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My visit to the Chichu Art Museum was somewhat of an art pilgrimage. My journey started with a flight across the Pacific Ocean, followed with several bullet trains, a ferry through the beautiful Seto inland sea for Naoshima island, and at last, a walk of a few miles by a serene landscape to find a vessel for art under a veil of green grass. While many modern museums use its architecture to make a statement, the Chichu Art Museum—Japanese for “in the earth”— opted to become one with its natural settings. Architect Tadao Ando built the museum with the intent to “rethink the relationship between nature and people.” He also gave himself the challenge of using sun as the sole light source for the artwork. The museum is primarily made of steel, glass and concrete with many galleries designed specifically for the art pieces from Claude Monet, James Turrell, and Walter De Maria. I’ll never forget how the water lilies in the Monet painting glowed and came to life under ambient light. While underground, guided by natural light pouring from above, I felt like I was in a futuristic cave discovering relics from the past. The art, along with the architecture fused with nature, make Chichu Art Museum the most illuminating museum I’ve ever been too.

Set stoically atop a handsome steed, the statue of Jean-Jacques Desalines bears every bit the exalted “Father Of A Nation” status you’d expect from the only person to have a holiday celebrated in his honor in Haiti. The statue is the centerpiece of a collection of memorials honoring Haiti’s heroes set in the Le Champs de Mars area of downtown Port-au-Prince. Here, big, broad boulevards intersect among a series of squares, parks, and wide open spaces, each bearing statues of Haiti’s legendary statesmen creating what’s easily the most impressive public space I’ve come across along my Caribbean travels. I got to tour around Champs de Mars on my last visit to Haiti in early-December 2017 while staying at the Marriott Port-au-Prince. Haiti’s newest and nicest hotel sits just a few blocks from the area, though walking to Champs de Mars from the Marriott isn’t advisable. What little sidewalk space exists between the two is jammed with locals selling all manner of goods along the road. There’s really just no room to walk until you get to Champs de Mars. Take a taxi then enjoy the sights, history, and local art for sale all throughout the various squares and parks.

Could there be a more glorious setting for a cheese’s origin? These pastures surrounding a hilltop village (Gruyères) crowned with a castle (the Château de Gruyères), happy Swiss cows grazing with views of the Alps all around, producing the milk which, in time, arrives on grocery shelves as cheese around the world, stamped ‘GRUYÈRE’...and there’s a geometric garden in the castle’s courtyard, too.

The early-10th-century Greek Orthodox church of St. Lazarus in Larnaca has the distinction of being the supposed last (and final) resting place of Lazarus, the New Testament figure raised from the dead by Jesus. According to some legends, Lazarus became a bishop of Larnaca after his resurrection. The church, which has also served as a Roman Catholic church as well as a mosque, was renovated after a fire in the 1970s. In the process, bones were found that were said to be those of Lazarus. There’s a fine small ecclesiastical museum in an adjoining building from 1856. Many of the church’s icons are extremely beautiful and rare.

Guests at this 13-room retreat in Costa Rica’s central highlands can tour the estate’s 36 acres of coffee fields. After the walk, try a “cupping,” or tasting, of the shade-grown organic blends. End with a soak in your suite’s jungle-view tub. From $250. (305) 395-3042


After a couple days resting up at The Retreat Costa Rica, I was off on my next adventure. Finca Rosa Blanca, which doubles as a boutique hotel and coffee plantation, proved the perfect setting for exploration both near and far. I stayed in the La Guaria junior suite—each has it’s own name—this one named after a local flower. Having come from New York where apartments are cramped, I was pleasantly surprised by the spacious layout of the villa. The entrance leads into a circular area, with sky lights above that form a sort of dome. There’s a separate kitchen and dining area, a bathroom complete with a whirlpool, and a separate bedroom featuring a kingsize bed. My favorite part of La Guaria were the two balconies. There’s a small one right off of the bedroom, where I’d usually listen to the rain falling hard against the roof in the afternoon. In the mornings and again in the evenings, I’d make myself a cup of coffee and catch up on my emails outside on the larger terrace. It overlooks a large grass farm, as well as the flowers that grow on the property.


Speaking of coffee, Finca Rosa Blanca, is also a coffee plantation. On my first full day at the hotel, I signed up for their guided coffee tour, where I learned the ins and outs of coffee-making in Costa Rica—things like how Arabic coffee is the only type of coffee grown here and how the blonder the roast, the more caffeine it has; I always assumed the opposite. Our tour group was small but we had a guest appearance by the finca’s two adopted dogs—aptly named Finca and Rosa. It’s a mother and daughter, and I loved watching them run around the plantation and play in the little waterfall separating one bank from the other. The second part of the tour was an actual coffee tasting, where we sampled a “good” cup of coffee and an “over roasted” cup. I was surprised how many flavors and aromas I could pick up despite always claiming that I have a poor sense of smell...and silently resolved to skip the milk and sugar next time.


As for the food and lounge areas, there are some really creative spots. The El Tigre Vestido restaurant has both outdoor and indoor seating; I mostly ate in their open-air sections but definitely took advantage of the fire crackling in the evenings. It can get a little chilly there at night. On my last full day at Finca Rosa Blanca, I went all out. First up was a scenic (and very uncrowded) hike to Barva volcano. I learned that, while a national park, it’s one of Costa Rica’s hidden secrets. There were few tourists along our path, allowing us to feel like we had wandered into an enchanted forest out of a story book. Back at the finca, I indulged at their spa, with their Pura Vida Coffee Detox Package: a Swedish full-body massage, a coffee and chocolate body scrub and a refreshing facial. After a challenging hike that morning, it was just what the doctor ordered. Fun fact: There’s some great art here and I’m not just talking about the murals on the walls (there are some super colorful ones at the pool); One of the owners, Glenn, is an artist by trade and he designed all the metal work seek throughout the property, right here on-site.

Like its nearby sister, the Belmond Hotel Monasterio, the Belmond Palacio Nazarenas is a hotel with ancient roots: the onetime private residence-turned-convent—and now turned hotel—has original Inca walls and colonial-era frescoes.

As a newer hotel (it opened in 2012, following years of renovation and restoration), the all-suite property also has plenty of modern touches. All rooms are enriched with oxygen, to help guests adjust to the altitude, and have iPads, WiFi, and espresso/tea bars; depending on the category, they might also have heated bathroom floors, balconies, or original Inca and colonial design features.

Other perks include Cusco’s first outdoor heated pool (with an adjacent pool bar), an intimate restaurant highlighting seasonal ingredients, and butler service for all—just like the Palacio’s original residents would have enjoyed.

I’ve been all over the California coast and Point Lobos is my favorite place to hike. We have hiked every trail in this reserve and never tire of this magical place. You can see many animals, such as sea otters, seals, elephant seals,sea lions, squirrels and deer that are often in little pockets near the trails. Most of the hikes are easy to moderate, you can make them longer by combining them or just hike smaller parts. There is a whalers cabin that has been transformed into a little museum at one end of the reserve.

Established in 1800, the Library of Congress is the oldest federal institution in the United States. The library was destroyed by British troops just 14 years after its conception, and Congress used Thomas Jefferson’s collection of 6,487 volumes to replace it. Today, the collection of the Library of Congress—housed across three buildings—grows by approximately 12,000 items a day and is the second largest library in the world with 164 million items and 838 miles of shelves (that’s farther than the distance from Washington, D.C. to Chicago!). The library holds the world’s largest collection of comic books and one of only three remaining Gutenberg bibles. The Library of Congress offers daily guided tours to explore its historic collection and famous Beaux-Arts architecture.—Miranda Smith

Centuries-old catacombs decorated with human bones pepper the crypts at this Franciscan monastery dating to 1774. Decked out in impressive Spanish Baroque architecture, the canary-yellow church and monastery also house a remarkable library with some 25,000 antique texts (some predating the Spanish Conquest) and are flush with romantic courtyards and cloisters. Don’t forget to look up: A magnificent Moorish-style cupola, carved of Nicaraguan cedar in 1625, oversees the main staircase.

The Avenida da Liberdade in Lisbon is the wide avenue in the center of town. After the earthquake of 1755, the Minister Pombal designed the new Lisbon and for the main avenue, he used the Champs Elysees in Paris as his model. This is a beautiful street with small side streets lined with trees. There are many upscale stores, boutiques, and hotels lining the avenue. As you stroll along you notice an unusual feature.You look down and see the unique black and white tiles in all sorts of patterns. All of the main and side streets in Lisbon have these tiles. I am always fascinated with the complicated designs. If you are lucky, you’ll get to see workmen replacing missing tiles. It seems as though this is a daily occurrence. You don’t want to drive in Lisbon. It’s too busy and the buses, metro, elevators, and ancient trolleys are much more fun. Buy a Lisboa Card and the transportation is usually free. You can look up your choice of transportation in the booklet that you get when you make your purchase. Any information center sells the card. Information centers are indicated on maps of the city. Pick one up at the desk at your hotel. Strolling down the Avenida with it’s tiles is something that makes me feel happy. Can’t wait to go again to this beautiful, ancient, European, capital city.

We were offered the chance to visit Pompeii or Herculaneum when we docked at Sorrento. People rave about Pompeii because it’s absolutely huge and gives you a great sense of just how sophisticated Roman civilisation was. Herculaneum, by contrast, was a Roman seaside town, a sort of holiday resort, and doesn’t offer the same kind of scale. Still. I remembered my Latin lessons, and how we’d learned that while Pompeii’s buildings were smashed and burned by the falling volcanic ash, Herculaneum was actually preserved in the thick mud that engulfed it. And it’s true: wandering around the archaeological remains of the town, you feel like you’re in a place that’s only recently been abandoned. The wine shop (above) still has its amphorae stacked to the side, the houses have beautifully preserved frescoes and mosaics. What it lacks in size it more than makes up for in detail.

While cute souvenir shops and even haute couture boutiques exemplify the changing face of the retail scene in Siem Reap, the city’s famous Old Market remains a heady hub of traditional trade and commerce. Located right in the heart of town, Psar Chas is amply stocked with lots of things that you might want to buy—as well as plenty of things you probably do not. That said, perusing the labyrinthine aisles full of silverware, silks, handicrafts, spices, stone carvings, and other assorted ephemera is worth a couple hours of anyone’s time. Stay calm and haggle politely with a smile on your face, and you’re sure to find a bargain or two.

Two hours from Rio de Janeiro, off the coast of Angra Dos Reis, Ilha Grande makes for a spacious retreat for two or an epic group vacation. The private island’s six-bedroom house comes with kayaks and stand-up paddleboards, plus a staff ready to whip up caipirinhas at all hours of the day.

Why we love it: A three-island sanctuary oozing luxury and exclusivity that’s surrounded by immaculate beaches. The Highlights:

• Spread across three islands, the resort is home to Ithaafushi Private Island, accessible only via yacht
• Terra, a dining destination set in bamboo pods hanging from trees, is just one of 11 restaurants and bars
• A water park, variety of water sports, and PADI dive center

The Review: Perched on three inter-connected islands a 30-minute boat ride away from Malé International Airport, this newly opened (July 2019) high-end resort marks a new pinnacle for Waldorf Astoria and Maldives luxury. 122 villas (all with private infinity pools) are spread across the three islands, with three of them set on the exclusive Ithaafushi Private Island. The private island includes a dedicated chef and personal concierge team, its own overwater spa and gym, five swimming pools, an entertainment center, and pristine beaches.

Not to worry if you’re on the other two islands: there’s plenty of luxury and plenty to keep you busy—or not—the beach and multiple pools are calling. Set aside time for the lavish spa, comprised of ten overwater or garden treatment villas while your kids spend time at the Waldorf Astoria Young Discovery Water Park. The whole family will enjoy the Ocean Pavilion, which hosts a range of activities like yoga and paddle-boarding; has a fully-equipped fitness center; and is home to a combined water sport and PADI dive center. The resort features 11 distinct dining destinations, each more interesting and extravagant than the last. From Terra and its bamboo pods to a grilling spot from Dave Pynt, the Michelin-starred chef behind Singapore’s Burnt Ends. There’s also a wine cellar carved into rocks, Middle Eastern spot Yasmeen, and Glow, which offers interactive garden-to-table dining using the bounty of the on-island garden.

After marching within 100 miles of London to restore the Stuart monarchy to the British throne, Jacobite supporters, led by Bonnie Prince Charlie, retreated to this site near Inverness in 1746. Here at Culloden, they were slaughtered by forces loyal to King George I and the House of Hanover during one of the most harrowing battles in British history. The aftermath was equally brutal, as a massive military crackdown across the Highlands followed in order to prevent further uprisings from disaffected Scots.

Today, travelers can tour the richly researched Culloden Visitor Centre, which features artifacts from both sides of the battle as well as interactive displays that detail the background of the conflict. You can also walk the front lines where the Jacobites made their final stand, then look inside the newly restored Leanach Cottage—the only surviving building from the battle.