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Argentina at a Gallop

An old Bohemian artist hangout, a place to eat Norwegian reindeer sausage, and a European-style food market... These eateries offer an extra special touch.

I found Kroměříž when it was almost too late. I had been living in another small city in the Czech Republic for 15 months and, as soon as I realized I really would be leaving, panic set in and I started looking for a new place to settle. That’s how I found myself in love with the small town of Kroměříž. I went alone, walking its streets and parks, photographing Art Nouveau residences, stealing a listen as monks sang in the cathedral, testing out cafes, and taking in the views of the gardens from the palace tower. In the end, I couldn’t stay more than a couple of days, but the unspoiled beauty and quiet of this town stayed with me, like an unrequited love. The Kroměříž palace and gardens are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. They reflect the style of a perfect Baroque garden and played an important role in the establishment of this formal garden style in central Europe. Opening hours vary by month (link to the palace and garden’s official website is below).

The Franciscan Garden is delightful public space just off the busy Wenceslas Square on the site of a former Franciscan monastery and dates back to the medieval period. Head through the Světozor passage from Vodičkova street or the Alfa passage from Wenceslas Square. Find a seat on one of the benches — a great spot for people watching —and admire the climbing roses in bloom or the Church of Our Lady of the Snows. If you have children let them enjoy the playground and an ice cream while you sit back and take a breather under the trees.

A visit to Dubrovnik can give you a glimpse of an older Europe, one with ancient Roman sites and medieval stone walls, with charming cobbled streets and sunny market squares and the blue Adriatic Sea glittering beyond. Savor your time here by walking the city walls, toasting the sunset from a terrace bar, shopping for local crafts and delicacies, and falling in love with the “Pearl of the Adriatic.”

In the past decade or so, Budapest’s restaurant scene has broadened beyond goulash and stuffed cabbage, with trendy new venues serving both a wider variety of international cuisines and elegant, innovative takes on traditional Hungarian fare.

Canals, culture, and cannabis are just a few of the reasons Amsterdam, the capital of the Dutch Golden Age, remains one of Europe’s most popular cities. Two of the must-visit Amsterdam museums include the Anne Frank House and the Van Gogh Museum. After visiting one or both, step into one of the hundreds of coffee shops—legal marijuana dispensaries—with the more well-known ones located in the Red Light District.

The Zizkov TV tower was built in the latter half of the 1980s and there were rumors that the Soviets built the tower to block out radio transmissions from the West. Locals have hated the 700-foot high structure since day one, although public resentment seems to be waining a bit. Public art has also softened the outlook—ten of sculptor David Černý’s giant babies crawl up the exterior. Today, the futuristic tower is best for getting a sky-high view of the city of hundred spires from the viewing platform.

There are two Geysir stores in downtown Reykjavik—both on Skólavörðustígur, the attractive road that stretches upwards towards Hallgrimskirkja. Specializing in high-quality wool garments and outdoor products, both shops are nicely designed and well stocked with Icelandic and international designs, including Geysir, Fjallråven, Alas, Ganni, Royal RepubliQ, Wood Wood, and Barbour. There are blankets, pants, sweaters, backpacks, and more—none of which are cheap, but for the most part they’re good-looking and long-lasting.

Berlin, the capital of European start-ups, sometimes seems fueled entirely on caffeine. Club Mate, a caffeinated soda beverage, is the popular drink of choice for many Berliners, but when something hot is needed, it’s all about the coffee. Berliners tend to have their favorites for coffee and will defend their local café against others.

Mole could be seen as a symbol of Oaxaca. Just as Oaxaca is very diverse, with a variety of terrains and ethnic groups, so is mole. Spicy or sweet, it is made from a wide selection of ingredients, both native and European. Mole negro (black mole) is the best known, but there are many different kinds.

Kampa, in Prague’s charming Malá Strana district, is Prague’s largest island. Tucked between the Vltava River and the romantic Čertovka channel, the island’s park comes alive in the warmer months with picnickers, dog walkers, and friends gathered on the greenery desperate to catch up on their vitamin D. With direct views of the Vltava’s roaring rapids and the city’s famous Charles Bridge, Kampa is also home to the Kampa Museum, a former mill turned modern art museum dedicated to 20th-century Central European art. Artist David Černý’s gigantic crawling babies are outside the building, while the inner courtyard and galleries showcase other freestanding works, sculpture, paintings, and photographs.

Passionate Mexico City foodies are rediscovering and reviving Mexico’s rural culinary delights.

I love exploring the markets in São Paulo. There are many, some big and some small, but my latest discovery is the big one on Sundays in Praça da República in the center of the city, very close to the famous Italian and Copan buildings. This lively market takes place around one of the city’s historic buildings. Artisans sell their work, and there’s a nice selection of handicrafts, jewelry, and other typically Brazilian goods for sale. There is a large food area with tables, live music, and vendors selling traditional Brazilian street food, including the specialties of Bahia. If you take the subway, get off at the Republica station. The market takes place during the first half of the day on Sundays.

Beyond the beach, the billboards, and the freeways, there’s a city of neighborhoods waiting to be explored.