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Landing in heat-soaked Kuala Lumpur after being on the road for 24 hours can be disorienting. Incessant chanting (“vei vel shakti vel”), monkeys screeching, wafting incense, a glorious moon, and a million people.


Thaipusam falls on a full moon and is the celebration in remembrance of Lord Murugan (his statue pictured at the base of the steep 272 steps to the Waterfall Temple at Batu Caves - the top being the best view) who received the “vel” (sacred spear) from his mother, Shiva’s wife, to kill three demons. Killing internal demons seems to be the order of the day for devotees.


The festivities begin with a chariot bearing the statue of Lord Murugan being drawn through the streets starting from Sri Maha Mariamman Temple and then on the second day (when I arrived), the fulfilling of the vows by devotees takes place at the Batu Caves after people walk barefoot approximately 15 kilometers starting in the middle of the night from Kuala Lumpur. The chariot returns to the Temple on the third day.


The real highlight is watching devotees with huge decorated frames (“kavadi”= burden”) supported by spikes that pierce their chests and backs as penance for answered prayers. As one devotee said to me, “Life is an act of gratitude and this is the ultimate day of gratitude to our deities.” I felt a deep empathy for the intense devotion and commitment of the Tamil Hindus I witnessed. This is truly one of the world’s great festivals of purification and atonement.

These green huts are known as Cabman’s Shelters. They first started appearing around London in 1875 to provide cheap hot meals to cabbies. Even though the huts are pretty small, there’s enough room inside for a little kitchen and some seats. I wasn’t particularly aware of these huts until I saw a documentary on TV. Apparently, there are now only 13 of them left. This one is located at Thurloe Place in Kensington, opposite the Victoria & Albert Museum. As you can see, it’s located in the middle of the road, and cabbies, stopping for a bite, park their taxis behind it. I walked past the back of the hut and peeped through the window. The place was packed full of diners (around 10 of them) all squeezed in side by side, enjoying their meals.

Another hallowed Capitol Hill rock venue, Chop Suey is a short walk up the hill from the Pike/Pine intersection. The performers tend to skew toward local bands, electronic, and drag shows, but one of Seattle’s most unique dance parties is Talcum, featuring the best of Pacific Northwest soul and Motown music (the name refers to the practice of sprinkling talcum powder on the dance floor for better slipping and sliding). Talcum happens every fourth Saturday, and vintage/formal attire is strongly encouraged. Most Chop Suey shows are 21+, and there’s a full bar, but no kitchen; however, you’re allowed to bring your own food inside, oddly enough. Grab a Seattle Dog, slathered with sautéed onions and cream cheese, at the hot dog cart parked out in front. Cash only, if you buy tickets at the door.

Situated in three high-rise towers on the Golden Mile along Eagle Beach, the Blue Aruba complex is home to luxury condominiums as well as a full-service resort. Expect enormous windows with stunning ocean views and modern furnishings in apartment-style configurations that top out at more than 2,000 square feet; most come with fully equipped kitchens, and ground-floor residences have private patios and Jacuzzis. All the resort touches are here, including private beach facilities, two infinity pools, a spa and fitness center, and even a high-end restaurant that offers eight-course dinners. But golf lovers have an excellent reason to venture off-resort: The nearby Tierra del Sol Resort combines tee times on an 18-hole championship golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones II with sublime seaside panoramas.

I’m generally more of a details guy, but now and again there’s a place for a high-level, 30,000 foot view of a place (and cheesy sociology jargon). Kota Bharu’s massive central market is not for the feint of heart - or the vegetarian. The central section, depicted here, is generally where you’ll find standard fruits and veggies. If you wander deeper into the bowels of the complex, you’ll find a rather intense wet market (men chopping beef flanks like a lumberjack would fell an oak, pig intestines hung like festive garlands, and unscrupulous vendors hawking sea turtle eggs). We visited with a few travel friends, and I think I was the only one from the group who could handle the sensory assault. I found parts of this market particularly disturbing (just a whole lot of things going on I’m not used to seeing anyplace else), but as a travel experience - whoa, yeah. I’ll never forget this one. I must have shot more than 400 photos in the couple of hours I dragged our party through this complex. I’ll focus on the details in a future post.

Even with the summer crush on the French Riviera in full swing, there are quiet escapes to be found. In particular, I like to take walks along the Sentier du Littoral, the coastal footpath that stretches the length of the French Mediterranean coast. My favorite segment is in St. Tropez, where I head by boat from Ste. Maxime (the Bateaux Verts leave every 10 minutes). From the ferry landing, I start walking—through the narrow streets and old port, under the imposing citadel that has guarded residents since around 1600, past the cemetery, and onto a narrow path that ribbons around the St. Tropez Peninsula. The 7-mile route takes me by inlets of crystalline water, hidden villas whose residents I always wonder about, and past dozens of little beaches that are significantly more serene and less crowded than the frenzy of those found along Pampelonne Bay, where this piece of the trail ends. You can hoof the two miles back to the village, or take the bus.

Don’t dress up to visit this grunge bar tucked on Marnixgracht in Amsterdam‘s Oude West. Don’t be put off by the abundant graffiti covering its gritty exterior, either. Inside, Café Soundgarden is a welcoming, unpretentious pub with a spectacular canal-side terrace and an alternative vibe. The laid-back joint boasts a pool table, pinball machines and table soccer, in addition to a full bar. Belly up for some of the cheapest beer in town, including a wide selection of domestic and imported brands. Beyond inexpensive drinks, the real attraction of the place is an expansive rear deck overlooking Singlegracht canal. Come as you are to share a beer and a joint with locals, expats and possibly a few tattooed tourists who’ve stumbled upon the gezellig terrace, offering a view of passing boats and the Nassaukade street scene. Stay for live music and party like a rock star while DJs spin techno-tunes late into the night.

This club, housed in an old industrial warehouse, does not look unlike a mental ward and, inside, has as many fascinating levels as an Escher drawing. To dance with a sea of the coolest kids in Berlin (and Europe for that matter—it’s a landmark destination for partiers across Europe), stay on the ground floor. For a smaller scene, head to the top floor, which gradually attracts a more queer crowd as the weekend goes on. That’s the other thing: it’s only open from Friday until Monday morning. Wear plain clothes and no smile to get past the doorman. If at first you don’t succeed, come back on Sunday nights when the line is shorter and the bouncers are known to be less prickly.

Its location on a relatively undeveloped stretch of Grace Bay Beach, and an atmosphere so subdued that guests sometimes feel they ought to be tiptoeing, make Point Grace a haven for people who want no sounds but the lapping of waves, and, occasionally, a recommendation from a waiter. The 28-room resort has a modernized British Colonial style; the roomy suites feature a full kitchen and washer/dryer; there’s an excellent, if small, spa; and the restaurant is romantic enough to encourage marriage proposals, or reinforce that they were the right thing to do. But guests looking for a party atmosphere, or whose pleasure is to see their kids happily splashing in the pool, might want to look elsewhere.

The 29-acre Nizuc Resort & Spa excels in size, service, and amenities. The soothing design scheme blends calming neutrals and natural materials, which recur across multiple interior elements, including lamps, furniture, and tile flooring. Spacious, sun-filled rooms feature terraces and tropical gardens, and the private villas include infinity pools. Staff lead many activities to keep visitors as busy as they want to be; a typical day at the resort might include learning how to roll cigars, participating in a session of paddleboard yoga, or simply trying to choose a favorite between the two pools.

Aruba’s Palm Beach is known for its powdery white sand, tranquil blue waters—and sprawling full-service luxury resorts. Just steps away, the intimate Boardwalk Small Hotel is a laid-back alternative. Owned and operated by Belgian twin sisters Stephanie and Kimberly Rooijakkers, who were born on the island and spent their childhoods here, 14 casitas are scattered on the grounds of a former coconut plantation and individually decorated: studio, one-, and two-bedroom spaces are outfitted with bright pinks, yellows, and aquas, fully equipped kitchens, air-conditioning, and private patios with their own charcoal barbecues and hammocks. Breakfast offerings range from the local (think tropical fruit and house-made arepas) to the luxe (bottles of champagne), and can be delivered to your casita or beachside palapa, but with no restaurant on site lunch and dinner is up to you.

It’s pronounced “Wool-zee,” and it’s a former showroom for the smart old cars that bear its name. Now a restaurant, it’s been restored to its original 1930s glamour with a gorgeous art deco slant. If you want a true taste of old Mayfair and St James—from the days when the streets were full of men in top hats carrying canes, and everyone had a gentleman’s gentleman—then a smart breakfast or lunch at the Wolseley can take you back in time. The food is classic British—and yes, that means there’s grilled kippers and kedgeree on the menu, as well as other retro dishes such as chicken Kiev—and the service is fabulous. Anything with eggs is a must—the souffle is particularly brilliant—and they also do a marvelous afternoon tea.

Why we love it: An eco-friendly jewel in South Beach with massive rooms, multiple pools, and a serious wellness focus

The Highlights:
- Direct beach access and four pools
- The full-service Bamford spa and 14,000-square-foot fitness center
- A onsite restaurant helmed by Tom Colicchio

The Review:
It’s hard to make people take notice in flamboyant South Beach but 1 Hotel managed to make a significant mark not with opulence but with eco-consciousness. Since its debut in 2015, the hotel has become a hub for stylish, wellness-focused travelers who love its environmentally friendly features like salvaged wood, living plant walls, and bulk toiletries. The four pools—including an adults-only one on the roof with sweeping ocean views—direct beach access with chairs and umbrellas, and spacious Bamford spa don’t hurt either. Children are welcomed with a play area on the beach, kids’ club, and two family-friendly pools.

Rooms here are massive, with the smallest starting at 700 square feet. Whites and beiges rule the color palette, complemented by rattan and wood accents for a beachy feel. Also included are hemp mattresses covered in organic sheets, chalkboards instead of wasteful pads of paper, and take-home socks in place of disposable slippers. There’s even a yoga mat in every room, should you feel so inclined, though you could also head down to the massive fitness complex, yoga deck, and obstacle course (yes, really). If you’re feeling peckish, buy a snack at the lobby farm stand, or wander over to Beachcraft, chef Tom Colicchio’s ode to seasonal produce and fresh seafood. Tom on Collins is the cute lobby bar and often hosts live Cuban music or jazz—a quieter scene than most South Beach party spots. Sometimes the rooftop bar is a bit more sceney, but if you need to get out, hitch a ride in the house Tesla anywhere within three miles.

Prague’s National Gallery is located in eight distinctive buildings and palaces throughout the city, each one dedicated to particular periods, spanning from medieval times to the 21st century. The collection was begun in 1796 by a group of nobles and intellections and has grown to include 400,000 works of art today. In Veletrzni Palace, you’ll find Czech and European art from the 19th century to today, includin a comprehensive collection of works by František Kupka, Czech cubism, plus works by Rodin, Gaugin, Van Gogh, Lichtenstein, and Picasso. The art of Asia and the ancient Mediterranean is exhibited at the Kinsky Palace while the Sternberg Palace showcases European art from antiquity through the Baroque period.

As a former Renoite, I now get to enjoy playing tourist when I return, which includes staying at a hotel-casino. For my money, the Atlantis is one of the best choices in town. It’s located a bit south of downtown, very close to the aiport and far away from the traffic chaos that festival weekends can bring. The decor theme is a surreal fantasy undersea wonderland, as befits the Atlantean name. Toucan Charlie’s is my favorite hotel buffet, setting out a particularly extravagant spread for holiday brunches and dinners. Guests get full access to the tropical-themed indoor atrium pool, hot tub, and outdoor pools. They’ve even made the skyway to the parking lot an attraction, packed with video slots, a sushi bar, and an oyster bar. As shown here, however, the hotel’s rooms are understated and peaceful, far enough from the noisy racket of the main casino floor to get a good night’s sleep.