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When in Antigua, definitely stop by the Casa Santa Domingo. First off, this place ain’t no ordinary casa! It is a large hotel (convention center, spa, museum etc) but executed well. There is a lot of history and guides standing out front would happily show you around. We were in the mood for just soaking it up on our own. You will enjoy the colorful tropical birds, the beautiful fountain and the historic ruins. It was the bastion of one of the grandest convents of the Americas (according to them.) If you like every amenity at your fingertips then this is the place for you in Antigua. At the very least stroll the grounds and have a Gallo, Guatemala’s national beer.

This twin-peaked headland—and the ruins of the 18th-century Fort Shirley garrison—preside over Prince Rupert’s Bay, Dominica’s largest wetlands and a docking area for smaller cruise ships. An 1802 revolt here led to the British Empire abolishing all slave soldiers, making this Dominica’s most important historic destination—and now a worthy World Heritage site. A short climb leads to the restored buildings and a splendid viewpoint, complete with cannons. Longer trails spike out into the dry coastal woodlands, populated by crabs and grass snakes (Liophis juliae, known locally as kouwes).

Located in the northern mountain ranges of Dominica, Morne Diablotin National Park was established primarily to protect the habitat of the endangered sisserou parrot. Spanning 8,242 acres, the park is also home to Dominica’s highest peak, which looms at an impressive 4,747 feet. While the active volcano still keeps hot springs bubbling, its higher elevations are constantly swathed in cool mist, along with cloud forest moss, ferns, and spindly trees. Start your exploration on the Syndicate Natural Trail, which winds through tropical rain forest and serves as a prime birding location.

Explore underwater arches, tunnels, and grottos at this north island dive site—one of Dominica’s most popular descents. Here, blackbar soldierfish and glasseye sweepers patrol a sweep of exceptionally healthy hard and soft corals. Make sure to look down, where a fumarole releases bubbles on the ocean floor. Suitable for all levels, Toucari Caves has a max depth of 38 feet.

Dominica’s most established contemporary artist, Earl Darius Etienne produces social realist paintings, often made with smoke and soot. One of his more famous works, the Massacre Mural, is a bright, in-your-face depiction of British troops slaughtering the indigenous Kalinago people. Check out his masterpieces at various island galleries, including his own Art Asylum in Mahaut.

Two of Dominica’s top scuba sites snuggle together in southwestern Soufrière Bay: La Sorcière (Witches Point) and, just to its north, L’Abym (the Abyss). Both are dramatic wall dives, poised between steep topside cliffs and a submerged crater. While divers often see turtles here, you should also keep an eye out for frogfish, seahorses, and flying gurnards amid the orange elephant ear sponges, bright as prison jumpsuits.

With a bakery on every other corner in even the tiniest villages in Belgium, what makes one stand out more than another? The answer is threefold: hand selected organic ingredients; skills built on tradition, passed from generation to generation and, most of all, the passion to create the perfect loaf of bread. All three of these are present at the Boulangerie Legrand in Namur. Baker, Dominique Legrand, has been baking bread since he was 18, but the history of the Legrand Bakery runs much deeper. Six generations ago, in 1831, Dominique’s ancestors founded Boulangerie Legrand and little has changed since those days. Dominique and his wife, Angela, had a mission when they took over the Boulangerie Legrand and moved it to its current location in Namur. Their goal was simply to create the finest breads from the best ingredients they could find. This is the reason people drive all the way from Brussels and even as far as Northern France, just to buy their breads. Some of the grains come from as far away as Egypt and their natural fermentations take anywhere from 18 to 24 hours. These are live breads and we could taste the difference, as the flavours danced on our tongues. From deceptively simple baguettes to sweet brioches to rich loaves made of chestnut spelt, it was impossible to choose a favourite. More Information: http://cheeseweb.eu/2013/08/boulangerie-legrand-namur-belgiums-bakery/

Swoops of smooth, scarlet earth overlook Dominica’s northeast coast near Calibishie. At Point Baptiste, a mile-long coral reef protects the seashore, creating a calm lagoon. Farther down the coast, however, the Atlantic erodes and slaps waves high onto the dramatic headland. If you visit Point Baptiste Beach, know that a caretaker sometimes requests a donation from foreigners. Still, it’s a small price to pay for exploring this spectacular landscape of black sand, red rock, and splendid mountain views, which are especially beautiful at dusk.

The soft, gold sand of Batibou Beach stretches along Dominica’s northeast coast, where the Atlantic is calm enough for swimming. Visitors and locals alike come here to relax in the shade of towering coconut trees, or sip rum punch in a hammock at the tiny, rustic beach bar. To reach Batibou, walk 20 minutes down a rough, often muddy trail, or hire a roundtrip ride from the Hampstead Country House. If you’re seeking solitude, avoid Sunday afternoons, when the barbecue scene is particularly lively.

This industrial-chic eatery has a covered patio and floor-to-ceiling doors that welcome good weather inside, all overlooking the ocean on Dominica’s east coast. Pagua Bay puts a strong emphasis on seasonal, farm-to-table fare—a commitment made trickier by Hurricane Maria’s destruction in autumn 2017. Still, the restaurant continues to serve reliable American fare with Caribbean twists, including ceviche, goat tacos, chicken Creole, and mahi-mahi salsa. Wash it all down with a frosty beer or coconut rum punch.

Stroll 15 minutes through a lush rainforest to this gorgeous 40-foot waterfall grotto, located deep within the World Heritage site of Morne Trois Pitons National Park. Railings and a broad, well-maintained trail make the trip accessible even to non-hikers, though the tree-fringed pool—which is open to swimmers—gets unpleasantly packed when cruise ships pull into port. Serious photographers should haul along tripods and cable or remote shutter releases to capture the low-light, but oh-so-lovely scenery, which has become one of Dominica’s top attractions.

This long, lovely stretch of silver-gray volcanic sand is a rarity on Dominica’s rocky coastline. Locals enjoy it for the warm, calm waters and Sunday beach barbecue scene—not to mention the toilets, showers, concession stands, and nearby restaurants. However, it’s just a half-hour drive north of the cruise ship terminal in Roseau, so the crowds can heat up when the big vessels dock. Steer clear then, if you can.

The Caribbean’s first long-distance hiking trail runs 115 miles south to north. Fourteen segments break Waitukubuli into manageable day hikes—important for rule-followers, as camping is tolerated but not technically legal in Dominica’s reserves and national parks. Brace for lofty peaks, precipitous valleys, and riotous tangles of rain forest vegetation on this trek, which bears the island’s original indigenous name, meaning “tall her body.” Consider hiring a local guide for expert advice on trekking the steep, corrugated landscape, which Christopher Columbus once described by simply crumpling up a ball of paper.

One of the Dominican Republic’s finest museums can be found in its second-largest city, Santiago de los Caballeros. Centro León, a philanthropic project run by the Grupo León Jimenes tobacco company, focuses on Dominican culture, showcasing everything from historical displays to contemporary art. Learn about the island’s ecosystem, history, and people, then browse work by noted Dominican artists. In a separate building is an exhibition about the founder of Grupo León Jimenes and his family business. For a souvenir, be sure to stop by the excellent gift shop, which features a wide selection of books on Dominican history, art, culture, and food.

Why we love it: A peaceful eco-lodge on Dominica’s “wild” southeast coast

Highlights:
- A “barefoot luxury” vibe
- Proximity to the beach
- Villas surrounded by a working fruit plantation

The Review:
An agritourism pioneer, Citrus Creek blends hospitality with a tropical fruit plantation on Dominica’s rugged east coast. In building the resort, owner Hervé “RV” Nizard repurposed parts of his 20-acre farm in Taberi, adding a dozen self-catering cottages and villas. Ranging from one to three bedrooms, the accommodations include a safari tent and a stone tree house. Focused on nature, Citrus Creek trades TVs for rainforest hikes and a swimming pool for plunges in a pristine river. The property also lacks air-conditioning, but shade trees and prevailing winds keep it comfortable year-round and help maintain a “barefoot luxury” vibe.

Each room has a kitchen, stocked with breakfast goodies like tea, coffee, bread, butter, jam, and honey. For those who would rather dine out, a cafe offers half-board plans and operates every day from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (or later with reservations). Take your dinner on the veranda overlooking the river, choosing among French-Caribbean delicacies like onion pie, caramel pork, grilled lionfish, and smoked marlin quiche. Other on-site perks include a tour desk, car rentals, and, soon, a pier set within the jungle that will be equipped to welcome sailboats.