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From the luxury Oetker Collection, Le Bristol is one of the first hotels in France to obtain Palace distinction. Occupying nearly an entire block on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré near the Élysée presidential palace, this soulful property has been a gathering place for Parisians since 1925. The 190 guest rooms, which feel like private apartments, are decorated with precious fabrics, paintings, and 18th-century antiques. The on-site attractions include a spa by Le Prairie, a teak-lined pool resembling a yacht, and a courtyard garden fragrant with jasmine. For more than a decade, chef Eric Frechon has held three Michelin stars at Epicure, where menu fixtures include the macaroni stuffed with black truffle and foie gras. Frechon’s culinary dominions are a portal into French gastronomy itself: The hotel has its own chocolate factory, cheese cellar, flour mill, and boulangerie.

Two architectural wonders helped put Dubai on the map: the Burj Al Arab hotel, which resembles the sail of a ship out on the gulf waters, and the Palm Jumeirah, a residential development on a manmade archipelago that fans out in the shape of a huge palm tree. But in 2010, the sleek Burj Khalifa stole their thunder. Now the world’s tallest structure, the tower soars 830 meters (2,722 feet) into the sky. Visitors can zoom by elevator up to the 124th floor to experience incredible views and explore interactive displays on Dubai’s history and the tale behind the building of this futuristic marvel. Another observation deck is even higher, on the 148th floor.

Landing in heat-soaked Kuala Lumpur after being on the road for 24 hours can be disorienting. Incessant chanting (“vei vel shakti vel”), monkeys screeching, wafting incense, a glorious moon, and a million people.


Thaipusam falls on a full moon and is the celebration in remembrance of Lord Murugan (his statue pictured at the base of the steep 272 steps to the Waterfall Temple at Batu Caves - the top being the best view) who received the “vel” (sacred spear) from his mother, Shiva’s wife, to kill three demons. Killing internal demons seems to be the order of the day for devotees.


The festivities begin with a chariot bearing the statue of Lord Murugan being drawn through the streets starting from Sri Maha Mariamman Temple and then on the second day (when I arrived), the fulfilling of the vows by devotees takes place at the Batu Caves after people walk barefoot approximately 15 kilometers starting in the middle of the night from Kuala Lumpur. The chariot returns to the Temple on the third day.


The real highlight is watching devotees with huge decorated frames (“kavadi”= burden”) supported by spikes that pierce their chests and backs as penance for answered prayers. As one devotee said to me, “Life is an act of gratitude and this is the ultimate day of gratitude to our deities.” I felt a deep empathy for the intense devotion and commitment of the Tamil Hindus I witnessed. This is truly one of the world’s great festivals of purification and atonement.

Vancouver’s most famous urban space, the thousand-acre Stanley Park, epitomizes everything that locals here love about the outdoors, and visitors have many ways to explore the expansive grounds. Hiking trails weave around totem poles and hemlock trees, while at the beaches, you can swim, people-watch and picnic. Rent a bike or a pair of in-line skates for a scenic ride along the Seawall, or wander through the many gardens where rhododendrons, azaleas and roses bloom.

A who-knows-how-happily-married Diego Rivera commissioned this three-residence compound from Mexican artist and architect Juan O’Gorman in 1931. Jarringly Bauhausian for its time (especially in comparison to the surrounding San Ángel neighborhood’s mission revival gentility), it included separate buildings for Diego and his wife, Frida Kahlo, connected by a slender bridge (as well as a third dwelling for O’Gorman). Visits lead to interiors, showcasing Rivera’s studio and its fascinating collection of artworks, creative infrastructure, and amazing windows. Take time to wander the garden and pause to appreciate the property’s tableaux; then re-tox from all the aesthetic purity across the road at the San Ángel Inn, a gloriously indulgent hacienda bar and restaurant that takes you straight back to the country club—flawless margaritas and all.

A devastating fire on April 15, 2019, has closed the interior of the cathedral to visitors. Plans to rebuild and reopen the structure are being made, but at present, visitors are not allowed near the site.
For a first-time visitor to Notre Dame, investing in the audio guide is essential to understand this overwhelmingly significant Paris icon. There’s a lot to see and absorb—history, architecture, artifacts, theology—and the audio guide gives a much-needed sense of direction and context. Even without spiritual ties, the awe-inspiring grandeur of the cathedral is not to be missed from every angle—tour the naves, stroll around the entirety of the exterior, take in the city from the top of the towers, walk along Quai de Montebello to view it from across the water, or admire it from a river cruise down the Seine. The Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris is everything everyone says it is and more.

Grand Turk has some of the world’s top dive spots with clear deep-blue water and an intoxicating and diverse underwater world to explore. Novice and experienced enthusiasts should book a few days at Bohio Dive Resort to experience the best the island has to offer underwater – from swim through mazes to deep trenches. At Bohio dives are catered specifically to guests needs, and if you don’t have PADI certification you can either get it here (definitely not a bad spot to earn your stripes) or sign up for a novice intro dive that doesn’t take you deep enough to hurt yourself. Visibility here averages about 100-feet, which is excellent, and thanks to a beachfront location that drops-off into the mile-deep Columbus Passage just 300 yards offshore, diving here doesn’t require a boat ride. Experienced divers, however, will want to pop onto the boat to explore dramatic wall dives and historic wrecks, not to mention bountiful marine life, located just a short boat ride from the resort. Additionally, the resort offers accommodation, dining and a range of activities from horseback riding to kayaking.

One of the most popular atolls to visit, Arno is reachable by a 45-minute boat ride from Majuro. It offers white-sand beaches and waters with plenty of marine life—including sharks. There’s a simple cabin to rent for overnight stays and a tiny snack shop (it’s a good idea to bring your own food and water, as well as mosquito repellent). If you’re lucky (or ask nicely), the friendly locals may make you some coconut crab.

The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes. ~ Marcel Proust. For my inaugural highlight on AFAR, I am starting with my wife’s favorite quote, and a local sight in Chicago. Sometimes people feel they must jet off to some far off exotic place in order to ‘travel.’ However, if you gaze anew at your immediate surroundings with fresh eyes, you will discover an entire host of wonderful surprises. Here we have Cloud Gate, located down in Millennium Park, back before they buffed out the seams. The contrast between the organic form of ‘the bean’ and the structured grid lines, along with the warped fun house mirror quality of the city, makes this a truly unique destination.

Iceland’s largest and most famous geothermal spa lies around an hour outside Reykjavik, quite close to Keflavik Airport. With a dramatic setting amidst large black lava boulders, the steam-filled, creamy-blue pool area is a striking and surreal sight. The Blue Lagoon has been open since the 1980s and today draws some 700,000 visitors a year. The pools are actually created by heated seawater that flows from the adjacent geothermal power station. The waters allegedly cure all manner of skin-related ailments (eczema, psoriasis), but whether these claims are true or not, it’s certainly an atmospheric place to unwind, with very comfortable (99 degrees Fahrenheit) temperatures. The complex includes a small bar that dispenses healthy juices and beer, as well as a spa area for massages andbeauty treatments, and a very good restaurant; there’s also an upscale hotel if you wish to stay overnight.

Just a short trip from Innsbruck, the Stubaital is beautiful valley that is perfect for unwinding in one of the most parts of Tyrol. This unspoiled landscape is filled with cool streams and lush Alpine fauna, along with a few charming little villages like Mieders and Neustift im Stubaital. The beautiful Grawa waterfall is also nearby and a highlight of any hike.

This restaurant’s name hints at one of its principal attributes: its view. “Mirador” means “scenic overlook,” and the vista here—of Lake Suchitlán-- earns the name. In fact, many of the guests stop by the restaurant on their way to or from a day trip to the lake itself. Cormorants and other large birds swoop gracefully across the sky as diners indulge in churrasco steaks and other Salvadoran specialties.

Once upon a time Lund was one of the most important towns in Denmark. These days, it’s one of the most charming towns in Sweden with its cobbled streets, flower-filled parks, and medieval buildings. Towering over everything is the Lund Cathedral, a Romanesque cathedral which was consecrated in 1145 and includes a huge astronomical clock created around 1380.

It wasn’t until 1658 that the region, Skåne, became part of Sweden. Visitors can descend into the crypt, where the most popular attraction is a column bearing a sculpture of Finn, a giant who reportedly helped build the cathedral.

This spectacular waterfall, located a 20-minute drive from the town center, makes a pleasant side trip. A short five-minute jungle walk along a trail leads visitors to the waterfall. Swim in the natural pool at the waterfall’s base or even dive from its top, if you’re brave enough. There are some small beaches too, so you can bring a picnic and hang out for a while. Trips can be organized through some hotels or via a local taxi guide, so don’t be surprised if you’re joined by others.

A local’s suggestion landed me on Maazgoon’s terrace, a vibrant spot right next door to the Diocletian Palace in Split.

The crew at the restaurant is passionate about modern takes on Mediterranean dishes; food that is all about the best ingredients and, important in my book, food that hasn’t been overworked, or ‘touched too much’.

Go there hungry. I had some whicked tuna sashimi there, and a traditionally prepared octopus in a skillet. They paired a crisp local white with it...and off to heaven I went. My mouth is watering, just writing about it.

They have a saying at Maazgoon: ‘We believe that the whole universe can fit on a plate’. Well, they sure fit a perfect week in Croatia on mine. And that’s a wrap.

>>>Warm thanks to Alan Mandić from Secret Dalmatia, for organizing a truly memorable, and off the beaten path trip for our curious and insatiable group of travelers, and to the Hotel Cornaro for accommodations in Split.