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The beef goes back centuries, and will never be entirely resolved: what are the true origins of pisco, a grape-based, aguardiente distillate that became a national symbol of Chile…and Peru. To end the conflict, the people behind this bar and restaurant invented a new, independent republic dedicated to Pisco that is known as Chipe Libre. Inside a vast Lastarria mansion, this imaginary state unites lands in southern Peru and northern Chile, in obeisance to a sole monarch, pisco. The bar features a good 100 labels and cocktails like “Pisco’s in the Air,” made with lime juice, raspberry, papaya and basil; plus a full range of what are among Santiago’s best traditional sours. Standout food include the crunchy-seafood saltado (marinated and grilled beef strips), with mango, served on a sizzling grill; the joint’s star sandwich, El Presidente, is a solid slice of roast beef, fried egg, and shoestring potatoes. To avoid any sovereignty disputes, Chipe Libre flies its red-and-black, center-starred flag as the republic’s national colors.

Want to try hearty, rustic specialties that are considered true Chilean cooking? Look no further. This sprawling place on the outskirts of the city, in the foothills of the Andes, is a winner. Agustina Gómez de Olivares (aka Doña Tina), now 72, started decades ago selling “pan amasado,” homemade dimpled bread along the road. Years later, the whole family is involved. She’s stickler for seasonality so visit her during the summer months when corn is in season to try the heavenly national dish “pastel de choclo” or “humitas,” fresh corn tamales with basil. However, faithful capitalinos make the schlep east for her baked beef empanadas with juicy stuffing. Camino Los Refugios del Arrayán 15125, Lo Barenechea Phone: 56 (2) 2321 6546

Just a block away from the Palacio de la Moneda, the Chilean Government Palace, this culinary oasis offers tasty treats and killer coffee in a downtown setting. Known for its breakfasts, burgers, tea time, and heady java, you can rub elbows with local politicians fueling during the work week. Blue Jar is also one of the few coffee spots to sell the coveted “Keep Cups,” to keep your latte warm for the road. Almirante L. Gotuzzo 102 at Moneda Phone: 56 (2) 2696-1890

There’s a powerful love for the 80s in Chile and in no other club does this shine through like at Blondie. The nightclub is tucked away in a retail shopping center in a gritty area of La Alameda. You’ll hear anything 80s from New Wave to techno, goth rock, and theme nights like Pet Shop Boys, Bowie, Madonna, even 90s nights. There are also live concerts from local rock bands like Lucybell. A favorite place to party with the gay community and university students. Alameda 2879 (Metro ULA)

Chilean “completos” are hot dogs piled high with the works--usually mashed avocado, chopped tomato, optional sauerkraut, and an obscene amount of mayo (maybe 1/3 cup). Actually, eating them is a feat of gravity without the toppings winding up on your shirt, or the ground. Chileans are passionate about their completos and no place draws them in like Dominó, an old-school soda fountain with locales peppering the downtown. Locals crowd around the counter to scarf down these dogs with Coca-Cola or freshly made juice. Various locales throughout downtown (see website)

With a nod to the neighborhood’s tradition of carpentry, this furniture store sells chairs, tables, bowls, and wall hooks made of Chilean lenga wood, crafted with clean, modern lines and smooth finishes. This appeared in the May 2014 issue.

Chilean society is quite conservative by many standards with the younger generations finally starting to cut loose. Get more playful. Be expressive. US expat Jayne Morgan saw the opportunity to fill the niche for erotic toys in the capital, starting as private bachelorette parties. The idea was a runaway success and she’s expanded to now have two stories in Providencia and Barrio Lastarria to satisfy the demand. Sex toys, games, outfits, and erotic books, all imported of high quality and good taste, are all laid in her attractive stories with attentive staff. Monjitas 580, 2nd Floor (in Bar The Clinic Building) Phone: 56 (2) 2632 5988

Chileans love “completos,” hot dogs with the works. Hogs took this concept and made it gourmet. Think hot dogs made with venison, lamb, pure frank, even rabbit. Then top it with items like caramelized onions, blue cheese, avocado, barbeque sauce, etc. The place is casual and standing room only to eat. Los Leones 40 (almost with Av. Providencia), Providencia (new location opening in Barrio Lastarria pronto!) Phone: 2235-4593

About a two-and-a-half hour drive from Santiago (or 30 minutes by helicopter), Puma Lodge is located in the Andean foothills near the Argentine border. The lodge is part of the Chilean-owned Noi hotel group, which also has properties in Patagonia, Atacama, Santiago, and more. Opened in 2011, Puma Lodge has a ski chalet feel, with wooden interiors and a large fireplace in the middle of the bar and lounge area. The 24 rooms are all the same category, and the design is simple and comfortable with touches such as colorful throws and local artwork.

Many guests choose Puma Lodge for the heli-skiing, but there’s plenty on offer year-round and for the less intrepid traveler. Activities include hiking, horseback riding, or heading out for a picnic lunch by the river. There’s also an on-site spa, yoga studio, and wine cave. Outdoor hot tubs are great after skiing, and a swimming pool is a draw in the summer months.

Give your senses a jolt at Sky Costanera Observatory, on the 61st and 62nd floors of the Costanera Center. A 50-second elevator ride takes you almost 1,000 feet into the sky for a thrilling 360-degree view of the city, population over five million, with the snowcapped Andes as a backdrop. Guides are on hand to point out cityscape highlights. Not for scaredy-cats. Note: In case of rain, return first thing the following day, the best time to visit for the clearest view.

The newly opened Parque Fluvial Renato Poblete was once a garbage dump and squatters’ before the nearly 50 acres were taken by the government and transformed into this handsome park. Dividid into two areas, “El Cauce” (The Channel) is 17-acre flood plain with three water mirrors. The second, known as “Brazo del río” (River’s Arm), covers 32 acres and boasts a lagoon formed by the Río Mapocho, now a place for water sports. Like in most Chilean parks there are soccer fields and a cycling path that belongs to part of a circuit covering over 20-miles and multiple neighborhoods. On the weekends, Santiago families congregate here under the sun for a pinic. Tuesday to Sunday, 9:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. Avenida Presidente Balmaceda 2800, near Costanera Sur, Quinta Normal

The mercury during summer afternoons can hit 34C (or around 95F). How to stay cool during the hottest time of the day (4-6pm)? Besides seeking shade or air-conditioning, Santiaguinos seek solace in a traditional drink called “mote con huesillos.” Huesillos, sun-dried peaches, are cooked with water and a touch of sugar. The liquid and fruit are chilled and served with a scoop of toothy golden barley. Mote con huesillo is sold by vendors throughout downtown. More than a drink, it’s a satisfying, healthy snack.

In 1998, former Chilean dictator Augusto Pinochet was arrested in England at The London Clinic. A month later, satirical, left-leaning newspaper The Clinic was born. The newspaper’s namesake bar in the Lastarria area, housed in a gorgeous Baroque building, is constantly sporting zingers directed at many Chilean public figures. The Clinic is THE spot in Lastarria to toss back some cocktails or beers among hipsters. Every night it’s slammed. While they put on a weekend brunch and executive menu at lunch, it’s not about the food. It’s the cool scene. Monjitas 578, almost corner Miraflores Phone: 56(2) 2266 4440

Northern Spain isn’t nearly as popular as the south among foreign visitors (if you discount the El Camino de Santiago), but for my money the north provides a more pleasurable experience. The mountainous terrain is spectacular, the food in every town we visited is splendid, the beer scene is surprisingly bubbly, and the quaint fishing villages, like quiet Comillas, provide respite from the hustle and bustle of big centers like Barca and Madrid. Comillas, scene here from the hills surrounding gorgeous Pontificial University, features an excellent beach, dozens of neat cafes in an ancient town center, and El Capricho, a building designed by famed Antoni Gaudí.

My guide, Paco, a.k.a. Francisco de Santiago, 46, is a full time tour guide, and also a former child chess champion and bullfighter (“that was many kilos ago”), orders a flight of artisanal mezcal samples at our first mezcalería of the evening, and instructs me on the proper way to taste the purest of agave drinks. “You spread the mescal on top of your hand, like this, then wait for the alcohol to evaporate, then smell it for citric, floral, or smoky tones.” After smelling, a sip, then another for good measure, you take a bite of orange slice dipped in crushed maguey worms and sea salt. After that, we dive into the city’s tacos and street food, beginning our night with two cups of esquite—boiled corn kernels mixed with lime, chili pepper, and mayonnaise, which we bought from a father-son team who have been working the same street corner for 22 years. I booked my 4-hour “late-night taco and mezcal tour” with Eat Mexico Culinary Tours. Francisco de Santiago of Mexico also runs Every Angle Tours ([email protected], tel. 55-2086-0851, $85–145 per person, depending on tour, includes food, beverage, transport, guide); all kinds of specialty culinary tours, or an all-day Frida Kahlo tour of the city.)