Search results for

Why we love it: A 19th-century palazzo-turned-boutique-hotel that’s full of sophisticated details

The Highlights:
- Historic details like restored tiles, antique furniture, and traditional Maltese wooden balconies
- Guestrooms with deep-soaking tubs or Jacuzzis
- A central location just off Valletta’s main drag

The Review:
Formerly home to the Ellul family, this Victorian-period palazzo is now an exceedingly charming boutique stay that’s a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World. Fourth-generation brothers Matthew and Andrew Ellul converted the property, which sits on a quiet but easily accessible side street, into nine luxurious guestrooms, each uniquely decorated with restored Maltese tiles, wrought iron accents, richly hued rugs, and antiques sourced from around the world. Rooms also feature original works by local artist Ritty Tacsum as well as either a private terrace or traditional Maltese wooden balcony. One suite even has a piano, while several others boast free-standing bathtubs or Jacuzzis. In keeping with the Casa Ellul’s family-owned ethos, service here is friendly and personalized, making guests feel as if they’re staying in a friend’s home.

Why we love it: A design-forward oasis for creative nomads

The Highlights:
- The bright and airy inner courtyard with a massive chaca tree
- Regular programming like live music and wellness workshops
- No single-use plastics in sight

The Review:
From Tulum tastemaker Derek Klein (of Gitano fame) comes this minimalist tropical hotel on the edge of the ever-expanding city. Imagined as a hub for creative types, Casa Pueblo hosts wellness workshops, live music, readings, and other community events, but also boasts amenities like a saltwater pool, rooftop bar, and in-house restaurant situated in an airy central courtyard. Yucatan textiles and handmade pottery can be found in various nooks and seating areas.

The hotel’s 16 spare rooms face into the courtyard and feature clean white-plaster walls, hand-sculpted bedside sconces, carved wooden furniture, and slatted wooden shutters covering floor-to-ceiling windows. Luuna memory foam mattresses wear Parachute linens and bathrooms showcase custom-made concrete sinks and open rain showers. Purified water in glass carafes and full-size organic Loredana bath products mean no single-use plastics, helping the hotel remain 99 percent plastic-free.

Hundreds of years ago, at the height of Florence’s Renaissance heyday, visitors to this cultural capital wouldn’t have stayed in the kinds of luxury hotels that now line its picturesque streets. Rather, the well-heeled would have come at the behest of friends, lodging in private homes whose unassuming facades in the best neighborhoods belied their sumptuous interiors and private gardens, outfitted with art and artifacts collected from around the world.

A guesthouse to its core, Casa Howard continues this Florentine tradition; there is neither lobby nor restaurant, and the owner Massimiliano Leonardi di Casalino lives in his own apartment here while in town (note, it can be rented when he’s away). Jennifer Howard Forneris, one of the design-conscious proprietors who has since passed away, was the daughter of renowned textile designer Luciano Forneris. She gave each room its own look, with finds from her and Leonardi di Casalino’s world travels. A media room is the sole common area, and a hammam steam room and an on-site concierge service are the only nods toward traditional hotel services. Insider recommendations are personalized according to guests’ preferences, and the honor bar feels more like a friend’s (well-stocked) fridge.

Known for their ability to combine comfort with luxury, Dominica’s best accommodations range from oceanfront cabanas and cliffside condos to a hotel in a former military fortification and an eco-lodge on a working fruit plantation. Many focus on sustainability and adventure travel, while others highlight local art, world-class spas, and proximity to Dominica’s best beaches.

The mysterious rooftop of Casa Mila both charms and haunts visitors. The glorious October sky above frames the organic forms, each sculpted face watching as I creep up and down the rolling ramps. Children can’t resist playing here, and fortunately there are now fences all around. In my mind, I erase all of those pesky safety features to envision the smooth sculptures growing towards the sky from a scrolling sandy field. Once a site for a scene from Star Wars, the rooftop is now a destination for lovers of Barcelona and Antoni Guadi’s “Modernisma” style. When you visit, you’ll learn the secret behind those long vertical faces rising up above the mystical rooftop.

Though from Guadalajara (he never let friends forget), Pritzker Prize–winning architect Luis Barragán lived much of his life in Mexico City, where he designed and constructed this, his last residence, completed in 1948. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the home is open to be toured by small groups—by appointment only; English-language guides are available upon request—who want a chance to tap into Barragán’s brand of minimalism, which involved bold monochromism and a masterful use of light; striking horizontality and framing applied to windows, gardens, and views; a highly sui generis Catholic spirituality; and, not least of all, the architect’s bizarre need for control, in everything from what staircases guests might use to what records got played in different rooms.

Small and intimate, Hotel Casa Oaxaca feels quintessentially Oaxacan: It’s colonial in style, with whitewashed walls contrasting with vivid pops of carnelian red and fuchsia. It’s surrounded by local vegetation. And it’s filled with Oaxacan handicrafts and art. Common areas invite visitors to settle in and relax, like the on-site library, pool, and terrace with beautifully-made cotton hammocks. The hotel’s seven rooms are arranged around the central patio. Visitors consistently say the service is exceptional, with attention to detail and a “go the extra mile” attitude mentioned frequently as one of the main reasons to return. Another is the hotel’s central location, as it offers an easy walk to many of Oaxaca’s top sights.

Palermo, Sicily’s capital, is a marvelously jumbled, crumbling blend of old and new—a canvas upon which the region’s complex and ever-shifting history has been painted. Over the centuries, the port of Palermo was controlled by forces from the far corners—from Phoenicians, Greeks and Romans, to Arabs from North Africa, and then Normans from France, who oversaw a renaissance during which many of Palermo’s iconic landmarks and modern tourist attractions were built.

To see some of the vestiges of ancient empires, take a day trip from Palermo to the Valley of the Temples at Agrigento, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its Greek and Roman ruins, including the Temple of Concordia, remain wonderfully intact. Within the city itself, explore the attractions in historic neighborhoods such as the Arab district of La Kalsa, home to the finery-filled Palazzo Mirto. The Quattro Canti (Four Corners) lies in the heart of the old city, with Piazza Pretoria on the corner. From there it’s only a short distance to Palermo’s Norman Palace, another UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Palermo’s star attractions, which houses the Palatine Chapel, famous for its intricate mosaics.

Palermo is also a perfect jumping-off point for sightseeing excursions to the idyllic beaches of Mondello, the medieval coastal town of Cefalù and the mountain village of Monreale, which is known for its exceptional Norman cathedral.

St. John is the least developed and most sparsely populated of the three main islands in the U.S. Virgin Islands. That’s not surprising, since more than half its land is protected as a U.S. National Park. Most visitors reach St. John by ferry from St. Thomas, landing at the dock in Cruz Bay, St. John’s main settlement. A village with only a few thousand residents, Cruz Bay has gained a reputation as an upscale retreat for movie stars and other high-profile people looking for a secluded getaway.

It all started back in 1956, when businessman and conservationist Laurance Rockefeller, who had bought extensive land holdings on St. John, opened the low-key but luxurious Caneel Bay Resort. It’s still going strong, and visitors can stop in for lunch and a swim in the beautiful bay. Rockefeller later donated much of his estate to the national park.

Snorkelers should make time for an underwater tour in Trunk Bay, where the National Park Service maintains a submarine snorkeling trail. And no sightseeing drive around the island is complete without a stop to see the fabulous panoramic view from the Bordeaux Mountain Overlook. Back in the town, the boutiques at Mongoose Junction offer one-of-a-kind souvenirs, while Cruz Bay Landing is a perfect spot to grab lunch and drinks.

Steps away from Mérida’s prestigious mansion- and monument-lined Paseo de Montejo, this residence turned boutique hotel is a stylish retreat full of Instagrammable moments. Colonial-era details like wooden antiques, wrought-iron chandeliers, and exposed ceiling beams are sprinkled throughout the seven guest rooms, but modern comforts keep things current—think bathrooms with organic toiletries and rain showers illuminated by skylights. There’s plenty of tile flooring and colorful art on the walls, but the most scenic spots are the breezy colonnaded patios that overlook the hotel’s lush outdoor spaces. Head to the tranquil pool area to while away the time with a good read or an expertly crafted cocktail in one of the hammocks that swing beside the water. The next best seat in the house? You’ll find it on the breakfast patio, overlooking the palm-dotted garden. A seat at the granite-topped bar isn’t too shabby either, with personable bartenders serving up a wide variety of top-quality tequilas.

We live in the age of artisanal everything, from chocolate and coffee, to, you guessed it, water. At Mexico City‘s Casa del Agua, staff produce and bottle “local water” on-site. The bottles—designed artisanally, of course—are charming souvenirs that you can use over and over again (with your own, less expensive water) once you’re home. Be sure to go to the second level of the shop to see the filtration process, and to the terrace level to see where the water is captured.

While in the Lagos and western Algarve, I searched for lesser known beaches. With so many miles of coastline, I knew there had to be more beaches and less crowded ones at that. So my husband and I set out for several days to find these gems. We stopped at so many great beaches (we were usually the only Americans there) that the British and Germans have long known about. Each beach had a good restaurant with very fresh seafood. There were different activities available such as the usual sunbathing under the warm sun, surfing, parasailing, fishing,and horseback riding.

This beach at Burgau was a clean, beautiful, little town beach. There were several restaurants. This was a rewarding search for a different, lively beach. A natural and undeveloped area. We will return. Possibly we will rent for a week-end and stay in a small condo. If you go to the Algarve, bring a good current Michelin map of Portugal and get a map of the Algarve at your hotel desk. These will be easy to follow to the many western Algarve beaches. If renting a car, set this up with your travel agent in the states when planning your trip. It is cheaper, and the car will be delivered to you wherever you need it. Have a great time with this adventure!

Ducking into the Matador in the alphabet district is a great way to tour the Mexican culture through its tequila and mezcal heritage. Touting over 100 tequilas in a variety of vintages, you’re likely to become a bit overwhelmed by the depth and complexity. This anxiety is generally relieved after a couple of shots. Staff are keen on giving solid recommendations based on your preferences. There are “flights” of tequila to introduce you to the subtle characteristics of this oft-misunderstood beverage. Be daring and undaunted by the task at hand, and try to sip, not shoot. Salt & lime optional. The space is anchored by a large fire pit that is cozy in the winter months. Huge windows open during summer to bring the outside, in. The menu is focused and leans toward the California interpretations of Mexican cuisine. The pork dishes are a bit more traditional, while the fish tacos have a NW flair. The carne asada is nicely done, and there are veggie and gluten-free options all over the menu. Happy hour is a big draw with lots of great dishes and featured drinks on the cheap. While being part of a small chain of restaurants might seem one-dimensional, Matador promotes local sourcing on ingredients and lets each store have its own personality. NW Portland is a great neighborhood for exploring, and a tequila flight at the Matador is an entertaining way to get the party started.

History, natural beauty, rare wildlife, and luxurious digs are among the charms of Maria Island, a few miles off Tasmania’s east coast. You’ll experience them all during this four-day, three-night excursion across 25 miles of pristine scenery—and fueled by gourmet candlelit dining and fine Tasmanian wines. During the leisurely walk you’ll explore Darlington, a UNESCO heritage-listed convict settlement that once housed 600 prisoners; stroll pristine white-sand beaches; and view the unusual wildlife that calls the island home. At the end of each day, bunk down in one of two secluded wilderness camps, close to clearwater beaches ideal for swimming, and on the last night enjoy the comforts of a restored, heritage-listed home, where you’ll have a celebratory champagne lunch before boarding the boat back to the mainland.

Why we love it: A centrally located stay near Laguna’s best beaches, parks, and restaurants

The Highlights:
- A dreamy setting right above Main Beach
- Delicious breakfasts and daily wine receptions
- A location within walking distance of Laguna’s best restaurants

The Review:
Galleries, restaurants, and nightlife lie just steps from the Inn at Laguna Beach, while Heisler Park sprawls along the nearby bluffs, offering a place to stroll, see art, or simply lounge in the sun on a grassy lawn. Still, guests don’t even have to leave the hotel to enjoy sand, surf, and epic Pacific sunsets. Here, the 70 guest rooms mix modern comforts (European-style duvets, pillowtop mattresses) with coastal style (louvered shutters, rattan furniture). Some even include private patios or balconies, but all feature extras like newspaper delivery, iHome docking stations, and loaner umbrellas and beach chairs.

Following a multimillion-dollar renovation in 2012, the Inn now boasts a more sustainable design, complete with low-VOC paint, renewable bamboo furniture, low-flow faucets and showers, tile made from recycled stone, and birchwood key cards. Not everything is paired back, however, especially the hotel’s signature breakfast, which includes artisan pastries, bacon brioche sandwiches, and bowls of fresh sliced fruit. Guests can also look forward to a daily wine reception, chilled milk and cookies in the lobby every evening, and cocktails at the Pacific Terrace Bar, which sits high above Main Beach. Best of all, the Inn is dog-friendly, so you can bring along your four-legged friend for a couple of days on the beach.