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Overview

Wandering Chef: Fabio Viviani in Amsterdam

Wandering Chef: Dominique Crenn in Paris

Chef Gabrielle Hamilton meets the independent winemakers who bottle the flavor of Sicily.

Copenhagen (and Denmark) are famous for being incredibly environmentally friendly. Windmills play a huge role in making that possible. One of the best places to see the large windmills installed just off Copenhagen’s coast is from the beach at Amager Beach Park. I find that the fact that they are marine windmills makes them even cooler and more fascinating than those installed on land.

Standing in Plaza Congreso, you might find yourself staring up at the Moulin Rouge-like windmill adorning an Art Nouveau building on the corner. Approaching the door, you’ll see it’s covered in cobwebs - this architectural landmark, once a glamorous cafe where politicians had coffee and tea between meetings, has been abandoned for years. Confiteria El Molino (‘el molino’ means ‘windmill’) has been closed since 1996, though local activists keep pushing to fund its restoration. So far, it hasn’t happened, and the fairy tale-like building on the corner adds an eerie ghostly feel to the busy urban intersection.

Unexpected surprises abound in Amsterdam. On the city’s east side, you’ll find one denoted by a tall windmill: Brouwerij ‘t IJ (the IJ Brewery), a small brewery and pub situated in the former Funen bathhouse, next to the De Gooyer windmill. Opened in1985 by former musician Kaspar Peterson, Brouweij ‘t Ij prides itself on a large selection of unfiltered, non-pasteurized beers and seasonal offerings. All are certified organic and made on the premises. Belly up to the bar next to the big mill and order your beer from a chilled tank. Follow the scent of hops onto the large outdoor terrace, where you can enjoy your brew with an order of peanuts, boiled eggs, abbey-made cheese, salami, ossenworst from Slagerij de Wit or Skeapsrond cheese from Dikhoeve Farm. The adjacent pub serves more substantial meals, as well as drinks and snacks. In addition to beer, Brouwerij ‘t Ij’s menu includes wine and non-alcoholic beverages. Guided tours are offered on weekends.

On the banks of the river Zaan, time stopped three centuries ago at Zaanse Schans. In this recreation of a Dutch village in the 17th–18th centuries, stroll down streets lined with typical green wooden houses, manicured gardens and graceful bridges. Poke into tradesmen’s workshops, historic windmills and tiny boutiques. See how wooden clogs are made and watch pewter jewelry fashioned before your eyes. Discover how artisanal Dutch cheese is crafted and purchase a wheel of Gouda or Edam to take home. Refuel with coffee and apple pie in one of numerous restaurants within the village. Explore a few museums and round off your visit with a boat trip on the river. Although several museums at Zaanse Schans charge for admission, there’s no entry fee at the popular tourist attraction created by relocating houses, windmills, storehouses and barns to form a replica of a typical Zaanse village. Alongside clusters of windmills, characteristic wooden houses and unique shops, traditional Dutch crafts are showcased and the lifestyles of people who lived in Holland long before sex, drugs and rock ‘n’ roll entered the picture are revealed.

Sister restaurant to local favorite Serpico’s in Upcountry, this sweet, welcoming spot serves New Jersey–style pizza in an old plantation-style house in West Maui. Tourists dine here, sure, but Prison Street isn’t overrun with overpriced rum cocktails or macadamia-crusted everything. Instead, the pizzeria keeps things simple with subtle nautical decor—a nod to Lahaina’s past as a whaling port—and thin-crust pies in variations like barbecue chicken, Philly cheesesteak, and the Windmills, a curiously named mix of Italian ingredients like pesto, mozzarella, and roasted red peppers. Also available are subs, salads, and calzones, all of which can be delivered if you need a break from dining out one night.

Go Dutch with breakfast at this beachfront spot, located next to Aruba’s iconic red windmill. Here, the menu is written on a chalkboard and features all manner of sweet and savory pancakes, from apple-cinnamon-banana to Norwegian and Dutch cheese with ham. There are even some gluten-free options. Just don’t expect American-style flapjacks—the house specialty is more of a thick crepe. Whatever you choose, pair it with preservative-free syrup from Holland and your pick from the never-ending coffee list.

Beyond tulips, windmills, and weed, Amsterdam’s global image is entwined with water. The Canal Ring (Grachtengordel) is made up of 165 fluid channels developed during the 17th-century Dutch Golden Age. In the ensuing years, the water network has supported maritime trade while evolving into a centerpiece of one of the world’s most recognizable urban landscapes. In 2013, on its 400th birthday, UNESCO added the Grachtengordel to its list of World Heritage sites. Today the Canal Ring is both a historic transportation system and a stunning backdrop for local festivals and celebrations. The canals, notably Prinsengracht, are packed with partygoers on annual festivals like King’s Day (formerly Queen’s Day), in April, as well as Gay Pride and Grachtenfestival in August. Canal cruises offer an excellent introduction to city sights and are a great way to see Amsterdam.

While the little mermaid is good for what she is, just about everyone who sees her finds her...well...small. It shouldn’t be a surprise for something that is quite literally called the LITTLE mermaid, but somehow she often still disappoints. What makes the trip out to see her well worthwhile, however, is Kastellet, which is located immediately behind her. This star fortress dates back to the 1600s, still serves as an active military complex, and is one of the best preserved star fortresses left in Europe. No matter what time of year it is, a walk along the fortress’s ramparts is well worth it. The views over the canals are gorgeous, and there are a number of old canons left lying about for photos. You’ll also find one of Copenhagen‘s only remaining windmills. Don’t just explore the ramparts, also head down and look at the historic buildings that fill the interior of the fortress. With their brightly colored paint, tiny windows, and age-weary walls, they’re perfect for a photo.

When waterways in the Netherlands freeze into glittering paths, overjoyed residents take to the ice. Visitors can buy or rent a pair of noren (traditional long-blade skates) to glide across town or take part in one of the country’s dozens of tochten, organized tours or races held throughout the nation’s 2,200 miles of canals. Check the local newspaper or the website Schaatsen.nl for route announcements. Ice skating along the frozen lanes also provides a chance to marvel at how the canals have shaped the landscape. Because a quarter of the Netherlands lies below sea level, the Dutch have relied on drainage systems to keep their heads above water. Skate the molentocht, or mill tour, in the UNESCO World Heritage site of Kinderdijk (pictured) to see 19 windmills that once pumped water from the lowlands into the surrounding reservoirs. The historic village about 15 miles from Rotterdam is a peaceful setting for one of the country’s favorite winter pastimes. If you travel to Kinderdijk to skate the molentocht, reserve a room at the Pincoffs Suite Hotel in Rotterdam. Stieltjesstraat 34, 31/(0) 10-297-4500. This appeared in the November/December 2012 issue.

On the site of a former brick windmill in what is today central Auckland, an old Sheraton tower underwent a $9 million renovation in 2006 to become one of the city’s most luxurious hotels: the Cordis. Across the common spaces and 411 guestrooms, this property is draped in fine silks and velvets, appointed with antiques fit for royalty, and crowned by gilded dome ceilings and chandeliers. It’s a popular meeting place for the corporate elite, featuring a striking ballroom that seats 860 people, banquet style. High-tech conferencing equipment and an in-house audio-visual team create a seamless experience, which has helped the hotel earn Earth Check certification. When work is complete, there are ample options for unwinding, from the high tea at the elegant lobby lounge—a more delicate version of the London lobby—and the Chuan Spa, which specializes in traditional Chinese medicine. Also on site is an exclusive Club Lounge, a fitness studio, a swimming pool, and the renowned Eight restaurant, which offers an interactive dining experience with eight specialist kitchens, each dedicated to a different cuisine and led by an expert chef.