. For a cathedral, it has a very small interior—there are only seven chapels. The walls and ceiling are decorated with stunning images of angels and saints, including Matthew, rendered in marble and mosaic. The center dome helps to make the space feel larger. Last, but not least, there is a beautiful organ that is often featured in concerts and recitals; the sound of the music that pours forth from it is amazing! If you are visiting from out of town, I would recommend going to the church in the late morning. Then walk back toward the White House, stopping for lunch in McPherson Square. That’s where some of D.C.’s fleet of food trucks parks every day. Find a spot in the park to eat and enjoy your time in D.C.! The church is located about five blocks north of the White House and is a short walk from the Farragut North Metro station.

Don’t go looking for Casa Grande, the national monument of pre-Columbian ruins, in Casa Grande, the sprawling exurb of a town about halfway between Phoenix and Tucson. You have to drive about 20 miles away to the small town of Coolidge to find the site. This may not be the most scenic stretch of desert, it must be said, but the destination is worth the detour. The Hohokam culture built this complex of dwellings and irrigation canals—one of many—late in their tenure here. Erected in the 1300s, this particular site was abandoned by the mid-1400s—the end of perhaps a thousand years of irrigated agriculture in the Sonoran Desert. The network of villages and canals continue to fascinate archaeologists and urban planners. The “big house” (Casa Grande was named by the first Spanish explorers in the area) stands about four stories tall. In the 1930s, the current shelter was built to protect it from further erosion. (Look carefully: you might catch a glimpse of the resident horned owls.) The timbers needed for construction came from the mountains about 50 miles away; at the time there were no pack animals, and thus no wheeled vehicles in this desert—makes you think... The surrounding ballgame-courts show influence from Mesoamerica. Desert civilization in North America is often thought of as a recent phenomenon—take the 20th-century explosions of Las Vegas, Phoenix, etc. Dig deeper, and get off the interstate. The past is not remote, and this is an easy day trip from Tucson.

When you hear the phrase, “summer in southern Arizona,” naturally your thoughts will tend toward heat and sunshine. Most wouldn’t think of mounds of fresh produce at a farmers’ market in the desert city of Tucson. But the arrival of the monsoon coincides with nature’s edible bounty, even here in the desert. The nearby Santa Cruz valley is actually one of the oldest continually-farmed regions in North America, with agriculture dating back four thousand years! Heirloom beans, squash, chiles, and tomatoes are still grown. The nearby higher elevation lands near Willcox are known for their orchards and even a few vineyards. Mesquite flour is made into cookies and tortillas. Prickly pear cactus is made into jams and frozen treats. All this is available throughout the week at various farmers’ markets around Tucson. The biggest one is on Sunday morning in the neo-colonial courtyards of St. Philip’s Plaza. And, if you’re curious, you’ll get language and cooking lessons, too. On a recent Sunday morning, my wife and I asked what some curious looking greens were. The answer? Purslane, or “verdolagas” in Spanish. They grow like weeds once the monsoon rains begin, and they contain more omega-3 fatty acids (think fish oil) than any other leafy plant. In a salad, or sautéed or stewed, they’re great. Who knew? Farmers’ markets are always a great place to get a vibe for a city—a cross section of people and produce. And, even in the desert, it is possible to shop and eat local.

Cuatro Cienegas has got to be one of the coolest places on the planet earth! It is certainly not like any other place or ecosystem I have ever visited and I would have never imagined you could find paradise in the middle of the Chihuahuan desert. “Cuatro Cienegas” means “four marshes” in Spanish and at one point in history this place was a wetland. The pools, called pozas, are scattered throughout the desert around the town. Some of the pools are warm and some of them are freezing cold! They are a blast to swim and snorkel in! Cuatro Ciénegas is an official Mexican biological reserve because the ecosystem has unique fauna and flora that can’t be found any other place in the world! NASA stated that the biological reserve of Cuatro Cienegas could have strong links to discovering life on Mars, since the adaptability of bioforms in the region was unique in the world. How far out is that? Some refer to Cuatro Cienegas as the “Galapagos of Mexico”. Be sure you also check out the Gypsum Dunes that are also located here. This place is a geologist’s dream! I would recommend staying at Quinta Santa Cecilia during your visit, and although many of the pozas are mapped and marked you are better off hiring a local guide to take you to the best spots. Cecilia or the management of your hotel can assist here. The drug battles in this part of Mexico continue to dominate the press, but we did not feel unsafe during our visit here.