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If you are based in Florence and want to escape the city for a day of wine tasting and good food, Castello di Sonnino, home of the aristocratic Barone de Renzis Sonnino family, is only a twenty-minute drive away, and you can get there on the public bus. The oldest part of this fairytale castle and its rambling outbuildings dates from the 1200s, but it has been added to over the centuries. Part of the Chianti-Montespertoli DOCG, 48 hectares are planted with vines and the wines have won many awards including a gold medal from Decanter magazine for the 2015 Vin Santo. A visit here can include a tour of the cellars, a tasting of the superb wines and lunch in the restaurant: you may even meet Caterina, the present Baroness. And if was you are too tired to make the journey back to Florence, there are several apartments for rent on the property.

Foodies, rejoice. Torvehallerne is a one-stop shop for several meals, snacks, and gourmet groceries or gastronomical gifts. It’s an airy, light-filled building with all kinds of purveyors, from fantastic coffee shops, chefs cooking fresh pasta and serving it hot to you at the counter, a farmers market outside, a tapas bar, you name it. If you’ve ever been to Florence, think of Mercato Centrale, but in a nicer setting and housing more variety. Ride your bike there to grab a bite or to spend the day enjoying its bounty.

Mantova may sound familiar. It’s where Romeo was exiled from fair Verona in Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet. It may not sound like an obvious choice as an artistic hidden gem, but when Shakespeare wrote his play Mantua was a swamp land. The Palazzo del Te was built in 1526, commissioned by Duke Frederigo II Gonzaga and designed by Giulio Romano. The Palazzo itself is an embodiment of Gonzaga’s desire for love and struggle for power. It was built in two phases: The first phase of the Palazzo is rife with frescos of passion, love, and a whole lot of naked gods and goddesses. It was in these rooms where he would probably make believe he was as well endowed as Zeus and play out the sexual scenes with mistresses, of which he had many. The second phase was built in 1530 and in those 4 years Duke Gonzaga got his priorities in order. This time he meant business and aligned himself politically with Charles V—Holy Roman Emperor, aka Charles I King of Spain. Aside from its history, what makes the Palazzo del Te “quality travel” is its location off the beaten track, away from the crowds of tourists blocking your view of the Sistine Chapel or the colosseum. You get an intimate experience with a work of art, or in this case an entire building without being shoveled out (which was my experience at the Sistine Chapel). Give the small towns of Italy a chance, and help preserve lesser-known works of art that deserve it as much as the famous sights in Rome, Florence, and Venice.

Conveniently located a few miles from Florence, this estate has been producing wine and olive oil for over 1200 years, making it one of the oldest in Tuscany—though the current owning family has been involved for “only” about a century. Today, in addition to producing beautiful wines using sustainable and certified biodynamic farming methods, the estate includes a few accommodation options (including a restored farmhouse), a noted cooking school, a restaurant and wine bar, and acres of organic vineyards and olive groves. Book a guided tour to visit the historic cellars, the crushing area, and the wine bar, where you’ll get to taste some of the delicious homegrown products, including wines, olive oil, and Vin Santo. Wine-paired lunches in the bar or main villa can also be arranged, and if you’re there in the summer, take a glass onto the terrace, which boasts views out to Florence’s Duomo.

“In the 1980s, this teahouse was a gathering spot for artists, writers, thinkers, activists, advocates, and revolutionaries to talk about political reform and the ideal future. These days, it’s more symbolic—a tourist spot like the Café de Flore in Paris.” —KK Yeh

This appeared in the November/December 2017 issue.

Guests at this 13-room retreat in Costa Rica’s central highlands can tour the estate’s 36 acres of coffee fields. After the walk, try a “cupping,” or tasting, of the shade-grown organic blends. End with a soak in your suite’s jungle-view tub. From $250. (305) 395-3042


After a couple days resting up at The Retreat Costa Rica, I was off on my next adventure. Finca Rosa Blanca, which doubles as a boutique hotel and coffee plantation, proved the perfect setting for exploration both near and far. I stayed in the La Guaria junior suite—each has it’s own name—this one named after a local flower. Having come from New York where apartments are cramped, I was pleasantly surprised by the spacious layout of the villa. The entrance leads into a circular area, with sky lights above that form a sort of dome. There’s a separate kitchen and dining area, a bathroom complete with a whirlpool, and a separate bedroom featuring a kingsize bed. My favorite part of La Guaria were the two balconies. There’s a small one right off of the bedroom, where I’d usually listen to the rain falling hard against the roof in the afternoon. In the mornings and again in the evenings, I’d make myself a cup of coffee and catch up on my emails outside on the larger terrace. It overlooks a large grass farm, as well as the flowers that grow on the property.


Speaking of coffee, Finca Rosa Blanca, is also a coffee plantation. On my first full day at the hotel, I signed up for their guided coffee tour, where I learned the ins and outs of coffee-making in Costa Rica—things like how Arabic coffee is the only type of coffee grown here and how the blonder the roast, the more caffeine it has; I always assumed the opposite. Our tour group was small but we had a guest appearance by the finca’s two adopted dogs—aptly named Finca and Rosa. It’s a mother and daughter, and I loved watching them run around the plantation and play in the little waterfall separating one bank from the other. The second part of the tour was an actual coffee tasting, where we sampled a “good” cup of coffee and an “over roasted” cup. I was surprised how many flavors and aromas I could pick up despite always claiming that I have a poor sense of smell...and silently resolved to skip the milk and sugar next time.


As for the food and lounge areas, there are some really creative spots. The El Tigre Vestido restaurant has both outdoor and indoor seating; I mostly ate in their open-air sections but definitely took advantage of the fire crackling in the evenings. It can get a little chilly there at night. On my last full day at Finca Rosa Blanca, I went all out. First up was a scenic (and very uncrowded) hike to Barva volcano. I learned that, while a national park, it’s one of Costa Rica’s hidden secrets. There were few tourists along our path, allowing us to feel like we had wandered into an enchanted forest out of a story book. Back at the finca, I indulged at their spa, with their Pura Vida Coffee Detox Package: a Swedish full-body massage, a coffee and chocolate body scrub and a refreshing facial. After a challenging hike that morning, it was just what the doctor ordered. Fun fact: There’s some great art here and I’m not just talking about the murals on the walls (there are some super colorful ones at the pool); One of the owners, Glenn, is an artist by trade and he designed all the metal work seek throughout the property, right here on-site.

The JP Morgan Library’s grand, old-world elegance immediately transports you to turn-of-the-century New York. And at that time, there was almost no one more powerful than financier JP Morgan. He launched U.S. Steel and even served as the unofficial central bank of the U.S. for a time. Though some considered him a national hero, his tight control of banks, corporations and railroads led others to label him one of the original “robber barons.” Morgan was an avid collector of art and books with holdings so vast they were housed at multiple locations in New York and England. Eventually, he decided to consolidate his holdings in a huge library next to his mansion in NYC. Designed by renowned architect Charles McKim and completed in 1906, the Italian Renaissance palazzo-style library holds a staggering collection of illuminated books, historical manuscripts, and old master drawings. The library is rightfully considered McKim’s masterpiece—a majestic, soaring space which is both intimate and warm. It features 30-foot ceilings, three tiers of bronze and walnut bookcases, stained glass, a huge marble fireplace and grand tapestries. Also visit Mr. Morgan’s study, with its red silk damask walls and antique wooden ceiling brought over from Florence. The library is off the typical tourist’s radar. Imagine yourself as Morgan in your private quarters, reveling in the power and wealth at your command.

To stay in Florence is a visual delight. And a stay at the stunning Il Salviatino hotel is simply magnificent. Tucked into the hills above the glistening city of Florence this restored and refined 15th century villa, Il Salviatino exemplifies the grandeur of Florence with great style in the quiet of the Tuscan hills. Surrounded by 12 acres of their private park, and just 15 minutes from the city center accessible by the hotel’s shuttle;, after being in the middle of the hordes visiting the Duomo and the Uffizi it is a most relaxing place to stay. There is a magnificent tiered pool to swim in, a spa, and horseback riding, hot air balloon rides, cooking classes and wine tastings available nearby. Built as a magnificent villa, each room is unique. Some have outdoor terraces, several feature a glass greenhouse enclosure. Another has a bathtub for two with views of the hills. One stunning room is the Affresco Suite, hidden behind a door in the library and boasting an intricate 1886 ceiling fresco by Bruschi, a sarcophagus tub, books on Florence and enough space for two to curl up to read with a glass of wine: this is the definition of refined luxury. From the remarkable stone terrace, one can see the rose garden, the Duomo, and Florence sparkling at night while dining. The hotel restaurant La Cucina del Salviatino serves local specialties with vegetables, herbs and fruit from their organic garden, paired impeccably with wines from their cellar. A most romantic repast here under the stars by their talented chef Stefano Santo will not soon be forgotten. And the opulent breakfast is the perfect way to begin your day of exploration in Florence. Il Salviatino refreshes, inspires and delights the savvy traveler who seeks the beautiful. Compliments to owner Alessandra Rovati Vitali for refreshing this Florence Tuscan paradise and to CEO Marco Milocco for the seamless operation. Be forewarned however, that after being looked after by the attentive and professional staff the hardest part is leaving. https://www.visitflorence.com all photos: Luxepaths Kurt Winner

Florence has been the place to buy leather for centuries, and this workshop has become the place to shop for leather in the past few years. Two best friends, Ben and Matteo, create stylish and modern leather items through traditional methods. Both men had backgrounds in the Italian high-fashion world (Ben worked with Simon Spurr and Luisa Via Roma) before establishing this brand with outlets in Milan, Rome, and Tokyo. Every item is crafted with local leather by Italian artisans outside Florence. The belts, bags, shoes, and jackets have a stylish edge, and each comes with a lifetime guarantee.

What began in pre-war Italy as two small workshops in the Palazzo Spini Feroni on Via Tornabuoni has grown into a fashion empire and a brand synonymous with Hollywood glamour. A museum dedicated to the craftsmanship of Salvatore Ferragamo opened in this grand palazzo in 1995. The collection includes the wooden lasts, or forms, that Ferragamo used to shape shoes for stars like Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, and Sophia Loren. Glass cases display some of the company’s colorful and iconic creations—many that seem more sculpture than shoe. There is also a small space that hosts contemporary art exhibitions.

On sunny days, Parisians head for the Luxembourg Garden, built by Marie de’ Medici in 1611 and modeled after the Boboli Gardens in her native Florence. In addition to the magnificent Medici Fountain, there are more than 100 statues arranged around the garden’s 20 hectares (50 acres), which encompass both formal French and English gardens. Here you’ll find chess players, puppeteers, children sailing tiny boats on the octagonal pool and sometimes a free concert in the gazebo.

La Specola, one of the oldest science museums in Europe, contains a collection of specimens of the natural world—some of which date back to the 16th century. It includes strange and wonderful objects ranging from tiny iridescent green beetles and multicolored butterflies to whale and rhinoceros skeletons. There’s even a hippo, preserved by taxidermy, that was once pet to the Medici family and lived in the Boboli Gardens! The extraordinary, if slightly creepy, anatomical waxes filling the last four rooms of the museum were once used to train Florentine medical students. The frescoes and elaborate pietra dura inlays that decorate the walls and ceilings detail Italian scientific achievements.

When the sun sets, Piazza Santo Spirito wakes up and the large square fills with college students and young professionals. Volume is where they gather for strong cocktails and live music. Located in the former workshop of Alfonso Bini, a woodworker who specialized in carved hat forms and later more-creative pieces, the space retains the warm vibe of the local craft studios. Small tables and chairs are set up alongside shelves crowded with books, tools, and art. Seating outside affords a view of the after-dark action on the piazza as well as the striking Santo Spirito church.

Stefano Bardini, one of the great art dealers of the 19th century, donated his showroom to the city with the strict condition that nothing be changed. The city of Florence initially ignored his wishes and altered the space quite dramatically, but eventually relented. Now most of the rooms are painted an extraordinary shade of blue and the pieces are arranged by size to display the art. The eclectic collection includes paintings, sculpture, and furnishings, as well as small fragments of marble carvings salvaged from buildings. Highlights include an enormous wooden crucifix by Bernardo Daddi and the original bronze of the famous Porcellino, the statue of the boar from the Mercato Nuovo.

Reserve an outside table at this popular enoteca, located on a quiet piazza around the corner from the crowded Ponte Vecchio. You can order a predinner snack or, better still, cobble together a full meal from the selection of crostini with delicious toppings like truffle sausage and melted cheese or spicy ‘nduja sausage. Other menu highlights include the antipasti platters of cheese and mixed cured meats. The staff can help you choose from the wine list, which focuses on small producers. (If you want to expand your wine expertise, guided tastings are also available here.)