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A short drive outside the town of San Pedro de Atacama, Tierra Atacama has wonderful views of fields and Volvano Licancabur. The hotel is part of the Tierra hotel group owned by the Chilean-American Purcell family (who also own Tierra Patagonia, Tierra Chiloé, and Ski Portillo). The property originally served as a cattle corral, but Chilean landscape artist Teresa Moller has transformed the grounds, preserving the ancient algarrobo and chañar trees and restoring the adobe walls.

The bedrooms are decorated in natural colors, with local touches like ceramics marching along the sills of the extra-large windows. Animal-skin rugs and alpaca throws provide a touch of warmth for the cool desert nights. You can see the incredible silhouette of Volcano Licancabur from all the rooms, but the Poniente rooms are slightly larger and have better views. There is a friendly communal vibe at the hotel, and upon arrival guests meet with the head guide in the main lounge to choose from the range of group activities on offer each day.

San Pedro de Atacama is a beautiful adobe-esque town on the edge of Atacama Desert in Chile, just west of the Bolivian border. I took this photo in near by Valle De Luna, while I was mountain biking through a virtual moonscape of natural geography. The air is so dry and clear here, you get these amazing colors from sunsets. This wild cloud formation just formed before our eyes, and the setting sun painted this crimson red.... an amazing sight. You have to fly into Calama, (90 min bus to San Pedro), or you overland for a couple days from Uyuni, Bolivia and cross the border into San Pedro. The evenings are full of festive small bars with fireplaces and good fun. Try Andes Traveller to rent bikes or horses (www.andestraveller.com.ar). Go hike or bike through Valle de Luna and get lost in time. You can trek, sandboard, see flamingos at the nearby Las Flamencos national reserve, and hot springs; all very close to town. Shot with velvia film and tripod. nikon f100 no filters or heavy processing, just natural magic light!

A full day of driving and exploration in a 4x4 from San Pedro de Atacama in the Altiplano near the border with Bolivia and Argentina are the highland lagoons of Miscanti and Miñiques, at an altitude of 13,860 feet. The scenery here is awe-inspiring with a palate of extraordinary colors that seem to be painted like a dreamscape encasing the Andes and volcanoes. Also worth exploration is is the remote Salar de Tara, close to Paso Jama and the Argentine border, with its marvelous rock “statues” (shown in the picture). Of the most famous is the “nuns” of Tara. Pack a picnic and take time to relish the scenery there with views of the Licancabur volcano, bird life, and salt lakes. You cannot help but feel inspired.

A four-wheel drive vehicle can easily take you back in time in northern Chile. These perfectly preserved petroglyphs were seen at Yerbas Buenas, a 45 minute drive from San Pedro de Atacama along both paved and dirt roads. The area is cared for by a park ranger (there is a small entrance fee), and you can enjoy well maintained trails and more than a thousand prehistoric petroglyphs. The petroglyphs were created by the Atacameno people and date back approximately 10,000 years. For the more adventurous, a rocky road leads you back to more remote sites. Also nearby is the stunning Rainbow Valley, where you can view rocks and cliffs in all shades of colors, including beautiful greens and blues. Be forewarned that the area surrounding Yerbas Buenas and Rainbow Valley is extremely remote. There are no tourist facilities at all other then well cared for bathrooms at Yerbas Buenas, so come prepared. However, it is well worth the drive, as you will be rewarded with brilliant views, particularly at sunset.

The first glimpse you take at the Valle de la Luna (translated: “Moon Valley”) will make you feel like you’re visiting another planet. The deep red rocks, the massive sand dunes, and the speckling of salt across the surface is like nothing else I have seen on Earth. Peer closely at many of the rocks and you will see deep veins of salt. Stand close (and be quiet) and you can hear the rhythmic crackling of the salt as a result of the pressure in the rocks. The valley itself is 22 million years old, and scientists believe the salt was left behind from when an ocean covered this part of Chile. Located just a few miles outside of San Pedro de Atacama, the Valle de la Luna is an incredible place to hike, bike, and take in a spectacular sunset.

Salar de Uyuni, located in the Daniel Campos province of Bolivia, looks like it belongs on another planet. Stretching for more than 4,050 square miles—a little smaller than the state of Connecticut—it is the world’s largest salt flat, formed when several prehistoric lakes dried up 25,000 to 10,000 years ago, leaving behind hexagonal patterns of salt on the otherwise featureless surface. When nearby lakes overflow, or the area gets rain, a thin layer of water covers the expanse, transforming it into a massive reflective mirror that makes for jaw-dropping, dreamlike photos.


The natural wonder has served as a valuable source of salt and lithium for Bolivia, and it has long been a hot spot for tourism in South America. There’s even a hotel built out of salt bricks: the Palacio de Sal. If you’re planning a trip to witness the surreal beauty of the Salar de Uyuni salt flat, here’s what you need to know.



To see Salar de Uyuni’s breathtaking mirror effort, visit during wet season, from December to April—but be aware that when it gets too rainy, it can be hard to get around and you might not be able to access certain areas. May to November is the dry season, which means temperatures are colder, but the ground is harder and you can drive across the land more easily.



The ideal month to visit is May, when the seasons transition from wet to dry and you’ll have a good chance of seeing the salt flats both dusty and reflective.



Salar de Uyuni sits near the point where Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile meet, so tourists tend to come from three different starting places.



The town of Uyuni in Bolivia is the most popular place to embark on tours of the salt flats. The small town is so close to the flats, you can easily take day trips. If you’re traveling from La Paz to Uyuni, you can take a one-hour flight or an eight-hour overnight bus.



San Pedro de Atacama in Chile is another well-known starting point for tours of the salt flats, but because it’s about 200 miles away, most tours are three days long.



If you’re coming from Argentina, look into multi-day tours operating out of Tupiza, Bolivia, a good base less than 60 miles over the Argentinian border.



Tour operators in the region offer shared or private tours. Shared tours are more affordable, but they don’t offer much flexibility when it comes to your schedule. Also, most shared tours are led by Spanish-speaking guides, while private tours can offer English-speaking ones.



Many tours of the salt flats also go to other attractions in the area, such as the Polques hot springs, the Atacama Desert, and high-altitude lakes like Laguna Colorada. Look into tours originating in San Pedro de Atacama and Tupiza for itineraries that include these destinations.



Salar de Uyuni is located nearly 12,000 feet above sea level, so you might experience altitude sickness symptoms such as nausea and headaches and should plan accordingly.



To enter Bolivia, travelers must have a tourist visa, which costs $160 for U.S. citizens, and a yellow fever vaccination certificate if they are traveling from a country with risk of yellow fever.

The confluence of two rivers takes place in Guatín where one hails from the warm thermal springs of Puritama, and the other is the Purifica River, whose waters are from the Andes Mountains. This unique mix of warm thermal spring water and cold clear mountain snowmelt gives rise to the new river which supports the unique ecosystem of the Guatin Canyon. One of the most fun hikes in San Pedro is to trek alongside waterfalls, switching back and forth over large rocks. The canyon is also covered in different cacti like the amazing Candelaria cactus that can grow to be several meters tall. Photo: Francisco Ramirez (Eat Wine Blog)

“Chile has nearly 4,000 miles of coast, one of the most arid deserts on earth, and mountains that climb to 22,000 feet. Imagine the diversity,” marvels Rodolfo Guzmán. The chef behind Santiago’s restaurant Boragó is on a mission to promote his country’s over-looked ingredients, such as the superacidic copao fruit, which grows in the Atacama desert. “We want to show diners something that is only found here.” Many chefs source locally but then use European techniques in the kitchen. Guzmán, however, bakes his grouper and basil chlorophyll in a mud oven—a technique the indigenous Mapuche people have used for centuries. Avda. Nueva Costanera 3467, 56/(0) 2-953-8893. This appeared in the October 2012 issue.

About a two-and-a-half hour drive from Santiago (or 30 minutes by helicopter), Puma Lodge is located in the Andean foothills near the Argentine border. The lodge is part of the Chilean-owned Noi hotel group, which also has properties in Patagonia, Atacama, Santiago, and more. Opened in 2011, Puma Lodge has a ski chalet feel, with wooden interiors and a large fireplace in the middle of the bar and lounge area. The 24 rooms are all the same category, and the design is simple and comfortable with touches such as colorful throws and local artwork.

Many guests choose Puma Lodge for the heli-skiing, but there’s plenty on offer year-round and for the less intrepid traveler. Activities include hiking, horseback riding, or heading out for a picnic lunch by the river. There’s also an on-site spa, yoga studio, and wine cave. Outdoor hot tubs are great after skiing, and a swimming pool is a draw in the summer months.

Although Chile’s central coastline boasts a string of attractive beaches along with towns filled with visitors seeking relief from the heat, the truth is the water is freezing cold year-round due to the Humboldt Current that brings Antarctic water up the coast. You’ve got to go pretty far north to find temperate seas. Bahía Inglesa is a stretch of coastline where the turquoise waters are tranquil, the sand is white, and there are dozens of beaches—some are along waveless bays (perfect for children), and others are great for scuba diving, kayaking, and kitesurfing. The area has restaurants for all tastes, and while there are lots of lodgings, in summer crowds flock in, so reserve as early as possible.

Located next to Torres del Paine National Park and Lake Sarmiento, Awasi Patagonia is the perfect setting to take in some of the most striking views in the Chilean Patagonia region. Awasi Patagonia comprises 12 private villas and a main lodge with a restaurant and comfortable lounges to admire the scenery. All buildings are made of local procured wood, which allows the structures to easily blend with the surrounding natural landscape.

Awasi promotes a tailor-made experience at its two properties, Awasi Atacama and Awasi Patagonia, and the team pays close attention to ensure each guest’s visit is personalized to their needs and tastes. Ahead of a stay, guests complete a questionnaire outlining special interests, physical conditions, and meal requirements, and their preferences are seamlessly blended in to their stay. A stay at Awasi is also all-inclusive, and comes with excursions led by Awasi guides who are educated on the region’s history, wildlife, and first aid, and can lead you through the park’s stunning trails on foot, horseback, or 4x4 vehicle on full- or half-day outings. Guests can also follow trails from the property to explore the area at their own pace.

And while the breathtaking landscape is not to be missed, there is much to do at Awasi Patagonia itself. Awasi Patagonia is a member of Relais & Châteaux, and is home to a restaurant showcasing Patagonian cuisine and led by Executive Chef Federico Ziegler. Villas are also equipped with fireplaces in the living rooms and outdoor hot tubs, perfect for relaxing and enjoying the remarkable destination.

Step inside from the dusty street into this walled oasis in the town of San Pedro. With only eight unique cottages and plenty of sun-drenched terrace space, this exquisite hotel (a Relais & Chateaux property) has sofas strewn with local textiles in vivid colors. Awasi is all about privacy and getting away from the crowds, so meet with your private guide to custom-design the excursions to your interests and activity level (after acclimating to San Pedro’s 8,000-feet altitude). Visit far-flung altiplanic villages, enjoy dawn with just you and the flamingos. Back on the homestead after a day, the chef woos guests with refined creations, local ingredients, and a great wine list. After dinner, linger by the mammoth fire pit to sip the rest of your Chilean cabernet under the stars.

Its imposing structure now in ruins like an ancient stone temple, the sea-facing Huanchaca silver foundry was abandoned at the beginning of the 20th century only to be named a national monument in 1974. At its foot now sits the Museum of the Atacama Desert, a striking, largely underground building opened in 2009 that was designed by a leading Chilean firm and reflects the same monumental scale as the foundry. The galleries are dedicated to geology, astronomy and archaeology, while the site as a whole—the museum, the foundry ruins and a foundation that supports local artists—forms the Huanchaca Cultural Park. It has quickly become a popular stop for visitors to Antofagasta, providing an excellent introduction to this region of Chile.