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Formerly Las Alcobas, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Napa Valley.

Located just a short walk from the downtown area of the charming small town of St. Helena, Alila Napa Valley blends old and new in totally indulgent ways. The center of the 64-room property is a Victorian-style mansion that dates back to 1905. The house has been renovated and is now home to Violetto, an intimate, fine dining restaurant led by award-winning Executive Chef Thomas Lents. The nightly tasting menu, inspired by Northern Italy and Southern France, highlights local ingredients from Napa with items like homemade pastas, fresh salads, and duck confit. Guests can also join for a la carte snacks in the lounge and bar or on the beautiful, wrap-around veranda (don’t miss the chickpea panisse).

Behind the old mansion is the spa, whose building was designed to replicate an old barn with clapboard walls and high ceilings. The vibe is distinctive yet without pretense. Angled around these buildings are stand-alone, three-story structures that house the majority of the guest rooms. Featuring a warm, minimalist aesthetic that highlights, rather than distracts from, the beautiful vineyards it overlooks, each of the spacious guest rooms are decked out in natural materials such as oak, jute, and Carrara marble. Rooms come with cozy bathrobes, well-stocked mini-bars, and inviting balconies with fire pits that will make you want to lounge and linger.

All of this is centered around a large, open-air bar, event reception area, and swimming pool. Though compact, the pool is nestled in an exquisite setting with vineyard views. If you can manage to peel yourself away from the hotel, the property also has bicycles that guests can use to get around town or pedal around the newly built Napa Vine Trail. Or, simply walk a few hundred feet to the winery next door, Beringer, for a sampling of their world-renowned wines. Whatever you choose to do—be it lounge with a glass of wine at the new poolside bar, or retreat for a massage in the on-site spa—you can’t go wrong at this beautiful Napa wine country resort.

Spending a day at a spa was something that never crossed my mind until I heard about the day spa at the Meritage Resort and Spa just outside Napa, California. I decided to give it a go and emerged a believer. Spa Terra is built in a cave under a vineyard behind the resort. The facilities are new, and everything seems perfectly tailored to make the guest feel comfortable. I loved hopping from the hot tub to the steam room and then back again. After relaxing with a cool glass of cucumber water, it was time for a massage, then a shower, and back into the hot tub, after which came wine-tasting in the adjacent Trinitas tasting room and time doing nothing at the outdoor pool. At the day spa, guests choose what they want to do when. Besides the massage appointment time, there is no schedule. I ended my day with a light meal from the resort’s cafe and an invigorating hike in the vineyards above the spa. As a busy writer, teacher, and mom, I felt like I could forget about my day-to-day concerns and just focus on being there in the moment.

While most pizza in the Napa Valley is made with thin crusts and cooked in wood-fired ovens, Velo Pizzeria takes a different approach, featuring a yeast crust that’s doughy and chewy and using pizza ovens. The result is more like the stuff you might find in New York City. Options abound but the Nineteen Steps is by far the most creative, topped with rosemary fries, fennel sausage, tomato sauce, mozzarella, and citrus zest. (There’s also a white pizza topped with wine grapes and gorgonzola.) The menu at Velo also offers pasta, subs, and salads. Inside, the pizzeria has a warehouse vibe, with exposed brick walls and steel railings that lead to a second-floor loft. The restaurant looks out onto the Napa River, providing great opportunities for people-watching on sunny days.

Brasswood Bar + Kitchen is part of Brasswood Estate, a sprawling complex at the north end of St. Helena, comprises a winery, tasting room, restaurant, café, art gallery, and bottle shop. The property was formerly known as Cairdean Estate but was rebranded in 2016. Like many eateries in Napa, this one features local bounty—produce and protein grown in Napa and surrounding counties. Executive chef David Nuno specializes in Italian cuisine, so everything has a bit of a Mediterranean flair. In the restaurant, the duck Bolognese, with duck from Sonoma, is rich and savory; the herb-crusted lamb chop is made with local lamb, as well. The artisan bakery serves food in a less-formal setting; here, pay for your white corn soup or mushroom salad at the counter, and enjoy it by the fountain on the plaza outside.

Housed inside the Westin near downtown Napa, this restaurant stands out among fine-dining experiences. The best time to taste Chef Ken Frank’s classic French fare is during truffle season, when he hosts the annual Napa Valley Truffle Festival. La Toque has been awarded a Michelin star for its cuisine, and the wine list is more than an afterthought, featuring nearly 2,000 selections from around the world. As one sommelier sums it up, “La Toque is a proper restaurant.”

When you tell your friends that you’re headed here, everyone will chime in about the dish that you have to get. ‘Make sure you try the smoked salmon flatbread!’ ‘The burger, be sure to get the burger’.’ ‘The donuts! You have to get the donuts!’ It’s good to know that with breakfast, brunch or lunch, they don’t take reservations. Be prepared to possibly wait and hang out on the porch swings or hang out at the bocce courts and play a while (they’re about a 10-minute walk from Boon Fly). With dinner, they do take reservations and I’d encourage you to get those well-ahead. If you’ve had a big bike ride in nearby Napa Valley or are headed in to downtown Napa for a concert or event, Boon Fly Cafe is just 5 miles away and will leave you with your belly full and happy.

Tucked away on an eight-acre estate at the top of St. Helena’s main street, Harvest Inn could easily be mistaken for a private country manse somewhere in England, or even northern France. Its lush gardens are traversed by winding pathways, and its brick-accented, Tudor-inspired architecture suggests somewhere far more Old World than upstart Napa. Even its sinuous pools and cozy rooms (many with fireplaces and private outdoor hot tubs, mind you) are reminiscent of a style somewhat less rustic-chic than tends to be in vogue here in wine country. Indeed, by Napa Valley standards, the intimate inn is part of the old guard, its original 25 rooms dating back to 1975, just after the famed Judgment of Paris tasting brought the region’s New World wines into the international spotlight.

But the Harvest Inn is no less luxurious than the new resorts popping up all over Napa Valley. It has one of the most desirable locations in one of the most desirable parts of the world, surrounded by celebrated vineyards and presiding over arguably the most picturesque town in wine country. It also features a popular restaurant, Harvest Table, which serves dishes full of ingredients from the hotel’s on-site vegetable and herb garden.

The renowned Meadowood Resort mixes the grandeur of a chalet with the amenities of a five-star resort—located in a private canyon within minutes of downtown St. Helena. The shaded, secluded property revolves around 99 rooms, most of which have high and exposed ceilings, private patios or balconies, wainscoted walls, and beds so comfortable you may never want to get up. Other amenities make Meadowood distinctive, too: Many rooms have heated bathroom floors; some also have deep soaking tubs. Elsewhere on the 250-acre property, all guests have access to the on-site spa, which was renovated in 2017; an on-site fitness center; hiking trails; tennis courts; and a daily wine reception. There’s even a croquet lawn—feel free to grab a mallet and hit some balls or sign up to take lessons with the Napa Valley’s only croquet pro. Of course the on-site restaurant, The Restaurant at Meadowood, is another big draw. More casual meals can be ordered from The Grill. Guests are entitled to a complimentary house car for transport into St. Helena or Yountville.

In the Napa Valley—and in Yountville, in particular—most hotels err on the side of sophisticated luxury. Which makes the North Block Hotel’s quirky style such a breath of fresh air. With the look of a Mediterranean town’s cobbled street, complete with lemon trees and hand-painted tiles, one of Napa’s few modern boutique hotels also displays quirky pieces like The Big Book of Boobs in its lobby. It’s hard to pass through the lobby without having a friendly concierge hand you a glass of bubbly, and the umbrella-shaded “sidewalk” tables seem like places you’d actually while away the hours over bottles of good wine with good friends. The trendy restaurant channels a midcentury Italian cool that’s more Fellini than Michelangelo, unlike most Napa wineries’ inclinations, and the fact that it doesn’t have a Michelin star is actually a vote in its favor in sometimes stuffy, star-saturated Yountville. Of course, the spa is still as luxuriously pampering as any in wine country, and the understated rooms are as decked out with designer amenities as they ought to be—and you might actually be having enough fun to enjoy them.

With dark walls, natural wood accents, and red curtains in front of the elevators, the trend-setting Andaz hotel feels like more of a scene than any other property in downtown Napa. In the center of downtown Napa, the hotel is mere steps from restaurants, shops, and arguably Napa’s best pub: the Norman Rose Tavern.

On check-in, all guests over 21 receive a complimentary glass of red or white wine. The swanky vibe continues into the 141 guest rooms, where hardwood hickory floors complement white marble bathrooms and midcentury modern furniture. The most convivial space in the hotel is the Mercantile Terrace, a second-story roof deck with a full bar menu and fire pits, a favorite of couples and business travelers alike.

The lounge is operated by Mercantile Social, the restaurant in the lobby that serves small-plate food items and cocktails; it also books live acoustic music sets a few nights a week. (And Mercantile Social sponsors free wine tastings daily.) If you haven’t had enough wine, fear not—on site are two tasting rooms from the wine empire built by Napa native John Anthony Truchard: John Anthony and JaM Cellars.

When the hip Andaz hotel chain opened in downtown Napa in 2012 it brought a youthful energy to wine country. In addition to its affordable rooms and excellent locavore-minded small plates restaurant, Farmer’s Table, the Andaz also gives guests a dose of culture. The brand’s Andaz Salon program introduces art, photography, music, and readings throughout its different properties.

Frank Altamura took his time renovating the old Italian grocery store — where he remembers shopping as a child — at the north end of Yountville. His dream was to turn the partly dilapidated building into a casual restaurant with great pizza and Napa Valley wine where locals would love to eat. His dream came to fruition when Ciccio opened its doors in 2013. The menu is simple, straightforward and ever-changing based on what Altamura is bringing in from his Napa ranch, where he also grows Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, Sangiovese and Negroamaro for his eponymous wine. Chef Polly Lappetito (former Executive Chef at The Culinary Institute of America) traveled far and wide in search of the perfect pizza crust, but her’s is in a category all its own — prepared in a hand-tiled, wood-burning pizza oven imported from Italy.

Krug is an important winery for a couple of reasons: Founded in 1872, it is one of the oldest wineries in Napa Valley and it is here that Robert and Peter Mondavi had their infamous disagreement that led to Robert leaving and starting his eponymous winery. Peter and Robert’s parents, Rosa and Cesare Mondavi, originally made their money shipping zinfandel grapes to other Italian immigrants on the East Coast during Prohibition. In 1943, with the money they made, they purchased Krug. The Mondavi family recently renovated the original redwood cellar—lining the walls with staves from the original redwood casks. Now one of the oldest family-owned wine companies in Napa Valley, Krug and its line of C. Mondavi wines is a must visit.

Wine, as they say, belongs at the table. Yet most tasting rooms offer only the wine. For a richer experience, seek out wineries that offer food pairings or, better yet, an entire meal. At Robert Sinskey winery, cookbook author and Chef Maria Helm Sinskey pairs bites made with ingredients from their garden with the new releases of Pinot Noir and the excellent Abraxas, a blend of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Gewurztraminer. Round Pond Estate takes it a step further — the four-course lunch served on the terrace uses all biodynamically farmed produce, vinegar and honey from the estate as well as olive oil that is crushed by stone just a stone’s throw from the winery.

Playful art and sculptures are the centerpiece of the winery, Clos Pegase. A collection of sculptures by famous 20th-century artists greets visitors outside, and the collection continues in the courtyard and tasting room. The owner, Jan Shrem, believes that great art is best shared with the public. The architecture of the Napa Valley winery is also creative—architect Michael Graves designed the grand building with elements that are partly contemporary and bold and partly classical. The wines are produced only from estate-grown grapes. Tours are offered daily at 11:30 a.m. (all ages) and 2:00 p.m. (21 and over only).

Orange County’s first urban winery, Laguna Canyon makes award-winning wines right in town with premium grapes from Napa and Sonoma valleys. Guests can swing by the public tasting room for a range of different experiences, from traditional pours of signature and reserve wines to red wine tastings directly from the French oak barrels. Complete with 62 barrels, a wine press, a bottling line, and an intimate view of the working winery, the tasting room makes for a fun, educational place to spend a few hours downtown. It’s also available for private events upon request.