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On the North Shore of O‘ahu, Turtle Bay Resort is the only hotel of its caliber on this less developed part of the island. Set on a 1,300-acre property—half of which has been set aside permanently for conservation—the 408 rooms and suites all have ocean views and a neutral/blue palette inspired by the surrounding area. The resort’s commitment to environmental sustainability is palpable: Meals are prepared with leafy greens, beets, and other crops from the resort’s own Kuilima Farm, a plot of land five minutes from the hotel with a farm stand and “you-pick” self-harvesting days for locals. Meanwhile, the 18-hole golf course is maintained with gray water treated by the resort’s own plant.


The resort doubles as a wildlife sanctuary. A birding experience via electric golf cart led by Captain Scott Sundby, who runs Shaka Kayaks and has lived on the North Shore for 20 years, offers a glimpse at some of the wild residents. They include the ‘alae ‘ula, or Hawaiian common gallinule, which according to Hawaiian legend got its fiery red forehead from the gods, and Hawaiian monk seals, one of the world’s most endangered seal species. The coastline here is set within the Hawaiian Island Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary, extending more than 1,200 nautical square miles; in the winter, it’s the site of humpback breeding, calving, and nursing.

A stroll down Kalakaua Avenue is always great for people watching, shopping, and dining. In September 2013, the Royal Hawaiian Center reopened the Helumoa Hale and Royal Grover on Kalakaua. This beautiful grove provides authentic Hawaiian hula, storytelling, and ukulele performances. If you’re interested in learning more about Hawaiian history and culture, I encourage you to participate in one of the complimentary classes that the Center offers, including hula, ukulele, lei making, or quilt making. You will not leave this cultural center without learning something new about Hawaii, and your experience will be a memorable part of your visit to Waikiki!

Homegrown shops and boutiques welcome guests to browse on a lazy afternoon... Find secondhand books, homemade soaps, and Hawaiian-grown coffee beans, among other delights.

Don’t settle for kitsch: Take home a souvenir of Oahu that offers a locally made memory of the island. Shop at the markets and malls where residents find treats from mochi doughnuts to a beer salted with sea water. Then explore distinctive Hawaiian gifts like koa-wood ukuleles, Niihau shell lei, updated aloha shirts and quilts with traditional botanical designs.

Only steps away from any accommodation in Honolulu are numerous must-do Hawaiian experiences that introduce visitors to the aloha spirit of Oahu. These must-do Honolulu experiences include learning hula, lei making, discovering the past, and playing in the ocean waves, and offer visitors the opportunity to create Honolulu-style tropical memories to take home with them.

Local Hawaiian Barbecue is easy to come by in the Islands. And, no fast food or plated lunch chain makes it easier to taste a bit of Island food than L&L Barbecue. Menu favorites include Kailua Pork and Hawaiian Barbecue Chicken. To try something new, there is Lau Lau (pork wrapped in taro leaf), Saimin (noodles and broth with choice of meat), Musabi (meat and rice block wrapped in seaweed), or Loco Moco (hamburgers, rice, gravy, and eggs).

Around 112 miles of coastline fringe Oahu, including some of Hawaii’s best beaches, perfect for kayaking, snorkeling, and surfing. From rocky shores to sugar-silky stretches of sand, options abound for a day—or even a week—spent soaking up the sun and sea. Grab a towel and some reef-safe sunscreen (bereefsafe.com), then dive in!

Not known as a cheap place to live or visit or eat, Hawaii does have restaurants and cafes that make an effort to keep the prices down. Numerous hole-in-the-wall establishments offer specials, and several restaurants offer reasonable rates for lunch and pau hana (happy hour).

If you’re in Oahu’s North Shore area, stop for lunch at Fumi’s Kahuku Shrimp truck — it’s the one with a mural of a gigantic, rearing shrimp. They’re not rock-bottom cheap, but you get a lot for your money; $13 gets you a plate piled high with fat, juicy shrimp dripping with garlic butter, two big scoops of rice, and a (skippable) salad. Seating is outdoor-only on plastic tables and chairs, but it’s probably the best option for these messy, delicious peel-and-eat shrimp. The pond where they farm their shrimp is right next to where the truck is parked, so you can’t get any fresher than that!

Toast your vacation at one of Maui’s many bars, which range from dives to rooftop lounges to thatched huts serving Champagne. Soak up the sun at Hula Grill or Leilani’s on Kāʻanapali Beach, then retire to spots like the island’s oldest bar, the Pioneer Inn, or Monkeypod Kitchen, which serves cocktails by the legendary Peter Merriman, a leader of Hawaii Regional Cuisine. End the night with dancing into the wee hours at local favorite South Shore Tiki Lounge.

The island of Maui is full of unique souvenirs, from muumuus to malasadas (Portuguese doughnuts). Expect to find weave-your-own haku lei (flower crowns), vodka distilled from deep-ocean mineral water, and punk albums at the best record store in Hawaii. Fashionistas can also look forward to original designs at Kūlua and the Monarch Collective, while those seeking something a little simpler will want to hit the Maui Swap Meet and Olowalu General Store.

Honolulu’s last great tiki bar is tucked behind a row of warehouses, six miles northwest of Waikiki. Set on the edge of Keehi Lagoon, it shelters under plumeria and coconut trees—and will be familiar to fans of Hawaii Five-0. La Mariana defies the kitsch label: All those shell chandeliers, puffer-fish lights, and fishing floats suspended in nets are the real deal, with most items dating back to 1957. Carved tikis abound, alongside high-gloss tables fashioned from koa, the rich-hued wood from endemic acacias and the source of weapons and voyaging canoes for ancient Hawaiians. Go for the ambience and strong mai tais; the menu is straight-up, old-school surf and turf, perfectly tasty but uninspiring.

Once a delicacy of Japanese royalty, shave ice went mainstream in the 1920s. The refreshing treat then crossed the Pacific with immigrants—workers bound for the sugar plantations and pineapple fields of Hawaii. Now a classic way to cool down in the islands, this sweet is more than a mere snow cone. Ice made from filtered water is shaved instead of ground, so the texture resembles a delicate snowfall in your mouth. Ululani’s goes a step further by using pure cane sugar and premium purees made in-house. Among its most popular blends are the Haleakalā (coconut and Leche topped with cream) and the Sunset Beach (guava, mango, passion fruit, and orange). The chain has six outlets around Maui, including one at the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort, and one in Kailua-Kona on Hawai’i Island.

A trip on Oahu’s windward side to the North Shore is not complete without a stop at the yellow Shrimp Shack. Two wonderful women operate this truck and serve up locally sourced fresh shrimp and other delicious food. As a warning, the meals are usually loaded with garlic and spice, but oh so wonderful. Instruction are painted on every yellow table top: “Suck, peel, dip, and EAT.” Drinks (and other convenience-store items) are available at Ching’s Store next door. The truck is bright yellow and impossible to miss on the North Shore. Be sure to stop in and say hi and indulge in some amazing spicy shrimp!