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Wandering Chef: Brandon Sharp in North Carolina

Overview

Part of the Auberge Resorts Collection, Solage is one of Calistoga’s top lodging options; the trio of overnight accommodations, spa, and Michelin-starred restaurant practically force guests to unwind and relax. The experience starts in the 89 studios and suites, which are built like stand-alone cabins and are furnished comfortably. Most have private patios; larger rooms and suites have private backyards (some even have sunken hot tubs); all have in-room showers lined with rocks that feel great on bare feet. With three geothermal pools, the on-site spa is second to none in the Napa Valley. The property’s signature treatment, dubbed the Mudslide, revolves around mineral-enriched mud that guests are encouraged to slather all over themselves and later incorporates a session in a soaking tub and time in a sound chair. Elsewhere on the property, at the Solbar restaurant, chef Massimo Falsini gives farm-fresh cooking a Mediterranean twist. The Monterey black cod in coconut-turmeric brodo is a crowd pleaser. Another must-order: the Macallan 18 butterscotch pudding, made with aged scotch.

The best time to hit the mineral-fed pools at Indian Springs is just before closing, right around 9:30 p.m. Grab a float noodle, place it behind your neck, float on your back in the 102-degree water, and look up at the stars. No matter how cold the air might be, you will immediately relax. The Calistoga resort has been offering guests a similar experience for more than 150 years, though recent renovations have modernized the offerings and brought a new level of luxury and sophistication. The main attractions are the pools: one for all ages and another only for adults. Elsewhere on the property, an expansive spa offers massages and mud treatments; a restaurant—dubbed Sam’s Social Club—serves healthy California cuisine along with house-brewed beer. Accommodations vary widely, ranging from two-room cabins and expansive one-bedroom suites to multi-room bungalows and full-scale houses. Once you’ve had your fill of shuffleboard and bocce, walk into downtown Calistoga to shop at the local boutiques, or take the short trail to the top of the hill for a stellar view of the north end of the Napa Valley. Don’t miss: Perhaps the most spiritual part of the Indian Springs experience is the Wishing Tree in front of the spa. Write your wish on a card and tie it to the tree with the hundreds of others already there.

Playful art and sculptures are the centerpiece of the winery, Clos Pegase. A collection of sculptures by famous 20th-century artists greets visitors outside, and the collection continues in the courtyard and tasting room. The owner, Jan Shrem, believes that great art is best shared with the public. The architecture of the Napa Valley winery is also creative—architect Michael Graves designed the grand building with elements that are partly contemporary and bold and partly classical. The wines are produced only from estate-grown grapes. Tours are offered daily at 11:30 a.m. (all ages) and 2:00 p.m. (21 and over only).

Attached to the hip, retro Calistoga Motor Lodge, MoonAcre Spa & Bath welcomes hotel guests and non-guests over 16 years of age to experience its fun and funky spa. If you’re looking for a soak in one of the area’s natural geothermal hot springs, there are three pools to choose from at MoonAcre, as well as facials, scrubs, and massages galore. The Perfectly Muddled treatment takes the town’s famous mud baths—which typically call for spa-goers to submerge themselves in warm, sticky mud—and instead allow guests to apply the exfoliating mud themselves or have the spa attendant do so, making the mud “bath” a more personalized and, honestly, slightly more comfortable experience. For ultra relaxation, try a CBD massage featuring cannabidiol, an extract derived from cannabis. Stop by for Happy Spa Hour between 4-6 p.m. on Wednesdays, or, for frequent visitors, check out the newly launched Spa Club Memberships. MoonAcre is great for groups, too, with plenty of room to enjoy a friends’ getaway weekend. Treatments start at $70.

Originally constructed in 1886, the building for this elegant five-room boutique inn went through a few different iterations as a private home and a small hospital before earning its National Historic status in the 1970s. But about 50 years ago when the hospital shut down, it fell into disrepair. Enter new owners Dina and Richard Dwyer. World travelers themselves, the Dwyers brought their expertise in design and construction and spent about four years renovating the building, which they opened in fall 2018. The property has an onsite pool, an outdoor fire pit, and is a short walk to shops and restaurants in downtown Calistoga. Guest rooms are elegant, with plenty of natural light, and bathrooms feature high-tech Toto toilets—all wonderful to return to after a day exploring Napa Valley. Breakfasts are a delight, too: ingredients are fresh (you might even get some herbs from their garden!) and Dina takes pride in highlighting local and regional purveyors. The beautifully appointed living and dining room—as well as Richard and Dina’s welcoming hospitality—will make travelers feel right at home.

The Louisiana-style, year-round barbecue at Buster’s is in a league of its own. Main-course options at this no-frills (read: It’s a glorified picnic shelter) Calistoga eatery include shoulder, pork ribs, tri-tip, chicken, pork loin, and pulled pork—all cooked medium rare unless otherwise specified. Most dishes come with sides such as baked beans, macaroni salad, and cole slaw. All portions are heaping, and every dish comes with signature garlic toast. Dessert options include house-made sweet potato pie and fresh-baked cookies. Because of Buster’s proximity to downtown Calistoga, the restaurant is a great stop after a morning hike on Mount St. Helena. On warm days, try to grab a table outside and watch the ‘cue masters work the outdoor grills, and on Sunday afternoons, stick around for live blues and jazz on the patio.

Hungry customers line up and down the block for a seat at Café Sarafornia, without question Calistoga’s most popular brunch and lunch spot. The restaurant offers a California spin on an old-school diner, turning out pancakes, corned beef hash, and cheese blintzes. Breakfast is available all day—at least until the restaurant closes (at 2:30 p.m. daily). Café Sarafornia is particularly fun for kids, who can order off special menus and receive crayons and activity mats when they sit down. Local historians say the restaurant dates back nearly 120 years to when Calistoga was known as a resort town.

Calistoga’s most storied mineral baths are the centerpiece of what has become Dr. Wilkinson’s Hot Springs Resort, fittingly named after a chiropractor from San Francisco. Most visitors still come for the day spa, which is split into two sides, one for men and the other for women. Options for both include mud baths (in a mix of volcanic ash, hot spring water, and peat moss), mineral-water whirlpool tubs, mineral steam rooms, blanket wraps, and massages. Then, of course, there’s “the Works,” a signature treatment that combines all of these into one. This treatment used to cost less than $5 back in 1952, when Dr. John Wilkinson opened the place. Rumor has it that since then, all that’s changed is the price.