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A Guide to the Istanbul Biennial’s Most Unusual Installations

Overview

If you think a flying sleigh is weird, get a load of these Christmas myths.

On a sailboat cruise through Indonesia, a father and son forge a deeper bond.

A beach villa in the Bahamas gives two couples a taste of island life.

In stalls crowded with the freshest seafood, sweetest chilies, and spiciest tacos, one writer eats his way to the heart of the metropolis.

AFAR chose a destination at random and sent the poet Beth Ann Fennelly with 24-hours’ notice to a Central American paradise.

Chris Colin experiences a Caribbean paradise from both sides of a resort’s walls.

Mixologist Tony Devencenzi of San Francisco’s Bourbon and Branch share his highlights from Mexico.

From the island that brought you the piña colada, could you expect anything short of fabulous for Puerto Rico’s other refreshing drinks? Natural and exotic fruits grow year round in Puerto Rico’s lush tropical habitat. Coconuts galore, homemade fruity ice cream frappes and so much more. Here are Puerto Rico’s best smoothies, snow cones, just-roasted coffee, and all sorts of local sips.

Beyond the beach, the billboards, and the freeways, there’s a city of neighborhoods waiting to be explored.

Kennedy Park is located in Coconut Grove, right on the water with a view of the open bay, an outdoor gym including a green ladder you can climb up and down, a running path on an outdoor track, and a children’s play area. Looking to relax afterward? Grab a frozen lemonade or piña colada from the A.C.’s Icees truck or relax on a wooden dock by the water.

Guavate, a section of Cayey better known as the Ruta del Lechon (“Pork Highway”), bursts into a rush of food-infused ecstasy every Friday and Saturday. People from all parts of the island come to watch someone roast a whole pig over the open fire before chopping it with a machete. Side dishes abound. I recommend sorrullos (corn sticks), bacalaitos (cod fritters), alcapurrias (fritters made of plantain dough and stuffed with meat), and rice with different types of beans. The blood sausage is not for me, but my father and boyfriend devour it every chance they get. Here in the mountains, shacks of all sizes let you pick your poison—beer, piña colada, or mojito (made from lime, mint leaves, rum, and sugar)—and drink to the beat of salsa and reggateon music. This creates the euphoric atmosphere for which Puerto Ricans are so famous. The cherry on top of the piña colada: Guavate lets you absorb the laughter, music, and food for a reasonable price. If you want the pig, but not the rambunctiousness, take your food to El Yunque National Forest and eat it by a waterfall (see my “Swimming Under a Hidden Waterfall” highlight). To find it, get on Luis A. Ferre Expressway, take the exit toward PR-184, and follow the signs for Guavate. You’ll start seeing pork soon after you take PR-184, but wait about fifteen minutes (until you’re around km 27) before you stop to get all the real action.

With its thatched roof, bamboo bar, and surfboard decor, this beloved watering hole—often voted Maui’s best bar by locals—checks all the tiki boxes. Head here for live music, lanai seating, and late-night dancing, plus fun and fruity rum cocktails like mai tais, zombies, daiquiris, and piña coladas. Beyond its drinks, South Shore Tiki Lounge was recognized by the state of Hawaii as an outstanding business for its regular fund-raising efforts, which benefit local organizations like the Keiki Cupboard, Hawaii Wildlife Fund, Maui Humane Society, and Hawaii Animal Rescue Foundation. All that to say, you can feel good coming here to wash down a massive chili-cheese hot dog with a lychee-watermelon martini.

You may not expect to find the world’s best frozen pina colada at a joint hidden behind a gas station and underneath a condo unit, but that’s where to order the drink—lovingly dubbed the “Erik Estrada” and mixed with coconut milk and spices with a dash of Angostura bitters—and that’s how co-owner T.J. Lynch rolls. He took the hidden-gem aesthetic from his New York bar, Mother’s Ruin, and translated to the laid-back vibe of Folly Beach. In addition to the island’s best cocktails, Lowlife’s loyal following saddle up at the indoor/outdoor bar for the Old Bay-dusted local shrimp roll, the bold, rich tuna poke, and the Duke’s mayo-doused, addictive double cheeseburger.