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Founder’s note from the September/October 2011 print issue of AFAR Magazine.

AFAR chose a destination at random and sent writer Marisa Meltzer with 24 hours’ notice to a land of cashmere goats, yak slippers, and near-naked wrestlers.

Tomato fight, anyone?

Steven Petrow arrives with some trepidation in the Scandinavian birthplace of ABBA and a certain meatball.

Founder’s Note: Surprised in Sicily

“Travel exposes you to new flavors and ideas in a way you can’t escape (and probably don’t want to).” — Emily Butters, Royal Rose Syrup

We asked one Roman local how to experience the best of his city.

AFAR chose a destination at random and sent writer Danielle Henderson on 24 hours’ notice to a casino capital with hidden charms.

Johannesburg is home to a good variety of people and cultures from all across Africa. Some of the more prominent culture clubs in town are Nigerians, Zimbabweans, Angolans and Ethiopians who all bring a little bit of their traditions and stylings into their businesses in Johannesburg. If you’re looking for a good African meal, Little Addis Café aka Kassa’s Kitchen in the Maboneng Precinct is a great place to go! Run by the very friendly Kassa, this homely, venue is watched over by a large portrait of the most prominent Ethiopian leader, Haile Selassie. If you can’t find place inside, there’s always a nice spot in the shade on a sunny afternoon on the sidewalk, I had the veggie and meat combo which was served with traditional injera (Ethiopian flatbread). Using your hand to eat is the only way to do the traditional meal justice!

An exclusive talk with photographer Todd Selby.

AFAR chose a destination at random and sent writer Mickey Rapkin with 24 hours’ notice to a Central European city where tech trumps goulash.

AFAR chose a destination at random and sent writer Brett Martin with 24-hours’ notice to the most challenging island in the Caribbean.

Debre Birhan Selassie is a small church located in the heart of Gondar, Ethiopia. The original church was was built by Emperor Eyasu II, grandson of the great Emperor Fasilides, in the 17th century. The present day church was rebuilt in the 1880s following damage by marauding Sudanese Dervishes. I found the exterior of the church to be rather unassuming but once inside, I understood why this little church is one of Ethiopia’s top tourist attractions. Every inch of wall and ceiling space is covered with painted images. The beamed, painted ceiling will immediately grab your attention. Look up and you’ll see the faces of 123 winged cherubs representing the omnipresence of God and the walls depict biblical scenes and saints. On one end of the chapel, two curtain covered doors lead to Holy of Holies where the church’s copy of the Ark of the Convenant is housed. Above the two doors are icons of the Holy Trinity (the Father, Son and Holy Spirit as represented by three identical men with halos) and the Crucifixion. There’s a lot of significance to the murals and this is the one place where having someone explain them to you makes sense. The priests do offer tours – just be sure to leave a small contribution behind when you leave.

The Mursi tribe of Ethiopia lives within the boundaries of Mago National Park in one of the most remote regions of the country. As is true with other Ethiopian tribes, the Mursi live difficult and often dangerous lives. But as I learned, they also know how to enjoy themselves. Dueling or stick fighting is a popular past time and for the women, beautifying themselves. Men, women, and even children love to paint their faces and wear jewelry and elaborate headdresses. For the women, signs of beauty also include scarification and the wearing of large pottery discs or ‘plates’ (debhinya) in their lower lips. I have to admit that the Mursi sense of beauty is a not pleasant to my eyes and when I found out how they work the plate into their lower lip, it was even more disconcerting. But that’s just on the outside. Through my guide, I was able to exchange a few words with the women in the photo. Despite any hardships they have, they were very friendly and welcoming towards me – we were even able to share a few laughs. In the end, the beauty of the Mursi woman is truly on the inside – they’re not so scary after all.

Cairo Beyond the Headlines