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After Toronto, Montréal is the Canadian city with the largest population of residents of Italian descent. For more than a century, the community has been centered in one of the city’s most charming neighborhoods, Little Italy. The way to the heart of this neighborhood is arguably through its stomach or, rather, the Jean-Talon Market, where residents have come to buy produce and stock their pantries since 1933. Even if you aren’t shopping for fresh vegetables or fruits, it’s a good place to come to sample Québecois products and buy gifts like local jams, jellies, and maple products to take back home.

In a sleek, black brick building lies C27 Cheesecake & Coffee, a trendy café where chicly dressed Koreans take selfies as they sip cappuccinos amidst the whimsical interiors (the entire third floor has been transformed into faux kitchen Architectural Digest would be proud of). A glass case at the entrance displays—you guessed it—27 varieties of cheesecake, from the classic original, to flavors like green tea, Dutch apple, and marshmallow chocolate options. Hang out and choose from the surprising wine selection, or take your cheesecake to go, and they’ll wrap it in an adorable, cheese shaped box. 39, Dosan-daero 15-gil, Gangnam-gu

Among the 20 percent of Aruba that’s protected land, Arikok National Park boasts lava fields, limestone terrain, and a small beach, all crisscrossed with picturesque hiking trails. Paths lead to gold mine ruins, former plantations, and paintings by the island’s native Arawak people, making for an exciting place to visit. Explore the park by mountain bike, horseback, or car, or take a free walking tour with a park ranger (reservations must be made at least 24 hours in advance). You’re likely to see snakes, owls, bats, lizards, and myriad birds, as well as goats and the local donkeys.

To truly get away from it all, spend a night or two at Qasr al Sarab. The resort lies on the edge of the Empty Quarter that stretches deep past the Saudi Arabian border with the UAE in endless sand dunes. The resort is fairly self-contained along an arc of oasis. Activities range from camel riding and walks in the dunes to fine dining and spa treatments. Be prepared for a couple hours’ drive from the City of Abu Dhabi, but the spectacular views and quiet resort atmosphere are worth every second.

I like hotels in general, but there’s a special place in my heart for national park lodges. The range of accommodations usually encompasses several levels of vacation budgets (Yay for patriotic inclusiveness!) and there’s nothing better than waking up surrounded by the very sights and sounds you’ve traveled to see. Denali National Park doesn’t have any NPS-owned lodges, but you can get pretty danged close in terms of atmosphere and location (the park is right on the other side of the roaring Nenana River) by staying at this sprawling Holland America-run resort. Recently renovated accommodations include deluxe rooms and suites in buildings strategically placed along the river and deluxe rooms in the Canyon Lodge building. All buildings are served by a shuttle service and linked by paths. Decorated with historic photographs and rustic-chic touches, my suite room was a dreamy blend of civilization and wild surroundings. Falling asleep to the soundtrack of a rushing river just feet from my window was perfect way to end a day spent in the park. [This photo is a view from my window just before midnight in late June. Midnight!]
Ann Shields traveled to Alaska and the Yukon with Holland America Line as part of AFAR’s partnership with the United States Tour Operators Association (USTOA), whose members provide travelers with unparalleled access, insider knowledge, and peace-of-mind to destinations across the globe. For more on Ann’s journey, visit the USTOA blog.

The all-suite historic Carillon Miami Beach sits along private white sands forming its own luxury haven. An anchor for the North Beach neighborhood, the hotel is the perfect base for exploring the endless attractions and events that surround it. Boasting South Florida’s largest spa combined with one of the most comprehensive wellness programs on the East Coast of the U.S, the resort also offers an extensive array of recreational activities allowing you to create the ideal vacation stay.

Personal Concierges can arrange it all for you, whether it’s a night out on the town, a spa treatment, or dinner in the hotel’s new THYME restaurant. You don’t have to be a VIP, as every guest is given the same superior service from the moment you check into one of the 150 one- or two-bedroom suites. On-site active offerings include more than 40 complimentary indoor and outdoor fitness and movement classes each day, a two-story indoor rock wall, and four swimming pools—including an adults-only rooftop pool.

Health and wellness options feature nutritional counseling, acupuncture, diagnostic testing, and functional medicine. Pampering time in the magnificent 70,000-square-foot integrated spa and wellness space can get you indulging in European-inspired Thermal experiences, as well as such treatments as massages, facials, sound therapy, and even the chance to enjoy your therapies side-by-side with your traveling companion.

Executive Chef Fritz Zwahlen delights with four dining venues featuring fresh, local produce. The latest restaurant, THYME, pairs American fare with views of the water. Carillon Bar & Lounge, The Cabana, and the Juice Bar are more choices for meals and drinks.

A favorite brew stop in the trendy Parap neighborhood, Laneway Specialty Coffee burst on to the scene in 2014 with a mission to enhance the flat coffee culture in Darwin. It seems the owners have been successful; the airy cafe draws a crowd every weekend, especially on Saturday mornings when the Parap Market assembles a block away. A spinoff in Winnellie, Besser Kitchen & Brew Bar, opened in 2016 with a similar exposed-brick look. The secret? Good coffee, good food and good service. The “bronuts” (brioche doughnuts) ain’t bad either.

Once the sacred retreat of King Kamehameha, who unified Hawaii, Ko Olina now also welcomes guests to the new Four Seasons Resort Oahu. Chef Ryo Takatsuka marries local flavors to Capri’s at this romantic restaurant, where outdoor tables soak up views of the sunset and stars. Wine Spectator gave it a 2017 award of excellence for its list, which runs especially strong on French, Italian, and Californian vintages. But don’t let that distract from its superb cocktail options like the Pompelmo (gin, grapefruit oleo, aromatic bitters, and egg white) or the Spritzer della Casa (Aperol, strawberries, Cocchi Americano Rosato, and basil tincture, finished with prosecco). The bar also serves an indulgent array of nonalcoholic drinks, including the Tutti Santi (Oahu passionfruit and Hawaiian honey graced with lime and sea salt).

Berlin prides itself on its farmers’ markets, which take place every Saturday (and sometimes during the week) all across the city and often have a wonderful atmosphere along with top-notch local produce. The Saturday Winterfeldtmarkt on Schöneberg’s Winterfeldtplatz is one of the most impressive, with more than 100 stalls that sell flowers as well as delicious food. The Saturday bio market on Prenzlauer Berg’s pretty Kollwitzplatz offers an array of local organic goods—from fruits and vegetables to chocolates and fresh pasta—as does the food market at Friedrichshain’s Boxhagener Platz. To get a taste of Turkish Berlin, head to the Landwehr Canal’s Maybachufer on Tuesday or Friday, when the local Turkish community sets up stalls there selling food, clothes, textiles, and more.

It might be the handpainted Venetian chandeliers, but Quattro elevates the concept of a ski resort restaurant. This is a level of cuisine and ambience you’re more likely to find in New York or San Francisco. On chef Jeremy Trottier’s menu, the prix fixe fare changes seasonally, with certain favorites, like rigatoni pecorari and risotto, always available. Though Araxi and Bearfoot Bistro lead the party charge during Whistler’s wildly successful Cornucopia festival every November, always check the schedule to see what Trottier is stirring up during this wine and food extravaganza.

Starting out as one of the United Arab Emirates’ first food trucks, Meylas is no longer so much about grabbing a quick bite of local culture on the go, as it is about experiencing the traditional flavours in a small cafe decorated like a “canteen” from a bygone era. You will feel like you’re at the start of the modern development in the UAE. Dallah (traditional coffee pots), henna, shopping bags, postcards, and children’s games are on display and for sale if you choose to take a bit of that culture home with you.


Of course, the food and hospitality is at the center of attention. Locally sourced ingredients contribute to chbaab, a pancake served with date syrup and salonat badu, the traditional bedouin stew made with chicken or lamb. At the end of the meal, you’ll find several sweets like khabees that are spiced with cardamom and saffron or legeimat, which reminds me of a donut hole sweetened with dates syrup and topped with sesame seeds. Coffees and teas are prepared the way they used to be and should not be passed up at the end of the meal while you mull over the days events. I recommend ordering a smattering of anything that looks interesting off the menu to share.

“What better way to understand yoga than to travel to its birthplace?” says Katie Christ. Two years ago, the food stylist put her life in San Francisco on hold to spend two months studying at the Ramamani Iyengar Memorial Yoga Institute (RIMYI) in Pune, India. “It was the biggest luxury I have ever allowed myself.” Katie had been practicing Iyengar yoga, a style of hatha yoga that focuses on alignment and uses props like blocks and belts, for more than 10 years when she decided she wanted to study in India.

She applied to RIMYI, where the venerable B.K.S. Iyengar (above), the founder of Iyengar yoga, occasionally teaches with his son and daughter. “It’s not for the faint of heart,” says Katie. “There’s no music. No incense.” RIMYI requires each applicant to have eight years of Iyengar experience plus a letter of recommendation from his or her yoga teacher. Acceptance can take up to two years. The year before she attended, Katie traveled to Pune for two weeks to experience life in the city.

That first visit happened to coincide with B.K.S. Iyengar’s 90th birthday. “I had no Indian garb appropriate for the festivities, so I went shopping, and in one afternoon I saw so much. A woman making a rangoli, a traditional folk art design, let me try to draw one with colored powder on the street. At the market I saw a man whose sole job was to peel garlic bulbs. I tasted the most amazing chai, made by a chai wallah who used pliers to crush fresh ginger into a pot of milk with tea leaves and ground spices. I knew I wanted to stay. [On my second trip] these experiences would become part of my everyday routine.”

The institute doesn’t provide housing, so Katie used her first visit to find a flat to rent for her two-month stay. “I had the perfect commute: a 10-minute walk through a public garden where I would watch teens flirting on benches and women in saris and sneakers taking their morning power walks.” Classes were held six days a week: two-hour sessions led by a member of the Iyengar family and three hours of open practice each day, and an hour of pranayama (controlled breathing) once a week. “In open practice, I experienced incredible generosity from students who were advanced teachers,” says Katie. “If someone recognized that I was struggling, they would come over to help me achieve better alignment. Several times Geeta Iyengar [the daughter of B.K.S. Iyengar] called out to give me specific instruction.

I felt incredibly fortunate, considering there were up to 120 students in a class.” When she wasn’t in class, Katie and her Australian neighbors, all senior Iyengar teachers attending the institute, would hit the markets and seek out the best chai, Indian sweets, and chappals (sandals). On Sundays they took trips to sights like the ancient sculptures and paintings in the Ellora and Ajanta caves. Katie felt her body becoming stronger and her head becoming clearer with each passing day. “The goal of yoga is to calm the chatter of the mind. When I arrived I had tons of chatter,” she says. “After practicing so intensely every day for two months, the chatter became a murmur.”

From $450 for a one-month program, not including meals and accommodations. 91/(0) 20-2565-6134, bksiyengar.com. This story appeared in the January/February 2012 issue.

Named after an artistic city in central Mexico, Sedona’s Tlaquepaque Arts and Crafts Village is one of the best outdoor shopping spots in Arizona. Sycamore-shaded fountain-filled courtyards and vine-covered colonnades are home to over forty galleries, boutiques, and restaurants. (The architecture may only be a few decades old, but this is one of the most well-done ‘pseudo-Mexico villages’ in the U.S.) The emphasis is on Southwest sculpture, blown-glass, painting, ceramics, textiles, and jewelry. If you want to take a break from your red-rock ramblings, this is the place.

Standard airport hotels usually veer between functional minimalism and predictable classic luxury. Not citizenM. The hotel is a perfect blend of comfort, luxury, and sass. The hip exterior gives away to a stylish lobby, bedecked with iMacs, work stations, and a hip bar. Rooms are spacious and full of quirky little touches - cushions, menus, and TV sets emblazoned with ‘citizenM welcomes you Citizen *insert guest name*' add a personal touch to the proceedings. Fast wifi and windows overlooking the runway ensure a great stay at the hotel. Our favourite part however came at breakfast - while the chic buffet has plenty of breakfast staples such as cheeses, baguettes, and cold cuts, there was a refreshing array of detox juices, fruit smoothies, and incredible coffee that made our morning. While its proximity to Charles De Gaulle Airport makes ideal for flights landing or departing at odd hours, citizenM also makes for a great base to explore the sights around Paris if you’re thinking of renting a car.

You’re planning a visit to Sonoma. Where will you stay? An inn? Typical hotel room? B & B? I have a recent find in Sonoma wine country that you might not have considered: Graton Hotel Resort & Casino. Even if your adrenaline isn’t primarily sparked by gaming, here are some reasons to stay that will open your eyes. And you just might want to play a hand of Black Jack while you are there. First it is right in Sonoma. It’s classy, clean, new and has 200 spacious, bright, stylish hotel rooms and suites. The hotel part of the resort is completely separate from the casino section with valet service and a serene waterfall feature to welcome you. The expansive lobby, beautifully decorated with wood and stone, original artwork and bright custom-loomed carpets, rivals any luxury resort hotel. The materials and color palette were specifically chosen by the Tribal Chairman of the Federated Indians of Graton Rancheria, Mr. Greg Sarris.“ I wanted it to be opulent, but to reflect the colors of wine country.” he says. The property is near the wonderful little Santa Rosa Airport and transport from the property can be arranged, or is an easy cab ride away, or by car from SFO in 40 minutes. The first-class Spa & Salon At Graton would be enough reason for me to stay here. This full service oasis is staffed by caring professionals and caters to both men and women. The Privai Hydra Facial which combines cleansing, exfoliation and hydration is a non-laser skin resurfacing treatment. I can attest to the exceptional results. The salon has a Walkabout Foot Love service that leaves you with soft feet and beautiful toes either with or without polish. Dining options here either come from existing local hot spots or are concepts created exclusively for Graton Resort & Casino. An Italian restaurant, by San Francisco favorite Tony’s of North Beach serves delicious artisan pizza and Italian classics. Boathouse Asian Eatery serves favorites like sushi, sashimi, Steamed Whole Fish, Chinese Duck Noodle Soup, and Beef Chow Fun made with tenderloin steak and wide flat Fun noodles. For a modern take on Asian-fusion the Jalapeno Poppers with spicy crab, cream cheese, sriracha and unagi sauce are divine. The ubiquitous casino steak house has been re-imagined here as the casually elegant 630 Park Steakhouse. Go “all in” and start with the Seafood Jumbo Jackpot a multi-tiered offering of Maine lobster, shrimp, oysters, Dungeness Crab, and crab claws. Double-down with any of their tender, aged steak cuts or the Ahi Tuna Steak, just seared on the outside and sliced for you. Don’t miss the sides like Creamed Corn (this one is special) Classic Tater Tots or creamed Spinach. There is a ballrooom and event center in a separate building with state of the art sound and lighting in a space that can be configured for a small or large event. Come for a show featuring top talent like Patti LaBelle, Art Garfunkel or Kathy Griffin. The pool area is gorgeous, reminiscent of Miami with its sun lounges and private cabanas upholstered in an eye-popping orange. “Cabo lounges” sit right in the pool so all you have to do is lie down, soak up the sun and trail your hands or feet in the water. And yes there is a full-service pool bar which also makes for a romantic spot at night when the glowing fire pits are lit up under the Sonoma stars.