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On the North Fork of Long Island, Shinn Estate Farmhouse Inn is tucked away on a peaceful vineyard. Rooms are in the estate’s historic 1880s homestead, and guests get to experience life on the vineyard—and taste the final product in the winery’s tasting rooms. There is also a lovely front porch and gazebo for kicking back with a glass of wine. A cozy wood-burning stove in the reception area is an ideal spot on a chilly day. Breakfast here is a slow and civilized affair, starting with hot coffee and finishing with a full farmhouse hot breakfast from chef David Page, made from farm-fresh ingredients. This is the pastoral North Fork at its best, designed for lazy afternoons, sleeping in, and one too many glasses of wine.

Step off the beaten path that leads to Jim Morrison’s grave at Père Lachaise and head instead to the lesser-known, yet extraordinary Montparnasse Cemetery. Locals bring metro tickets to leave on Serge Gainsbourg’s grave in honor of his song “Le Poinçonneur des Lilas (The Lilas Ticket Taker).” Nearby rest the poet Baudelaire and eternal lovers Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir. A married couple by the name of Pigeon share a tomb that is as surprising as their family name. Susan Sontag opted for a minimalist grave, while artist Niki de Saint Phalle chose a rainbow-colored mosaic cat for the grave of her assistant Ricardo. Brancusi’s The Kiss sculpture stands at the head of his grave. Stop at a guardian’s kiosk when you enter the tranquil space and ask for a map of the luminaries who have made this their eternal resting place.

Anyone taking diligent notes on Portland decor is sure to notice similarities in design from location to location beyond a love for taxidermy. Much of that Rose City decorating style emanates from Schoolhouse Electric. Located in a 115-year-old redbrick warehouse and factory building in an industrial part of the city’s West Side, Schoolhouse Electric sells everything from perfect reproductions of 1960s-era IBM clocks to more vintage sconces and analogue clocks than you can shake a stick at. The store’s Ristretto Roasters coffee bar provides a caffeine boost when your energy for curated doorknobs reaches its limit.

One of the most stunning natural sites in Tasmania, the Freycinet Peninsula is most famous for a short but steep hike to the perfect white-and-turquoise horseshoe beach known as Wineglass Bay. It’s hard to believe the name comes from a gruesome whaling history that once dyed the bay the shade of red wine. Travelers on an expedition with Freycinet Adventures can kayak the electric-blue waters of Coles Bay and stay in a private camp on secluded Hazards Beach, where they’ll wake up to views of the rocky shoreline, sheathed in orange lichen, and the zigzagging Hazard Mountains, circled by sea eagles. No trip to the Freycinet Peninsula is complete without freshly shucked oysters from the Freycinet Marine Farm.

Salishan Spa & Golf Resort, a lifestyle hotel from Crescent Hotels & Resorts, is a beautifully revitalized property just south of Lincoln City. If you want to escape the dog-days of summer or in winter watch the natural world of Siletz Bay and take a walk along miles of ocean beach- this is the place. Built with quality materials in a thoughtful lodge-style architecture decades ago, covered walkways wind throughout the resort taking you from your room to the common areas of the full-service covered Tennis Center ( with resident pro), outdoor sport court, main lobby, fitness center and pool, conference and event areas, Samphire Restaurant, lobby and Sun Room restaurant. The incredible Salishan Spa, Shops at Salishan, and golf pro shop and golf course are also steps away. Rooms are newly renovated, polished, bright and large. I stayed in the Chinook section and our private patio looked through large firs to the captivating bay across U.S. Hwy 101, perfect for sitting in the rocking chairs with a glass of wine.. The food is also revitalized with Executive Chef Andrew Garrison at the helm, and along with visionary General Manager Steve Hurst they are making a name for themselves in terms of guest care and the jewel of a restaurant here called Samphire. The name Samphire is the name of a salty tasting water plant found nearby. Chef Garrison uses it frequently to ramp up the flavors in his straight-from-the-farm, forager, cheese maker, or fisherman, in his flavorful and fresh cuisine. Tip: Samphire is so popular, book a dinner seating when you make your hotel reservation. So head out to the gorgeous Oregon Coast soon and plan to stay here. You’ll be surprised and delighted. And may not want to leave.

A leader in Portland’s vegetable-forward movement, Quaintrelle has quietly become one of the city’s best fine-dining choices. All this on a strip of Mississippi Street better known for bar crawls and brunch lines than for seasonal cuisine and killer cocktails. The eclectic American menu rotates based on what’s available and in season. Almost all of the food is local, from the tempura Meyer lemons to the carrot and raisin salad. Meals at Quaintrelle can easily double as a primer on what can be grown in Oregon, including wouldn’t-guess-this-is-local ingredients like quinoa and wasabi.

This former royal palace is one of the largest museums in the world, and its art collection is considered one of the most comprehensive. It contains around 400,000 works, although—mercifully, perhaps—not all are on display at any one time. There are some pieces that never get taken off the walls. The Mona Lisa and her smile attract millions of visitors each year. Other must-see masterpieces include the sculptures Winged Victory of Samothrace and Michelangelo’s Rebellious Slave, and the Eugène Delacroix painting The Death of Sardanapalus. There’s no real trick to avoiding crowds at the always-packed museum. The best you can do is try to go in the off-season, early or late in the day, and on a weekday. Your chances of being alone with the Mona Lisa will still be slim to none, but you might be able to actually see that enigmatic smile behind the Plexiglas.

An iconic name in Portland retail—as well as among readers who have never been to the city—Powell’s has multiple locations on both sides of the Willamette. The downtown store remains the one best suited for visitors to explore, with miles of used reads, a tightly curated selection of books from the knowledgeable staff, and every Portland-themed book you could hope to find under one roof. A renovation in 2014 opened up the space and made it feel less like a warehouse of dusty stacks, an improvement that bodes well for the future of the business. Author appearances, even those at the satellite branches, are some of Portland’s best events for interesting discussions.

There’s something about a place being “secret” that makes it exponentially more exciting. Counter Reformation, the European-style wine bar hidden from sight inside the Parker hotel, lives up to that notion. Open from Thursday to Monday, 3 to 10 p.m., the pocket-sized shrine to great wine has no tables and takes no reservations (though leaning at the low-lit 14-seat bar is encouraged). But there is food, and fantastic food at that. Instead of trying to be everything to everybody, Counter Reformation’s tapas menu is short and original, including caviar served with crème fraîche and a quail egg, plus a layered summer tomato salad with melon. The wines are carefully curated from California, France, and Italy, with a few wild cards from places like Portugal and Oregon, and are all priced the same. While the spot has the feel of an insider’s club, it’s without pretense, with the experts behind the bar providing enthusiastic guidance. For dessert, order the foie gras macarons with sea salt, with a sip of champagne. If you overdo it, don’t worry: You can ask for forgiveness in the restaurant’s authentic confessional booth, shipped in from Italy.

The Sunriver Resort is near Bend, Oregon, which is a rightfully famous, and incredibly beautiful, area for outdoor adventure. In the winter, there is skiing at nearby Mt. Bachelor (25 min away), but the summer has even more to do, including golfing, hiking, mountain bike riding, tennis, and of course, swimming in the resort’s amazing pool, which has a water slide, sand play area, hot tub, and amazing views of Mt. Bachelor and the golf course. The rooms are up to date and nicely appointed. The main lodge has a great bar area, a nice restaurant, and a large “back lawn” with live music and kid-friendly activities. Overall, a highly-recommended place for a family vacation.

Turning off the highway into Volcano Village, the one-street town leading into Volcanoes National Park, first-time visitors might think they just made a right turn into Oregon. Cool, misty, and thick with giant ferns, this corner of the Big Island is a small but serious rain forest, nourished mightily by eons of volcanic soil and abundant rainfall. Well concealed down one of the quiet side streets, in their rainforest property, are the four one-bedroom cottages that make up the Volcano Rainforest Retreat. Each is unique—one has a sleeping loft, another is a perfect hexagon, a third has a full kitchen. But with their cedar walls and ample windows and shoji screens, they bring to mind Japanese country houses.


A stone pathway even leads to a Japanese soaking tub sitting outdoors beneath a moss-covered pergola. Interiors have eclectic, tasteful furnishings (leather club chairs, farmhouse-style quilts, handmade ceramics) that make each one feel like the guesthouse of a good friend. Though kids are allowed, and futons are available for extra guests, the setting is best for quiet twosomes, rather than families or boisterous groups of friends, as guest quarters are fairly close to one another. That, and in the hush of the rain forest, loud voices just won’t do.

A devastating fire on April 15, 2019, has closed the interior of the cathedral to visitors. Plans to rebuild and reopen the structure are being made, but at present, visitors are not allowed near the site.
For a first-time visitor to Notre Dame, investing in the audio guide is essential to understand this overwhelmingly significant Paris icon. There’s a lot to see and absorb—history, architecture, artifacts, theology—and the audio guide gives a much-needed sense of direction and context. Even without spiritual ties, the awe-inspiring grandeur of the cathedral is not to be missed from every angle—tour the naves, stroll around the entirety of the exterior, take in the city from the top of the towers, walk along Quai de Montebello to view it from across the water, or admire it from a river cruise down the Seine. The Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris is everything everyone says it is and more.

This week on Travel Tales by Afar, writer Santi Elijah Holley shares his 400-mile hitchhiking journey through Oregon—a leap of faith that tested whether a young Black man could find belonging in one of America’s whitest states.

On this episode of Unpacked, host Aislyn Greene sets off on an eight-day Oregon coast road trip in a Rivian hauling an Airstream and discovers that the hardest part isn’t the miles—it’s the parking.

On this week’s episode of Travel Tales by AFAR, Dolly Parton opens up about her new hotel, HeartSong Lodge & Resort, and the ways travel has shaped her life.