Search results for

AFAR chose a destination at random—by literally spinning a globe—and sent writer Eric Weiner on a spontaneous journey to Liechtenstein.

An artist living in East Amsterdam shares her favorite places to go.

Chris Walker and Morgan Hartley spent three months cycling through central Asia as part of an 18-month bike trip. Here is part one of five of their account, in which their trip is almost thwarted from the start.

AFAR chose a destination at random—by literally spinning a globe—and sent comedian Jorma Taccone on a spontaneous journey to Nairobi, Kenya.

When you travel to the Cappadocia region of Turkey you have to stay in a cave hotel. Sleeping in a room carved out of the area’s ‘fairy chimney’ rock formations is inherently cool. When you realize that your room is also literally cool—even in the midday heat—you suddenly have a better understanding of the clever ways people managed to live in a challenging environment for centuries. The hotel’s best feature might be the terrace, where you relax on pillows and eat a Turkish breakfast of apricots and yogurt as you watch dozens of hot air balloons rise from the valley below. From $76. This appeared in the August/September 2014 issue.

Turkey isn’t known for its beer, with most menus dominated by the serviceable yet flavorless Efes. The craft beer movement has been gratefully welcomed (especially by expats), and a few breweries have popped up in Istanbul in recent years. The Populist brewery is part of Bomontiada, a massive complex of art and performance spaces, shops, restaurants, and nightlife on the site of the former Bomonti Beer Factory, which closed in the 1950s and was abandoned for several decades. Populist’s food menu is standard pub fare, with a few surprises like a lamb burger with Carolina mustard sauce and a flatbread pizza with kokoreç (better-than-it-sounds grilled lamb intestines). The rotating selection of 12 beers on tap might include a Belgian Turkish wheat with anise and a hoppy IPA. To reach Bomontiada, take the metro to Osmanbey, and from there it’s a 10- to 15-minute walk through a historically diverse and rapidly changing neighborhood.

Overlooking the Golden Horn in Eyüp, Pierre Loti Hill offers a spectacular panoramic view of Istanbul’s seven hills. Linger here for a while and partake in keyif—the Turkish art of idle relaxation—at one of the rustic teahouses and restaurants that immerse you in one of Istanbul’s most captivating locations. The hill is named after Pierre Loti, a French novelist and naval officer who wrote his first novel, Aziyadé, after sojourning in the teahouses here in 1876. The novel, originally published anonymously, detailed a semi-autobiographical story about Loti’s forbidden affair with a Circassian harem girl named Aziyadé. The love between the 27-year-old officer and the 18-year-old woman was so enduring that Aziyadé died of a broken heart when Loti left Istanbul. Legend also says Loti always wore a gold ring inscribed with her name. Loti’s subsequent novel, La Turquie Agonisante (Turkey in Agony), went on to win the hearts of the new Turkish Republic, which then named a cafe and avenue on Eyüp hill in honor of the author. The name has stayed, the tales remain, and the view continues to inspire the artist within many. To get there, take a bus or ferry from Eminönü to Eyüp, then take the cable car near Eyüp port to the top, or wander past the Eyüp mosque and up through an old Ottoman cemetery. Avoid going on the weekends when crowds vie for the best seats in the house. Alcohol is forbidden due to the proximity to Eyüp mosque.

There are two ways to walk up to the Galata Tower from Karakoy Tram Station: One is to follow the pedestrian traffic and ascend an uninviting steep staircase close to the tram way; the other is to take the more picturesque Kamondo (Camondo) steps on Bankalar Caddesi. Neo-Baroque and early Art Nouveau styles were fused here in the 1870s to create this curvaceous thoroughfare up one of Istanbul’s steepest hills. Abraham Salomon Camondo, of the wealthy Sephardic Jewish Camondo family, funded the construction. He inherited the banking and business success of his forefathers and went on to become the prime banker for the Ottoman Empire in the district of Galata where the stairs are located.

Stylish, secluded Likya Gardens is a hideaway amid the cliffs of Kalkan, a humble old fishing town on Turkey’s Turquoise Coast. Each of the seven suites has its own pool and a patio set on stilts, offering views of a crystal-blue bay and brightly colored fishing boats. Guests can sun on nearby beaches such as Patara or Kaputaş, or enjoy the privacy of the hotel’s beach club, where Moroccan-style cabanas are tricked out with minibars, laptops, and Wi-Fi. Personal butlers can deliver breakfast and book tables at the town’s rooftop restaurants; they’ll even arrange day trips to the Hidden Canyon, with its Indiana Jones–style swinging bridge. From $450. This appeared in the June/July 2014 issue.

Every day millions of people walk down Istanbul’s famous Istiklal Street unaware of the nearby terrace restaurants offering magnificent cuisine and divine views of the Bosphorus Strait—among them, Divan Brasserie Beyoğlu. Opened in 2014, the restaurant excels in plating timeless recipes with modern touches. Take a seat here for lunch or dinner and peruse a menu of regional dishes such as the Albanian-style liver and pan-seared lamb served in eggplant puree along with gourmet pizzas, beef burgers, and seafood dishes. Istanbullus (Istanbul residents) will say you haven’t dined in Istanbul until you’ve dined at a rooftop terrace overlooking the city. Do them proud at Divan Brasserie Beyoğlu. To find it, look for Koć University on Istiklal Caddesi and follow the discrete signage and let the glass elevator take you the rest of the way.

Gülhane Park, recently renovated with the zoo and other structures removed, sits on Sarayburnu peninsula at the base of Topkapı Palace of which it was formerly a part. In April, millions of tulips bloom in colorful displays to celebrate Turkey’s national flower, but all year round the promenade, green lawns, and tea gardens overlooking the Bosphorus are a great place to unwind and watch the world go by.

Çağatay Gülabioğlu’s micro roastery and specialty coffee shop, KronotRop, is located in one of Istanbul’s most hippest neighborhoods. The outlet was a revolutionary initiative in Turkey’s gourmet culinary world, and as such, it set the scene for other third wave coffee roasters in town to blossom. Coffee beans from around the world are imported, roasted onsite, and ground upon order. The beans are brewed from fair-trade, organic, single-origin beans and presented in all styles of caffeine and de-caf concoctions. If you’re missing that favorite cup from home, then KronotRop may have what you’re craving—brewed hot or cold.

This sleek, ultra-modern spot takes its inspiration from the linear forms of Dutch painter Piet Mondrian. The Gezi Bosphorus offers a chic and thoroughly striking alternative to the city’s usual Ottoman aesthetic. Cozy rooms have a retro feel with smoked oak and glass used to create warm yet light-filled interiors. Floor-to-ceiling windows in the Deluxe Bosphorus rooms have attention-grabbing views of Istanbul’s iconic Bosphorus Strait.

The Gezi Bosphorus’ green credentials set it apart and prove comfort doesn’t have to be sacrificed for sustainability. Proudly practically zero-emission, the hotel reuses water in its garden; recycles all papers, plastics, and metals; and produces hot water from excess air-conditioning system energy, making it one of the city’s few hotels to receive Turkey’s Greening Hotel Certification. Just off Taksim Square, staying here puts guests amid Istanbul’s modern city core, steps from the shopping vortex of İstiklal Caddesi but still only a short hop on public transport to the historic quarter of Sultanahmet.

One of the best ways to learn about a location is to go shopping. Head to the local markets to get a feel for what life is really like in a location. As I was visiting Ephesus ruins in Turkey, I made a stop at the Saturday Selcuk Market and was able to see the modern day life that goes on near the ancient ruins. The town sets up this large farmers market every Saturday, but it’s more than just produce. You’ll find a variety of clothes and other necessities. It’s Turkey’s version of an outdoor WallMart market! And this is no tourist market, you’ll be haggling for your bargains next to the locals. Walk around and interact with the vendors and be sure to purchase a bag or two of delicious fruit or nuts for snacks during the day. You can also wander into the many jewelry shops that surround the temporary market stalls or stop for a delicious lunch of mezes at any of the restaurants while you rest your feet. More Information: Selcuk Market is held on a Saturday behind the otogar (bus station)

Located one street back from the tram line in Sultanahmet, Tribal Art Home’s owner Nihat and his assistant Yekta will help you browse their extensive range of hand-crafted ceramics, mosaic lanterns, candle holders, waterpipes (nargile), and textiles—wall hangings, cushion covers, and handbags. The bargaining is minimal as the prices quoted are already reasonable. The guys here can pack and wrap your purchases for safe transportation home. If you’re concerned about the weight of your suitcase, door to door delivery via international post can be organized. Do know that parcel post from Turkey can be expensive, so check the prices by weight before committing.