Search results for

Once the general summer tourist season finishes, a different and more sombre sort of tourism begins in Belgium. Autumn is a time of remembrance and there is no more poignant place to remember the Great War than the Flemish city of Ypres. Ypres (or Ieper, in Dutch) is home to the Menin Gate. The enormous marble walls of this monument contain the names of 54,896 Commonwealth soldiers who have no known grave. Every evening at 8pm, buglers close the road leading to the gate and perform the Last Post. Each year, on Remembrance Day (November 11), thousands of poppy petals are dropped through the ceiling of the Menin Gate and flutter to the ground below. Also well worth visiting is the In Flanders Fields Museum, which tells the story of the soldiers and local residents who lived during the war, through interactive displays. Mixed in with the photographs, the history, the artefacts, and displays, there are quotes from soldiers, wives and parents, politicians, and writers. Several short films also illustrate the impact of the war on the area, the people, and the soldiers. Ypres is an easy day-trip from Brussels, by car or train, and is an un-missable destination, particularly during the autumn, Remembrance Day season. For More Information: http://cheeseweb.eu/2011/06/ypres-world-war-museums/

Ascona, on the shores of Lake Maggiore, has swaying palm trees and a mild climate, and is Switzerland‘s lowest-lying town (643 feet above sea level). The lakeside promenade (Lungolago) offers a Mediterranean feel with streetside cafés, warm breezes, and diners clinking wineglasses—all with a backdrop of historic 19th-century merchants’ houses. The town, a former fishing village, has become an upscale resort town—known for its water sports as well as some of the best hotels in the country. Ascona’s old town center, the Borgo, is a warren of charming alleyways and chic boutiques.

Despite its size (10 square miles) and population (fewer than 170 permanent residents), Little Cayman enjoys a worldwide reputation among serious divers. The island is renowned for its exceptional underwater visibility and vertigo-inducing walls, especially north-shore Bloody Bay. Dive boats flock to Three Fathom Wall, where bulbous coral heads teeming with fish rise to within 10 feet of the surface. Snorkelers are likely to encounter schools of blue tang and stoplight parrot fish, as well as hawksbill turtles and nurse sharks.

O’Donoghue’s Bar, which dates back to the eighteenth century, is arguably the most famous pub in Dublin for traditional Irish music. The bar is lively, rammed with a mainly—but by no means exclusively—local crowd, and has a great, welcoming atmosphere. There is a huge beer garden, and on busy nights there will be someone serving the tables outside. The main draw, of course, is the live traditional music, which kicks off mid-evening seven days a week. Unlike many other venues that boast live trad and there is no sense that the music at O’Donoghue’s is a performance put on for the tourists. In fact it’s quite the opposite: you get the feeling the musicians are playing solely for themselves, and don’t care whether you listen or not. Which is lucky, really—the night we were there the bar was so crowded, and the conversation so raucous, that you had to get really close to hear the music. If you’re a fan of, or curious about, traditional Irish music, O’Donoghue’s is definitely a place to check out. And make sure to keep your eyes open as well as your ears: such local musical luminaries as the Dubliners and Christy Moore have been known to swing by in the past!

A tour of St. Nicholas Abbey is a chance to explore one of the finest so-called great houses of Barbados. Not an actual abbey, the well-preserved Jacobean plantation mansion in the northern parish of St. Peter dates from the mid-17th century and is filled with antiques. On the mahogany tree–dotted manicured grounds, visitors can also see the old steam mill and rum distillery that are still in operation; the output from the latter, and other local products, are sold in the gift shop.

The Diamond Deluxe is a multifaceted property that offers a laid-back take on European upscale properties in paradise. The main feature of the place is a idyllic collection of large pools that cluster within its center. Bridges crisscross these expanses of blue leading the way to beautiful boxes basking under the bright Grecian sky. I recently stayed in one of the Diamond Suites which also comes with it’s own decent sized private pool. (Though gardeners were prone to passing by at odd times of day.) The room was well outfitted with spacious showers, plush beds, and competent air conditioning. (In contrast to the high temperatures outside, the internet was positively glacial. Pretty much unusable.) Being prone to typical Euro qualities, don’t expect the best dining experiences or consistent service. (Some employees were great! Others, not so much.) Alcohol is also best procured elsewhere if you’re hoping for a late night by the room. Oh and on some sites I’ve read it was “overlooking one of Kos’s best beaches.” This couldn’t be further from the truth. You will need to travel to get to a great beach. I recommend renting a car. Driving is easy on Kos. All that said, the property to beautiful, bright, blue, and best enjoyed with a laid-back attitude.

Leave it to the coolest, hippest country on the planet to come up with a cool concept like that. Sweden, you keep surprising me. Imagine a ultra-modern record shop in the heart of a touristy, busy medieval square. Imagine a mouth-watering café that offers cakes each more delicious than the other, and a plethora of imported coffee. Imagine a fabulous soundtrack, that goes from the classic grunge hits to the indie Swedish hits. This place is called Folk A Rock - it’s an ode to rock music that shares a passion with traditional fika and appreciates the beauty of its historical neighborhood. I’ve never seen anything quite like it - not that I would expect to. Sweden, in all things fashion, music, and, well, just about anything really, has a secret recipe for these types of things that few can rival. These über, effortlessly cool types of things. One one hand, it kind of makes you want to hate Sweden and remain green with envy. But on the other hand, the result is always way too fun to overlook, especially in the case of Folk A Rock. If you’re an indie music lover with a sweet tooth, this may just be your heaven on Earth.

São Paulo has a thriving culture scene that can be seen in its museums, craft fairs, graffitti, and artsy shops. If you spend a Sunday there, be sure to head over to São Paulo’s main avenue, Avenida Paulista, for a three-part cultural experience. First, the Museu de Arte de São Paulo (São Paulo Museum of Art, or MASP) is well worth a visit. It houses Latin America’s finest collection of Western art, including pieces by Picasso, Rembrandt, Monet, and other European masters. The museum also houses excellent temporary exhibits. If you’re hungry, you can eat at the museum’s cafeteria or wait and get snacks at the nearby crafts market. As you leave, spend some time perusing the huge antiques market that takes place every Sunday under the museum. Then cross the street and wander the “feira,” or crafts market, for typical Brazilian crafts (some of which are quite expensive) and good street food. Finish up with a stroll in the adjacent Parque Trianon, where musicians often play on Sundays. MASP is open 10-6. Admission is about $8 and $3.50 for students. Parking is available in lots and garages on side streets, and the metro station is Trianon.

La Catedral is actually three churches in one, each of which are exquisite. It is decorated in the Baroque style, with more gilt and gold trimming than you can imagine. In order to convert the Incan people to Catholicism, the Spanish used symbols from Incan religion throughout the church. Look for the hundreds of mirrors, as well as the triangle shape associated with the Mountain God. La Catedral hosts a couple of particularly unique pieces, including a Peruvian rendition of the Last Supper featuring a guinea pig as the main dish. El Señor de Los Temblores is a crucifix that stopped the Cuzco earthquake of 1650, and is featured prominently in the cathedral. Pictures are not allowed inside, but the exterior of La Catedral is picturesque both during the day and at night when it’s lit up with the rest of La Plaza de Armas.

From the moment the smiling doorman ushered us into the sleek, burnished lobby of the Bulgari, my sister and I felt like a couple of celebrities taking a discreet trip to the capital city. The type of luxury you get here is of a very distinct kind: a feeling that no expense has been spared in the gleaming dark wood of the corridors and the glow of gold tile around the spa; the soft, low lighting throughout the hotel made us feel like we were in a place that values discretion and sophistication above all things. The service was fantastic—reminiscent of the policy of the famous Harrods, opposite, that no matter how bizarre the customer’s request, they will do their very best to fulfill it. And as for the rooms—well, my sister said she’d never slept in a better bed in her life. And that seems to sum up the Bulgari ethos: Whether it’s the food or the spa treatments or simply having a bath in the gorgeous marble bathroom, they want it to be the best experience you’ve ever had of that kind.

Why we love it: A 19th-century palazzo-turned-boutique-hotel that’s full of sophisticated details

The Highlights:
- Historic details like restored tiles, antique furniture, and traditional Maltese wooden balconies
- Guestrooms with deep-soaking tubs or Jacuzzis
- A central location just off Valletta’s main drag

The Review:
Formerly home to the Ellul family, this Victorian-period palazzo is now an exceedingly charming boutique stay that’s a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World. Fourth-generation brothers Matthew and Andrew Ellul converted the property, which sits on a quiet but easily accessible side street, into nine luxurious guestrooms, each uniquely decorated with restored Maltese tiles, wrought iron accents, richly hued rugs, and antiques sourced from around the world. Rooms also feature original works by local artist Ritty Tacsum as well as either a private terrace or traditional Maltese wooden balcony. One suite even has a piano, while several others boast free-standing bathtubs or Jacuzzis. In keeping with the Casa Ellul’s family-owned ethos, service here is friendly and personalized, making guests feel as if they’re staying in a friend’s home.

Perched over the river that runs through downtown Chattanooga, the Tennessee Aquarium offers a novel way to discover the magic of sea life. Exhibits here trace the path from mountain streams to the sea, showcasing aquatic animals in representations of their natural habitats. In the ocean display, visitors can see exotic fish gliding over multicolored coral reef formations, but the most popular attractions are the river otters cavorting in cascading waterfalls, and the penguins diving in and out of their cold-water habitat. The aquarium also features thousands of insects that flutter from flower to flower in the butterfly garden, as well as a gigantic IMAX 3-D theater that screens fascinating movies about nature and science.

Named after the Latin word for “harbor,” Hotel Hafnia sits in the center of Old Town Tórshavn, just steps from the wharf and Faroese Parliament buildings. Surrounded by shops and restaurants, the property offers a convenient location, as well as comfortable accommodations. All rooms feature satellite TV, mini bars, and free Wi-Fi, while some larger options include seating areas and complimentary access to the hotel sauna. Book a renovated Nordic Double room for a modern color scheme, stylish furniture, and puffin murals, or one of the hotel’s three self-catering cottages, which showcase old Faroese architecture, kitchenettes, and attics with additional beds.

In addition to a warm, welcoming lobby with couches draped in sheepskin, the hotel offers a top-floor conference facility with sweeping views of the city. There are also three dining options on site, from a namesake restaurant (popular for its breakfast buffet with locally sourced ingredients) to Kafe Kaspar (for bagels, salads, and home-baked items) and Katrina Christiansen (serving a tapas-inspired menu in a historic setting). Note that Hotel Hafnia does not have parking facilities and, while there are some public spaces outside the hotel, they’re limited to 30 minutes on weekdays.

Located in the wine-growing region of Oberbergen, this long-running restaurant earned a Michelin star way back in 1969—and has held firmly to it ever since. Owner Fritz Keller’s family has been producing and importing wines since the 19th century, and Schwarzer Adler is very much an oenophile’s spot, with a list that spans around 2,500 labels (including bottles from the Keller estate as well as other European wines, with a focus on Burgundy and Bordeaux). The Francophile menu—designed by long-standing chef Anibal Strubinger (who continues to support the team alongside new head chef Christian Baur)—perfectly complements the wines, with dishes like liver pâté, lobster, and poulet Bresse with black truffles. Adding to the food’s classic feel, the dining rooms are old-fashioned and intimate, with wood-paneled walls and vintage tiled stoves. Service is friendly and efficient, and there’s a small terrace for dining outdoors in nice weather.

At just over 540 yards, Długi Targ, which translates to “the Long Market,” isn’t really all that lengthy. Still, it makes for a lovely walk, stretching from the Green Gate at its eastern entrance through the medieval city of Gdańsk to the Golden Gate at its western end. Lined with cafés, restaurants, and souvenir shops worth a stop, the route is also home to picturesque architecture, including historic tenement houses that were renovated after World War II. Be sure to stop at the elaborate 17th-century Neptune Fountain (which represents Gdańsk’s ties to the sea) and, just behind it, the 15th-century Artus Court (a medieval hall fantastically decorated with hunting trophies and models of tall ships hung from the ceiling). A tiny detour down Kramarska Lane behind Artus Court will take you to St. Mary’s, the largest brick church in the world. In this enormous space, which can accommodate as many as 25,000 people, you’ll find a 500-year-old, 25-foot-high astronomical clock, as well as several Baroque statues of angels playing musical instruments. If you’re not afraid of heights, consider climbing the 409 steps to the top of the church tower.