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A journey into the ethnic neighborhoods redefining the City of Light

Uncorking Switzerland’s Secret

Hoi An’s iconic noodle dish was tangled in mystery for decades. Then writer David Farley came to town.

A boom of new restaurants, especially along 14th Street, has made eating in D.C. more satisfying the ever. Case in point: Ryan Ratino’s Bresca, which shakes off any notions of capital city stodginess with its thrillingly unusual flavor combinations. Among the Michelin stars and celebrity chefs, you’ll find a global culinary perspective, from Ethiopian to Western Thai to Greek. D.C. also continues to champion local seafood and maintain tradition at its taverns.

In the city’s once-gritty fishermen’s quarter, a group of activist chefs is reviving—and reinventing—traditional cuisine.

An aspiring bluegrass fiddler from London discovers much more than music on a trip to North Carolina.

What was once a pop-up bar, The Broken Shaker is now a permanent fixture at the Freehand Miami. The James Beard Award-nominated bar is located in the high-end hostel on South Beach serving up a selection of handcrafted cocktails. The bar itself is a tiny room by the pool with a 1950s Havana look. You can grab your cocktail—made with elixirs, syrups and infusions using herbs and spices from the onsite garden—and drink it in the bar, or head outside to the pool and nestle into one of the lounge chairs. Away from the hustle and bustle of South Beach, The Broken Shaker offers a more intimate setting than the lavish pools at high-end hotels in the area.

This rooftop bar has a refreshingly inclusive, come-as-you-are vibe. There’s no list at the door, no doorman sizing you up for anything beyond ensuring you’re of legal drinking age. For the prized sunset hour, arrive early—especially during summer—and grab a vintage table or booth by the pool with colorful mismatching chairs and tablecloths. Later in the evening, a bar stool is the place to be, watching the action and joining in when singalong-ready funk and disco tunes start playing. The overgrown garden that tops the circa 1924 Commercial Exchange building makes for a magical setting, softening the cityscape beyond. Atmosphere aside, the cocktails are what bring people here; masterminds Gabs Orta and Elad Zvi—who first started Broken Shaker as a pop-up in Miami—are known worldwide for their creative approach. It’s tempting to order drinks based on their clever names alone—not the worst idea—but be sure to try the Electro Lit, tequila with curry turmeric cordial, coconut water, fresh lime juice, and angostura bitters.

You can find a respectable beer selection at most Banff Avenue restaurants, but a well-crafted cocktail requires a little more intel. For a fabulous mixed drink, head to Block Kitchen + Bar on Caribou Street, an intimate venue specializing in all things shaken and stirred. With concoctions like the Gin Beetroot Sour and the Coffee & Artichoke Negroni, you’ll be glad you ventured off the main drag. You can grab tapas and gourmet sandwiches here too, like the Red Devil Calamari appetizer with spicy Thai sauce or the Kuterra Salmon on ciabatta bread. Keep in mind this teeny spot has limited seating, so arrive early or roll in fashionably late to get a seat.

This sprawl of green—132 acres’ worth—is an oasis for urbanites. The park’s centerpiece, the Nashville Parthenon, is a full-scale replica of the Grecian structure and a physical testimony to Nashville’s “Athens of the South” nickname. The park’s bandshell hosts Shakespeare in the Park and occasionally serves as the site of the popular Movies in the Park, but because this is Nashville, a free live music series called Musicians Corner dominates the summer programming. On Saturday afternoons from May through September, music lovers, families, and pets gather to enjoy an impressive lineup of musicians, as well as local food trucks and a beer garden. Recent performers have included Preservation Hall Jazz Band and local favorites Rayland Baxter, Cale Tyson, and Langhorne Slim.

When Freehand launched in Miami at the end of 2012, it became a welcome alternative to the city’s glitzy hotel scene. The retro-inspired, summer-camp-style hotel is housed in a 1930s building outfitted with vintage furnishings and wood paneling by New York design firm Roman and Williams. Laid-back activities (art classes, yoga) encourage mingling, while the Broken Shaker cocktail lounge has become a local hangout and earned two James Beard Award nominations.

Freehand Miami bills itself as “a hostel for a new generation of travelers.” Indeed, a visit here confirms that it’s very far from the stereotypical dingy hostel. In fact, were it not for the shared rooms, the Freehand would likely fall into the “boutique hotel” category.

Room decor includes vividly colorful modern art and Mexican blankets, and free Wi-Fi is available. There are also private rooms that come with work desks and flat-screen TVs. The complimentary breakfast is popular with guests and includes Cuban pastries and locally roasted Panther coffee. Evenings are well-spent at the hostel’s on-site bar, the Broken Shaker, which in 2014 was listed #22 on Drinks International’s World’s 50 Best Bars list. It specializes in inventive “garden-to-glass” cocktails, which blend familiar spirits with unique homemade bitters and ingredients that aren’t usually found in cocktails, such as green bean juice.
One could argue that the stylish, affordable hotel trend was actually ushered in by a pop-up craft cocktail bar in the courtyard of a defunct historic hotel just north of the South Beach fray. Five years later, The Broken Shaker is a permanent fixture of Miami Beach nightlife and the anchor of The Freehand Miami, a hip hotel-cum-hostel with both private and shared rooms designed by Roman & Williams in a subtle nautical theme. It’s also home to 27 Restaurant serving seasonal farm-to-table fare inspired by Miami’s melting pot of cultures. Perennially popular amongst locals, it should be at the top of every traveler’s list. The concept’s proven such a hit that they’ve recently opened hotels in Chicago and L.A. with New York on the horizon.


What was once a pop-up bar, The Broken Shaker is now a permanent fixture at the Freehand Miami. The James Beard Award-nominated bar is located in the high-end hostel on South Beach serving up a selection of handcrafted cocktails. The bar itself is a tiny room by the pool with a 1950s Havana look. You can grab your cocktail—made with elixirs, syrups and infusions using herbs and spices from the onsite garden—and drink it in the bar, or head outside to the pool and nestle into one of the lounge chairs. Away from the hustle and bustle of South Beach, The Broken Shaker offers a more intimate setting than the lavish pools at high-end hotels in the area.

Tourism is down, prices are up, social services are disappearing, and the government is bankrupt. Which means it’s a good time to get to know Seychelles.

Why we love it: A peaceful mountain hideaway with easy access to outdoor activities like golf, tennis, and hiking

The Highlights:
- A location surrounded by the campus of the University of the South and its history
- Luxurious rooms and common spaces with golf course views
- Popular Sunday brunch

The Review:
Owned and operated by the University of the South, the Sewanee Inn has become an important part of its small mountain town. Regular visitors include alumni and families visiting campus as well as fans of the great outdoors, who take advantage of the on-site Gil Hanse–designed golf course and the myriad hiking and biking opportunities on nearby Monteagle Mountain. Guests can also carry drinks from the cozy Shakerag Hollow lobby lounge out to the expansive open patio to enjoy beautiful sunsets over the edge of the ridge and to heckle their golfer friends as they approach the eighth green.

The entire property is intertwined into the history of the university, with artifacts thoughtfully positioned in nooks and shelves around the common areas and a small museum gallery just off the main lobby. Even the hotel restaurant, Eighteen58, is named for the year the university received its official charter. Guests and locals alike love the elevated comfort food served here, but especially popular is the Sunday brunch in the soaring Founders Hall, which includes a generous buffet, pancake and omelet stations, a Bloody Mary bar, and live entertainment. After brunch, hit the fitness center, borrow one of the inn’s complimentary bicycles, or simply return to your room, where amenities like cotton linens, flat-screen TVs, and Gilchrist & Soames bath products make for a luxurious retreat.

It may seem unbelievable now, given the pace of Siem Reap’s evolution, but reliably great coffee and other deli and bakery staples were tough to find before Blue Pumpkin set up shop near the turn of the millennium. Success may have changed the venture—it now has a number of outlets in Siem Reap, and several more in Phnom Penh—but the philosophy of serving simple but high-quality Asian and Western dishes remains intact. Menu highlights include generously proportioned breakfasts and sandwiches, decadent cakes, famous yogurt shakes, and a wide selection of homemade ice creams and sorbets.